What Have You Done Today - (Computer Version)

  • Thread starter tlowr4
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No. It's not the stock.
It's the original one back on the FX 8350 (When bundled)
And I want to use that with the Ryzen 5, but it appears that if I use a low pro ram it looks like I could get by with it. (As per checking right now but can confirm tomorrow when I do the swap with the boards and etc. and hopefully no magic smoke)
Ahh, I see. From what I am reading about the cooler, it might be too big.
Is there a reason you aren't using the stock fan? In my experience, they are really good if you aren't overclocking. My 2600x doesnt even hit 70°c under sustained gaming loads using the stock cooler and all my RAM fits without issue, if a little snug by the heatsink. And my system is very quite.
 
I just did a quick test.
It seems like without a heatsink it will fit.
The one stick that has a heatsink is also a high profile stick and that would not.

So once I get into further testing and doing the build tomorrow afternoon I will quick check a low profile ram heatsink into DIMM 4 and see how it works before committing to having to use stock fan or not.
As the ram I have is considered low profile so I will have to test.

The 2600x has a Spire stock.
The 3600 has a Stealth stock.

Edit:

I have fully did the test again and upgrade.
I can confirm that using a low profile ram will work with the cpu heatsink.

So once everything works like it should I will be all happy and joyful.
 
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Saw a spare SSD lying around, so I decided to repurpose it as a dedicated games drive.
IMG_20200221_195340.jpg


Mounted to the rear of the motherboard tray with Blutack cause it didn't fit inside the storage bay. :lol:

So now I have 2X500GB SSD's and one 1TB HDD. Might have to swap out the HDD for a bigger model though, seeing as it's also nearly full...
 
Get out some tin snips and just away at the area that is preventing clearance.
Thermal losses will be minimal.
 
I was having fun with a HTPC that I build for a friend's parents, who are both retired now, back in 2013 with Windows 7. After almost 7 years, the case fan started making noise. Blew out all the dust out that accumulated in 7 years. Plugged everything back in, so they could watch TV while I went and bought a fan. Got a 80mm fan and replaced the case fan, hooked everything back up and is much quieter now. Later my friend's parents called and said they had no TV Signal, that's hooked up through a CableCard. So I go to see, if maybe the cable adapter cable possible broke. It pulls out of the sleeve, which could cause the issue, but don't have another cable to know for sure. It's one of these cables.

While I was searching for a TV Signal, it tells me later that it can't update PlayReady, so it won't let them watch DRM Channels. So now, it's really :banghead: I tried a couple solutions, back from 2011, but no luck. This time, it was a little after 10, after working on it for 3-4 hours, and called it a night. There are a couple of more solutions I can try, but after messing with it, I'm still hoping thae CableCard still activated from Charter's end. Also, while trying out the solutions to get PlayReady working, and setting up the CableCard. Apparently WMC can't see the tuners, but when I manually set it up, it knows there are 6 tuners on the card, but says Refresh for each tuner. So know I'm really 🤬 :banghead::banghead:🤬. I'll stop by tomorrow and see what else I can do. It just sucks as the computer is getting slower, and their internet is only 3Megs, so I really need to have patience when doing stuff.

I did change the guide over to EPG123 and Schedules Direct for them, which works pretty slick over the old WMC Guide. But part of me just wishes to have them ditch WMC all together, as Windows 7 support is done, and get a DVR box from Charter. They do have one for the second TV though.
 
Finally got around to ordering a proper PC case, Phantek.
Will post pics of the swap when it arrives next week.
 
Get out some tin snips and just away at the area that is preventing clearance.
Thermal losses will be minimal.
It's mainly due to the positioning of the drive bays and the ridiculously narrow amount of clearance for cables on the rear of the case. I probably could have put it with my other drives, but I was too lazy to redo the cabling in that section.

Didn't really want to cut out parts of the rear panel either. :lol:
 
It's mainly due to the positioning of the drive bays and the ridiculously narrow amount of clearance for cables on the rear of the case. I probably could have put it with my other drives, but I was too lazy to redo the cabling in that section.

Didn't really want to cut out parts of the rear panel either. :lol:

PC builders sometimes have to cut the chassis.
I remember having to cut my Lian li A77F so the 280mm radiator could be mounted at the top.
 
PC builders sometimes have to cut the chassis.
I remember having to cut my Lian li A77F so the 280mm radiator could be mounted at the top.
Yeah nah I like keeping my case in one piece. :lol:

A mate of mine basically tore apart his case in order to maximise airflow. Having said that, he has 50% less case to get in the way of airflow. :lol:
 
So I had a weird thing happen.
I get a System thread exception BSOD.
All my drivers are up to date.
After doing some checks,
Said it could be GPU or RAM.
ran the RAM diagnostics and came back with errors.
Did some more testing.

It appears I got the errors running XMP
Turned off XMP and ran the test, no errors.
So currently running 3000Mhz without XMP.

Any idea why I would have that?
 
So I had a weird thing happen.
I get a System thread exception BSOD.
All my drivers are up to date.
After doing some checks,
Said it could be GPU or RAM.
ran the RAM diagnostics and came back with errors.
Did some more testing.

It appears I got the errors running XMP
Turned off XMP and ran the test, no errors.
So currently running 3000Mhz without XMP.

Any idea why I would have that?

Check RAM Compatibility Vendor List on the motherboard website
I would also run a test with Memtest86+
 
Check RAM Compatibility Vendor List on the motherboard website
I would also run a test with Memtest86+

Memtest didn't show any errors.
I looked at my list there are few.
https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B450-AORUS-M-rev-10/support#support-doc
Looked through and the first one AMD Matisse CPU has (CMK16GX4M2B3200C16)
Others don't and I have no idea on what the others are.

Edit:
Memtest without XMP nets 0 errors at 3000Mhz.
Memtest with XMP nets errors of over 2k at 3200mhz.

I am guessing a timing issue is giving me the fits.
 
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Are there multiple XMP profiles?

Also check the timings.
See if the timings for the XMP profiles are correct.
Few other searches say that at times the timing data is not transferred correctly off the SOP8 chip.
Otherwise you lost the silicon lotto and you lost hard.
 
Are there multiple XMP profiles?

Also check the timings.
See if the timings for the XMP profiles are correct.
Few other searches say that at times the timing data is not transferred correctly off the SOP8 chip.
Otherwise you lost the silicon lotto and you lost hard.

Just one profile.
It looks like the timing is what is said to be when in XMP but if running the DRAM calculator it appears off.

So either
A, I need to input all from what should be.
B, Let it be on 3000Mhz without XMP

(I sent a message to Gigabyte to see if it's just didn't work or something else)
 
Replaced my 10 Year Old 21.5” Asus monitor with a Spectre 22” Monitor. Both were 1080p monitors, but I mainly did it for weight for my GTOmega Single Monitor Stand . I was pushing their recommenced weight for the stand. Also wanted the monitor to sleep when my PC was off. That way I wouldn’t have to physically press the power button, when it’s tucked behind my 49” monitor, because laziness, lol. Now I'll give my old Asus monitor to my nephew.

028029F8-19C5-48EE-B551-C03DDBF02EA3.jpeg
 
Still waiting on Gigabyte's response to XMP (without manually changing timings)
Ordered another 2x8GB
Have a rtx 2060 on wishlist

Probably will be all set come June. :lol:

Edit:
I have 2 rtx 2060 in my list.
The Asus TUF 2060 (measuring 8")
The Asus Phoenix 2060 (Measuring 7")

Leaning towards the Phoenix due to smaller, but TUF has twin fans.
So don't actually know which way to go.
Both are larger than the 1050 ti SC I have which is at 5.7"

Any idea on maybe which one of those 2?
 
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Still waiting on Gigabyte's response to XMP (without manually changing timings)
Ordered another 2x8GB
Have a rtx 2060 on wishlist

Probably will be all set come June. :lol:

Edit:
I have 2 rtx 2060 in my list.
The Asus TUF 2060 (measuring 8")
The Asus Phoenix 2060 (Measuring 7")

Leaning towards the Phoenix due to smaller, but TUF has twin fans.
So don't actually know which way to go.
Both are larger than the 1050 ti SC I have which is at 5.7"

Any idea on maybe which one of those 2?
https://versus.com/en/asus-phoenix-geforce-rtx-2060-vs-asus-tuf-geforce-rtx-2060-gaming
the difference is so slight, I'd go with the phoenix for the cheaper price
 
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Edit: Does windows see GB in numbers or decimal?
As in 1 GB = 1,000 or 1 GB = 1,024?

Originally 1kB, 1MB and 1GB were 1,024.
Hard drive manufactures then started using metric based units to denote kB, MB, GB and the units changed.
One is Metric based and one is binary based

1,000 bytes=1kB, 1,000kB=1MB, 1,000MB=1GB, 1,000GB=1TB
Linux and Mac measure files using these units.

1,024 bytes=1kiB, 1,024kB=1MiB, 1,024MB=1GiB, 1,024GB=1TiB
Note the i
The units are kibibytes, Mebibytes, Gibibytes and Tebibytes.

Windows uses 1,024 but uses the old units for some stupid reason.

Windows should just start using metric to denote files sizes.
It wont confuse anyone or they should start using the proper units which may confuse people.
 
I've been trying to figure out why the "Smart Fan Control" software for my Aorus motherboard isn't reporting the data from the fluid temperature sensor. HWINFO64 is reading the sensor just fine but SIV can't see it, for some reason.

I'm also not happy with my GPU temps (65 deg at 100% load in a watercooled system) so I've bought some Kryonaut Thermal Grizzly, and I'm going to re-seat the GPU waterblock when I get a spare couple of hours.
 
Not happy with 65° at full load? Have you considered phase change cooling? Cause even with liquid cooling, you're not going to get much cooler unless you are dumping ice into the reservoir.
 
So now I am playing which fan goes where. :lol:
I can have up to 7 case fans.
Right now I have 2 in the front bringing in air.
One in back putting it out.
One on side close to where the CPU fan is blowing out.

I have 2 fans coming as I will replace one.
The side one I am replacing and I can have another side below that one in which I am thinking of sucking in air?
So it would be
Top -> blow
Bottom -> Suck.

I can have 2 on top but with how they are I don't believe they'll fit with the way I want it too.
 
Went ahead and took the laptop to the repair shop yesterday and just told them to fix the problem with the battery and put Windows 10 on it if possible. Hopefully it's not going to set me back too much or I might have to throw in the towel and look at a refurbished one.
 
Not happy with 65° at full load? Have you considered phase change cooling? Cause even with liquid cooling, you're not going to get much cooler unless you are dumping ice into the reservoir.

It's without the card being overclocked, so I want to make sure that I have the best thermal contact possible before stressing the card more. I've been playing with Afterburner and it looks as if I might be power-limited, so it could be that my card isn't thermally-limited anyway.
 
It's without the card being overclocked, so I want to make sure that I have the best thermal contact possible before stressing the card more. I've been playing with Afterburner and it looks as if I might be power-limited, so it could be that my card isn't thermally-limited anyway.
How is you cooling system setup? What size radiator are you running and what volume is your pump able to maintain?
 
It's without the card being overclocked, so I want to make sure that I have the best thermal contact possible before stressing the card more. I've been playing with Afterburner and it looks as if I might be power-limited, so it could be that my card isn't thermally-limited anyway.

Only thing that could improve upon the temperatures is using liquid metal thermal compounds.
But this will only give a 1°C~2°C improvement at best.

Lapping the cooling block might help another 1°C

But even my GTX1080 which is water cooled gets to 60°C
 
Had an early spring cleaning of my pc, monitors and consoles.

Took everything apart, used an air compressor to get rid of dust and then put everything back together. Cleaned up my computer desk to fit the new XXL mouse mat, with a new mouse aswell.

All in all a very long day, but well worth it in the end. :bowdown:
 
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