Used car for world championship

[Vishal1991]

Hi does anyone have any car suggestions+tunes for beating the world championship with a car from the used car section NTSC?
I want to give it my best shot without the black cars.

 

[lbpomg95]

One Youtuber managed it with a Mazda RX7. He had to re-roll several times to get a lineup without Group C/LMP cars though. The Lotus Esprit and Mustang SVT Cobra are viable, too.

 

[TeaKanji]

Your best option is likely going to be the RX-7 Type RZ '00. It's tied with the Type R Bathurst R (the trim that mrxbas used to beat GTWC for his "under 25k used car" challenge run) for having the best grip and least turning resistance, but it also has wider tyres than the Bathurst R, leading to better stability and reduced tyre wear. It's the rarest FD in the used dealer though, so you'll need to keep an eye on the late-90's dealership for it.

Compared to other options like the Esprit, Mustang, Griffith 500 and Cerbera Speed 6, it has a favourable 50:50 weight distribution and very even tyre wear, and while 590hp is barely enough to beat GTWC, it means it's quite easy to handle out of corners. Will still need a lot of line-up resetting, and you'll be finishing mid-pack until you get to technical tracks like Hong Kong when you can start building up points.

These are my settings for it, but bear in mind that this was built around sports softs, so you may need to add more camber for better cornering stability. Racing brakes were also added. If the car throws its weight around too much, try lowering the height to 105 / 95.

Shopping List​

oil change
rear wing
R muffler
racing brakes
brake balance controller
port polish
engine balancing
computer
custom transmission
triple clutch
R flywheel
custom LSD
driveshaft
original turbo (from tuner shop)
R intercooler
R suspension
racing hard tyres
weight reduction stage 1 + 2 + 3
rigidity refresh

Settings​

tyres: hard / hard [R2 / R2]

brake balance: 8 / 5

springs: 6.0 / 7.0
ride height: 110 / 100
bounds: 2 / 2
rebounds: 5 / 5
camber: 1.4 / 1.6
toe: 0 / 0
stabilisers: 6 / 7

gears: final to 5.500, then auto to 1, then final to 2.500, move 1st and 2nd gear all the way left, 4th gear on top of the third white line, and 5th and 6th all the way right (I can't open up GT4 right now so I can't give specific gear ratios with racing tyres, but you should be able to eyeball it)

downforce: 30 / 30

LSD I: 30
LSD A: 60
LSD D: 5

ballast: 35kg at 50 balance

ASM [O + U]: 0
TCS: 0 or 1 (set to 1 if you're driving in AT)

 

[Vishal1991]

One Youtuber managed it with a Mazda RX7. He had to re-roll several times to get a lineup without Group C/LMP cars though. The Lotus Esprit and Mustang SVT Cobra are viable, too.

Thank you. I didn't consider the rerolls

Your best option is likely going to be the RX-7 Type RZ '00. It's tied with the Type R Bathurst R (the trim that mrxbas used to beat GTWC for his "under 25k used car" challenge run) for having the best grip and least turning resistance, but it also has wider tyres than the Bathurst R, leading to better stability and reduced tyre wear. It's the rarest FD in the used dealer though, so you'll need to keep an eye on the late-90's dealership for it.

Compared to other options like the Esprit, Mustang, Griffith 500 and Cerbera Speed 6, it has a favourable 50:50 weight distribution and very even tyre wear, and while 590hp is barely enough to beat GTWC, it means it's quite easy to handle out of corners. Will still need a lot of line-up resetting, and you'll be finishing mid-pack until you get to technical tracks like Hong Kong when you can start building up points.

These are my settings for it, but bear in mind that this was built around sports softs, so you may need to add more camber for better cornering stability. Racing brakes were also added. If the car throws its weight around too much, try lowering the height to 105 / 95.

Shopping List​

oil change
rear wing
R muffler
racing brakes
brake balance controller
port polish
engine balancing
computer
custom transmission
triple clutch
R flywheel
custom LSD
driveshaft
original turbo (from tuner shop)
R intercooler
R suspension
racing hard tyres
weight reduction stage 1 + 2 + 3
rigidity refresh

Settings​

tyres: hard / hard [R2 / R2]

brake balance: 8 / 5

springs: 6.0 / 7.0
ride height: 110 / 100
bounds: 2 / 2
rebounds: 5 / 5
camber: 1.4 / 1.6
toe: 0 / 0
stabilisers: 6 / 7

gears: final to 5.500, then auto to 1, then final to 2.500, move 1st and 2nd gear all the way left, 4th gear on top of the third white line, and 5th and 6th all the way right (I can't open up GT4 right now so I can't give specific gear ratios with racing tyres, but you should be able to eyeball it)

downforce: 30 / 30

LSD I: 30
LSD A: 60
LSD D: 5

ballast: 35kg at 50 balance

ASM [O + U]: 0
TCS: 0 or 1 (set to 1 if you're driving in AT)

Thank you. I have the Bathurst and remember seeing the RZ in the dealership but wasn't paying attention and bought the wrong one aha. I will keep an eye out for it.

 

[Vishal1991]

Your best option is likely going to be the RX-7 Type RZ '00. It's tied with the Type R Bathurst R (the trim that mrxbas used to beat GTWC for his "under 25k used car" challenge run) for having the best grip and least turning resistance, but it also has wider tyres than the Bathurst R, leading to better stability and reduced tyre wear. It's the rarest FD in the used dealer though, so you'll need to keep an eye on the late-90's dealership for it.

Compared to other options like the Esprit, Mustang, Griffith 500 and Cerbera Speed 6, it has a favourable 50:50 weight distribution and very even tyre wear, and while 590hp is barely enough to beat GTWC, it means it's quite easy to handle out of corners. Will still need a lot of line-up resetting, and you'll be finishing mid-pack until you get to technical tracks like Hong Kong when you can start building up points.

These are my settings for it, but bear in mind that this was built around sports softs, so you may need to add more camber for better cornering stability. Racing brakes were also added. If the car throws its weight around too much, try lowering the height to 105 / 95.

Shopping List​

oil change
rear wing
R muffler
racing brakes
brake balance controller
port polish
engine balancing
computer
custom transmission
triple clutch
R flywheel
custom LSD
driveshaft
original turbo (from tuner shop)
R intercooler
R suspension
racing hard tyres
weight reduction stage 1 + 2 + 3
rigidity refresh

Settings​

tyres: hard / hard [R2 / R2]

brake balance: 8 / 5

springs: 6.0 / 7.0
ride height: 110 / 100
bounds: 2 / 2
rebounds: 5 / 5
camber: 1.4 / 1.6
toe: 0 / 0
stabilisers: 6 / 7

gears: final to 5.500, then auto to 1, then final to 2.500, move 1st and 2nd gear all the way left, 4th gear on top of the third white line, and 5th and 6th all the way right (I can't open up GT4 right now so I can't give specific gear ratios with racing tyres, but you should be able to eyeball it)

downforce: 30 / 30

LSD I: 30
LSD A: 60
LSD D: 5

ballast: 35kg at 50 balance

ASM [O + U]: 0
TCS: 0 or 1 (set to 1 if you're driving in AT)

Its working great in the supercar festival and all japan gt championship however for standing starts it gets completely bogged down at the start. Is there any was to help this at all?

There is also a bit of understeer as well although I dont know if its just me expecting too much from a road car aha.

 

[TeaKanji]

Its working great in the supercar festival and all japan gt championship however for standing starts it gets completely bogged down at the start. Is there any was to help this at all?

Shorten the final drive. I'm assuming you've set TCS to 1, so yeah, you can afford it since you don't need to worry as much about throttle control or wheelspin. You should have enough top speed even with a much shorter final, as high-powered FR's with 6-speed transmissions are quite flexible. Just keep in mind that you'll wear out the rear tyres more quickly if you're driving in AT and you allow the car to keep dropping into 1st gear.

The newer FD RX-7's have a ton of rear wheel grip, so I assume that's what's causing the feeling of understeer. You can soften the springs on both sides or reduce the rear camber if you want, though the car will likely feel more unstable as a result. But yeah, there's only so much grip that a 30 / 30 downforce car can provide.

 

[Vishal1991]

Shorten the final drive. I'm assuming you've set TCS to 1, so yeah, you can afford it since you don't need to worry as much about throttle control or wheelspin. You should have enough top speed even with a much shorter final, as high-powered FR's with 6-speed transmissions are quite flexible. Just keep in mind that you'll wear out the rear tyres more quickly if you're driving in AT and you allow the car to keep dropping into 1st gear.

The newer FD RX-7's have a ton of rear wheel grip, so I assume that's what's causing the feeling of understeer. You can soften the springs on both sides or reduce the rear camber if you want, though the car will likely feel more unstable as a result. But yeah, there's only so much grip that a 30 / 30 downforce car can provide.

Thanks, lowering the spring rates by 0.5 from your original setup made a balanced difference. Its not as stable but manageable. I tried lowing the rear camber by 0.4 from your settings as well which gave great front end but it was a bit too unstable.

I tried shortening the final drive to 2.750 and 3.000 but unfortunately it wasn't enough.
What worked for me was a combination of moving 1st gear to the 2nd white line and shortening the final drive to 2.750. Made a huge difference driving around suzuka short track and seoul around the track as well without sacrificing too much top end speed. Its helped my bspec driver as well.

 

[Vishal1991]

Shorten the final drive. I'm assuming you've set TCS to 1, so yeah, you can afford it since you don't need to worry as much about throttle control or wheelspin. You should have enough top speed even with a much shorter final, as high-powered FR's with 6-speed transmissions are quite flexible. Just keep in mind that you'll wear out the rear tyres more quickly if you're driving in AT and you allow the car to keep dropping into 1st gear.

The newer FD RX-7's have a ton of rear wheel grip, so I assume that's what's causing the feeling of understeer. You can soften the springs on both sides or reduce the rear camber if you want, though the car will likely feel more unstable as a result. But yeah, there's only so much grip that a 30 / 30 downforce car can provide.

Thank you I just won every race.

Lineup was:

Gillet Vertigo Race Car
BMW McLaren F1 GTR Race Car
Ford GT LM Race Car
Chaparral 2D Race Car
Chevrolet Camaro LM Race Car

For all races, driving standards were poor. I needed to switch to your spring rates permanently once I got to Hong Kong. I had to start playing with the gear ratios as well but used yours except the final gear at 2.750 for the final race.
At some point the Gillet was too fast in a straight line and the McLaren too good braking for corners so I started ruining their Qualifying.

I used softs for qualy's, and with medium or hards for the races, mainly the hards except Suzuka from what I remember.

Except the last race at Le Mans. I qualified third as I didn't have a hand on the car at that point I was just trying to get to grips with the cold hards, got infront of the Mclaren which sent itself off before the Porsche curves and the Gillet started sending itself off at the first corner the last 2 laps. I was using as many shortcuts as I could.

 

[Skibiti]

Your best option is likely going to be the RX-7 Type RZ '00. It's tied with the Type R Bathurst R (the trim that mrxbas used to beat GTWC for his "under 25k used car" challenge run) for having the best grip and least turning resistance, but it also has wider tyres than the Bathurst R, leading to better stability and reduced tyre wear. It's the rarest FD in the used dealer though, so you'll need to keep an eye on the late-90's dealership for it.

Compared to other options like the Esprit, Mustang, Griffith 500 and Cerbera Speed 6, it has a favourable 50:50 weight distribution and very even tyre wear, and while 590hp is barely enough to beat GTWC, it means it's quite easy to handle out of corners. Will still need a lot of line-up resetting, and you'll be finishing mid-pack until you get to technical tracks like Hong Kong when you can start building up points.

These are my settings for it, but bear in mind that this was built around sports softs, so you may need to add more camber for better cornering stability. Racing brakes were also added. If the car throws its weight around too much, try lowering the height to 105 / 95.

Shopping List​

oil change
rear wing
R muffler
racing brakes
brake balance controller
port polish
engine balancing
computer
custom transmission
triple clutch
R flywheel
custom LSD
driveshaft
original turbo (from tuner shop)
R intercooler
R suspension
racing hard tyres
weight reduction stage 1 + 2 + 3
rigidity refresh

Settings​

tyres: hard / hard [R2 / R2]

brake balance: 8 / 5

springs: 6.0 / 7.0
ride height: 110 / 100
bounds: 2 / 2
rebounds: 5 / 5
camber: 1.4 / 1.6
toe: 0 / 0
stabilisers: 6 / 7

gears: final to 5.500, then auto to 1, then final to 2.500, move 1st and 2nd gear all the way left, 4th gear on top of the third white line, and 5th and 6th all the way right (I can't open up GT4 right now so I can't give specific gear ratios with racing tyres, but you should be able to eyeball it)

downforce: 30 / 30

LSD I: 30
LSD A: 60
LSD D: 5

ballast: 35kg at 50 balance

ASM [O + U]: 0
TCS: 0 or 1 (set to 1 if you're driving in AT)

i tried this set up and i dont know if its just me but the top speed is really lacking and only gets up to 259km/h, but everything else is completely fine and im happy with the acceleration