Wheel settings for PC?PC
- Thread starter DirtDrift
- 20 comments
- 2,029 views
- 8,381
- The Black Lodge
Yes, it matters, especially Deadzone Removal Range. Deadzone in this case refers to FFB deadzone, not steering deadzone or other deadzones. DRR/FFB/TF go hand in hand, so one can't really go without the other (e.g. different FFB strength means different deadzone)
- 1,001
- Germany
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
FFB 100 should be standard for all wheels.
Deadzone removal range is another word for 'Minimum Force' and is the second most important parameter. It is totally variable per wheel (and driver settings for the wheel). Adjust until you get center oscillation, then one notch back.
Then there is Relative adjust gain which compresses all the forces into the window a wheel is able to reproduce. Also very dependent on the Wheel, anything between 0.7 and 1.1 should be reasonable to try out.
For extreme High End Wheels (Fanatec CSW V2/Bodnar/Accuforce) all these settings should be set to 0 because these wheels always respond linear to every input, meaning they are able to reproduce the whole dynamic range of forces right away.
Each Car then provides a Master Scale Parameter to be able to quick tune FFB Strength while on the track.
Besides that, the settings and their influences really are in the academic territory and hard to figure out. The WMD FFB Druids did this already for us and i would say they pretty much hit the spot.
Deadzone removal range is another word for 'Minimum Force' and is the second most important parameter. It is totally variable per wheel (and driver settings for the wheel). Adjust until you get center oscillation, then one notch back.
Then there is Relative adjust gain which compresses all the forces into the window a wheel is able to reproduce. Also very dependent on the Wheel, anything between 0.7 and 1.1 should be reasonable to try out.
For extreme High End Wheels (Fanatec CSW V2/Bodnar/Accuforce) all these settings should be set to 0 because these wheels always respond linear to every input, meaning they are able to reproduce the whole dynamic range of forces right away.
Each Car then provides a Master Scale Parameter to be able to quick tune FFB Strength while on the track.
Besides that, the settings and their influences really are in the academic territory and hard to figure out. The WMD FFB Druids did this already for us and i would say they pretty much hit the spot.
- 1,391
- vermont
- diesel4x497
Can you go in a little more depth about the "master scale'
- 1,001
- Germany
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
Its a simple multiplier, so to speak, for the settings done in the Main Menu. Each Car has it as part of the Vehicle Tuning/Setup Menu. Since every car is very different in PCars, it could (and should) very well be that you have strong, tight FFB in one car and then in an other car, using the same FFB Setup the wheel will feel very light, compared to the car before. To be able to even this out a little bit, you can crank up or tone down the overall FFB Strenght per car using the Master Scale setting. If even this is not enough for you, you are also able to tune the influence of the Turning Moment (Mz) or the individual influences of the Longitudinal (Fx), Lateral (Fy) and Vertical (Fz) forces that come out of the steering rack simulation and go into the Force Mixer to generate FFB.
I'm sure @LogiForce will be able to elaborate much deeper on FFB Settings and hopefully will not totally destroy my simplistic attempt to explain what all of this is supposed to be meaning
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- 8,381
- The Black Lodge
Use the iRacing Wheelcheck utility to measure this at 100% FFB to know the exact DRR setting for your wheel without fiddling. 👍
- 1,001
- Germany
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
- bLoWfIsHrUlEz
For the T300 i found 75% (default) in the Thrustmaster Driver Settings to have the best linearity. Minimum Force (or Force Offset) seems to be lowest at this setting too. The 100 FFB was meant to represent the PCars ingame setting (on PC) to be clear, only this ensures the Wheel uses the full 75% from the TM Settings Panel.
On consoles, that most probably equals to a 75% FFB Strength ingame setting indeed! 👍
- 8,381
- The Black Lodge
For LT wheels the FFB slider simply overrides what's set in the LT Profiler. This is consistent with measurements I made at 50% and 100% FFB, since the G27 has a whopping FFB deadzone (18% at 100% and 33% at 50%). If I drop the slider ingame to 50 (while keeping the LT profile at 100), the DRR is 0.33. Set it to 100 and it's 0.18. This also means that setting the slider in the LT Profiler to > 100 values (107% is popular), this will have NO effect in game, since the maximum is 100.
Note that setting the DRR incorrectly (or not at all) for a wheel with a large deadzone means you will be missing out on ALL the small effects like kerbs, bumps, etc.
Another thing to take into consideration is that large FFB + large TF means steering will be so powerful that it will drown out the detailed FX. So for LT wheels I would recommend setting TF to something like 60-75 max (or keep at 100 and decrease FFB strength but this will also reduce dynamic range).
We could really use an FFB guide with a workflow, like the ones present for iRacing and AC...
Note that setting the DRR incorrectly (or not at all) for a wheel with a large deadzone means you will be missing out on ALL the small effects like kerbs, bumps, etc.
Another thing to take into consideration is that large FFB + large TF means steering will be so powerful that it will drown out the detailed FX. So for LT wheels I would recommend setting TF to something like 60-75 max (or keep at 100 and decrease FFB strength but this will also reduce dynamic range).
We could really use an FFB guide with a workflow, like the ones present for iRacing and AC...
- 15,972
- Devon UK
- johnboy-1975-
- 11,845
- Colchester
- Gedi69
- Never!
Tomorrow sometime with a clear head.👍
Overdone it have ya lol.
- 15,972
- Devon UK
- johnboy-1975-
- 1
- Netherlands
Hey guys. I'm using the fanatec csr wheel. With pedals I'm having trouble with them. Somehow throttle isn't working correctly. Seems when I put my foot down it revs up but car doesn't speed up. Any suggestions?
- 2,373
- The Chocolate Factory
- ozwheels3
It would be amazing if someone could try to point me in the right direction to mess with ffb settings. What I want is for the wheel to go light as soon as brakes lock up. Currently on my T300 it feels as if it only goes light when the front end washes out. Sometimes there is smoke coming off the tires or you can hear wheels locking but the ffb never goes light. Is this possible to set up?
magic_town
Premium
- 956
- Melbourne
- magic_town2
- magilt
magic_town
Premium
- 956
- Melbourne
- magic_town2
- magilt
Really? I've felt the wheel go light with understeer, but never with locked brakes. Unless you have locked the brakes while turning, then that is basically understeer anyway.
That's what I meant. As soon as the front wheels start sliding the FFB gets light.
