worth getting a racing wheel?

  • Thread starter Chris123
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I would highly recommend a DFGT, not because it's cheap ( it's easily affordable ), but it's built very well, very durable.
Plus, as a DFGT and G25 owner, the wheels are remarkably similar in performance. The G25 clutch and H-shifter are nice, but I haven't missed them. What's more, the DFGT integrates perfectly into GT5 and 6. I love having that lit up "GT" horn button, so I can razz the bots that give me fits. :D

One thing I would add that if you intend to get into PC sim racing, the G25/27 wheels or Thrustmaster are the way to go.
 
scholesy1899:
-we always approach sober but end up drunk with sixth,
-with MR you are done at corner entry, corner exit, off and on throttle in GT6 - it's amazing how broken these cars are,
-I'm not going to teach myself something I know is incorrect

I don't care about points. GT6 is no fun for me - that's all there is to it. I wouldn't recommend buying GT6, let alone a wheel for it.

That's a bit of an exaggeration. There's a few MR's that have handling issues, the majority of them are just fine. The other 99% of cars handle just fine as well.

I also have the GTEYE and highly recommend it. Much better than stock brake springs, feels closer to the real thing.
 
I think a wheel is a must .. But that's just me !! If your getting a G27 it would be good to also order a NIXIM brake mod spring .. You'll find it on eBay .. About £18 I think .. Improves brake feel .. You can't go wrong simple to fit (instructions included) .. Got my G27 about 2 years ago and loved every minute .. Also bought an OPENWHEELER race seat .. Also on eBay .. About £200 ... Amazing value for what you get (I love eBay x) enjoy ...
 
ye ive ordered one for £202, little bit more than what i planned but i see that if you want quality then you'll have to spill a few more pennies, im also looking into getting a proper stand later on but for now il have to make do, really grateful for all the advice, just wondering what you mean by modding the pedals, if you could give me an example so im prepared and dont mess it up before i get to use to haha :D


Ignore the sponge reference if you're going for a G27 👍

Tho, i modded my G27 pedals with this:

http://www.gteye.com.au/

So glad i did too. It's literally what it looks like. A modified spring. Replace your existing G27 brake pedal with it and put the original G27 brake spring in the clutch instead :)

Really easy to do, but for ease of work, a 2nd pair of hands really helps for some bits, due to the thin wires inside the pedal housing. A bit tricky.
Of course, brand new wheel, you might not want to mess around inside of it just yet.

For reference sake anyway, here's some links on how to do it :cheers:



https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/the-must-have-upgrade-for-any-logitech-g25-g27-owner.279149/


Seriously, this mod and several others like it really help with braking. There are, of course better mods out there but this one is about £16 with free shipping from Australia ( only place to get them ) but i recall the item arriving literally in about 4 or 5 days.

Of course, like I say. Brand new G27. You might not want to open it up, but there is no real danger of anything braking unless you are trying your hardest to be haphazard about it :) Just warranties i guess.
 
I also have done the brake spring mod, after my warranty ran out i did it and honestly it makes a massive difference, the pedals are brilliant standard, but that brake mod is a must to make things perfect
 
500_volante.jpg


If you can afford it, it's worth it.
 
I think GT is a game when played with a controller, and a tool when used with a wheel.


Don't get me wrong, there are MANY fast DS3 drivers and I applaud them for their skills. However, I prefer to use GT as not only an awesome racing simulator, but a tool for learning car control and such. So a wheel is invaluable to me. I have had a G27 for the past 3-4 years and don't regret it one bit. Each component of my G27 has been modified, but I wouldn't have done it any other way.
 
alright guys its finally arrived, using it right now, all i can say is it feels great, im having to relearn it all over again but its an extremely smart piece of kit, especially that force feedback, which leads me to ask another question, is it normal to try and hold the wheel firmly still when going at high speeds to stop it from swinging from left to right, or will this damage the wheel, i know this may sound like a silly question but im completely knew to this, but anyways im really grateful for all your advice, really top notch stuff guys, look forward to maybe racing you guys someday if i can get the hang of this :D
 
is it normal to try and hold the wheel firmly still when going at high speeds to stop it from swinging from left to right, or will this damage the wheel, i know this may sound like a silly question but im completely knew to this, but anyways im really grateful for all your advice, really top notch stuff guys, look forward to maybe racing you guys someday if i can get the hang of this :D
Yes, that's normal, we all do it. You'll get used to it soon enough and it'll become second nature.

By the way, try to use full sentences, capitals etc. when posting here. We'd all appreciate it.
 
Hey, I dont mean to "thread-jack" but I drove a G27 at 12 hours of Sebring in the nissan display. I really didnt like the wheel yanking back and forth in a straight line, and was wondering if that was a G27 problem, or a GT6 problem. Ive never experienced that in real life before and it bothered me A LOT!

Thanks.
 
Like Johnny said, this will become second nature. Soon you'll be able to hold in one hand and think nothing of it. You're overcompensating at the moment because it's new and unlike RL, like you thought it would be?

Have a play with it. Do some reversing, parking even 3 point turns. This will give you feel for the full travel/steering lock of the wheel and different cars. This in turn will help later for tuning feedback (toe, mid corner, exit etc)

Keep an eye on the brake/throttle meters on HUD. At the beginning I found I was still depressing the throttle sometimes when wanting to be off for those vital seconds or for when I need to roll into/through corners.

Now you can blip and brake (DFGT) or learn full heel/toe (G27), I can't remember what you plumped for, and the feel of engine braking and all that good stuff.

And remember......do your braking in a straight line. Or as much as you can, before you go onto trail braking. You may find you do some of this naturally, some takes actual thinking before it becomes muscle memory as Doc says.
 
Like Johnny said, this will become second nature. Soon you'll be able to hold in one hand and think nothing of it. You're overcompensating at the moment because it's new and unlike RL, like you thought it would be?

Have a play with it. Do some reversing, parking even 3 point turns. This will give you feel for the full travel/steering lock of the wheel and different cars. This in turn will help later for tuning feedback (toe, mid corner, exit etc)

Keep an eye on the brake/throttle meters on HUD. At the beginning I found I was still depressing the throttle sometimes when wanting to be off for those vital seconds or for when I need to roll into/through corners.

Now you can blip and brake (DFGT) or learn full heel/toe (G27), I can't remember what you plumped for, and the feel of engine braking and all that good stuff.

And remember......do your braking in a straight line. Or as much as you can, before you go onto trail braking. You may find you do some of this naturally, some takes actual thinking before it becomes muscle memory as Doc says.

Not to be rude, but is there a way to avoid the problem all together?

Perhaps a different wheel? (At any cost)

To me it felt like driving a car with a worn out steeing rack.
 
Thanks, I guess ill just have to "white knuckle" drive when I finally pick a wheel!
Honestly, you get used to it. I can be barely holding my DFGT alot of the time with no wiggle. But let go of the wheel at high speed in certain cars, and a huge tank slapper doesn't take long to materialise.
 
It's no biggy. Most PC sims have OPTIONS (nice thread that one) dead zone and such. Shift2 I played and that had it but their physics was just........

GT don't have it. As with many haphazard "options" of theirs.

The rest...what Fez is saying.

During practice, on league nights. When we have a break, a lot of the lads have to obviously go out for a cigerette. I smoke away at 180mph.
 
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Honestly, you get used to it. I can be barely holding my DFGT alot of the time with no wiggle. But let go of the wheel at high speed in certain cars, and a huge tank slapper doesn't take long to materialise.

Ok, its starting to make sence.. the movements are like a car following camber,or bumps, but it only really works with your hand on the wheel.

The car I drove was a R35 GTR GT Academy. (RH tires, full aero, loads of camber) and the track was Daytona 24h.

I guess that was probably an extreme situation. I feel better now :)
 
Is it the nature of accelerometers/gyro or what ever they are driving feed back in pad and wheel also.......lads?

Only way to achieve good simulation and weight to our hands?. Keep motor skills happy?

I'm not getting my thought across well, apologies.
 
Is it the nature of accelerometers/gyro or what ever they are driving feed back in pad and wheel also.......lads?

Not sure I understand the question but if it's how do they actuate the FFB on a wheel then it's from data sent back from the game to the controller that tells it what FFB to exert. In a DS3 the only interpretation it can make from the data is what speed to spin the off-centre weight to create a rumble. In wheels, especially the higher end one, they can apply different types of FFB depending on the data it gets sent. T500 has something like 12 different FFB motions that it can apply from Engine rumble to Whiplash although only a few are used by GT6.

I don't believe either device uses accelerometers or gyros for the FFB although the DS3 does use those for motion control up/down/left/right etc.
 
Not to be rude, but is there a way to avoid the problem all together?

Perhaps a different wheel? (At any cost)

To me it felt like driving a car with a worn out steeing rack.
In 4 years with the DFGT/G27 I've never had this issue other than when I let go of the wheel. I believe most of this stuff is caused by over-correcting and using exaggerated inputs. One thing that can happen that's easier to control with a DS3 is a tank-slapper. You get some throttle oversteer on exit, overcorrect, it swings back the other way, next thing you're into the barrier or grass. Its perfectly natural though and with experience, controllable with the right throttle/steering inputs.
 
Not to be rude, but is there a way to avoid the problem all together?

Perhaps a different wheel? (At any cost)

To me it felt like driving a car with a worn out steeing rack.

May it be that you are thinking about the same problem I had with the DFGT, that the wheel is starting to "oscillate" on straights? I have read that this problem is avoidable when you can adjust the settings, such as on a PC.

However, when I switched to the Thrustmaster T500 I did not have this problem anymore. So you can either adjust to it, or pay more, and get the T500 to avoid it. All wheels tries to simulate the weight transfer when you turn by pulling the wheel in the opposite direction, so this is not avoidable because of the lack of settings in GT6.
 
May it be that you are thinking about the same problem I had with the DFGT, that the wheel is starting to "oscillate" on straights? I have read that this problem is avoidable when you can adjust the settings, such as on a PC.

However, when I switched to the Thrustmaster T500 I did not have this problem anymore. So you can either adjust to it, or pay more, and get the T500 to avoid it. All wheels tries to simulate the weight transfer when you turn by pulling the wheel in the opposite direction, so this is not avoidable because of the lack of settings in GT6.
I don't see how you would need settings to correct this in GT. I've driven hundreds of cars with G27/DFGT and never had this issue unless I let go of the wheel. And I don't have to hold on for dear life either, my grip is very relaxed.
 
Yeah that's what I mean sort of. The immature data sent to the wheel by GT is limited in FFB profiles unlike the T500, thus in some areas of strength and and feel it could be primitive and exaggerated. So when a new user first drives a wheel it feels like their fighting it, until of course your hand to eye coordination and all that gets used to it.

Nightmares of shift 2 cars feeling like a speed boat, you got used to it but it was still unnatural.

What I think I'm saying is GT's FFB, along with its oscillation, in the end is very conducive to tricking the brain into thinking its different cars we're driving, and it feels natural and good. Some strong oscillation some not.

👍
 
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I don't see how you would need settings to correct this in GT. I've driven hundreds of cars with G27/DFGT and never had this issue unless I let go of the wheel. And I don't have to hold on for dear life either, my grip is very relaxed.

Exactly my point, you can't let go of the wheel with the DFGT. You can do that with no problems at all with the T500.
 
I say yes. It transforms the game and it's so different and better to know you actually drove the race not just thumbsticked you're way around it.

Is it difficult to relearn? Yes. Is it more physically tiring and demanding? Yes and it is well worth the effort.
 
Exactly my point, you can't let go of the wheel with the DFGT. You can do that with no problems at all with the T500.
You can, you just need to get the car /wheel /steering absolutely straight. But it's very difficult. 9/10 times the wheel is slightly off centre, or the weight is still slightly on one side of the car, causing the snaking effect.

You can actualy use the throttle to correct it.


There is a car control course where you jerk the wheel at 80mph and let go as one of the first exercises . The car will correct itself before regaining a straightish course. (this happens in most stock road cars due to how they are setup for safety, a track car might not react the same way)

This is the same effect in GT at 80 mph in certain cars. At higher speeds the rear slides too violently for the front to naturally keep up.


As Johnny said, most of these situations are caused by over inputs/corrections. If the car did what it wanted, it would correct the prefect amount.




I hope that made sense.
 
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