Zonda C125 7.3 drag times

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mjfalcon
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Oklahoma
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Mjfalcon
I haven't seen very many drag times for this car, so I was just wondering what a good time is for this car?
 
Last edited:
Ah ok. im at mid 9.3's right now. so ive got some work to do. I noticed that 7k shift too.

idk what i need to fix though.
 
What is your suspension? Usually minor mistakes cause the loss of more time than a decent transmission.
 
The suspension for my best time was:

ride height: -15/15
Spring rate: 7.5/12.6
Dampers(ex.): 2/9
Dampers(Comp.): 2/7

Camber: 8.2/0
Toe: -1.00/1.00
 
The suspension for my best time was:

ride height: -15/15
Spring rate: 7.5/12.6
Dampers(ex.): 2/9
Dampers(Comp.): 2/7

Camber: 8.2/0
Toe: -1.00/1.00

Try

ride height: -15/15
Spring rate: max/min
Dampers(ex.): 1/5
Dampers(Comp.): 5/10

Camber: 2.2/0
Toe: -1.00/0.70
 
Try

ride height: -15/15
Spring rate: max/min
Dampers(ex.): 1/5
Dampers(Comp.): 5/10

Camber: 2.2/0
Toe: -1.00/0.70

Why would I want the front spring rate all the way up and the back all the way down?
 
Mjfalcon
Why would I want the front ride height all the way up and the back all the way down?

Huh??
You might be reading that upside down. He has -15 in the front and +15 in the rear.

Oh Nevermind i see spring rate my bad. stiffer in the rear. And softer in the front. Reason not a lot of squat i assume
 
Mjfalcon
Wrote the wrong thing. It's been edited now. My bad :dunce:

Mjfalcon
Why would I want the front ride height all the way up and the back all the way down?


Oh Nevermind i see spring rate my bad. stiffer in the rear. And softer in the front. Reason not a lot of squat i assume
 
Dream is right. Put it the other way around, unless you are doing a muscle car suspension...
 
Ok that makes sense. I was thinking it was backwards.

Reason being is that with FR cars the weight needs to be transfered to the rear wheels, so if it's softer up front, less load is forced on the front wheels and the weight is transfered to the rear. Since MR cars have the engine towards the back, a soft front is not necessary, and there for we make it stiff so the front end doesn't raise, which would effectively wasting torque that should be at the wheels if the front rose.
 
Reason being is that with FR cars the weight needs to be transfered to the rear wheels, so if it's softer up front, less load is forced on the front wheels and the weight is transfered to the rear. Since MR cars have the engine towards the back, a soft front is not necessary, and there for we make it stiff so the front end doesn't raise, which would effectively wasting torque that should be at the wheels if the front rose.

That clears a lot up. I was thinking about that the wrong way. And for whatever reason my brain wasnt working right at 1am (Why on earth would it do that?) and I was using the values the opposite way. If that makes sense.
 
if your zonda can hit a 9.27 the you have a great tune, all it needs is some more tweeking to make it faster
 
That clears a lot up. I was thinking about that the wrong way. And for whatever reason my brain wasnt working right at 1am (Why on earth would it do that?) and I was using the values the opposite way. If that makes sense.

I did that for a long time TBH.

if your zonda can hit a 9.27 the you have a great tune, all it needs is some more tweeking to make it faster

Yeah mine runes 9.28x and that took like 2 minutes to do. Transmission is what needs work.
 
coming along nicely.

stretch your tranny out some more to keep each gear in the right rev range.

And lower your rear toe if you haven't already
 
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