What should be my first car, based off of my wants/needs?

  • Thread starter Thread starter MiuraSV777
  • 229 comments
  • 15,208 views
ImaRobot
I disagree with you. There are plenty of lovely sounds that come from s2000's, current Si's, and 8th Gen Si's. My favorite would be the 2001 Integra Type-R usdm or other wise. Hell I've even heard EG's that sounds damn fine.

Because of the fact that they are cheap to buy you are going to run into alot more people that half ass everything, rather then people that are actual enthusiast and get things done right.
Click to expand...

I don't like the sound of V6's in general except for very few. I prefer the sound of a large displacement V8. I think those you listed are quite annoying in my opinion.
 
White & Nerdy
Peaky = produces very little horsepower/torque except in one small area of the rev range, usually high RPM. A common trait of small four cylinder engines, and turbo engines in general (in the latter case, turbo lag is often the culprit, and may also cause problems at higher RPM if you lift of the throttle momentarily for whatever reason). Many Hondas, for example, lack any sort of power or torque until VTEC kicks in (because of low displacement and conservative, "refined" low-mid RPM tuning).
Click to expand...

While you are correct about the part that full power doesn't come until Vtec crossover, it doesn't really matter any other time besides first gear, and that's only a few seconds at that. Ever single time you shift gears you fall back into that power band and still have peak power( at least that's how it was in my fg2.) 2000 Rpms with vtec isn't exactly a small area of Rpms.

Tuning any car is expensive in general so that point is moot. Last I checked though I could have got flash pro for 500 not counting the amount it would cost to tune per hour. Don't know the full details of it but It drops te vtec crossover from 6000rpms to 4500(I think) Rpms. Allowing you to have full power waaay sooner.
 
ImaRobot
While you are correct about the part that full power doesn't come until Vtec crossover, it doesn't really matter any other time besides first gear, and that's only a few seconds at that. Ever single time you shift gears you fall back into that power band and still have peak power( at least that's how it was in my fg2.) 2000 Rpms with vtec isn't exactly a small area of Rpms.

Tuning any car is expensive in general so that point is moot. Last I checked though I could have got flash pro for 500 not counting the amount it would cost to tune per hour. Don't know the full details of it but It drops te vtec crossover from 6000rpms to 4500(I think) Rpms. Allowing you to have full power waaay sooner.
Click to expand...

But the important question is, why bother when so many other cars can give full power much lower in the range or even just off idle, thus making everything easier? It's not just power, it's where that power is.
 
White & Nerdy
It's not just power, it's where that power is.
Click to expand...
You said it yourself.

Every cars area of peak power is different, some come sooner and some come later. Every single engine is different. Just because yours comes in sooner doesn't mean it's going I stay 100% if you fall out of your power range
 
White & Nerdy
True, though they all sound like farts to me. Also, VTEC = peaky without expensive tuning.
Click to expand...
This & the rest of your posts coming from the owner of an old Cavalier? What experience do you have in other cars to br spouting such nonsense again?
 
ImaRobot
You said it yourself.

Every cars area of peak power is different, some come sooner and some come later. Every single engine is different. Just because yours comes in sooner doesn't mean it's going I stay 100% if you fall out of your power range
Click to expand...

I just happen to think 1500-5500 RPM is a far more useful range than 6000-8000? RPM.

McLaren
This & the rest of your posts coming from the owner of an old Cavalier? What experience do you have in other cars to br spouting such nonsense again?
Click to expand...

V6 Cavalier, so not exactly fart-like. Also not tractor-like, that's the 3.8 you're thinking of.
 
White & Nerdy
I just happen to think 1500-5500 RPM is a far more useful range than 6000-8000? RPM.
Click to expand...
Give 1 area of the power band a 4,000 range & claim it's better than that of a 2,000 range in which most cars don't even rev to. :rolleyes:
V6 Cavalier, so not exactly fart-like. Also not tractor-like, that's the 3.8 you're thinking of.
Click to expand...
This is what you own right?



These sound like a 4-banger Civic except it's attempting to portray a muscle car sound to it as well; in other words, crap.
 
Last edited:
McLaren
Give 1 area of the power band a 4,000 range & claim it's better than that of a 2,000 range in which most cars don't even rev to. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Exactly my point. That stupid old JV6 will pull just about anywhere so you can cruise around in high gears and shift less in general. Smaller, VVT-reliant engines would have to be revved HARD to do anything useful.
 
White & Nerdy
Exactly my point. That stupid old JV6 will pull just about anywhere so you can cruise around in high gears and shift less in general. Smaller, VVT-reliant engines would have to be revved HARD to do anything useful.
Click to expand...
Wrong, wrong, wrong. As usual.
 
White & Nerdy
Exactly my point. That stupid old JV6 will pull just about anywhere so you can cruise around in high gears and shift less in general. Smaller, VVT-reliant engines would have to be revved HARD to do anything useful.
Click to expand...

It's not hard to tell you've had 0 hands on experience with the cars your down talking. You act as if these cars have zero power until vtec crossover.

I'll use the gsr as an example since its the same generation as your super duper v6. Before vtec crosses over that car will still have more power at disposal then your v6 that has peak power "from the get go"
 
ImaRobot
It's not hard to tell you've had 0 hands on experience with the cars your down talking. You act as if these cars have zero power until vtec crossover.
Click to expand...

Because most of them do, including the Civics that were originally brought up.

I'll use the gsr as an example since its the same generation as your super duper v6. Before vtec crosses over that car will still have more power at disposal then your v6 that has peak power "from the get go"
Click to expand...

Got a chart on that? I doubt it can equal the V6 on off-idle torque.
 
McLaren
And so what if it does? A high-end powerband has its own strong advantages as well.
Click to expand...

In an all-out track situation, maybe, but in most street driving situations (even very spirited), it's probably better to have the power down lower.
 
White & Nerdy
Because most of them do, including the Civics that were originally brought up.



Got a chart on that? I doubt it can equal the V6 on off-idle torque.
Click to expand...

Oh you are right about the torque, but man looking at a dyno sheet for your car shows me that your peak torque drop likes a rock after 3,500 Rpms while your hp generally stays flat. This first pic is of your v6 cav:
http://www.v6z24.com/jbodyforum/download,id,24521.html

Re edit- seems to be a 3.1 v6 from what I can gather.

Then here's the b17 gsr
dyno-hptorque.jpg


Both cars are i/h/e. At 5000 rpm the cars are about the same in power but after first gear that's not going to matter for the integra cus it'll never drop under 6000 Rpms after that, when you shift in the cav you'll be losing power every time.


EDIT: wait so your talking about driving on the street? In that case nothing is valid and it doesn't matter if your car has power or not because speed limits are under 40 mph and that's being generous.
 
Last edited:
The 3800 sounds much better than the X Engine.



That reminds me. How much are the 2000-ish Grand Prixs in the Michigan area? That wouldn't be a bad option for a first car, so long as you get one that wasn't abused to hell.
 
Last edited:
White & Nerdy
If YT is the barometer, that's exactly backwards.
Click to expand...

Even the 2.4L Turbo Diesel in my Hilux Surf sounds better than a V6 Cavalier. And it makes more torque.
 
White & Nerdy
In an all-out track situation, maybe, but in most street driving situations (even very spirited), it's probably better to have the power down lower.
Click to expand...
It's not actually unless you spend your entire time taking off from a dead stop/school zone speeds....
 
Just get anything you can afford, you'll think it's a race car, but it won't be a race car, and so as long as you don't tell anyone that you think it's a race car, everyone will be happy.

Your range is $2000 to $4000, and it's probably going to need a $1000 worth of work, if you're lucky. Unless you suddenly have a job that pays you $700-1000 a week (never mind whatever other expenses you might have), your income probably isn't going to be taking care of go-faster bits to make it quicker and sportier.

That's not to say you can't, but unless you want to tinker and work with cars with all your spare time (maybe it's your thing), you're better off with cheap-and-reliable for your first car. An Audi TT is far from either, and you might as well buy a GTI for less money and less headaches (which isn't saying much).
 
Toronado
That reminds me. How much are the 2000-ish grand prixs in the michigan area? That wouldn't be a bad option for a first car, so long as you get one that wasn't abused to hell.
Click to expand...

They're cheap and numerous here. You can get a 2007 with around 100,000 miles on it for about $8,000 and they get cheaper the older you go. You can even snag a GTP for about $7,000 in fairly good shape.
 
Could we get back on topic with the honda engines, ect?

Both of your engines work, which is pretty much all that matters 👍
 
My own personal opinion is to not go with a convertible, especially not something older. You'll likely be putting more money in it than it's worth. I don't think you've said anything about getting one, but just in case you were thinking about it, I thought I'd say that.

Anyways, look at this 2005 VW Jetta, it's (I think) in your general area, has a manual transmission, reliable. It's a little over your price range ($4,995), so do what you want with the suggestion (:lol:) but I thought it might help? I'm not expert on these VW's, so someone please correct me if this is a terrible car, but I think it's pretty good.
 
xXKingJoshXx
My own personal opinion is to not go with a convertible, especially not something older. You'll likely be putting more money in it than it's worth. I don't think you've said anything about getting one, but just in case you were thinking about it, I thought I'd say that.

Anyways, look at this 2005 VW Jetta, it's (I think) in your general area, has a manual transmission, reliable. It's a little over your price range ($4,995), so do what you want with the suggestion (:lol:) but I thought it might help? I'm not expert on these VW's, so someone please correct me if this is a terrible car, but I think it's pretty good.
Click to expand...

It also has two hundred thousand miles on it.
 
Yes, and?

Edit: Here's a 2002 Dodge Neon R/T, just over 100,000 miles and it's within your price range. Although you run the risk of it being beat to death, but who knows? Also, like with the Jetta, I know nothing about these cars, but I see tons of them so they must be at least somewhat reliable.

Also, if you click to go back to results on the link I gave, there's a really low mileage Neon 3 or 4 cars down from the R/T, but it's only an EX.
 
Last edited:
That's a ton of miles for a car, and VW's aren't exactly known for not having major electrical problems. For the money he could get something with lower miles on it and probably more features just by getting something domestic.

And with Neon's there's always the head gasket that likes to spontaneously let go at the worse times...and this is the voice of experience talking :lol:
 
Just to help me while I'm researching, what would you guys consider reasonable mileage? I know not all cars with 200,000+ aren't very good, but I know of a lot of people with 200,000-500,000 mile vehicles which is why I thought maybe it would be ok. You're not exactly going to be able to find many sub 100,000 mile cars under $4,000 that haven't been wrecked or have some major problem with it.


Miura, are you looking for a car that is in perfect running condition or would you be willing to say (for example) buy a $2,500 car and put $500-$1000 into it? Although that might not be worth the trouble? 💡

Joey D
And with Neon's there's always the head gasket that likes to spontaneously let go at the worse times...and this is the voice of experience talking :lol:
Click to expand...

:lol: Sounds fun. Seriously though, thanks for confirming, because as I said I don't know much about cars like these. :lol:





Here's another suggestion, (1998 Honda Civic DX) and I looked at the reviews for it. Most (95%) praised its reliability, how good of a first car it is, and how efficient it is. It has mixed reviews on its speed/fun factor, some are saying it's the most fun car out there and nothing can beat it, and some are saying it's extremely boring (but still point out it's reliable.) It's well within your budget. To me, it looks like its been maintained well, has 142,000 miles (not really that much if you think about it, assuming its been maintained well and taken care of). To me, it just looks like the biggest problem is the color.

:dunce: Just realized it's in Ohio, but just a few miles south of the Michigan-Ohio border, but I don't know how far you're willing to go.
 
Last edited:
xXKingJoshXx
Just to help me while I'm researching, what would you guys consider reasonable mileage? I know not all cars with 200,000+ aren't very good, but I know of a lot of people with 200,000-500,000 mile vehicles which is why I thought maybe it would be ok.
Click to expand...

By the upper end of that sort of mileage, maintenance is everything.

Over in the US higher mileages seem the norm - it's rare to see anything with over 200K in the UK, but over 100K is common and generally okay.

Personally, I'd not touch something with 500K with a bargepole, unless either me or someone I knew had been the person who'd put that 500K on it, so I could completely verify how well looked-after it had been.

500K (or 2.9 million miles) of impeccable maintenance is better than 100K of someone forgetting oil changes and driving like an arse.

To be honest, if a car with 500K on it is still running and doesn't look like too much of a wreck, then it'll probably continue running too.
 
Back