Tokyo Expressway WTC 600 (Tokyo Rain Event) Guide for Beginners

[onedjyoulike]

The BVLGARI VGT is another one that could be slotted in with the top 3 cars I have in the main post. Just add Sports Hard Tires and Full Computer Control reduced to 84% output. No pitstop is needed at FM1. Considering the amount of tuning required it may be the easiest one yet.

But I still believe the Lamborghini Miura may be the best option for the CRB following the tips here and Praiano's tuning. It is currently available at Hagertys so I would grab it while you can. It may take a few laps to get the hang of it, but once you do, it is a great option.

 

[onedjyoulike]

I never picked up that Lambo as it wasn’t a car that ever interested me. However, it’s now an instant purchase for me the next time it’s available in the Legend dealership because of your ranking of it at Tokyo.

I only gave it a shot because Praiano spoke so highly of it. I enjoyed the drive at Tokyo and didn't realize just how good it was until I had the idea for this thread and tested everything with auto transmission.

 

[kartrcr08]

A couple more tips I thought of. Context; I'm a controller on AT only player, MT is way better but I've tried every button configuration on controller and it's just too clunky ( really need to get a wheel ). OP covered the hairpin really well, I would only add to remember it's a really slow corner, you are not winning the race there, but you can certainly lose it. The other part of the track worth mentioning is the fast left right esses, turns 5-6 ? A lot of speed can be carried through that section and really sets up the rest of the lap. I use that section as a benchmark for every car I test. Last tip and it's less beginner, but about race difficulty. If the goal is to get the CRB consistently, follow all the great tips in the OP, then when you can win more often than not on normal difficulty switch to HARD. For only one reason, the CRB. The AI is way more predictable in hard mode, they just do less stupid stuff. Granted the AI is a little faster in hard, but not that much and the CRB is that much easier.

 

[onedjyoulike]

A couple more tips I thought of. Context; I'm a controller on AT only player, MT is way better but I've tried every button configuration on controller and it's just too clunky ( really need to get a wheel ). OP covered the hairpin really well, I would only add to remember it's a really slow corner, you are not winning the race there, but you can certainly lose it. The other part of the track worth mentioning is the fast left right esses, turns 5-6 ? A lot of speed can be carried through that section and really sets up the rest of the lap. I use that section as a benchmark for every car I test. Last tip and it's less beginner, but about race difficulty. If the goal is to get the CRB consistently, follow all the great tips in the OP, then when you can win more often than not on normal difficulty switch to HARD. For only one reason, the CRB. The AI is way more predictable in hard mode, they just do less stupid stuff. Granted the AI is a little faster in hard, but not that much and the CRB is that much easier.

Great tips here! I have switched to MT on the controller, but for this guide, I revisit AT to test cars that are beginner to intermediate skills friendly. I used to feel the same way about the button config and still plan to get a wheel. But I think X for upshift, and [] for downshift ended up being easiest to learn and get the hang of. It felt clunky at first, but now it is locked in with muscle memory and a breeze for me. If you are not using L2 and R2 for gas and brake, you are missing out on the power of the PS5 controller. I feel the same way about using the motion steering. The PS5 controller motion steering provides precision to the steering that you just cannot get from a joystick. This guy presents a very detailed argument to back this up, even though his shift button mappings are different from what I just recommended. If you are on PS4 that likely changes things.

The key to switching up control schemes is the willingness to step out of your comfort zone and be prepared for hours of re-training. You may find it worth it in the long run.

I have never attempted this race on Hard but will give it a shot after your recommendation. You're not the first person I've heard say that sometimes Hard difficulty ends up benefiting you more than you would think.

 

[KipDog]

@KipDog so I drove both the Lamborghini Miura and the Porsche 911 GT3 (997) '09 back-to-back but in manual transmission to see what the difference in total time was. In the Lamborghini, I finished at 26:34:550. In the Porsche, I finished at 26:34.242. I feel like they both have their Pro's and Con's. Either way, I love the options. I still feel like the Lamborghini has the least amount of risk of losing the CRB since you are ahead of the pack early and the fastest car on track. But the Porsche not having to worry about fuel or having to pit stop with better-than-average speed is good too. It can be passed, but no real risk of taking 2nd. Both cars can lap at least some of the pack.

I will finally be setting up the Miura and running Tokyo this evening. Manual. Looking forward to it!

Finding truly enjoyable cars to run that race (not just fastest like the miserable to wrangle Cappuccino), so it’s both a big reward in credits (825,000), and my time spent, is among my favorite things to do in GT7. It’s not remotely a “grind” running it with a 959, F40, NSX, etc.

I genuinely like the actual race, hated as it is by most. It’s got real technical challenge with a wet track that features long, very high speed straights ending in sharp corners as you’re surrounded by a pack of idiot AI drivers knowing the CRB requires that you touch none of them, nor they touch you!

I actually listen to audiobooks ½ the time running Sardenga, Le Mans, and Spa for the credits as, once you’ve run them a few times, they’re nearly autopilot. Tokyo is never that when trying to run it clean, no wall riding.

 

[shadow0460]

I'm not sure if I mentioned it here or not. I was able to win with the stock BVLGARI on CS tires with the CRB on Hard difficulty.
The only car I've won with and needed to wall ride was the Honda RA272. I've won with that, with a modded Murceilago, and with an engine swapped '02 RX-7, and an engine swapped Suzuki Cappuccino on easy. The Cappuccino and the RX-7 are a handful. The others aren't. The Murceilago is the most stable, followed by the BVLGARI, then the Honda.
If I can win this on hard mode with some practice, it's definitely winnable on easy with a bit of practice. Grab a few CE bronzes or win one of the other grind races, then grab the Aluminum, and win this thing twice to make up for the million you spent on the car. Won a couple more times and you can set cars up the way I did.
I find the faster the AI drive, the easier it is to avoid hitting them and losing the CRB.

 

[Meythia]

I have never attempted this race on Hard but will give it a shot after your recommendation.

Faster AI will allow for better drafting oppurtunities.
Faster AI will not as much slow you down when lapping them.
Faster AI will not be as slow in corners.
Faster AI propably needs more pitstops (unverified, joke).

And if nothing else and you are equally fast as them, it is more fun for the challenge (as long as you do race instead of run away).

And of course tinkering around with tunes because someone on the boards said something is also fun.
Like "traction alone wont win this race" - well of course this is true. If you dont have enough power to overstep your traction, then the flaw is very obvious. But I have won this race with my Stratos down to just 230hp in power with all high aero setup and sport soft tyres.
Yes, as I said this is much slower than a proper setup, but just having fun, messing around, then it doesnt feel like grinding at all.

I cant even tell from memory which is my easiest or fastest car, I simply dont care and just do whatever I feel like.
Currently the Miata engine swap is incredibly fast for a car that is available at all times, the Cappucino is faster and easier but needs to be bought from the UCD.

 

[Eunos_Cosmo]

Faster AI will allow for better drafting oppurtunities.
Faster AI will not as much slow you down when lapping them.
Faster AI will not be as slow in corners.
Faster AI propably needs more pitstops (unverified, joke).

And if nothing else and you are equally fast as them, it is more fun for the challenge (as long as you do race instead of run away).

And of course tinkering around with tunes because someone on the boards said something is also fun.
Like "traction alone wont win this race" - well of course this is true. If you dont have enough power to overstep your traction, then the flaw is very obvious. But I have won this race with my Stratos down to just 230hp in power with all high aero setup and sport soft tyres.
Yes, as I said this is much slower than a proper setup, but just having fun, messing around, then it doesnt feel like grinding at all.

I cant even tell from memory which is my easiest or fastest car, I simply dont care and just do whatever I feel like.
Currently the Miata engine swap is incredibly fast for a car that is available at all times, the Cappucino is faster and easier but needs to be bought from the UCD.

This is somewhat true. If you get into a real battle with the RX-7 towards the end of the race (its almost always 2nd place) the driver will up its pace so much (I've seen it run 2:08.x) that it needs another pit due to excessive tire wear, and will then come in like 4th or 5th. I've never run 2:08 in that race with any car, but I've seen others run that time or faster consistently. I'd be curious to know if the proximity to certain drivers causes them to increase their pace.

 

[kartrcr08]

I too have witnessed Coq au vin turn a 2:08 the last 2 laps on his worn out SS, and not pit.. Cheating bastard Side note, ran out and bought a wheel today, MT here I come!

 

[Meythia]

I'd be curious to know if the proximity to certain drivers causes them to increase their pace.

AI works on conditions.
For a racing game these very likely are

Cruise (when on your own and no pit required)
Combat (when trying to overtake. I dont see the AI knowing any defensive moves, but simply using 100 of the engine power)
and propably
Preserve (when pitting is required to make the most of the ressources)

At some points in the game, you can see driving error when it changes from cruise into combat, and it will happen to 100% of the time whenever you try to repeat it (Lake Maggiore benched hairpin corner for example).


During "Race Together" similar was also happening with Sophy in the early events according to a deveveloper.

 

[onedjyoulike]

I too have witnessed Coq au vin turn a 2:08 the last 2 laps on his worn out SS, and not pit.. Cheating bastard Side note, ran out and bought a wheel today, MT here I come!

Welp that solved that problem and no need to read that article about why motion steering is better on the controller.

I wish I had the funds to get a wheel right now but that will have to wait. For anyone who is already driving with a wheel and VR, I have one additional accessory that I will not drive without. So I can highly recommend it.

Spoiler: Shopping addicts and anyone who has to hide their Sim Racing expenses may want to move along instead of clicking here and reading further.

I mean I have entered a race without the accessory maybe 10 times, but it sucked not having it. I ordered it before I decided to buy the PSVR2. My entire history with Gran Turismo is because of PSVR2 so this product is an equal part of my experience.

I did mention it once in the thread. It is the Woojer Vest 3. It's a haptic vest that works with any stereo audio you feed to it and is essentially a wearable subwoofer. It is perfect for Gran Turismo because it compliments the sound settings well. Similar to how you can balance the audio between race sounds and background music, you can set the vest to focus and react more to either type of audio. The same torque and feedback you feel in the wheel and PS5 controller is accompanied by the exact low frequency sounds that the Vest responds to and sends all throughout your core. I prefer to just leave it on the default music setting and anytime I take a vehicle for its first drive I don't play any music so I can feel the engine and torque in all its glory. But after 10-30 minutes of that, I fire up Spotify and it feels like I'm racing a powerful car with an equally powerful sound system bumping my music. I think if GT7 had a spotter for VR it might kill the whole fun of listening to the music, but currently, there is no such feature. One other awesome feature of the Vest is its built-in headphone amp that upgrades the sound of any well-designed pair of headphones.

I have no connection with the company but I do have a history with closely following the development of the technology that dates back over a decade. I had no hand in the development of the technology, but one of my lifelong friends had a short-lived but important role with a startup that invented a haptic vest called Kor-FX back in the early 2010s. That product pre-dates the Subpac and Woojer and laid the groundwork for those products to be able to target both the gaming and audio industries. My friend was able to drag me and my girlfriend at the time with him to the E3 Gaming convention in LA to hang out at the Kor-Fx booth on an all-expenses paid gaming weekend. The booth rental was a half a million dollars so they were fine with a couple of tagalongs.

So over the years I have followed the development of the Subpac and Woojer brands and finally pulled the trigger on the Vest 3 after getting to demo the Vest 2 back in 2022. I had no idea when I ordered the Vest that GT7 was going to be the primary reason I would get so much value and time spent with the product. 15 months later and rarely missed a day of using it and I can say it was money well spent. But now I also feel FOMO when it comes to purchasing a wheel, pedals, and cockpit. The Woojer Vest helps ease my pain. One could argue it massages away the pain.

 

[onedjyoulike]

When I consider a car for this guide there are a few simple requirements and questions to be answered about the tuning.

When using Auto Transmission can you stay in Fuel Map 1 for the whole race needing no more than 1 pit stop?
Does it have good straight-line speed and is not easily passed on the long straight?
After wall-riding the first turn on lap 1 are you in a top 5 position in the race?

If a car can answer yes to those questions, then I will test it and run the whole race to see if it was easy to grab the win and CRB. I'm now testing them on Hard Difficulty. When I created the guide all testing was done on Normal Difficulty.

Mitsubishi Lancer Evo IV GSR '96 - 600PP - Sport Hard tires - Tokyo - 1.43 - Tested this tonight and I would rank it as a Tier 1 and top 5 car for beginners in this race. I was in 1st place after the first corner of lap 3. Never lost position and obtained the CRB. One pit stop to refuel with no tire change after lap 7.

 

[Eunos_Cosmo]

It's not the easiest to drive in the wet, but I was able to run fairly consistently 2:09s and win this handily on a one-stopper with a completely stock, straight out of the UCD Mercedes Mclaren SLR. It's a fun car to drive and the sound of the supercharged V8 is beautiful. Just watch the throttle application out of the last corner and manage the fuel. It will do around 205mph on the main straight.

 

[onedjyoulike]

Previously when testing the Suzuki Escudo Pikes Peak Special I was attempting Praiano's 600pp tune at 570hp. It wasn't a top car for this guide. But I discovered this tuning which is 1186hp after I copied the settings. 1st car I've seen that is in P1 after the first wall ride. So CRB is an easy task once you learn a little throttle management. FM1 with one stop after lap 7 or 8. I think this was my fastest time yet with auto transmission. I did the wall ride on turns 1 and 2 on this tune. I saw a comment from someone recommending wallriding corners 1,2,5,6,7,8, and 9. It would be best if you were easy on speed and acceleration on the final hairpin.