Tokyo Expressway WTC 600 (Tokyo Rain Event) Guide for Beginners

[onedjyoulike]

Rule of thumb when pitting fur fuel with no other factor considered:
Just go in for fuel as late as the gauge allows -> less weight = more speed, better tyre life, and better handling.
Might be depending on wind direction and strength, or on how well you can maintain your speed (gears when playing with automatic transmission).
I think I was going in pits end of lap 8, though the difference is NOT that big if you need to do it one lap earlier, as there is no AI to slipstream on or desperatly run away from.

About the tyres:
the game does only allow to change to 1 compound and not mixing during pitstops, you propably already knew that.
But as any single comppund has higher PP than the mix you start on, you cant actually change at all - which is also not necessary.
The tyres will be no problem with this car.

Thanks for the reply. I did figure out the answer to those questions by doing multiple sessions with the car. And that is a great point about the fuel and less weight.

On to my opinion. It's very lengthy. Lol

Spoiler: Opinion about Ford Focus '18 Meythia tuning

I was very excited while tuning this because this is quite different from the typical Praiano tune I'm used to. I don't exclusively use his tunes, but I would say it is at least 80/20 of using his exact tuning vs. using others or ones I've adjusted on my own. He has done so many of them and more times than not I find the handling and steering in his tuning is top-notch and fixes a lot of stock issues. But some of them are clearly sacrificing speed as we are discovering with this one in particular. I've learned about some areas to adjust to fix steering issues when I'm not using his tunes.

You fixed the speed issue with your tuning and made it on par with the Porsche. The most notable differences that jumped out at me are the amount of sports tuning parts you used and the LSD. He uses that part often and I don't believe I've ever seen all 5's. But the fuel saving is better than Porsche and almost identical to the Lamborghini. However, the understeer was noticeable as you mentioned.

I restarted the race about 5 times within the first 2 laps because of mistakes I felt like I could have avoided. I did get the hang of it and was able to duplicate a similar result with the Porsche of taking 1st after Lap 2's wall ride on the first corner and maintaining that P1 for the remainder of the race. But I felt like I had to stay on my toes as it still was a little understeery even later in the race. I would occasionally tap a wall or take the final hairpin a little too wide. Not that it mattered as my speed had me out in front plenty far enough. But I was so on my toes and had the understeer in my head that I kept forgetting to pit. At the end of lap 8, I drove right past the pit, and after a verbal "doh!" I think I had 1.1 laps of fuel. So then I was trying to coast a little to make sure I didn't run out of gas. I was so focused on that I forgot to pit again at the end of lap 9. 🤦🏻‍♂️

Before attempting it again I thought maybe I would try to adjust the tuning to fix the understeer. I felt like your tuning was a much better starting point to make this car beginner-friendly and competitive than to start from Praiano's tune. I think I was successful and am happy with the result. It does compromise a little of the speed but not much and I felt like it reduces the understeer enough to make it more beginner-friendly, but still more competitive than Praiano's tune. My first lap was not great and I even was overtaken on the hairpin to drop back to 3rd. But I got back into 2nd during the straight and I got into P1 on the 2nd wall ride on lap 2 that you pointed out and maintained that position for the remainder of the race. I pit after lap 6 so my final time may have been better if I held off until after lap 8 with what you were saying about fuel weight. I think I could shave off time with more experience with this car for sure.

Either way I'm happy to add another option and more variety to the mix. I have been partial to Ferrari's and Porsche's since I was very young. I've never been in a Ferrari IRL but my stepdad owned 2 different Porsche's that I was frequently a passenger in for a good 10 years of my childhood. He more recently owned a Mustang but I still preferred it when he had the Porsche. I've always considered Ferrari, Porsche, and Lambo as dream cars but not something I'd ever imagined owning. Driving them in VR with a haptic vest is so satisfying. This game has changed my mind and now Bugatti would be my top dream car if price was no object.

Also, this game has opened my eyes to a whole wealth of cars that I now appreciate and the Ford Focus is on that list thanks to the Rally car and now this. Because of your recommendation and this process it helped me learn a little more about adjusting a tune so thank you so much for your input and time spent both reading and contributing to this guide.

Here are the adjustments I made:

Spoiler: Modified Meythia Ford Focus '18 tuning

The PP was doing weird things that felt like a glitch with the Ballast at 20 where lowering the ECU or Power Restrictor was increasing the PP. But once I set it to 24 I was able to get the results I was looking for. I'm curious if my adjustments cause you to end slower than the 26m17s you got before or if the improvements to understeer make up for the speed loss. I adjusted toe angle, differential acceleration sensitivity, downforce, the ECU output, ballast, and power restrictor. But everything else in your tuning I kept the same.

 

[Meythia]

The PP was doing weird things that felt like a glitch with the Ballast at 20 where lowering the ECU or Power Restrictor was increasing the PP.

There is many places were PP just doesnt seem to work at all.
Yesterday I was adding! sports brake system over normal and the acceleration values increase, additionally inflating PP upwards more than the simple brake system upgrade should do.

Copied your tune, decided to give it my own touch again and max out the ECU for that bit of extra torque.
Drove until the first left hand turn and decided the gear ratios need a bit of shortening.
Then did the whole run:

Now drove your setup, so I didnt have practice bias on my own tune :

4seconds slower, but that is basically nothing. Only 0,25% slower considering the total time of 1578 seconds
edit: unexpcted - this AI was fast!


Then one run in my previously posted suggested tune to compare again with the same conditions of 2 wallrides in t1 (I guess I only did 1 wallride before for the time difference):

edit2, different car,

Conclusion:
power wins, if you can keep it on the track.
But your setup is nice to drive and on other tracks I guess it could be better.
Also I found that my power setup has the better exit out of the hairpin by feel, not talking about the actual speed.
Either the LSD or the aero are making this worse, but I didnt spend another attempt to identify the difference.

Yet with both these cars I am not as fast as I am with a full clean Stratos run (no shortshift, no pit).
But as this one isnt availabe in the Brand Central I didnt recommend it.
Also of course there may still be other cars (brand central, used cars or legendary cars) that can deliver faster times with AT, which I havent driven for disliking them or simply not yet trying them, or where my setup is off the pace

 

[KipDog]

Another tip would be: don't get hasty on your first lap. I am testing cars on Tokyo at the moment and after the first corner i am normally not better than 10th and still win relatively easily. Just try to be relatively close to the top 3 (Kokobun, Gallo, Suswillo) after the first couple of laps. Gallo pits twice and especially Suswillo seems to get slower over the race lenght.

This is a great tip. Aim for mid-pack, cleanly, by the end of lap 1, and as long as you’re on a 1 stop gas/tire strat (end of 6 or 7 lap pit), you’ll almost always earn position number one around the start of lap 8 or 9 as leaders pit and find smooth driving to a win last couple of laps. (Assuming you’re running at least 2:15 and under per lap on average, which isn’t hard.)

 

[onedjyoulike]

I wanted to share something for those of you who are progressing from beginner to intermediate and are looking to become more advanced at this course and credit grind. It is a video of Praiano, who created the tunings for the 2 cars suggested in the original post, driving a clean first lap where he ends the lap in P1 without wall riding any corners. It is great to be able to see what lines to take and shifting techniques.

 

[KipDog]

I wanted to share something for those of you who are progressing from beginner to intermediate and are looking to become more advanced at this course and credit grind. It is a video of Praiano, who created the tunings for the 2 cars suggested in the original post, driving a clean first lap where he ends the lap in P1 without wall riding any corners. It is great to be able to see what lines to take and shifting techniques.

Awesome!!

 

[onedjyoulike]

Another tip would be: don't get hasty on your first lap. I am testing cars on Tokyo at the moment and after the first corner i am normally not better than 10th and still win relatively easily. Just try to be relatively close to the top 3 (Kokobun, Gallo, Suswillo) after the first couple of laps. Gallo pits twice and especially Suswillo seems to get slower over the race lenght.

I formatted the post so it's not an overload of words on the eyes when you enter and added this to the strategy tips. Thx!

 

[LinPark]

Gave this a go recently and didn't have much success .. is it doable using pure beginner settings in the Porsche? Thanks!

Ok, went with Ford Focus this evening and switched to Intermediate - first race came in 1st by about an 8 second lead and 2nd race came in 1st with about an 18 second lead and actually got a CRB for the 2nd one. Best non-wall riding clean lap was about 2:12.5. Really appreciate this thread - I could not have done this without it. As many have said here, just keep practicing the lines and you can win this one consistently. Many thanks!

 

[KipDog]

Gave this a go recently and didn't have much success .. is it doable using pure beginner settings in the Porsche? Thanks!

What I love most about this event, as opposed to Sardenga or Le Mans for credit payouts, is the large variety of cars you can win with. Anything that can be tuned to 600pp is very viable. I won with an F40, 959, Countache, ‘92 NSX, and a Boss 429 the last couple of days.

For me it’s so much more enjoyable to drive that variety of legendary vehicles I grew up dreaming about owning, than GR1-GR3 cars repetitively.

Main thing with this race is it just takes a little bit of practice. If you’ve just begun, don’t sweat the CRB, and just focus on consistently winning, then refine to where you get the CRB most of the time. I used to be well under 50% of my races earning the bonus, now it’s the vast majority.

The Boss Mustang 429 tune you can find on Praiano, if you have the car, is about as easy as that race will get. This is because unlike the Cappuccino SWAP, which is similarly fast and powerful (both will launch to front of pack before turn one), it also handles remarkably well as long as you’re easy on the gas coming out of turns. The Cappuccino is like wrestling a greased pig the entire race, or at least till the track is mostly dry.

For an off the shelf, no tune needed, dependable winner I’d rock the Lexus LFA. It’s an amazing car to drive, is 598pp stock from the dealer, and can be tuned up to run 700pp plus races. Plus the engine sound!

Not sure what you mean by beginner, but for assists, try traction control 1, turn on ASM, and set counter steer assistance to strong to help with the wet track. ABS default. Don’t use any auto drive setting. Brake zone is helpful here to be sure.

(Obligatory suggestion to get over to manual as soon as you’re comfortable doing so. It isn’t much faster unless you’re expert with gearing and shifting, but helps greatly, for beginners especially, with managing power in and out of turns, and with fuel management. For example, if you’re coming out of a turn and realize you’re too fast, just shift up early and dump the power in a moment where either braking or even just letting off the throttle will likely spin you.)

You’ll need gas around lap 7, no tires. That should bring you home first barring any major track incidents. Get some wins, learn the race, then work on the CRB.

EDIT: LFA is 590 from dealer, and OP reports not as performant running auto in the event, so while I love the car, maybe don’t drop a couple million credits just to win this race as a beginner!

 

[Eunos_Cosmo]

I did this today with a stock Ferrari F12 detuned to 599pp. While I was so annoyed at this event that I just wall-rode the first corner, I think it would be possible with this car legitimately. I did it pretty sloppy with sport hard tires and a poorly-optimized 1 stop strategy. The Ferrari could maybe do a no-stopper with the fuel mix at 6, or maybe 3 on the main straight and 6 everywhere else. The fact that the NSX pits 3 times is really key.

 

[gigio79]

I don't agree with the two recommended cars, especially the Miura is not suitable, at least for me.Since I decided to use the Aston Martin DP 100 I have always won. Fuel at 1 for the whole race and no pitstops, you can win the event without changing setup.

 

[onedjyoulike]

I don't agree with the two recommended cars, especially the Miura is not suitable, at least for me.Since I decided to use the Aston Martin DP 100 I have always won. Fuel at 1 for the whole race and no pitstops, you can win the event without changing setup.

Have you tried the Miura with the exact tuning I suggested? There is a major difference between the stock Miura and a Praiano-tuned Miura. Praiano has tuned at least 10-20 vehicles specifically for this event, and he stated that the Miura is his best-performing vehicle out of all of them. That was what inspired me to test if the Miura would also perform well if you used auto transmission.

I'm assuming you used the Aston Martin DP-100 while driving with a manual transmission. As I mentioned in the guide, that was the first car I completed it with. But not until I learned to drive with a manual transmission. I failed on multiple attempts when driving with an auto transmission. If you use the Sports Hard tires that are best with most vehicles in this race, you have to change something on the DP-100 to get it below 600pp. It is not as fast as the Miura and the 911 from the guide. I know it has enough fuel to not pit stop which is why many have used it to get gold. But you will have opponents able to catch you and pass you, which makes you more vulnerable to losing the CRB.

There is another major problem that the DP-100 has that is not an issue with the Miura. The DP-100 is a terrible driving experience in VR. No cockpit view. GT7 is by far one of if not the best VR games across any platform. I cannot recommend a vehicle that doesn't take advantage of GT7's best features.

 

[onedjyoulike]

I did this today with a stock Ferrari F12 detuned to 599pp. While I was so annoyed at this event that I just wall-rode the first corner, I think it would be possible with this car legitimately. I did it pretty sloppy with sport hard tires and a poorly-optimized 1 stop strategy. The Ferrari could maybe do a no-stopper with the fuel mix at 6, or maybe 3 on the main straight and 6 everywhere else. The fact that the NSX pits 3 times is really key.

Yea it is possible to do it with many cars legitimately. It is just much more challenging. The guide is to help get over the hump and get that early experience of completing it. But I posted a video in this thread of how to race it clean.

 

[KipDog]

I did this today with a stock Ferrari F12 detuned to 599pp. While I was so annoyed at this event that I just wall-rode the first corner, I think it would be possible with this car legitimately. I did it pretty sloppy with sport hard tires and a poorly-optimized 1 stop strategy. The Ferrari could maybe do a no-stopper with the fuel mix at 6, or maybe 3 on the main straight and 6 everywhere else. The fact that the NSX pits 3 times is really key.

The OP’s post with the wall riding tip is about the only way to ensure a clean turn 1 for the CRB. In terms of doing it cleanly, I’ve found the most reliable method is to get just past the middle pack before the first turn, 5th place or so, and take the inside, rather than outside, line on the turn. Brake hard and slow way down (to 1st gear usually) so you can hold the inner line tight to the inner wall/barrier for turn 1 and 2, then open up as normal. The AI makes an actual effort to avoid you when you’re on the inside, compared to how they play bumper cars when you take the more traditional outside line. They’ll still hit you from time to time, but no where near to the extent they do otherwise. With that strat, I can clear the first two turns cleanly 70% of the time, and it’s a quick restart if not that early the race.

If you’re racing a car isn’t fast enough off the start to get near the leading pack before turn 1, I find it’s better to simply hang back to last, avoid the scrum entirely, then pass them over the course of the race after the first two turns. Usually you’ll take the lead around lap 9, on a one stop strat, if you’re able to turn 2:10-2:15 laps consistently after lap 1.

 

[KipDog]

I did this today with a stock Ferrari F12 detuned to 599pp. While I was so annoyed at this event that I just wall-rode the first corner, I think it would be possible with this car legitimately. I did it pretty sloppy with sport hard tires and a poorly-optimized 1 stop strategy. The Ferrari could maybe do a no-stopper with the fuel mix at 6, or maybe 3 on the main straight and 6 everywhere else. The fact that the NSX pits 3 times is really key.

HATE that NSX. Early on, as I was learning the race, it baited me into some costly choices (lost CRB) near end of race, lap 8 or 9, as I thought I had to over take him to get 1st. I’d finally manage the pass, after costly collisions, coming out the last turn heading down the straight, just to watch it pit in my rearview mirror. AI was laughing, I’m certain, at me for having lost the clean race bonus for absolutely no reason!

 

[onedjyoulike]

Personally tested and added 5 more vehicles to the original post that offer further alternatives to the 2 cars suggested. All 5 can win with the same guidelines I have based this guide on. But they may just take a few laps longer to get to the head of the pack where its less likely you will lose the CRB.

 

[onedjyoulike]

The Boss Mustang 429 tune you can find on Praiano, if you have the car, is about as easy as that race will get. This is because unlike the Cappuccino SWAP, which is similarly fast and powerful (both will launch to front of pack before turn one), it also handles remarkably well as long as you’re easy on the gas coming out of turns. The Cappuccino is like wrestling a greased pig the entire race, or at least till the track is mostly dry.

I agree about the Boss Mustang 429 and the Cappuccino Swap being the fastest for the race. But the Cappuccino is an absolute deal-breaker for this guide for the reason you mentioned. I have an observation that the Boss Mustang 429 recommendation of "easy on the gas coming out of turns" would fall under "advanced throttle control." This race in general requires you to have better throttle control than the other credit grinds regardless of which vehicle you choose. I believe that if you are going to learn the advanced throttle control required by the Boss Mustang, it would be better to first learn to drive with a manual transmission. I think once you progress to that level where shifting and throttle control are so matter of fact that it becomes second nature, then driving the Boss Mustang seems fairly easy. But the beginner-to-intermediate drivers are still too accustomed to going full throttle most of the time. They likely will be bouncing off the walls or other cars with that level of muscle power in their hands.

I personally can manage the drive. But I am still not at the point where it's second nature and I find I have to really focus to break those old habits.

 

[onedjyoulike]

For an off the shelf, no tune needed, dependable winner I’d rock the Lexus LFA. It’s an amazing car to drive, is 598pp stock from the dealer, and can be tuned up to run 700pp plus races. Plus the engine sound!

I personally love the LFA so after reading that suggestion I went and purchased a 2nd one since mine had a good amount of engine upgrades installed. It's actually 590.98pp stock from the dealer. But that allowed me to get Racing brakes and brake pads. Plus Racing Muffler, Air Filter, Clutch and Flywheel, and Exhaust. Came in right at 599.97.

Now remember this guide will always be based on driving with Auto Transmission. The LFA sounds so sweet because of its high-revving engine. Even though the official description of the vehicle says that the LFA is still environmentally friendly, the AI will wait to shift until it revs in the higher RPMs. So you will not be able to get the same amount of laps as the other cars in this guide if you leave it on Fuel Map 1. So I only left it on Fuel Map 1 through that first corner to get into P2. Then tried switching to both Fuel Map 2 and Fuel Map 3. Regardless of which Fuel Map I use, the stock LFA starts to lose positions in the middle turn sections of the race. I noticed a gap in the performance of both handling and speed when you compare it to Praiano's tuning of the Porsche 911 GT3 (996) '01. Even with buying the tuning upgrades for the Porsche, the total cost is cheaper than the stock LFA. I did 3 laps with the LFA and then checked the Porsche for a lap to compare. You immediately see that the gap in performance between the 2 vehicles is quite substantial. I had high hopes because the LFA engine is so wonderful in VR with the Woojer Vest 3.

 

[KipDog]

I personally love the LFA so after reading that suggestion I went and purchased a 2nd one since mine had a good amount of engine upgrades installed. It's actually 590.98pp stock from the dealer. But that allowed me to get Racing brakes and brake pads. Plus Racing Muffler, Air Filter, Clutch and Flywheel, and Exhaust. Came in right at 599.97.

Now remember this guide will always be based on driving with Auto Transmission. The LFA sounds so sweet because of its high-revving engine. Even though the official description of the vehicle says that the LFA is still environmentally friendly, the AI will wait to shift until it revs in the higher RPMs. So you will not be able to get the same amount of laps as the other cars in this guide if you leave it on Fuel Map 1. So I only left it on Fuel Map 1 through that first corner to get into P2. Then tried switching to both Fuel Map 2 and Fuel Map 3. Regardless of which Fuel Map I use, the stock LFA starts to lose positions in the middle turn sections of the race. I noticed a gap in the performance of both handling and speed when you compare it to Praiano's tuning of the Porsche 911 GT3 (996) '01. Even with buying the tuning upgrades for the Porsche, the total cost is cheaper than the stock LFA. I did 3 laps with the LFA and then checked the Porsche for a lap to compare. You immediately see that the gap in performance between the 2 vehicles is quite substantial. I had high hopes because the LFA engine is so wonderful in VR with the Woojer Vest 3.

You’re 100% correct. I keep a “default” tune for each car, but must have had something accidentally upgraded when I looked. I will edit my post!

I also neglected to keep in mind your intention with this thread in terms of focus on beginners using auto. It’s been so long since I’ve used auto, I forget just how much manual vs auto can impact specific cars and engines.

Thanks for testing the LFA from that perspective and reporting your experience!

 

[onedjyoulike]

You’re 100% correct. I keep a “default” tune for each car, but must have had something accidentally upgraded when I looked. I will edit my post!

I also neglected to keep in mind your intention with this thread in terms of focus on beginners using auto. It’s been so long since I’ve used auto, I forget just how much manual vs auto can impact specific cars and engines.

Thanks for testing the LFA from that perspective and reporting your experience!

For sure! Hopefully, your mentioning of the LFA inspires someone reading to finally force themself into learning to drive a manual. As mentioned previously, it was not being able to win Tokyo with the Aston Martin DP-100 that others were recommending that made me finally try it out. I pulled off the win with that vehicle once I went to the manual, but then held off another week before I went back to trying the manual transmission with other vehicles. Now the only time I am not driving a manual is to test a vehicle for this guide or if I'm in an EV that doesn't have a manual.

 

[KipDog]

Hey @onedjyoulike, please test this one. I think this may be the beginner King. I ran it Auto, and it's the only 26 minute car (total time under 27 min) I've run in auto at Tokyo. It's epic for Tokyo due to the fact that Praiano's tune lets you run laps around 2:11-2:15 in auto without a single stop! Test this SWAP 911 and see if you agree.

 

[onedjyoulike]

Hey @onedjyoulike, please test this one. I think this may be the beginner King. I ran it Auto, and it's the only 26 minute car (total time under 27 min) I've run in auto at Tokyo. It's epic for Tokyo due to the fact that Praiano's tune lets you run laps around 2:11-2:15 in auto without a single stop! Test this SWAP 911 and see if you agree.

Well, it's a good thing that putting this together is not an official job for me. Because I tested that car and didn't deem it worthy. But now that you mention it, I figured I should double-check the sheet. Sometimes I'm over here tuning cars half asleep. Because I have a few crucial things wrong with how I copied that. These are Front Downforce, Output Adjustment percentage, Power restrictor, Braking Sensitivity, and I had Type A on the rear which is the diffuser. I didn't notice it later when I went to use it because it added up to 599pp. But those 5 mistakes drastically would change the performance of the car. Hahaha

Corrected it and I will check it out here shortly. Thx

 

[onedjyoulike]

Hey @onedjyoulike, please test this one. I think this may be the beginner King. I ran it Auto, and it's the only 26 minute car (total time under 27 min) I've run in auto at Tokyo. It's epic for Tokyo due to the fact that Praiano's tune lets you run laps around 2:11-2:15 in auto without a single stop! Test this SWAP 911 and see if you agree.

Ok tested it out and I agree with you that this would be the new top dog for Auto transmission. It is a faster version of the DP-100 plus it has an interior for cockpit view which the DP-100 doesn't have. Going to add it to the main post and add details on the minimum Menu Book and Collector levels for each one. The only downfall is that it will require Beginners to get to Collector Level 50 to buy the engine swap unless they get lucky on a roulette pull for the engine. But I will add that detail too on what engine to look out for. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[KipDog]

Ok tested it out and I agree with you that this would be the new top dog for Auto transmission. It is a faster version of the DP-100 plus it has an interior for cockpit view which the DP-100 doesn't have. Going to add it to the main post and add details on the minimum Menu Book and Collector levels for each one. The only downfall is that it will require Beginners to get to Collector Level 50 to buy the engine swap unless they get lucky on a roulette pull for the engine. But I will add that detail too on what engine to look out for. Thanks for the heads up.

Yeah, the collector level did occur to me after the post. Oddly though, before I got to 50, I had THREE of those engines from lottery tickets, so it’s possible some may get there sooner.

 

[KipDog]

Well, it's a good thing that putting this together is not an official job for me. Because I tested that car and didn't deem it worthy. But now that you mention it, I figured I should double-check the sheet. Sometimes I'm over here tuning cars half asleep. Because I have a few crucial things wrong with how I copied that. These are Front Downforce, Output Adjustment percentage, Power restrictor, Braking Sensitivity, and I had Type A on the rear which is the diffuser. I didn't notice it later when I went to use it because it added up to 599pp. But those 5 mistakes drastically would change the performance of the car. Hahaha

Corrected it and I will check it out here shortly. Thx

I’ve been there, just having done something similar with the McLaren MP4-12C and ignoring the shifting advice. Really appreciate your making the effort. Figuring this race out when I was a beginner was hugely frustrating. Would have greatly appreciated this thread at the time.

 

[kartrcr08]

Good thread, lots of great beginner tips. I'll throw in another true beginner car. I think most would agree that the myriad no stop cars are the easiest to win with, from the racing engine swapped porsches and NSX to the old Group C cars on comfort tires. But those cars are not really attainable for the beginner, so..The Corvette ZR1 C6 it's 120k in the new car dealer, a little over 600pp just buy the power restrictor at the track, drop it down to 600pp and you're good to go. No tune whatsoever box stock. Fuel map 1 is good for 6 laps, pit once for fuel only, it comes with sport hards and is surprisingly good on tires. Controller and AT it's an easy 26 minute car in my perpetually intermediate hands. Use the Tokyo winnings to buy racing tires, go to Le Man and easily win the WTC 700 box stock!

 

[onedjyoulike]

@KipDog so I drove both the Lamborghini Miura and the Porsche 911 GT3 (997) '09 back-to-back but in manual transmission to see what the difference in total time was. In the Lamborghini, I finished at 26:34:550. In the Porsche, I finished at 26:34.242. I feel like they both have their Pro's and Con's. Either way, I love the options. I still feel like the Lamborghini has the least amount of risk of losing the CRB since you are ahead of the pack early and the fastest car on track. But the Porsche not having to worry about fuel or having to pit stop with better-than-average speed is good too. It can be passed, but no real risk of taking 2nd. Both cars can lap at least some of the pack.

 

[KipDog]

@KipDog so I drove both the Lamborghini Miura and the Porsche 911 GT3 (997) '09 back-to-back but in manual transmission to see what the difference in total time was. In the Lamborghini, I finished at 26:34:550. In the Porsche, I finished at 26:34.242. I feel like they both have their Pro's and Con's. Either way, I love the options. I still feel like the Lamborghini has the least amount of risk of losing the CRB since you are ahead of the pack early and the fastest car on track. But the Porsche not having to worry about fuel or having to pit stop with better-than-average speed is good too. It can be passed, but no real risk of taking 2nd. Both cars can lap at least some of the pack.

I never picked up that Lambo as it wasn’t a car that ever interested me. However, it’s now an instant purchase for me the next time it’s available in the Legend dealership because of your ranking of it at Tokyo.

 

[shadow0460]

How to win money in the East Tokyo WTC600 in 3 easy steps.
1. Enter with a Mazda Demio.
2. Exit back to the menu.
3. Take something fast to Sardegna and run that race until your arm falls off.

For the Tokyo WTC 600, at this point I'd recommend any sedan or coupe with a rotary engine, the Murceilago, or the Honda RA272. The Honda is small and fast. On 1.41 I had to wall ride turn 1 on two laps in order to beat the Easy crowd. On earlier patches I was able to win with the RX-7 Spirit with a 26B engine and then again with the Murceilago with no glitches or touching the walls (there was a 5 second penalty back then for each hit). On the RX-7 I used different tire compounds on the front and rear with the more durable tires on the rear.
Similar to the Cappuccino and the Murceilago, part of me wonders if a Jimny can win this (it and the Murceilago are four wheel drive). I suppose you could engine swap a Raptor and try, you'd pass everything but a gas station.
Tuning: ya'll gotta get this stuff down at least a little. I can turn a wrench IRL with the most mediocre of shade tree mechanics. I'm not that good at tweaking stuff, I simply fix what's broke, but somehow when I flip those magic sliders, my GT7 cars run right.
Anyway, for this track you may want tighter suspension. On anything where you may be hopping curbs, you'd loosen it. Here, you hop a curb, you dig something out of a wall. On a powerful RWD car like the RX-7, you'll want to soften up the rear suspension. Due to the recent rain, narrow tires will perform better at the outset and maybe get you out of traffic. Pick your offset, wide may be more stable but the track is pretty narrow in the twisties. A narrow car may be better for overtaking.
Ride height can take a hike here. Limited slip settings may depend on how heavy your foot is, I often set them to minimum. For performance parts, first lose as much weight as possible, add in things like brakes, then start adding stuff that boosts power. Weight reduction reduces fuel use, increases speed and acceleration, and helps stability all in one. Adding power alone costs fuel.
Transmission: Don't redline the car. Even at max speed you want to be at the peak of the HP curve. Up to that you want to be at or near the peak of the torque curve.
On saving weight, the first place to look is in the drive line. Also...the racing transmission gives a firmer shift so it's more likely to break the drive wheels loose unless TCS is enabled. Consider using the manual transmission.
Tuning doesn't stop at the performance shop, nor at GT Auto. It includes assist settings and controller settings also. Use TCS and ASM if you need them, never mind they're not macho. On controller settings the lower sensitivity settings work a bit better when there's low traction.
A final word on assists: I find in online races they help me break away from the pack. I've taken solid hits to the rear quarter under wide open throttle and had TCS5 shut it down and maintain control. Sometimes the offending car goes flying. In this race, getting out of traffic means there's no AI to swipe your CRB.
This is a fantastic race to learn how to set up high speed tuning, so take the opportunity and learn.

 

[KipDog]

Good thread, lots of great beginner tips. I'll throw in another true beginner car. I think most would agree that the myriad no stop cars are the easiest to win with, from the racing engine swapped porsches and NSX to the old Group C cars on comfort tires. But those cars are not really attainable for the beginner, so..The Corvette ZR1 C6 it's 120k in the new car dealer, a little over 600pp just buy the power restrictor at the track, drop it down to 600pp and you're good to go. No tune whatsoever box stock. Fuel map 1 is good for 6 laps, pit once for fuel only, it comes with sport hards and is surprisingly good on tires. Controller and AT it's an easy 26 minute car in my perpetually intermediate hands. Use the Tokyo winnings to buy racing tires, go to Le Man and easily win the WTC 700 box stock!

Well played! I ended up making it a wide body, wide rims set offset wide (handles better for my driving style), but otherwise ran it completely untuned. [13 ballast, 88 power restrictor with the wide setup puts it at 600.00 on the dot.].

I turned 26 minutes both manual and auto on a lap 7 partial fuel pit. Hard to argue with it as go to starter for this race as it’s off the shelf at $120,000.

Great recommendation!!

 

[kartrcr08]

Thanks. This thread was the inspiration for the "bang for the buck" idea. I just went looking in the dealer for cars around 600pp stock that were some what reasonably priced. I don't remember ever driving that ZR1 before, certainly not stock. I was very surprised how quick it was. Then I wondered how cheap could you go? I stayed in the Chevy dealer, all the corvettes are viable although the C7 at 51K isn't easy on hard difficulty. How about the camaro SS at 35K and 550pp? I got lucky and was able to win on hard mode by blocking the RX-7 at the line! No CRB with that car though, I needed every dirty trick in the book to win! Fun challenge.