True Force Tuning Resurrected [2015]

[NITROVIOUS]

T12 I have noticed the controller setups run seriously stiff ARB's and springrates. Any reason for that? I always understood you could calm down springrates for a bit more grip and compliance.

l'm not very good at explaining why l set up a car a certain way. My initial thought usually is "how much can l get away with " . More often than not there is some give & take involved , give a little here to get a little there . l have no set in stone formula , l approach each tracks challenges differently . l'll be the first to admit that l'm not the greatest at tuning suspension , and no doubt there is lots of room for improvements .

Low downforce = stiff springs , as downforce increases springs get softer
Low ride height = stiff roll bars , to minimise body roll , also determined by tallest rumble strip
Toe & Camber always by " feel " not very scientific l know , but thats how l do it .

All of these controller setups were made using T/C & ABS / tire wear set to off .
As Terronium says " driver discretion advised " .

 

[Terronium-12]

So, with the smell of F1 season in the midst, I have a hankering to jump in my MP4-24 and run about Monza, Sao Paulo, and Albert Park.

The point being does anyone still play and/or require tunes?

 

[grafpt]

I traded this a while ago. I will once 2011 comes out lol

 

[Terronium-12]

Really getting back into this but I can't perform as I should with a sequential stick!

I need a new wheel. Fast. I'm thinking of resurrecting the Pictures thread...even though I'll probably be the only person contributing at this point.

 

[Terronium-12]

Been a real long time but guess what? I'll be updating this (and the OP) for a little while, banging out tunes for the rest of locations and improved versions for existing tunes.

See below for the first updated tune.

 

[Terronium-12]

Monaco, Version 3 [Dry]

NOTE: General tune for all chassis.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 11
Rear Wing Angle - 11

Braking

Balance - 48/52
Pressure - Low
Brake Size - Standard

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 70/30
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 8
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 8

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 4
Rear Ride Height - 4
Front Spring Stiffness - 1
Rear Spring Stiffness - 1

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 67 mph
Gear 2 - 83 mph
Gear 3 - 101 mph
Gear 4 - 117 mph
Gear 5 - 131 mph
Gear 6 - 148 mph
Gear 7 - 166 mph

Engine

Throttle Map - Fast

Alignment

Camber Front - -0.80
Camber Rear - -2.90
Toe Front - 0.13
Toe Rear - 0.41

Disclaimer: Tested with the MP4-25 and RB6; fastest practice laps (respectively): 1:15.505, 1:15.303. Affix the tune to the MP4-25 first and the gear ratios will auto adjust on every chassis used thereafter.

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.

 

[fissionproject]

^^ I'll have to give that a shot since I'm prone to sliding around everywhere at Monaco

 

[Terronium-12]

Canada [Dry]

NOTE: General tune for all chassis.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 6
Rear Wing Angle - 4

Braking

Balance - 49/51
Pressure - Low
Brake Size - Standard

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 60/40
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 7
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 8

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 5
Rear Ride Height - 5
Front Spring Stiffness - 4
Rear Spring Stiffness - 4

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 82 mph
Gear 2 - 103 mph
Gear 3 - 120 mph
Gear 4 - 139 mph
Gear 5 - 161 mph
Gear 6 - 182 mph
Gear 7 - 204 mph (Alternatively: 200 mph)

Engine

Throttle Map - Fast

Alignment

Camber Front - -1.00
Camber Rear - -2.90
Toe Front - 0.12
Toe Rear - 0.38

Disclaimer: Tested with the F10 (F150 Italia), MP4-25 (MP4-26), and the RB6 (RB7); fastest practice lap: 1:12.653 (RB6).

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.

 

[Terronium-12]

Monaco, Version 4 [Dry]

NOTE: General tune for all chassis.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 10
Rear Wing Angle - 10

Braking

Balance - 48/52
Pressure - Low
Brake Size - Standard

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 70/30
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 8
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 8

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 4
Rear Ride Height - 6
Front Spring Stiffness - 1
Rear Spring Stiffness - 1

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 67 mph
Gear 2 - 83 mph
Gear 3 - 101 mph
Gear 4 - 117 mph
Gear 5 - 131 mph
Gear 6 - 150 mph
Gear 7 - 172 mph

Engine

Throttle Map - Fast

Alignment

Camber Front - -0.80
Camber Rear - -2.90
Toe Front - 0.13
Toe Rear - 0.41

Disclaimer: Greatly improved tune that allows for a bit more (aggressive) use of the curb. So improved, and to a greater extent, so stable that I'll go on record as to say the absolute slowest you should manage with this is 1:15.xxx. Otherwise you're doing it really, really wrong. Tested with the MP4-25.

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.

 

[Terronium-12]

Marina Bay (Shanghai) [Wet]

NOTE: General tune for all chassis.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 6
Rear Wing Angle - 6

Braking

Balance - 50/50
Pressure - Low
Brake Size - Standard

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 70/30
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 6
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 7

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 3
Rear Ride Height - 4
Front Spring Stiffness - 2
Rear Spring Stiffness - 2

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 87 mph
Gear 2 - 109 mph
Gear 3 - 129 mph
Gear 4 - 150 mph
Gear 5 - 172 mph
Gear 6 - 194 mph
Gear 7 - 218 mph

Engine

Throttle Map - Fast

Alignment

Camber Front - -1.00
Camber Rear - -3.00
Toe Front - 0.12
Toe Rear - 0.38

Disclaimer: Tested with the Sauber C29 (C30), Ferrari F10 (F150), and the RB6 (RB7). This is really a test version with low downforce and equally-distributed brake bias. It is stable with just a hint of mild understeer.

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.

 

[Terronium-12]

Yas Marina [Dry]

NOTE: General tune for all chassis.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 2
Rear Wing Angle - 2

Braking

Balance - 48/52
Pressure - Low
Brake Size - Standard

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 60/40
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 5
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 8

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 1
Rear Ride Height - 1
Front Spring Stiffness - 2
Rear Spring Stiffness - 2

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 87 mph
Gear 2 - 109 mph
Gear 3 - 129 mph
Gear 4 - 152 mph
Gear 5 - 174 mph
Gear 6 - 198 mph
Gear 7 - 222 mph

Engine

Throttle Map - Fast

Alignment

Camber Front - -1.00
Camber Rear - -3.00
Toe Front - 0.12
Toe Rear - 0.38

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.

 

[drskn08]

Hispania Racing F1 Team (HRT) F110, Version 2

NOTE: This is also general tune, an alternative of sorts for use on all tracks. Any individual adjustments to suit your style for the track must be carried out on your own terms. Suggestions are welcomed of course.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 6
Rear Wing Angle - 5

Braking

Balance - 49/51
Pressure - Medium
Brake Size - Standard

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 30/70
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 6
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 8

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 5
Rear Ride Height - 5
Front Spring Stiffness - 7
Rear Spring Stiffness - 7

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 83
Gear 2 - 102
Gear 3 - 120
Gear 4 - 139
Gear 5 - 159
Gear 6 - 180
Gear 7 - 202

Alignment

Camber Front - -1.00
Camber Rear - -3.00
Toe Front - 0.10
Toe Rear - 0.35

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.

THANKS A LOT BUDDY.
I was Just looking for such setting. I m new to F1 2010 n loved hv so much. Ill try ur setting n then let u know about ur settings provided.

BUT.. Can u tell me that the speed u provided for various Gears...
" are they in Kilometers/hours (km/h)
or in Miles/hours(MPH) ? I mean wot r their UNITS ?"

i m sorry if it seems funny to masters of F1. lol but need to know. (as early as possible)

Thanking You once again :-)


i think i got my answer...
it is MPH right ?

 

[Tesla]

I don't think the HRT could pull 200mph...but 200kmh is rediculous.

 

[drskn08]

I don't think the HRT could pull 200mph...but 200kmh is rediculous.

so its mph..is it ?

 

[drskn08]

hey Terronium-12..
thank u for ur efforts for providing so many setting.. i am struggling in malesiyan track/kualalumpur... in practice...
i used the setup Version 2 and setup for sepang for practice n i did so well with these setups.. both gave me laptime of around 1:49 n i stood 1st but only until rain stopped...
once rain stoped i found difficult in turns n there are other guys finishing laps with 1:39 ya its 1:39..!
so can u plz tell me some modifications i would require for better turnings..? i mean shd i change something in breaks/aerodyanamics o where shd i pay attention.. well let me tell u tat i dun hv that much knowledge about setups in vehicles.. n ya i m in virgin team lol n playing n pc..
thanking u in advance..!

 

[Terronium-12]

Let's see...

For Malaysia you want just enough speed you can ride off on the long straight just before the corner to the start/finish, but you don't want to compromise the handling at all. Try the following:

- Bump the brake pressure up to high, and the size to small.
- Bump the ballast to 60/40 or 70/30; try 60/40 first.
- Lower the height to 3 even, and bump/lower the stiffness to 7F and 6R...experiment from there.
- Adjust the camber to 1.30 or 1.40 even
- Adjust toe as necessary; I'd recommend trying 0.13/0.41 or 0.45

 

[drskn08]

Let's see...

For Malaysia you want just enough speed you can ride off on the long straight just before the corner to the start/finish, but you don't want to compromise the handling at all. Try the following:

- Bump the brake pressure up to high, and the size to small.
- Bump the ballast to 60/40 or 70/30; try 60/40 first.
- Lower the height to 3 even, and bump/lower the stiffness to 7F and 6R...experiment from there.
- Adjust the camber to 1.30 or 1.40 even
- Adjust toe as necessary; I'd recommend trying 0.13/0.41 or 0.45

Thank u Terronium for ur reply...
it is not that i hv not tried to change various ratio n practiced but as i mentioned earlier i am not that gd in different parts of a vehicle ,i find myself unable to understand that which effects are due to which change so me and my frns will be obliged to u if u can answer us in following format...

What will be the effect or how will the drive be affected if we....


[A]Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - (1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-

Rear Wing Angle - (1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-


Braking

Balance - (1) ratio increase-
(2) ratio decrease-

Pressure - Low-
High-

Brake Size - Standard/small


[C]Balance-

Ballast Distribution - (1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-

Front Anti-Roll Bar - (1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-

Rear Anti-Roll Bar -(1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-


[D]Suspension

Front Ride Height - (1) Increased-
(2) Decreased-

Rear Ride Height -(1) Increased-
(2) Decreased-

Front Spring Stiffness - (1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-

Rear Spring Stiffness - (1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-



[E]Alignment

Camber Front - (1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-

Camber Rear - (1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-

Toe Front - (1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-

Toe Rear -(1) Increase-
(2) Decrease-



I know it is so tough n may be boring to u but it will help not only to me n my frnds but also every one heading to this forum n thus we may get much feed back about the suitable setups F1 2010


ya another question.. u said me to keep the breake pressure high and size to small.. i can change the pressure but the breake size appearing in grey color and i cant click it why ?

here i really would be greatful to u for answering such a lengthy task.. but i know only u can do this.. lol

waiting for ur reply

 

[Terronium-12]

Well, I'm not the only one who can answer, but I get what you mean. If you're doing this through career then some things aren't going to be available to you until mid-season once you've completed objectives and 'unlock' performance packages. As for what you're asking:

1. Experiment with the downforce values: higher front downforce aids in grip and can, in effect with other settings, allow greater front-end maneuverability (responsiveness) through corners. Not to mention you'll be able to carry more speed through practically any corner provided entry and exit is smooth and steady. Rear downforce stabilizes the tail from stepping out and causing loss of grip; the downside is it increases drag, therefore decreasing top-end speed and acceleration...unless the gear ratios are really narrow. You can get away with more downforce at the front so long as the rear has some sense of balance, like 3F, 1R, or 8F, 3R -- those aren't suggestions, just examples.

2. Don't go overboard with this at all. Too much front bias and the car understeers into every corner because of excess brake travel. Too much rear bias and the car oversteers into every corner because of excess brake travel; both of which are the result of lock-up. Having ABS on nullifies that to some degree but you'll still get under or oversteer in either situation. I wouldn't recommend going further than 54/46 or 46/54./

- Higher the pressure the more sensitive brake application is; too much results in lock-up, and too little...well I'm pretty sure you can figure this one out yourself.

- If you have a choice, use small as it's lighter. Otherwise stick with standard.

3. Ballast is nothing but a weight bias; more at the front means you're likely to have an edge in front end grip but the rear will be, if worse comes to, all over the damn place. More at the rear doesn't decrease front end grip so to speak, it just stabilizes cornering behavior..preferably at high speeds.

- ARB's potentially increase chassis responsiveness by foregoing front-end understeer and rear-end oversteer. Too stiff and you're likely to bottom out.

4. Ride height is simple: lower - more downforce as a result of a lower center of gravity. Higher - more aggressive use of curbing at the slight expense of, let's say, absolute downforce.

- Spring stiffness/softness also aid in the responsiveness of the chassis. Higher/Stiffer (in addition to other settings) usually equates to higher responsiveness. Lower/Softer usually equates to more stability.

5. Toe and Camber aid in grip, stability, and to a lesser degree - responsiveness. Higher equates to more cornering/lateral grip (and responsiveness. Lower equates to more stable cornering behavior at the slight expense of outright cornering grip.

 

[drskn08]

1. Experiment with the downforce values: higher front downforce aids in grip and can, in effect with other settings, allow greater front-end maneuverability (responsiveness) through corners. Not to mention you'll be able to carry more speed through practically any corner provided entry and exit is smooth and steady. Rear downforce stabilizes the tail from stepping out and causing loss of grip; the downside is it increases drag, therefore decreasing top-end speed and acceleration...unless the gear ratios are really narrow. You can get away with more downforce at the front so long as the rear has some sense of balance, like 3F, 1R, or 8F, 3R -- those aren't suggestions, just examples.

.

(1)are u talking abt the aerodynamic (front/rear wing angles) here?

5. Toe and Camber aid in grip, stability, and to a lesser degree - responsiveness. Higher equates to more cornering/lateral grip (and responsiveness. Lower equates to more stable cornering behavior at the slight expense of outright cornering grip.

(2)higher equates means more negative value of Camber & more (positive)value of Toe?
n does it mean Toe n Camber hv the main role in stabilty while running in corners ?

(3) lower height will also provide better stabilty in corners ? then where do we need more height .. in straight road ?

(4)do the cars provided by different teams in game perform differently or its just the AI of the drivers which make to stand them in different rank in rank table...? i mean does my performance improve if i choose red bull's car than that of virgin team ?

 

[Terronium-12]

(1)are u talking abt the aerodynamic (front/rear wing angles) here?

Yep.

(2)higher equates means more negative value of Camber & more (positive)value of Toe?
n does it mean Toe n Camber hv the main role in stabilty while running in corners ?

Yeah, and I wouldn't say they have the main role, but they definitely play a significant one.

(3) lower height will also provide better stabilty in corners ? then where do we need more height .. in straight road?

Generally speaking, yes. If the location is mostly high speed corners like Monza for example you can get away with a 1/1 ride height, however, you'd have to be cautious applying throttle when exiting corners if you plan on using as much of the curb/rumble strip as possible. If you apply too much you're going to end up facing the opposite direction (especially in wet conditions where an extremely low ride height isn't really as beneficial as it is in dry conditions). A higher ride height permits more aggressive use of the curbs/rumble strips since there's very little for said strip to "grab a hold of" and/or affect suspension load balancing.

A perfect example of where too low a ride height won't do you any favors is Monaco. Why? Try taking a corner while riding the rumble strip with the lowest ride height and see where you end up.

(4)do the cars provided by different teams in game perform differently or its just the AI of the drivers which make to stand them in different rank in rank table...? i mean does my performance improve if i choose red bull's car than that of virgin team ?

CM tried to play it off as if the field was, for the most part, genuinely even but that's as far from the truth as possible. The RB6 can be driven harder through corners, has better lateral grip, and arguably, better acceleration - just as the real RB6 did. The MP4-25 excels in top speed and has comparable grip and acceleration - just as the real chassis. The F10 is the midway between the former two but it has better cornering grip. At least at Monaco it does...but it lacks the outright speed of the MP4-25 - just as the real F10. I could go on but I'm sure you get the point.

 

[drskn08]

Yep.



Yeah, and I wouldn't say they have the main role, but they definitely play a significant one.



Generally speaking, yes. If the location is mostly high speed corners like Monza for example you can get away with a 1/1 ride height, however, you'd have to be cautious applying throttle when exiting corners if you plan on using as much of the curb/rumble strip as possible. If you apply too much you're going to end up facing the opposite direction (especially in wet conditions where an extremely low ride height isn't really as beneficial as it is in dry conditions). A higher ride height permits more aggressive use of the curbs/rumble strips since there's very little for said strip to "grab a hold of" and/or affect suspension load balancing.

A perfect example of where too low a ride height won't do you any favors is Monaco. Why? Try taking a corner while riding the rumble strip with the lowest ride height and see where you end up.



CM tried to play it off as if the field was, for the most part, genuinely even but that's as far from the truth as possible. The RB6 can be driven harder through corners, has better lateral grip, and arguably, better acceleration - just as the real RB6 did. The MP4-25 excels in top speed and has comparable grip and acceleration - just as the real chassis. The F10 is the midway between the former two but it has better cornering grip. At least at Monaco it does...but it lacks the outright speed of the MP4-25 - just as the real F10. I could go on but I'm sure you get the point.

well... i dunno how much i catch u but m sure i will get u as my career goes on.. :-) but i'm really thankful to you for all these valuable information... i will try to post my experience as soon as i use ur setups.. n yes i may rise few more questions in future too..

 

[drskn08]

Let's see...

For Malaysia you want just enough speed you can ride off on the long straight just before the corner to the start/finish, but you don't want to compromise the handling at all. Try the following:

- Bump the brake pressure up to high, and the size to small.
- Bump the ballast to 60/40 or 70/30; try 60/40 first.
- Lower the height to 3 even, and bump/lower the stiffness to 7F and 6R...experiment from there.
- Adjust the camber to 1.30 or 1.40 even
- Adjust toe as necessary; I'd recommend trying 0.13/0.41 or 0.45

hi Terronium..

i used above setup for practice in rainy track in malaysia with following this :

Aerodynamic-
Front - 8
rear 7

Break-
balance- 60/40
pressure- high


Balance-
front ARB- 3
Rear ARB- 3
Front stiffness- 7
rear stiffness- 6

Alignment-
Camber front- -1.30
Camber rear- -3.00
Toe front- 013
Toe rear- 0.41



My Result [AS FAR AS RAIN CONTINUES] -
Lap Time- 1:49:339
Position- 1st

Others Lap Time- around 1:51 (more than 1:51)

during this period (while raining) i go smoothly n that too with gd speed through even tight corners... feel like its my car itself assisting me in driving... no problem at all.. so great..

NOW..

My Result [WHEN RAIN STOPS]-
My Lap Time- more than 1:52-52.. even some time around 2:00
Position- between 20 to 24

the1st rank holders Lap Time- 1:39 or 40


now my car is oversteering.. my car throws me outside the widest turn also.. though i am trying to make no/little errors...


can u suggest me what wrong is there?
* ya i hv been using the default intermediate tyres provided by my crew members for the whole practic...when its raining or not...

do u think i shd change my tyres once the rain stops... but as intermediate tyres are for damp roads n the track shd still be damp/wet after rain is over...?

please.. i need ur suggestion .....

 

[Terronium-12]

What a long time it's been since I've seen or even stepped foot in this thread. I've been logging lap after lap around the Autodromo Hermanos Rodriguez, and it's hell trying to get the car to be as responsive as I want because the CM F1 have never really been responsive enough to me. Having said that I worked out a test tune that I'd appreciate some feedback on.

Autódromo Hermanos Rodríguez, Test [Dry]

NOTE: Tested with the Williams FW37 and Mercedes W06.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 3
Rear Wing Angle - 4

Transmission

Differential Adjustment On Throttle - 66%
Differential Adjustment Off Throttle - 69%

Suspension Geometry

Front Camber - -2.70
Rear Camber - -1.40
Front Toe - 0.12
Rear Toe - 0.29

Suspension

Front Suspension - 1
Rear Suspension - 1
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 5
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 6

Tires

Front Tire Pressure - 18.0 psi
Rear Tire Pressure - 18.0 psi

Weight Distribution

Ballast - 6

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.