What's your most expensive worst car?

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that Porsche electric thing, worst car in the game
The Porsche tycan ?
Mine: the McLaren P1 GTR '16. At $3.6 million it's not even close. And it's not even close to drivable either. I got that $1m bonus a couple weeks ago, and when I finished the café I got another $1m so I thought, what the heck? I saw the 986 HP/607.5 torque for under 800 PP stock and thought it was going to be my sleeper car for all the 800 events. Boy was I wrong. I feel like such a sucker.

I spent an entire day Saturday tuning it for the track at Catalunya but I can't keep it in the race. (Side note, what's the deal with tuning the car perfectly in Time Trials only to have it behave totally differently on race day? Seriously, any insight here?)

The car had an even worse time at Maggiore, slipping around like I was on ice. And I literally went all-four-tires-off-the-ground airborne on that huge drop to that banked hairpin. I nearly landed on the poor guy in front of me!

I'm so frustrated. The only car I have worse is the Ford GT LM Spec II Test Car which, for some reason I have two of. But they don't bother me as much because I got them both in the roulette somehow. The McLaren is just such an ugly mistake and now I'm stuck with it. What an expensive paperweight, although it probably would slip right off the paper too, so scratch that idea . . . .

So, what other lemons are out there to avoid? What was your biggest most expensive and disappointing mistake of a purchase?

Buggati VGT , I mean wtf is up with the DRS ??? Route X and the flipping flap thing keeps opening and closing , tried holding the overtake button and it does nothing , car is a goddamm turd .
I’ve got a tune you can only get 3 laps. Unless you reduce the bhp
 

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Sure, some of us know what a low-sprung or low tension LSD acts like. An open diff. But this isn't real life, and it's clear there are many things in GT7 that don't even come close to replicating when it comes to the way real life chassis changes affect car handling.

Not only does initial torque at just about anything over 5 lead to almost instant lock up, there's an unusual trait in 7 where the cars seem to keep rear wheel inertia up even when the throttle is dropped, leading to sometimes uncatchable oversteer. This is especially prevalent in older cars in my experience. I don't know which metric makes this happen, whether it's braking torque, accel torque, or what, but with initial torque I always start at 5, then work my way up until I can have a nice balance of oversteer when needed to change car attitude.

My real life car has a very tight diff in it, and it just doesn't behave in a way that GT7 is representative of. It doesn't wildly back itself into corners or have unforgiving oversteer in any situation, whether it be track or street, but the in game RX7 tuned to a similar level is a chore to drive with pretty much any high LSD settings, and an FD in real life is almost never a chore to balance. It's very known for it's even and beautiful chassis balance. GT7 does not replicate this well.

I love GT7, but the tuning aspects of it are especially strange, and do not work like they do in real life. This goes for much more than just LSD settings.

In the game, low LSD settings usually leads to a easier to drive car that isn't so twitchy. This is something that many people and prominent sim racers online or YT have found as well, so people have been inclined to do it, and it has been proven to work.

Tune how you like, but don't go railing on people about how you think their settings are wrong, because unless they're doing something really unusual, they probably aren't.
I dont experience what you say about having my diff above 5, even above 15 is manageable, so try again with that one. Idk if there is a glitch at 7, maybe. And I've never seen a youtuber put any actual effort into tuning other then "oh yeah, drop the diff, it werks." So you'd have to provide more than "even the top youtubers do it herp." Edit: I just went back and checked all my Ferrari's and they all have Initial Torque of 11 or higher except the Testarossa which is a 7 so I'm not really in agreement with anything you said, but that's not the point.

LSD is a short cut. Sure things dont work exactly like IRL, but the suspension tunes do work. Lowered LSD, It doesnt lead to the best car possible. That's all I'm saying.

The biggest problem is people want to treat it like an arcade where they late brake - hit the apex - and slam on the gas, like they are on/off switches. That's not realistic (or the fastest way to race), but it sure does work if you drop the diff to 5.
 
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Mine: the McLaren P1 GTR '16. At $3.6 million it's not even close. And it's not even close to drivable either. I got that $1m bonus a couple weeks ago, and when I finished the café I got another $1m so I thought, what the heck? I saw the 986 HP/607.5 torque for under 800 PP stock and thought it was going to be my sleeper car for all the 800 events. Boy was I wrong. I feel like such a sucker.

I spent an entire day Saturday tuning it for the track at Catalunya but I can't keep it in the race. (Side note, what's the deal with tuning the car perfectly in Time Trials only to have it behave totally differently on race day? Seriously, any insight here?)

The car had an even worse time at Maggiore, slipping around like I was on ice. And I literally went all-four-tires-off-the-ground airborne on that huge drop to that banked hairpin. I nearly landed on the poor guy in front of me!

I'm so frustrated. The only car I have worse is the Ford GT LM Spec II Test Car which, for some reason I have two of. But they don't bother me as much because I got them both in the roulette somehow. The McLaren is just such an ugly mistake and now I'm stuck with it. What an expensive paperweight, although it probably would slip right off the paper too, so scratch that idea . . . .

So, what other lemons are out there to avoid? What was your biggest most expensive and disappointing mistake of a purchase?
Since this post I've bought the P1. A little reluctant after seeing some poor reviews, but also noticed a few good ones too.
Main reason I bought it was because I had it in GTS (and I thought it was fine there) but could only race it in Arcade with a field of other P1s. Now I can race it against other cars!

I love it - haven't had any spinning issues at all. In fact it's very stable and very fast.
I have TC on 1. ABS on default. Stability control off (although I have tried it on and it doesn't seem to make any difference!), that steering correction thing off. I use a wheel.

Haven't done anything to it apart from buy some IM tyres..... it's a shame it's not working for you because it can be a lovely car, and great for the WTC800 races.
 
So far, it's specifically a Camaro Z28 that I tuned out the wazoo. Granted, I won it instead of buying it, but I still spent the credits on tuning and customization. Even on Racing Mediums, it's almost entirely un-drivable. So I'm thinking of simply reducing the power a bit until it's much more manageable.
 
I dont experience what you say about having my diff above 5, even above 15 is manageable, so try again with that one. Idk if there is a glitch at 7, maybe. And I've never seen a youtuber put any actual effort into tuning other then "oh yeah, drop the diff, it werks." So you'd have to provide more than "even the top youtubers do it herp." Edit: I just went back and checked all my Ferrari's and they all have Initial Torque of 11 or higher except the Testarossa which is a 7 so I'm not really in agreement with anything you said, but that's not the point.

LSD is a short cut. Sure things dont work exactly like IRL, but the suspension tunes do work. Lowered LSD, It doesnt lead to the best car possible. That's all I'm saying.

The biggest problem is people want to treat it like an arcade where they late brake - hit the apex - and slam on the gas, like they are on/off switches. That's not realistic (or the fastest way to race), but it sure does work if you drop the diff to 5.
Ha ha, ok. I love that simple conversation has you back on your heels, confused, and confrontational, but oh well.

I said "I START AT FIVE AND WORK MY WAY UP TO BALANCE", not that anything above 5 isn't manageable. I'll shout that out in caps so you read it this time. Your confusion and lack of reading comprehension is a bad look.

LSD is not a short cut, we're talking about tuning them, not eliminating them or dropping them all to 5. Once again, you can be mad about it, but you're only mad at your completely ridiculous misinterpretation of my post. Total **** for actually having a debate or conversation.

I say "many people and prominent sim racers online or YT have found" and you interpret that as "even the top youtubers do it herp"... what are you, 12 years old? What did I put in my post that made you turn into a smarmy little ****? Or are you just a smarmy little ****?

You also say "start with transmission tuning to help handling"? BEFORE suspension and diff? And you want me to take your opinion seriously? What would transmission tuning have to do with traction, handling or "worst cars" as this thread is about? If you're changing you gear ratios enough to deal with traction issues, then you're going to cause other issues with power delivery, top speed, gear spacing etc... Ok guy, whatever you say. LOL

You even said yourself, "Your end goal is to have the LSD as high as you can handle" which is pretty much exactly what I said. "START AT 5 AND WORK YOUR WAY UP" doesn't mean "KEEP IT AT FIVE". How can you get it all so wrong, and be mad about it? Ha ha.

People "want to treat it like an arcade where they late brake - hit the apex - and slam on the gas"... how do you know this? Thing is, you don't, and you're just making blanket statements up to support an argument in your own head. I'm A+, have very good throttle control and general driving ability, and I tune my diffs how I see fit, not based on some posturing bro on a forum that thinks he has a handle on GT7 diff tuning because... I don't know why. How do we even know you're any good at this at all? LOL

I'd like to throw your "try again with that one" back in your face, but I already know you're just going to misread everything, get it all wrong, and do it with a pissy attitude, so maybe don't bother. You can disagree all you want, but it will likely be because you don't know what's going on, not because you have salient points to make.

And finally, since you obviously can't be bothered to find it yourself because that would take work and attention, here's some videos of people doing comprehensive tuning videos where many aspects of diff tuning are the main point, or a part of it. I know you think they just say "durr, drop the diff, hurr durr" because you might have watched a Kireth video and extrapolated his point to be everyone's like a simpleton, but I emplore you to maybe open your eyes and ears, shut your mouth, and actually listen to what people are saying instead of making up some BS response based on your emotions.

Doughinator- comprehensive diff testing

Voss - diff basics, real world dynamics, and tuning basics

Hokihoshi - total tuning guide and explantions

H. Mushmann - diff tuning for FWD, AWD, RWD, and Rear engine cars

I know I probably wasted a bunch of time making a post you won't read and will probably write a ****** reply for, but it could help some people here, and that's the whole point of being a part of this community and forum.
 
Ha ha, ok. I love that simple conversation has you back on your heels, confused, and confrontational, but oh well.

I said "I START AT FIVE AND WORK MY WAY UP TO BALANCE", not that anything above 5 isn't manageable. I'll shout that out in caps so you read it this time. Your confusion and lack of reading comprehension is a bad look.

LSD is not a short cut, we're talking about tuning them, not eliminating them or dropping them all to 5. Once again, you can be mad about it, but you're only mad at your completely ridiculous misinterpretation of my post. Total **** for actually having a debate or conversation.

I say "many people and prominent sim racers online or YT have found" and you interpret that as "even the top youtubers do it herp"... what are you, 12 years old? What did I put in my post that made you turn into a smarmy little *? Or are you just a smarmy little *?

You also say "start with transmission tuning to help handling"? BEFORE suspension and diff? And you want me to take your opinion seriously? What would transmission tuning have to do with traction, handling or "worst cars" as this thread is about? If you're changing you gear ratios enough to deal with traction issues, then you're going to cause other issues with power delivery, top speed, gear spacing etc... Ok guy, whatever you say. LOL

You even said yourself, "Your end goal is to have the LSD as high as you can handle" which is pretty much exactly what I said. "START AT 5 AND WORK YOUR WAY UP" doesn't mean "KEEP IT AT FIVE". How can you get it all so wrong, and be mad about it? Ha ha.

People "want to treat it like an arcade where they late brake - hit the apex - and slam on the gas"... how do you know this? Thing is, you don't, and you're just making blanket statements up to support an argument in your own head. I'm A+, have very good throttle control and general driving ability, and I tune my diffs how I see fit, not based on some posturing bro on a forum that thinks he has a handle on GT7 diff tuning because... I don't know why. How do we even know you're any good at this at all? LOL

I'd like to throw your "try again with that one" back in your face, but I already know you're just going to misread everything, get it all wrong, and do it with a pissy attitude, so maybe don't bother. You can disagree all you want, but it will likely be because you don't know what's going on, not because you have salient points to make.

And finally, since you obviously can't be bothered to find it yourself because that would take work and attention, here's some videos of people doing comprehensive tuning videos where many aspects of diff tuning are the main point, or a part of it. I know you think they just say "durr, drop the diff, hurr durr" because you might have watched a Kireth video and extrapolated his point to be everyone's like a simpleton, but I emplore you to maybe open your eyes and ears, shut your mouth, and actually listen to what people are saying instead of making up some BS response based on your emotions.

Doughinator- comprehensive diff testing

Voss - diff basics, real world dynamics, and tuning basics

Hokihoshi - total tuning guide and explantions

H. Mushmann - diff tuning for FWD, AWD, RWD, and Rear engine cars

I know I probably wasted a bunch of time making a post you won't read and will probably write a ****** reply for, but it could help some people here, and that's the whole point of being a part of this community and forum.
You realize that at least 3 of those paragraphs are just talking **** to me and opining about my pissy response. Do you really expect me to respond favorably to that post?


I know how to tune oversteer and understeer out of a car. All I'm saying is LSD shouldn't be the all encompassing first attempt go to for all difficult cars and it is disingenuous to tell people to drop the IT to 5 if your really trying to help them get the best car possible.


Thanks for the links, I'm sure someone here will learn something from them.
 
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You realize that at least 3 of those paragraphs are just talking **** to me and opining about my pissy response. Do you really expect me to respond favorably to that post?


I know how to tune oversteer and understeer out of a car. All I'm saying is LSD shouldn't be the all encompassing first attempt go to for all difficult cars and it is disingenuous to tell people to drop the IT to 5 if your really trying to help them get the best car possible.


Thanks for the links, I'm sure someone here will learn something from them.
Being an ass opens you up to people responding like one, and all those talking **** paragraphs had actual refutes to your nonsense. And yeah, there's no way I expected you to come back happy, but that's the way it goes when someone starts being a ****. It's fun for me, but I'm not gonna be the one to throw the first jab.

And, once again, you confute things. If someone is having trouble they should drop it to 5, then move up as desired. But I guess you're just gonna continue being obtuse for no good reason. What do you suggest, guessing at random numbers?

Offering advice is much better than your response of "LOL you guys don't know" and telling them to tune their transmission, offering nothing in the way of actual helpful information.
 
The 5 torque 5 acceleration 60 brakes
Was from a comment on the twitter GT7 page that some had left.

Quote

Initial torque 5
Acceleration sensitivity 5
Braking sensitivity 60
Thank me later.

I just posted this to some asking about controlling the Shelby coupe ‘64 with a supercharger. 🤙
 
that Porsche electric thing, worst car in the game
Totally agree, cannot tune it any decent way to enter most races and if you do, you can get at most 2 laps before you need to recharge in the pits, handling is sub par, and can be fixed. The only good thing about my buying this car was that I got that eco- trophy for it...
 
Totally agree, cannot tune it any decent way to enter most races and if you do, you can get at most 2 laps before you need to recharge in the pits, handling is sub par, and can be fixed. The only good thing about my buying this car was that I got that eco- trophy for it...
Use it on the Nurburgring
 
I haven't tried it since they tweaked the handling but when the game first came out the Gr.3 JGTC Supra was awful and incredibly slow compared to the other Gr.3 cars, the ones with the chili peppers were particularly hard in this car but a ease with the free Vision Mazda.
 
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