What Have You Done Today - (Computer Version)

  • Thread starter tlowr4
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After my first year of learning CS at college, I decided to teach myself how to make an app so I made a super simple DnD dice rolling app!

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Reinstalled DSM on my NAS after it suffered a corruption,
It is not doing a parity check on the 4x4TB drives.

Edit:
Scratch that.
Seems Drive 1 just failed, even though it was passing every test

Looks to be a head failure.
 
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Used Freemake Video Converter to convert some FLAC files I had to MP3 and I took the time to listen to them to make sure they played correctly. Along the way, I noticed some of them had some strange audio problems which upon looking in Audacity I noticed they had some weird gaps of silence in the audio that wasn't there originally. Not the first time it's happened, so I was not too surprised. So I deleted them, converted the FLAC files again with XviD4PSP and spent an obscene amount of time checking them all in Audacity to make sure there were no issues with the audio and everything seems okay. Going to label them and listen to them again later on.

I guess now I know what to use and what not to use when converting sound files.
 
Trying to brute-force my way into getting the PIN I need to unlock some old cheap-o tablet I haven't used in almost five years just to see what I thought was worth saving on it...
 
Well I should be installing 2 case fans here tomorrow.
Given that I was supposed to have them Sunday but due to some error and got refunded.
So I talked with Amazon and they decided oh we'll give you what you ordered for free.
Plus free shipping due to free trial of amazon prime.
Plus Plus and Plus. (If it gets here)
 
Used Freemake Video Converter to convert some FLAC files I had to MP3 and I took the time to listen to them to make sure they played correctly. Along the way, I noticed some of them had some strange audio problems which upon looking in Audacity I noticed they had some weird gaps of silence in the audio that wasn't there originally. Not the first time it's happened, so I was not too surprised. So I deleted them, converted the FLAC files again with XviD4PSP and spent an obscene amount of time checking them all in Audacity to make sure there were no issues with the audio and everything seems okay. Going to label them and listen to them again later on.

I guess now I know what to use and what not to use when converting sound files.

You have audacity, why not use it to convert the FLAC to MP3?
The lame encoder is free to download off the audacity website and it is simple to install.

Audcity also gives you the option to edit the ID3 tags as well.
 
You have audacity, why not use it to convert the FLAC to MP3?
Because many of the FLAC's I have wouldn't even load correctly. I should note I am using an old version of Audacity because I have had some major problems with the latest version. (namely being unable to close the program without task manager)
The lame encoder is free to download off the audacity website and it is simple to install.

Audcity also gives you the option to edit the ID3 tags as well.
Oh I know about the lame encoder, I've been using it for almost a decade now and I'm also aware of the tag editor.

I think the reason I chose to use XviD4PSP was because it could import and export the FLAC's in batches without the issues I spoke of, meanwhile I'd have to export them one by one with Audacity.
 
Because many of the FLAC's I have wouldn't even load correctly. I should note I am using an old version of Audacity because I have had some major problems with the latest version. (namely being unable to close the program without task manager)
Oh I know about the lame encoder, I've been using it for almost a decade now and I'm also aware of the tag editor.

I think the reason I chose to use XviD4PSP was because it could import and export the FLAC's in batches without the issues I spoke of, meanwhile I'd have to export them one by one with Audacity.


Ah, the new audacity can export multiple
Makes scene since you say your using an older version
 
Long story short: we had internet, we no longer have internet, not sure if we'll stay in this flat but want internet while we decide. My solution was to buy a Three 'MyFi' (or MiFi or whatever) 4G router, although because I don't want to be stuck with it if the 4G reception sucks I've ordered it online so I'll have 14 days to return it if it's no good.

I knew there was a reason I left the Ethernet cable I ran into the bedroom for my PC (back when it was a headless game streaming server, it's now next to the TV) where it was "just in case" - now I can put the 4G router near the window which I assume will help the signal. The Asus AC750 I got can continue to be an Ethernet switch/WiFi AP and all will be well.

Speaking of Ethernet cables, do yourselves a favour and avoid flat cables because otherwise when you have to remove a long one, say 20 metres or so, you'll end up with a thing like this to contend with:

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Which is exactly what it looks like; a 20 metre flat cable carefully wrapped around a kitchen roll tube. Forgive the awful picture, my battery was too low to use the flash.

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Unless I've been tree'd, after I make this post we'll be up to 41 in the Computers & Tech forum? #10kindsofjokes
 
So I got the mobile broadband router. Three bars and still only 2Mb/s so it's going back and I guess I'll have to spend the £70 upfront, £40 installation and £37/mo for 50Mb fibre on a rolling contract at least until we've sussed out what our new neighbours are like.

I'll admit I'm tempted to keep the mobile thing as a backup since it has unlimited data, but for £22 the speed just isn't going to cut it for me. Shame, really, and I expect it's either contention or throttling rather than poor signal (as I have three bars which suggests it's not the signal), but... Yeah, that's too much.
 
So I got the mobile broadband router. Three bars and still only 2Mb/s so it's going back and I guess I'll have to spend the £70 upfront, £40 installation and £37/mo for 50Mb fibre on a rolling contract at least until we've sussed out what our new neighbours are like.

I'll admit I'm tempted to keep the mobile thing as a backup since it has unlimited data, but for £22 the speed just isn't going to cut it for me. Shame, really, and I expect it's either contention or throttling rather than poor signal (as I have three bars which suggests it's not the signal), but... Yeah, that's too much.

Most likley too many on the local tower, ask the telco and see if that is the case.
 
Testing it again at 7am and I get 20Mb down and 40(!) up so it's almost definitely contention. Oh well! Not much point in a connection that only works when you don't need it.
 
Testing it again at 7am and I get 20Mb down and 40(!) up so it's almost definitely contention. Oh well! Not much point in a connection that only works when you don't need it.
Network congestion will always ruin speeds...It should suffice for now, I hope?

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I'm trying to pick a video editor to install and I need to update my Hauppauge drivers - the latter keeps artifacting quite badly when I try to record.

I'm looking at Pinnacle Studio and Cyberlink PowerDirector. Does anyone recommend one over the other or even a third option?
 
Network congestion will always ruin speeds...It should suffice for now, I hope?

I've already ordered 50Mb Virgin fibre but will keep the Three box for as long as I can because they can't install it until the Friday after next (because I can't be here until then) which is a heckin' long time to be without internet!
 
I've already ordered 50Mb Virgin fibre but will keep the Three box for as long as I can because they can't install it until the Friday after next (because I can't be here until then) which is a heckin' long time to be without internet!
Ouch. Incidentally, is that gigabit fiber? That cable type makes a good handoff when extending from the building's entry point.
 
@Obelisk it's "only" 50Mb (which is faster than all but one domestic connection I've ever used), but I believe it's fibre to the premises rather than fibre to the cabinet with the last mile on copper. I don't know for sure but the guy on the phone said I don't need a phone line, so I assume that means they install a fibre optic socket? I guess I'll find out but I don't really care so long as I get at least 20Mb.

Maybe it's because it's the weekend and most people are out, but I actually got usable speeds this evening. A few hiccups still, but I streamed a film on Netflix and apart from it running out of buffer once and needing to be refreshed once it was actually OK, it seemed to stream at 1080p with a few dips into lower resolutions. But with that much variance I'm not keen to keep it, at least not as my primary source of home internet. I have been tempted to keep it just because I like the novelty of it but that seems financially dumb when the Virgin connection is almost double what we were paying before.
 
but I believe it's fibre to the premises rather than fibre to the cabinet with the last mile on copper. I don't know for sure but the guy on the phone said I don't need a phone line, so I assume that means they install a fibre optic socket?
Fair enough. So far, everything I've worked with in my few months in telecomms has been fiber to the demarc - with the handoff from the circuit to the router varying on speed. Copper from the circuit to your router makes sense for the speed you're wanting.

Just keep in mind that they might be using the 80% rule (80% of max speed is acceptable) if they're gonna speed-test at your house and that's due to congestion and a variety of other factors.

Don't they throttle video streaming, incidentally?
 
So keyboards.
Mechanical, Membrane or hybrid?

(Some gaming involved but not like no Apex/Fortnite/Overwatch) (Borderlands series)
 
Mechanical all the way, imo. Love the feel of MX Browns. Was quite the upgrade from my 10 year old membrane when I got my mech. :lol:
 
Mechanical all the way, imo. Love the feel of MX Browns. Was quite the upgrade from my 10 year old membrane when I got my mech. :lol:

So I got my new keyboard.
From the reviews on "Verified Purchase"
Stated it was an RGB one.
It was not an RGB.
Told Amazon they issued refund, and will allow me to keep the keyboard also.
I have ordered one that is, and it should be more my liking.
 
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I been considering getting an XBOX One controller. I am kind of figuring that my XBOX 360 may be nearing being all used up and will need to get a newer controller. I love the feel of the XB1 controller. A lot of games I've played have taken advantage of the XB360 controllers. Now, I wonder how much different it could be using the XB1 controller for various games. I prefer wired controllers over wireless ones. I don't think I have the budget for an official controller, so I was looking at some XB1 controllers at Wal-Mart that are cheaper. One XB1 controller I saw said it was compatible for XB1 and Windows 10. It costs about... $19 USD compared to the $49 USD official controllers. I am not serious about getting the new controller right now, though. Just considering at this point.

(If this is not on topic, I'm sorry for posting in this thread. It is PC related for the most part.)
 
Just got our Virgin fibre optic connection installed, first order of business was supposed to be to turn the WiFi on it off but leave all other functions (specifically DHCP) enabled while my Asus AC750 handles the WiFi and Ethernet routing. So I logged in, found the bit that turns the WiFi off but it also, without mentioning it, disables DHCP, so we had two routers, one in AP mode and one in Modem mode, but neither acting as the DHCP server. Obviously that's not ideal as it meant I couldn't do anything, so I did a factory reset on the Asus to see if I could enable DHCP without powering up the modem - nope, outside of AP mode it wants to be the primary point of access, so I put it back in AP mode and did a factory reset on the Virgin router instead.

I guess I could just leave the WiFi on, as much as I'm not one of those people with an EM sensitivity and don't believe it's a health problem, I feel like it's tempting fate to have a WiFi AP within 2 metres of me when I'm on the sofa and within 2 metres when I'm in bed, you know, just in case...

Edit: 2 minutes later, I got into the Virgin router again and just disabled both the 2.4 and 5GHz bands on the WiFi radio and WAN and DHCP are still going. I don't see the point of having two APs in a tiny flat wasting energy when the Asus one was fine, all our devices are already connected to it so why not? Anyway, it's all good now, as you were!

Edit the second: And now I'm addressing my broken USB server. I figured the best way to do this would just be to plug it (it's a Raspberry Pi) into my TV so I can see what's up, mainly because I forgot the password so couldn't SSH into it, but found the 'disk' was full. Rather than work out why I decided to just format it and start again from scratch as it was only running VirtualHere anyway. I've just done all the stuff but found it still wasn't working. Then I remembered I had to add it manually in the first place, so there was never anything wrong with it, it's just that the IP address changed... So now I have to wait for the (Australian) dev to give me a new license key and then it should all be good.

At least one good thing to come of this is I've discovered there's a version of the server optimised for the Pi 3, I think I was using the generic ARM build before. Not that I ever had any trouble with that version, but it's nice to know I'm using a better build now. Also I feel kind of smug that I've found a use for Raspbian Lite.
 
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So after using my keyboard (The one I actually wanted) with brown switches, I was asking the person on why some of the "extra" ones others got was "black" was also confused but realized that it probably was the brown ones that in certain light look black.
However they are also willing to send me some red switches for free.

So good service. :)
 
Actually from last night, I was able to connect wireless to my parents' printer in my house. While we don't have some fancy named network, I was able to connect to that printer, which is WiFi-enabled. I was looking into this as I was thinking about trying a different creative venture in the future. That creative venture I am considering is something like doing greeting cards, calendars, and other printable goods. Though my own all-in-one printer is rather old (I am considering getting a new one), I still use mine mostly for scanning, though I haven't done so lately. I don't think my current printer in my room can print on different kinds of paper. So therefore, I either may try to work with my parents' printer or get my own for my room. I still am fairly pleased to wirelessly connect to the printer in my home's network.
 
My interests are changing in terms of media consumption through Android TV. One of the reasons why I considered Android TV wss to enjoy the Android experience on a TV. It also included the possibilities of game and app development for the Android TV interface. Testament of my Android TV experience is my use of devices like the Google Nexus Player and the Xiaomi Mi Box S. Of late, I feel a mini PC will probably work better. So I have been looking recently at a lot of my options should I consider getting a mini PC to use alongside my main PC. At the moment, I am not considering getting a new computer of any kind- I'm still fairly okay with the (then) entry-level Acer PC I bought back in 2014 or so. Android TV is still fairly solid and is a thing, but it is so limited as to what you can really do with it to enjoy development and use. Because of a mostly weak base with not too many items available, I feel it isn't as profitable or as interesting to develop for it anymore. And so, I am looking down the mini PC route to replace my Android TV devices.

Another reason I considered mini PCs is because I doubt I have the finances to play a few of today's games on a gaming laptop. This also applies to many older games released within the past five years that still have some fairly lofty requirements to play. A number of people have mostly voted against having a mini PC for any serious gaming. However, there may be some incentive for mini PC gaming even if just to have it to play certain games on a more capable system. Before I went with my current PC, I did have experience in installing hardware to my former HP computer ranging from RAM modules to some extra PC cards. I have no experience with my current PC and adding hardware to it. If I could, I could bump up the RAM to 8GB (I currently have a stock 4GB RAM module) and look into a more capable processor.

These are all still considerations at this point.
 
Compiling stuff to dump onto the microSD card that's going into my replacement phone I'm getting next paycheck, in total 151 GB of content on the one in my current phone, the considerable majority of which is a single TV series. Springing for a 512 GB one which is the max capacity new phone can take.
 
I survived a scare. My PC monitor had screen tearing with some browsing and with some viewing of content. The one thing I fear is that the screen tearing will lead to me having to restart the computer. It's something I fear using my Intel HD Graphics settings, though I usually can never access disabling VSync. Thankfully this time around when my main PC monitor had screen tear, my other monitor (which is my HDTV) that had the display copied was enough for me to complete my operation. The main monitor then returned to working just fine. So I avoided having to unnecessarily restart my PC so I could have my monitor display everything again.

Some programs and some features result in me seeing the screen tear at times. I was using the Brave Browser watching a YouTube video. Chrome and Chrome-based browsers (such as Brave) have had the problem of screen tearing at times when watching videos. I use Affinity Photo and Affinity Designer, and in some art operations, the screen tears. That's why I don't use such programs with regularity. Maybe if there was a way I can prevent screen tearing to where my screen doesn't turn blank, I wouldn't have this problem. But other than that, I'm glad I didn't have to restart my PC with the duplicated display on my HDTV.
 
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