Time Trial Discussion

  • Thread starter seadog777
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Couple of general questions for this group, given that we have so many mad fast people in here:

I know this should be fairly basic but do you all use turn-in markers? I never have tbh, feels critical at MP for example but I'm basically just guessing/judging the corners round every lap. On a related note, can anyone recommend any YouTubers who do lap guides in VR? I love the @Tidgney guides but the FoV of VR is so different to flat that the turn-in markers simply don't work for me. Alternatively, how do you go about finding your own turn-in markers, any tips on that?

Second question, to wheel users: are you tensed up when racing or relaxed? I feel like a relaxed body would be better but I'm naturally all tensed up. Just curious on this one. :)
I'm not super fast, but I use the turn/apex markers to help in VR. I'm often doing my stints after night shifts, so my eyes feel like this after ...

Mr GIF


I also use the wheel and even if I'm as relaxed as I can be, I feel I still get quite tense in my upper back and shoulders. It's particularly bad after a stressful shift.
 
The problem with Tidgney is that he often says things like, "when the tree hits the edge of your screen", and that just doesn't translate to VR. I think I just need to get better at finding my own reference points but everything happens so fast! I'll try your suggestions though, using the a-pillar is a good point
I use lap guides as hints to view were I should brake, but I always adjust with time to my abilities, and the car I am using when you can choose. Lap after lap, I see where I brake too early/too late and I try to find a visual mark that is at the right spot.
I am not fast, but I find my braking points within 50-60 laps, after that it is more a question of stringing everything together consistently.
 
Turn 1 and turn 2 I think you can be braver and start adding throttle earlier. Pretty sure that will gain you a tenth in total. That would bring your time into the .5s at the end of 3rd sector (which would be the same as me). Same thing with the last corner....you just have to add throttle early to get a good time.


Hmmm...yeah...you are too conservative in the corners. I know the walls are scary, but it is something you have to ignore and get used to if you want to get the time down. Use some invalid laps and see how brave you can get in the corners. Also, there are a few corners where you could've use a lower gear to get the car to turn. Watch @Gomario JSP and my replay and note the gear choice we used.
Thanks mate, i'll try to be braver...... :):) :lol: :lol:
 
Yeh I wasn't too clear, didn't mean the useless yellow markers that the game gives you, I mean more trackside references that you may use to judge when to turn. I'm struggling to find good references at MP but misjudging a lot of corners going up the hill as a result.

I'm glad I'm not the only one who ends a session with sore arms and a very sweaty bum crack. TMI? :)
I run machines for a living and the difference in sweat and sore shoulders and twitch muscles in my legs from literally living my life behind controls/wheels/buttons/whatever is REAL. I've told my wife that while it's not cardio, it counts for a workout. I totally get sore and super sweaty. The Trial Mountain TT hurt so much I had to take 2 days off from using my wheel. 🤷‍♂️😂😂
 
Woah! Almost the same time as me! 😯 Also, I just noticed that the Genesis has less weight and more power than the Ferrari, once BOP is applied. What kind of "balance of performance" is that?? 💩
As I misunderstand it, BOP is not just about maximum power to weight. It is supposed to factor in area under the horsepower curve, torque, weight distribution, rotational stability and other things. One can certainly doubt the effectiveness of PD's methodology. It is obviously not a perfect science, as there are constant refinements, some having to do with physics changes and some "just because".

Just my contribution to the confusion...
 
Hey, I fixed the sound, what I did was I had my TV to muted so I had to turn it up from 0 to 10. I also set all the balance and race effects to maximum sound(the highest setting). Which was 10. I probably should get a 40-50 inch TV to see a more wider clear picture of what I'm racing on.
 
Couple of general questions for this group, given that we have so many mad fast people in here:

I know this should be fairly basic but do you all use turn-in markers? I never have tbh, feels critical at MP for example but I'm basically just guessing/judging the corners round every lap. On a related note, can anyone recommend any YouTubers who do lap guides in VR? I love the @Tidgney guides but the FoV of VR is so different to flat that the turn-in markers simply don't work for me. Alternatively, how do you go about finding your own turn-in markers, any tips on that?

Second question, to wheel users: are you tensed up when racing or relaxed? I feel like a relaxed body would be better but I'm naturally all tensed up. Just curious on this one. :)
Having seen later you don't mean the cones provided by the game, then yes, for every corner at every track I try to find a useful braking point, turning point, apex and exit point. I'd say the braking point I'd always have, but often the other three are less defined. You are right though that at Mount Panorama they are critical for many corners. I'm not fast there, but something like corner 5 or 6, the fast right hander after the cutting (not the first right kink), I have to use a turning marker to go through there accurately (just as the three on the right meets the edge of my screen). Similar for the few corners that follow. Markers could be a marshall leaving the edge of the screen, the start of a kerb, a change in wall colour, etc.

Re your second question, I tend to tense up and constantly have to remind myself to relax; I'm often properly sweating after an hour of driving. This tensing up includes grip on the wheel, hunching my shoulders, etc. I often find myself turning the wheel a standard 90 degrees and squeezing it as if there is massive force trying to push it back, when there is almost none - at the Monza event recently Curva Grande was an example. When I felt myself tensing in the hands, I'd deliberately straighten my fingers and hold the wheel really lightly between my thumbs and index fingers. Guess what, still make the corner, but with far less energy wasted.

On that note, there is a theory, probably more applicable to the aliens seeking the last 0.01% than us, but maybe useful anyway, that you should seek out those things that waste energy and eliminate them. The idea is that clenching your hands, legs, shoulders, etc. all uses oxygen, and that oxygen would be far better left for your brain to use on focussing on braking points, turning points, overtake decisions, etc. So the more you can train yourself to relax, the better.
 
On that note, there is a theory, probably more applicable to the aliens seeking the last 0.01% than us, but maybe useful anyway, that you should seek out those things that waste energy and eliminate them. The idea is that clenching your hands, legs, shoulders, etc. all uses oxygen, and that oxygen would be far better left for your brain to use on focussing on braking points, turning points, overtake decisions, etc. So the more you can train yourself to relax, the better.
Right, I think I've read similar and it makes some sense. I wondered whether it was just me who was needlessly clinging on to the wheel for dear life, quite comforting to know that we're all at it lol.
 
Guys, might be stupid question but I am on DualSense, so those NM numbers that I can see on different models of let's say Fanatec DD, are they resistance numbers? The higher number the stronger resistance in turning steering wheel?
Yes in theory. High torque values give you more fidelity even when the ffb strength is lower. Higher the torque, the better the feeling, even at lower settings.

But yes. It's the available torque rating.
 
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I need your opinions and your help my friends before wanting to invest in a Fanatec GT DD Pro (700€ for 5Nm, 800€ for 8Nm) or a Fanatec GT DD Pro Extrême (1,300€)
I think this is not the place to ask this kind of question but here I know I can find help. I have a stand like this below that I've been playing with a G29 since GT6.
$_32.png

Do you think that a GT DD Pro of 5Nm or 8Nm would be suitable without the base moving? But I am very interested in the GT DD Pro Extreme. Only with constant 15Nm, will this no longer be suitable? Should I just limit myself to the GT DD Pro? Or if I take the GT DD Pro Extrême I have to change chassis, knowing that I don't have room for a large cockpit and that the best for me would be a folding cockpit? Thank you in advance for your advice and help my friends.
 
I need your opinions and your help my friends before wanting to invest in a Fanatec GT DD Pro (700€ for 5Nm, 800€ for 8Nm) or a Fanatec GT DD Pro Extrême (1,300€)
I think this is not the place to ask this kind of question but here I know I can find help. I have a stand like this below that I've been playing with a G29 since GT6.
View attachment 1327883
Do you think that a GT DD Pro of 5Nm or 8Nm would be suitable without the base moving? But I am very interested in the GT DD Pro Extreme. Only with constant 15Nm, will this no longer be suitable? Should I just limit myself to the GT DD Pro? Or if I take the GT DD Pro Extrême I have to change chassis, knowing that I don't have room for a large cockpit and that the best for me would be a folding cockpit? Thank you in advance for your advice and help my friends.
I think it will flick a lot, given the higher force involved, but it's just a guess.
Also I think you will struggle with the pedals. Once you move to loading cells, if you want to benefit of them, you have to apply more force, which probably leads to the chair or the base moving.
This one I'm more sure of. I have a place similar to yours (but with 2 vertical arms) and a G29. I used a bit the Fanatec of a friend of mine, and can ensure that my seat cannot stand the push needed on the brake
 
⭕ BREAKING NEWS ⭕

We've spotted a very Australian spectator at the very beginning of the 4th sector of Mount Paranormal CE...

View attachment 1327867

Meh, that's nothing... I've seen a real live @Roo at Circuit de la Sarthe. Not only that, but I shared a car home with him - driven by some guy from GTPlanet whose name escapes me now.

(Great find(s), btw - that's the kind of Easter Egg I love in a game :D )

-

Slightly unrelated too, but I just came into the thread to ask if anyone else plans to watch the Bathurst 12h this weekend? I believe it is going to be free to watch on Youtube (possibly only in certain territories) on the SRO's GT channel.

I plan to watch it on Saturday evening here in the UK, with a bit of Pink Floyd on in the background. No prizes for guessing which album :banghead:
 
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Here is my previous 2:00.034 lap, looking at it now, so many miliseconds lost :D But the chase for sub-2 min lap will continue tonight.

Are you an MT expert? I keep botching T1 at Autopolis, I switch from gear 6 to 3 slowly and try to clip the corner and I always end up on the grass and then I have to start over. Same thing applies for turns 2 and 3. I normally stay at 3rd gear but sometimes I'll put it down to 2 and then back up to 3.
 
I need your opinions and your help my friends before wanting to invest in a Fanatec GT DD Pro (700€ for 5Nm, 800€ for 8Nm) or a Fanatec GT DD Pro Extrême (1,300€)
I think this is not the place to ask this kind of question but here I know I can find help. I have a stand like this below that I've been playing with a G29 since GT6.
View attachment 1327883
Do you think that a GT DD Pro of 5Nm or 8Nm would be suitable without the base moving? But I am very interested in the GT DD Pro Extreme. Only with constant 15Nm, will this no longer be suitable? Should I just limit myself to the GT DD Pro? Or if I take the GT DD Pro Extrême I have to change chassis, knowing that I don't have room for a large cockpit and that the best for me would be a folding cockpit? Thank you in advance for your advice and help my friends.
The wheel will probably be fine....but something is going move around when you hit the brakes....either your chair or the stand. I have a foldable rig and I put enough force to the brake pedal to lift up the middle part of the rig (how I know I have 100% braking 🤪 ).

my setup
1000057237.jpg
 
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I need your opinions and your help my friends before wanting to invest in a Fanatec GT DD Pro (700€ for 5Nm, 800€ for 8Nm) or a Fanatec GT DD Pro Extrême (1,300€)
I think this is not the place to ask this kind of question but here I know I can find help. I have a stand like this below that I've been playing with a G29 since GT6.
View attachment 1327883
Do you think that a GT DD Pro of 5Nm or 8Nm would be suitable without the base moving? But I am very interested in the GT DD Pro Extreme. Only with constant 15Nm, will this no longer be suitable? Should I just limit myself to the GT DD Pro? Or if I take the GT DD Pro Extrême I have to change chassis, knowing that I don't have room for a large cockpit and that the best for me would be a folding cockpit? Thank you in advance for your advice and help my friends.
Still on a G29 too and I have the GT Omega Classic

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Hi you lovely people. Still no gold at Bathurst. 2 valid laps in a 20 lap run. Am I too much of a lunatic maybe? At least the optimum is nicely in gold territory. The McLaren drives like a charm but I might have to try the Genesis anyhow.

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That lap overview with the session optimum screen is bugged right? It looks like it was designed to allow scrolling through your laps but it doesn't move ever right?

At least Autopolis is done. Used the GT4 McLaren. Also drives very nice. Shifting at half rev limiter does the trick.

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Again, no improvement after first day - until now!

I shaved up 0,680 of second and that was lap with huge mistake before big straight.
Luckily, perfect last 3 corners did the magic and now my pb is 2:02.304

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Where I am now on leaderboard

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And leader of my FL, no it isn't Genesis

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Video of my lap, advices are welcome

 
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