Have you tried the Miura with the exact tuning I suggested? There is a major difference between the stock Miura and a Praiano-tuned Miura. Praiano has tuned at least 10-20 vehicles specifically for this event, and he stated that the Miura is his best-performing vehicle out of all of them. That was what inspired me to test if the Miura would also perform well if you used auto transmission.
Yea it is possible to do it with many cars legitimately. It is just much more challenging. The guide is to help get over the hump and get that early experience of completing it. But I posted a video in this thread of how to race it clean.
The OP’s post with the wall riding tip is about the only way to ensure a clean turn 1 for the CRB. In terms of doing it cleanly, I’ve found the most reliable method is to get just past the middle pack before the first turn, 5th place or so, and take the inside, rather than outside, line on the turn. Brake hard and slow way down (to 1st gear usually) so you can hold the inner line tight to the inner wall/barrier for turn 1 and 2, then open up as normal. The AI makes an actual effort to avoid you when you’re on the inside, compared to how they play bumper cars when you take the more traditional outside line. They’ll still hit you from time to time, but no where near to the extent they do otherwise. With that strat, I can clear the first two turns cleanly 70% of the time, and it’s a quick restart if not that early the race.
HATE that NSX. Early on, as I was learning the race, it baited me into some costly choices (lost CRB) near end of race, lap 8 or 9, as I thought I had to over take him to get 1st. I’d finally manage the pass, after costly collisions, coming out the last turn heading down the straight, just to watch it pit in my rearview mirror. AI was laughing, I’m certain, at me for having lost the clean race bonus for absolutely no reason!
I agree about the Boss Mustang 429 and the Cappuccino Swap being the fastest for the race. But the Cappuccino is an absolute deal-breaker for this guide for the reason you mentioned. I have an observation that the Boss Mustang 429 recommendation of "easy on the gas coming out of turns" would fall under "advanced throttle control." This race in general requires you to have better throttle control than the other credit grinds regardless of which vehicle you choose. I believe that if you are going to learn the advanced throttle control required by the Boss Mustang, it would be better to first learn to drive with a manual transmission. I think once you progress to that level where shifting and throttle control are so matter of fact that it becomes second nature, then driving the Boss Mustang seems fairly easy. But the beginner-to-intermediate drivers are still too accustomed to going full throttle most of the time. They likely will be bouncing off the walls or other cars with that level of muscle power in their hands.
I personally love the LFA so after reading that suggestion I went and purchased a 2nd one since mine had a good amount of engine upgrades installed. It's actually 590.98pp stock from the dealer. But that allowed me to get Racing brakes and brake pads. Plus Racing Muffler, Air Filter, Clutch and Flywheel, and Exhaust. Came in right at 599.97.
For sure! Hopefully, your mentioning of the LFA inspires someone reading to finally force themself into learning to drive a manual. As mentioned previously, it was not being able to win Tokyo with the Aston Martin DP-100 that others were recommending that made me finally try it out. I pulled off the win with that vehicle once I went to the manual, but then held off another week before I went back to trying the manual transmission with other vehicles. Now the only time I am not driving a manual is to test a vehicle for this guide or if I'm in an EV that doesn't have a manual.
Well, it's a good thing that putting this together is not an official job for me. Because I tested that car and didn't deem it worthy. But now that you mention it, I figured I should double-check the sheet. Sometimes I'm over here tuning cars half asleep. Because I have a few crucial things wrong with how I copied that. These are Front Downforce, Output Adjustment percentage, Power restrictor, Braking Sensitivity, and I had Type A on the rear which is the diffuser. I didn't notice it later when I went to use it because it added up to 599pp. But those 5 mistakes drastically would change the performance of the car. Hahaha
I only gave it a shot because Praiano spoke so highly of it. I enjoyed the drive at Tokyo and didn't realize just how good it was until I had the idea for this thread and tested everything with auto transmission.
Great tips here! I have switched to MT on the controller, but for this guide, I revisit AT to test cars that are beginner to intermediate skills friendly. I used to feel the same way about the button config and still plan to get a wheel. But I think X for upshift, and [] for downshift ended up being easiest to learn and get the hang of. It felt clunky at first, but now it is locked in with muscle memory and a breeze for me. If you are not using L2 and R2 for gas and brake, you are missing out on the power of the PS5 controller. I feel the same way about using the motion steering. The PS5 controller motion steering provides precision to the steering that you just cannot get from a joystick. This guy presents a very detailed argument to back this up, even though his shift button mappings are different from what I just recommended. If you are on PS4 that likely changes things.
I will finally be setting up the Miura and running Tokyo this evening. Manual. Looking forward to it!
Faster AI will allow for better drafting oppurtunities.
This is somewhat true. If you get into a real battle with the RX-7 towards the end of the race (its almost always 2nd place) the driver will up its pace so much (I've seen it run 2:08.x) that it needs another pit due to excessive tire wear, and will then come in like 4th or 5th. I've never run 2:08 in that race with any car, but I've seen others run that time or faster consistently. I'd be curious to know if the proximity to certain drivers causes them to increase their pace.
Side note, ran out and bought a wheel today, MT here I come!
