True Force Tuning Resurrected [2015]

Scuderia Ferrari F10 - Istanbul Edition [Test Version]

NOTE: Feedback required. This is a test tune for all cars, the F10 was just the testing vessel, I'll adapt the tune to the other vehicles as needed.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 5
Rear Wing Angle - 5

Braking

Balance - 52/48
Pressure - Medium
Brake Size - Small

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 60/40
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 5
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 4

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 3
Rear Ride Height - 3
Front Spring Stiffness - 7
Rear Spring Stiffness - 8

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 92 mph
Gear 2 - 111 mph
Gear 3 - 134 mph
Gear 4 - 158 mph
Gear 5 - 176 mph
Gear 6 - 191 mph
Gear 7 - 212 mph

Alignment

Camber Front - -1.10
Camber Rear - -3.00
Toe Front - 0.12
Toe Rear - 0.44

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.
 
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For those with an iPhone (& iTouch or sim) sounds like this little app has some promise:
RaceSetup 2010


Do not spammerz my thread, sir. Thank you very much. :P

Joking aside, that's actually a pretty cool app...but I'm not paying for it. I have my own setup application, a combination of what's here, my memory, and trial and error.

That's right, I'm mega old-fashioned. :lol:

Well, maybe not 'mega', I mean, I don't code my tunes in phonetics or anything like that.
 
Ya. MAYBE 99c but not $3.

I would like to request a Cosworth tune for Malaysia please ^_^

You realize that all three new teams use Cosworth engines, right? :P

Specifics, man. I. Need. Specifics!
 
Do not spammerz my thread, sir. Thank you very much. :P

Joking aside, that's actually a pretty cool app...but I'm not paying for it. I have my own setup application, a combination of what's here, my memory, and trial and error.

That's right, I'm mega old-fashioned. :lol:

Well, maybe not 'mega', I mean, I don't code my tunes in phonetics or anything like that.

Yeah I kinda struggled internally where to post the link... main thread, this thread, main thread, this thread, etc. Finally gave me tired head and I just kinda flipped a coin as "here" is the only dedicated tuning related thread so far.

Anyhoos... don't have an i(Anything) so can't try it out, but just thought someone out there might appreciate the heads up.
 
Lotus-Cosworth T127 - Monaco Edition [Test Version]

NOTE: Feedback required.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 9 (Alternatively, use 10/10)
Rear Wing Angle - 9

Braking

Balance - 52/48
Pressure - Low
Brake Size - Standard

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 60/40
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 3
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 8

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 2
Rear Ride Height - 2
Front Spring Stiffness - 5
Rear Spring Stiffness - 5

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 76 mph
Gear 2 - 93 mph
Gear 3 - 110 mph
Gear 4 - 125 mph
Gear 5 - 143 mph
Gear 6 - 162 mph
Gear 7 - 182 mph

Alignment

Camber Front - -1.10
Camber Rear - -3.00
Toe Front - 0.15
Toe Rear - 0.50

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.
 
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Virgin-Cosworth VR-01 - Sepang Edition [Test Version]

NOTE: Feedback required.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 7
Rear Wing Angle - 7

Braking

Balance - 51/49
Pressure - Low
Brake Size - Standard

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 40/60
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 4
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 2

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 5
Rear Ride Height - 5
Front Spring Stiffness - 3
Rear Spring Stiffness - 1

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 95 mph
Gear 2 - 118 mph
Gear 3 - 137 mph
Gear 4 - 155 mph
Gear 5 - 172 mph
Gear 6 - 191 mph
Gear 7 - 205 mph

Alignment

Camber Front - -1.20
Camber Rear - -3.00
Toe Front - 0.13
Toe Rear - 0.38

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.
 
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Mercedes GP MGP-W01 - Sao Paulo Edition

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 3
Rear Wing Angle - 2

Braking

Balance - 52/48
Pressure - Medium
Brake Size - Small

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 40/60
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 7
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 8

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 2
Rear Ride Height - 2
Front Spring Stiffness - 8
Rear Spring Stiffness - 7

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 89 mph
Gear 2 - 111 mph
Gear 3 - 132 mph
Gear 4 - 157 mph
Gear 5 - 176 mph
Gear 6 - 194 mph
Gear 7 - 222 mph

Engine

Throttle Map - Fast

Alignment

Camber Front - -1.20
Camber Rear - -3.10
Toe Front - 0.15
Toe Rear - 0.50

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.
 
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BMW Sauber-Ferrari C29 - Sao Paulo Edition [Controller Use]

NOTE: This is the original tune devised by Chef, and since he uses a controller, I've marked it as such.

Aerodynamics

Front Wing Angle - 1
Rear Wing Angle - 1

Braking

Balance - 50/50
Pressure - High
Brake Size - Small

Balance

Ballast Distribution - 50/50
Front Anti-Roll Bar - 9
Rear Anti-Roll Bar - 8

Suspension

Front Ride Height - 2
Rear Ride Height - 2
Front Spring Stiffness - 10
Rear Spring Stiffness - 9

Gearbox

Gear 1 - 89 mph
Gear 2 - 111 mph
Gear 3 - 132 mph
Gear 4 - 157 mph
Gear 5 - 176 mph
Gear 6 - 194 mph
Gear 7 - 216 mph

Engine

Throttle Map - Fast

Alignment

Camber Front - -1.50
Camber Rear - -3.50
Toe Front - 0.15
Toe Rear - 0.50

True Force Tuning - Driver Discretion Advised.
 
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You're Monaco setup was only just reaching the 7th gear at the end of the tunnel but other than that it was fine. :)
 
Goodness the EGO engine at Monaco is god awful :yuck:.

On topic, tried out the setup using Virgin (pad, TC full, no ABS) and I still find my times are much better, like over a second, by reducing the rear camber to -2.7 or so. Maybe it is just my driving style, or the non-smooth nature of pad driving, but with less camber I continue to break much later, accelerate faster and ultimately reach higher top speeds as well. Just my $0.02.
 
Goodness the EGO engine at Monaco is god awful :yuck:.

On topic, tried out the setup using Virgin (pad, TC full, no ABS) and I still find my times are much better, like over a second, by reducing the rear camber to -2.7 or so. Maybe it is just my driving style, or the non-smooth nature of pad driving, but with less camber I continue to break much later, accelerate faster and ultimately reach higher top speeds as well. Just my $0.02.

It would be a combination of the two; your driving style and the fact you use a pad. I can't cater to that...actually, that's an outright lie. I could, all I'd have to do is plug in the DS3 and I could cater to a wider demographic (of sorts).

Will I go through the trouble? Can't say at the moment because the sensations are going to be entirely different and as such the tunes are also going to be entirely different.
 
First off, thanks for all the time & effort you put in here Terronium!! :cheers:

It's much appreciated.

I'm trying to get a handle on all this tuning, but my driving just isn't good enough nor consistent enough yet to really tell if the changes in tuning are making THAT much of a difference.



Could you give a bit of explanation on your thought process with these tunes?


Would you say your tunes are more track or car specific?

Do you find that the various manufacturer cars really handle all that differently when all compared in their stock settings?

When racing online, do you pick a sort of "middle of the road" tune and just run with it, or are you always tuning for the specific car and/or track??

Lastly, what is the theory behind using a smaller brake size? Does less drag outweigh the loss in stopping power?


TYIA for your feedback:tup:
 
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Thanks for the monaco tune terronium. It works very well on the HRT aswell, i went from 1:21.xxx to 1:19.1xx straight away.

Bit of feedback though, with the 6 speed tune you have it seems the other cars run away so quick on the straights. the corner before the tunnel i can be right on their bumper 25m after the exit but then they run away too easily. Perhaps a 7 gear tune would be better.

But anyway great tune thanks very much.
 
Goodness the EGO engine at Monaco is god awful :yuck:.

seconded. its horrible sometimes. i find myself entering a corner then the game sort of cutting in and out next thing i know im exiting like the corner never happened. pretty dissapointing as i was looking forward to monaco.
 
Bit of feedback though, with the 6 speed tune you have it seems the other cars run away so quick on the straights. the corner before the tunnel i can be right on their bumper 25m after the exit but then they run away too easily. Perhaps a 7 gear tune would be better.

Yeah I had that same problem at the same corner. Luckily I found different places to overtake:idea:
 
Yeah I had that same problem at the same corner. Luckily I found different places to overtake:idea:

Yeah i find at the start you can grab 4-5 places before the first corner. then into turn 5 there is a couple up for grabs on the inside late braking, then on the inside for turn 6 you can get two. I think my best start was from 15th to 5th by the exit of turn 6.

The consistently overtake on corners 5 and 6.
 
First off, thanks for all the time & effort you put in here Terronium!! :cheers:

It's much appreciated.

I'm trying to get a handle on all this tuning, but my driving just isn't good enough nor consistent enough yet to really tell if the changes in tuning are making THAT much of a difference.

Could you give a bit of explanation on your thought process with these tunes?

TYIA for your feedback:tup:

Sorry for the late response, I've been all over the place the last few days. :crazy:

In any case, I answered a similar question not too long ago, although not as broad of an answer as your questions require, but I'll quote myself anyway:
Well, I have a particular driving style (as I've said up above) I despise understeer for all that it's worth because it diminishes turn-in response, and belittles traction because of the wandering turning radius. Oversteer, on the other hand is far more manageable. Yes, it's a bit erratic and considerably clumsy but it can be controlled. Understeer can't be controlled without removing pressure from the accelerator, and essentially dry-steering the car into a forthright angle. Now, let's assume I'm taking that *thinks of random chassis* the VJM02 (Force India) around Monza or Suzuka, two tracks I know very, very well. The very first thing I'd do is take the car around for 1 or 2 laps to see how the default setup carries itself about before I start to narrow down any problems I'm having with the car. Once I go back to the garage I'll be begin tuning, and almost right the first thing I adjust is either aerodynamic downforce or ballast distribution.

Why would I adjust ballast?

To offset the natural understeer bias all of the cars seem to have. If you're thinking "Well, why not just increase toe, lower the ride height, etc..." you'd be right, but ballast shifts weight from one end (ideally there's a rear bias, but in-game has it being equally balanced, front and rear) of the vehicle to the other. With the front-heavy, or rear-heavy vehicle you'll obtain one of the following end results: A. With a front biased ballast the front end of the vehicle has more grip when cornering, and better turn-in (when paired with other settings) but risks the possibility of increasing understeer and/or plowing through corners - neither of which I've experienced as of yet. You're also leaving the rear end quite loose, so when entering a corner it's best to have the car straight before stomping the accelerator because if you're not careful the rear end will step out. B. With a rear biased ballast the rear end (as well as the front to some degree) exhibits greater stability when turning into corners. Although you can't really carry as much speed into chicanes or sweepers without running just a tad bit wide. For the most part, depending on the track and it's layout it's usually best to experiment with rear ballast first.

Toe-in and toe-out are two very important parameters when you want to improve turn-in response. To keep this short, greater values improve turn-in, lesser values inhibit turn-in by introducing mild understeer. Avoid extreme values. Camber improves tire adhesion (lateral grip) by tilting the wheel inward or outward, therefore increasing the surface area of the contact patch (better adhesion, more grip), or decreasing the surface area of the contact patch (the exact opposite). One thing worth remembering is camber is dynamic. Meaning it changes with every jounce of the suspension, so, it's best to read up on camber before adjusting it.
Would you say your tunes are more track or car specific?
My tunes are almost always a combination of me tuning around both the performance of the car and the track I'm on; if it's Monza, I know to tune for optimal grip, acceleration, and top speed - virtually taking downforce out of the equation. If it's Suzuka, I know to tune for optimal grip, acceleration, and downforce - virtually taking top speed out of the equation. My procedure solely depends on several factors, and perhaps the most important factor is track familiarity. If I know the track like the back of my hand, then it'll be no problem whatsoever coming up with competent tune, in fact, I've done so already - the MP4-25 for Monza in Wet conditions; that's a top 10 spot in the leaderboards tune (although it currently resides in 11th, officially making it a top 20 spot tune).

The handling of any of my tunes are down to the respective player, and as my driving style is fairly and aggressively precise (and perhaps a tad bit erratic) I wouldn't expect anyone to feel as comfortable as I would when using one of my tunes. Which is why I ask for feedback on test tunes, that way I can adjust whatever needs to be adjusted without hindering what the tune itself is capable of.

Do you find that the various manufacturer cars really handle all that differently when all compared in their stock settings?
They absolutely do. As I've been saying for a while now, while all of the cars in the game are on a fairly equal playing field, the bias that the top teams have on the rest of the field is almost as prevalent in the game as it is in the real events. I find the MP4-25 to be the best balanced and overall the most capable chassis in the game.

When racing online, do you pick a sort of "middle of the road" tune and just run with it, or are you always tuning for the specific car and/or track??
If I were to race online (which I don't) I'd always tune for the car and track. Always.

Lastly, what is the theory behind using a smaller brake size? Does less drag outweigh the loss in stopping power?

There really is no "theory" per se, just the simple fact that larger disc sizes are more resilient to wear and heat build-up simply because being that the disc is larger, it's bound to have more points at which it can dissipate heat efficiently. However, with the larger discs come an inherent weight increase, and that hinders performance. There really is no loss of braking power due to the size, the only downside is they'll wear out faster (although in Time Trial conditions, it's nothing but gain) because of the increased wear rate, which is directly correlated to the heat build-up - Smaller discs = lightweight, but increased heat because of the inability to exhaust heat efficiently. Larger discs = more weight, but decreased because of the ability to exhaust (dissipate) heat more efficiently.
 
Couple of tunes on the way...

First one to be posted will be for Sao Paulo, and will be the first universal tune for the top teams, I'll also work on a tune for the back markers. This method proves to be far more plentiful as opposed to my original method of car/track, track/car.
 
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