What's your most expensive worst car?

  • Thread starter Bullwinkle
  • 108 comments
  • 13,608 views
Just off topic but do you by any chance have the Mclaren F1 GTR and the Standard Road legal one by any chance Bullwinkle (or anyone else reading)?

I have 20 million credits put aside for the road version but the GTR has shown up and I'm so tempted to buy it but I really want the other more expensive one and I don't wanna drop 10 million and that one becomes available...I'll get to the point, if you have both and could only keep one which would it be?

Maybe best off starting a new thread with this, although I guess not many people have both so probably pointless?
Do you mean the short tail one in the LCD right now? Yes, I got that one and I loved it the first time out. I’ve tuned it a little bit, but it really didn’t need much. I’m using it in some Gr.3 events and am having a blast!
 
Any stock ferrari

Not by a long shot. The F30 and 458s are two of my favorite cars in the game, the F12 and F8 are great too, totally stock on SH tires. They have wonderful balance and are poseable however you want. You definitely can't just mash the throttle on them whenever you want, but they are fantastic cars regardless.

Ferrari FXX K, horrible to drive. You’d think a track day car like that would have some grip.

I thought the FXX K was awesome to drive, and one of the more "realistic" cars with the way it reacts on slicks. Very bouncy and springy on its sidewalls. It's not easy to drive, but it's not anywhere near impossible, and it's crazy fast. If you give it some time, it really is an excellent thing.

As for the F12...

The BMW Gr.3 car is awful, so is F12 Berlinetta...no matter what I tweak those things are undriveable...
The F12, once again totally stock on SH, is insanely fun to drive, you just have to be very careful with the throttle. The only thing I would say is lacking on it is brakes, you need to give a LOT of room for braking, partly because it's so insanely fast. Once you get it in your head that you can only go full throttle when you're absolutely planted, the thing is a super poseable murder machine that can take down much bigger foes. The thing is with these sensitive Ferraris, is that this leads to them doing anything you want when you get the hang of how to drive them. You can choose under or oversteer whenever you want, or keep them grippy by learning to stay below their limits.

All these are driven ABS only by the way. You don't need TCS, just to learn how to manage throttle, like with any car. Once you do, all these Ferraris are amazing.

Now, the BMW GR3 I get. It's a big fat pig, and takes SO MUCH steering input (turning WAY into understeer) to make it comply, then you counter that with insane snap when the turbos kick off, and it's a handful in anything slow. At speed it's a total brute, and the downforce helps to keep it settled, but it's still never really comfortable. There are many GR3 cars that don't fight you the whole time, and that makes the BMW a distant choice for me.

The Ford GT was flat out broken the last time I tried it, but I haven't gone back to it since 1.13, so I need to give it another shot.
 
Last edited:
I couldnt even tell you... all I do in this game is use the tomahawk in tokyo to get credits and buy cars...I dont even use them I just collect really so I can get every car in the game... But the lame part of the game is not being able to use any car in any race... most of my cars I have to use in arcade mode just to use them
 
Last edited:
I couldnt even tell you... all I do in this game is use the tomahawk in tokyo to get credits and buy cars...I dont even use them I just collect really so I can get every car in the game... But the lame part of the game is not being able to use any car in any race... most of my cars I have to use in arcade mode just to use them
Exactly the same over here :crazy:
 
Mine: the McLaren P1 GTR '16. At $3.6 million it's not even close. And it's not even close to drivable either. I got that $1m bonus a couple weeks ago, and when I finished the café I got another $1m so I thought, what the heck? I saw the 986 HP/607.5 torque for under 800 PP stock and thought it was going to be my sleeper car for all the 800 events. Boy was I wrong. I feel like such a sucker.

I spent an entire day Saturday tuning it for the track at Catalunya but I can't keep it in the race. (Side note, what's the deal with tuning the car perfectly in Time Trials only to have it behave totally differently on race day? Seriously, any insight here?)

The car had an even worse time at Maggiore, slipping around like I was on ice. And I literally went all-four-tires-off-the-ground airborne on that huge drop to that banked hairpin. I nearly landed on the poor guy in front of me!

I'm so frustrated. The only car I have worse is the Ford GT LM Spec II Test Car which, for some reason I have two of. But they don't bother me as much because I got them both in the roulette somehow. The McLaren is just such an ugly mistake and now I'm stuck with it. What an expensive paperweight, although it probably would slip right off the paper too, so scratch that idea . . . .

So, what other lemons are out there to avoid? What was your biggest most expensive and disappointing mistake of a purchase?
Initial torque 5
Acceleration sensitivity 5
Brakes 60

Corvette Stingray Racer Concept.

Even on racing tyres, it always wants to skid about.
Add weight/ballast and make it a 50/50 or 47:53 max. Keep the body height straight 10 difference max. Make the suspension stiffer

Buggati VGT , I mean wtf is up with the DRS ??? Route X and the flipping flap thing keeps opening and closing , tried holding the overtake button and it does nothing , car is a goddamm turd .
I have a tune do you want it ? It can do 8 laps without a pit on the 800pp sargendea
 
To be honest, I find all the ancient legendary cars' handling pretty bad… and they each cost 20 million credits, so…
 
Last edited:
Probably my Fiat 500. I had the gall to expect a higher level of performance than it gave me after fully modifying it.

Everything else I’ve spent credits on has been worth the money for what I wanted to use it for.
 
Add weight/ballast and make it a 50/50 or 47:53 max. Keep the body height straight 10 difference max. Make the suspension stiffer
Will try that for the Vette at Laguna. Any thoughts on the 20M Shelby Daytona? Its hard to drive on the shorter circuits .
 
Acceleration 5
Torque 5
Braking 60. This car can win the 700pp Le Mans have wet tyres

Probably my Fiat 500. I had the gall to expect a higher level of performance than it gave me after fully modifying it.

Everything else I’ve spent credits on has been worth the money for what I wanted to use it for.
I have tunes for all the classic cars
 

Attachments

  • F5A0EA31-F100-44D3-96D6-97CF03FF96D0.jpeg
    F5A0EA31-F100-44D3-96D6-97CF03FF96D0.jpeg
    164.7 KB · Views: 23
  • 6AFB11A3-414B-4E6A-9702-9B2BEF9FF713.jpeg
    6AFB11A3-414B-4E6A-9702-9B2BEF9FF713.jpeg
    158.6 KB · Views: 23
  • 1A513DC0-F1D3-49A4-8AAD-CE6E17D65EE3.jpeg
    1A513DC0-F1D3-49A4-8AAD-CE6E17D65EE3.jpeg
    148.9 KB · Views: 23
Acceleration 5
Torque 5
Braking 60. This car can win the 700pp Le Mans have wet tyres


I have tunes for all the classic cars
Please send them to me. Thanks again!

Your tune for the 20M Shelby Daytona is a dream to drive at Lemans 700pp (TC-1 in the rain, 2 stops, thirsty girl) and I've lapped the field a few times in only for races. Will never do Tokyo again!!
Much rather put these old cars to work. Ferrari '67 330, '61 250 GT and Alpine A220 could be fun.
 
LOL, suggesting people drop their LSD to 5 just to have a driveable car. LOL, do you guys understand what an LSD dropped to 5 does?

Tune your transmission first. Suspension second. Last thing you should do is lower the LSD.

Your end goal should be to have the LSD as high as you can handle and to control your throttle coming out of curves. Never start your tuning with the LSD.
 
Last edited:
LOL, suggesting people drop their LCD to 5 just to have a driveable car. LOL, do you guys understand what an LCD dropped to 5 does?

Tune your transmission first. Suspension second. Last thing you should do is lower the LCD.

Your end goal should be to have the LCD as high as you can handle and to control your throttle coming out of curves. Never start your tuning with the LCD.
What does the Liquid Crystal Display have to do with driveability? 🙃
 
Please send them to me. Thanks again!

Your tune for the 20M Shelby Daytona is a dream to drive at Lemans 700pp (TC-1 in the rain, 2 stops, thirsty girl) and I've lapped the field a few times in only for races. Will never do Tokyo again!!
Much rather put these old cars to work. Ferrari '67 330, '61 250 GT and Alpine A220 could be fun.
The Ferrari 330 is amazing v12! 192mph
 
Please send them to me. Thanks again!

Your tune for the 20M Shelby Daytona is a dream to drive at Lemans 700pp (TC-1 in the rain, 2 stops, thirsty girl) and I've lapped the field a few times in only for races. Will never do Tokyo again!!
Much rather put these old cars to work. Ferrari '67 330, '61 250 GT and Alpine A220 could be fun.
I’ve tuned every classic car to there max mph!
 
LOL, suggesting people drop their LSD to 5 just to have a driveable car. LOL, do you guys understand what an LSD dropped to 5 does?

Tune your transmission first. Suspension second. Last thing you should do is lower the LSD.

Your end goal should be to have the LSD as high as you can handle and to control your throttle coming out of curves. Never start your tuning with the LSD.
Initial torque 5
Acceleration sensitivity 5
Brakes 60


Add weight/ballast and make it a 50/50 or 47:53 max. Keep the body height straight 10 difference max. Make the suspension stiffer


I have a tune do you want it ? It can do 8 laps without a pit on the 800pp sargendea
 

Attachments

  • 3933EAAB-EEAD-4C36-B486-E25D4B5C641B.jpeg
    3933EAAB-EEAD-4C36-B486-E25D4B5C641B.jpeg
    150.2 KB · Views: 23
Chaparral 2J. Fun to drive, but where? Needs more eligible events to get some of that 2.5M back. Same goes for all the Tuned/race cars. Too few places to go that don't require too much of my time and playing pit stop gas and go with guess the weather tire changes.
 
LOL, suggesting people drop their LSD to 5 just to have a driveable car. LOL, do you guys understand what an LSD dropped to 5 does?

Tune your transmission first. Suspension second. Last thing you should do is lower the LSD.

Your end goal should be to have the LSD as high as you can handle and to control your throttle coming out of curves. Never start your tuning with the LSD.
Sure, some of us know what a low-sprung or low tension LSD acts like. An open diff. But this isn't real life, and it's clear there are many things in GT7 that don't even come close to replicating when it comes to the way real life chassis changes affect car handling.

Not only does initial torque at just about anything over 5 lead to almost instant lock up, there's an unusual trait in 7 where the cars seem to keep rear wheel inertia up even when the throttle is dropped, leading to sometimes uncatchable oversteer. This is especially prevalent in older cars in my experience. I don't know which metric makes this happen, whether it's braking torque, accel torque, or what, but with initial torque I always start at 5, then work my way up until I can have a nice balance of oversteer when needed to change car attitude.

My real life car has a very tight diff in it, and it just doesn't behave in a way that GT7 is representative of. It doesn't wildly back itself into corners or have unforgiving oversteer in any situation, whether it be track or street, but the in game RX7 tuned to a similar level is a chore to drive with pretty much any high LSD settings, and an FD in real life is almost never a chore to balance. It's very known for it's even and beautiful chassis balance. GT7 does not replicate this well.

I love GT7, but the tuning aspects of it are especially strange, and do not work like they do in real life. This goes for much more than just LSD settings.

In the game, low LSD settings usually leads to a easier to drive car that isn't so twitchy. This is something that many people and prominent sim racers online or YT have found as well, so people have been inclined to do it, and it has been proven to work.

Tune how you like, but don't go railing on people about how you think their settings are wrong, because unless they're doing something really unusual, they probably aren't.
 
Last edited:

Latest Posts

Back