My GT6 tyre philosophy

There is no undriveable cars or settings with ABS OFF.
It is possible to drive car with rear toe angle -1.00 or comfort hard tires with racing brakes end brake balance front 10 rear 10,all you have to do is to be more careful.
It also possible to drive cars with front sports meduim and rear sports hard tires,I can even drive Audi A4 DTM with front racing hard and rear sports medium tires with BB front 8 rear 8 and I won't be slow.
If you drive 3,4 years with ABS OFF it will become your second nature.
 
If there's no real difference in lap times with ABS-1 or ABS-0 for a driver who has mastered both, then what is the point of making things harder for yourself for no gain?

It's not like going from Comfort to Sport or from Sport to Comfort where there is actually a difference in lap time.
 
Harder is relative :) It's a choice that you have to make, I made mine on the 1st day of GT5 ownership - back on release day :) I spent about 5 minutes with ABS 1 and :confused:, then I disabled it, then :D, all the way to now GT6. It's not the same at all with fitting different tires. Imagine ABS 1 is like having the brakes taken from Need for Speed or Ridge Racer :lol:, something like that :P
 
subsist
I understand your argument, but I don't understand why you are so butthurt about it. If ABS-off is a real representation of a cars brakes more than ABS-on I'd eat my hat. the bottom line is, both systems have flaws. Especially the way the car ramps up to a basic lockup at 50% brake [movement] not pressure, how can this be guaged as anywhere near more realistic than ABS-on?
Click to expand...

That lockup issue is strictly a matter of 2 things: (1) Setting a proper brake balance (2) Setting up your input device. I modded my DFGT pedals for much more resistance.

Oh, and lots of practicing real world braking techniques. High speed threshold braking, setting up for brake zones by balancing out your car in a straight line, pedal modulation etc...

It took me a couple months in GT5 to get myself set up so ABS OFF became my default. I was bored with GT braking and did a lot of driving comparisons with it on and off to determine what felt more realistic. ABS OFF won out by a landslide, there's seriously no comparison.

I did not dump ABS for faster times but strictly for a more realistic driving experience. At this point if I accidentlly leave ABS ON, it feels like SRF to me. Just another physics defying aid.

I agree that if your'e attempting to be realistic with tire choice, then the aids need to be dropped. I've yet to tune a single car in GT6 and drive all road cars on comfort tires or in rare cases SH. Maybe that's one reason I still really enjoy GT6's driving experience. Comfort tires and ABS OFF brings the cars (and tracks) to life.
 
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Most realistic settings:
Run your tests in inline mode!
All aids off
Slipstream OFF
Tyre and fuel depletion: ON
Off track: Real
+ My tyre reccomendations :P

If you feel like you are too slow then practice and/or properly setup your cars camber/toe (if they work in gt6 ;) )
 
This may give different perspective, much less power than the HKS, low aero ( 100 aero rear wing ), 1260kg, can easily do low 57s and surely able to do 56s lap. Read the notes about the tire used in real life :P

Ridox2JZGTE
FEED Fujita Engineering Mazda RX7 FD3S Spirit R Type A '02 Tsukuba Superlap Battle 2011

Tuned to replicate FEED Fujita Engineering Mazda RX7 FD3S
2011 Tsukuba Superlap Battle Champion Street S-Class
Comfort Soft to Sports Soft​




CAR : Mazda RX-7 Spirit R Type A (FD) '02
Tire : Comfort Soft to Sports Soft

Specs
Horsepower: 444HP / 450PS at 7100 RPM
Torque : 390.5 ft-lb at 4400 RPM
Power Limiter at : 93.9%
Weight: 1260 kg
Ballast : 5 kg
Ballast Position : 50
Weight Distribution : 50 / 50
Performance Points: 530


GT AUTO
Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED IN THIS BUILD )
Aero Kits Type A
Custom Rear Wing :
Wing Mount Standard Type E
Wing Large Type D
Winglets Large Type C
Height +0 and Width +40
Wheels : +1 Inch Up ADVAN RGII in White or Silver or Black
Car Paint : Grayish Green Mica Metallic (from Toyota Supra RZ '97 ) or Titanium Gray Metallic II ( from Mazda MX-5 Miata 1800 RS '04 )


Tuning Parts Installed :
Engine Tuning Stage 1
Sports Computer
Semi Racing Exhaust
Isometric Exhaust Manifold
Catalytic Converter Sports
Low RPM Range Turbo Kit
Twin Plate Clutch
Fully Customizable Dog Clutch Transmission
Adjustable LSD
Fully Customizable Suspension
Racing Brakes Kit
Carbon Hood
Window Weight Reduction



Suspension - FEED Fujita Engineering PRO-F09 Coilover Damper Kit
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 75 75
Spring Rate: 15.00 15.00
Dampers (Compression): 6 5
Dampers (Extension): 6 6
Anti-Roll Bars: 5 5
Camber Angle: 0.2 0.2 ( use zero camber all around for max grip )
Toe Angle: -0.07 0.00




LSD - FEED Fujita Engineering 2 Way LSD Tsukuba Superlap Set
Initial Torque : 22
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30


DOG CLUTCH TRANSMISSION - Corrected Ratio as in real life with FEED 4.7 Final
Install all power parts
Set Default
Set Final to 4.000
Set Auto Max Speed at 360kmh / 224mph
Adjust each gear :
1st 3.483
2nd 2.015
3rd 1.391
4th 1.000
5th 0.806
6th 0.675 ( IGNORE 6th for authenticity )
Set Final : 4.700


AERO:
REAR : 100


Brake Balance:
4/4 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 4/4, for ABS 1 - feel free to use your preferred brake balance. I recommend to run 5/5 for ABS 1 or 1 click higher at the rear.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :

Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 4/4 brake balance as starting point.

Notes :

I built this replica upon request from a fellow member f1357924680, he asked for a different version of the FEED RX7 :)

So, after research of the car competing in 2011 Tsukuba Superlap Battle, I used the Touge FEED RX7 version and make slight changes for this replica.

The FEED Fujita Engineering FD3S produces 450PS using FEED T04RS Turbo Kit. Basically the FEED R7 is a street car with excellent tune ups. Weighing at 1260kg and a perfect balance of 50/50, the RX7 proved it's potential in the hands of Nobuteru Taniguchi during December 2011 Tsukuba Superlap Battle in Street S-Class.
During the competition, as the car is in street class, it maintained almost everything, air conditioner, stereo, and still uses H shifter gearbox. The tires used was ADVAN A050 R Spec G/S ( soft ) Compound 295/35R18, the tire only lasted for 3 laps :eek:, and they have to be replaced, the equivalent in GT6 is sports soft tire.
The car won the battle with 58.051s lap. A few months later, March 2012 precisely, the car was taken to Tsukuba again for further testing while also attempting to break the previous record. The 58s time was done in the winter, with low temperature, while this time in March, the weather is suitable for the tires and the car. In the hands of Nobuteru Taniguchi, the FEED RX7 posted an incredible 57.511s lap time at Tsukuba in the same setup as in 2011 Tsukuba Superlap Battle.


Suspension comes from FEED PRO-F09 coilover damper kit, I set the spring at 15/15 as the real life value is not possible in GT6, with a fine tuned damper and ARB, the car gives exceptional response throughout the corner, with tuning aimed at ultimate balance.

LSD is 2 way from FEED, this time I tuned for Tsukuba, which means high preload and high locking rate. This gives the best possible traction and flexibility on the limit.

Gearing is stock, I have to correct this according to real life OEM 5 speed ratio. The FEED RX7 uses FEED 4.7 Final Gear for Tsukuba, which gives the car explosive acceleration that is essential at Tsukuba

I mainly tuned and tested the car at Tsukuba. It easily lap Tsukuba on sports soft at 58s.

Aim to replicate the real life lap time, either the 58.051s or 57.511s lap time. My best so far after a few laps is 57.2xxs :D

ENJOY :cheers:
Click to expand...
 
I agree with your assessments the most.

I have driven touring all-season tire on both Camry and Accord and it feels like comfort hard in GT6.

On a daily basis, I'm currently driving with Performance all-season tire Continental Extreme Contact DWS on my Lexus IS250 and this feels like comfort medium in GT6.

For autocross/track, I use Lexus IS350 with summer-only tires such as Michelin Pilot Super Sport or Hankook V12 and it feels like comfort soft.

Zenmervolt
I just took the '91 NSX out on Tsukuba, no oil change, the stock Comfort Soft tires, ABS-1 only. Ran a 1:08.041. This is nearly 6/10ths faster than the real-life lap of 1:08.630.

I almost never run Tsukuba. I've fewer than 100 laps on Tsukuba in the entire time I've owned GT6 and am very far from having the track learned. I'm definitely not one of the aliens who tops the leaderboards either; one of the top drivers could easily find another second or two compared to my time.

If you're running 1:10s on Sport Medium tires, it's not the tires that are slowing you down.

All that said, I don't agree strictly with the OP's tire classifications.

The '91 NSX came stock with either Bridgestone Potenza RE010s or Yokohama A022H1s. Both are classified as "Ultra High Performance Summer" tires. Based on that, I've re-thought my old opinions on what the tire classifications meant and have come back to this:

Comfort Hard: Your basic "touring all-season" tire like you might find on an average family sedan like an Accord or Camry.

Comfort Medium: A "performance all-season" tire like the Potenza RE970AS or the Continental ExtremeContact DWS. These are tires that typically carry treadwear ratings between 300 and 550.

Comfort Soft: A summer-only tire, typically with a treadwear of 200 or below but still suitable for daily use on the road.

Sport Hard: A streetable track tire like the Yokohama ADVAN A048. These are tires that should not be used on the street in everyday driving, but that have enough tread to make it reasonable that you could drive the car to the track instead of bringing it on a trailer.

Sport Medium: The very stickiest of the streetable track tires and the beginning of the R-compound grooved slick tires.

Sport Soft: The very stickiest of the R-compound tires.

Racing: Various slick tires designed for purpose-built racing cars.
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i like this thread, one quick question, has anyone simply measured gforces in a turn between game and real life?
sport soft tires to me definitely feel way to grippy, was doing stupid things in game with no consequences, had to be better than any slicks i can buy from tire-rack.
 
Thanks for this very informative explanation. You make it very clear, accurate, and to the point.

ABS-1 makes it easier to approach the limit but ABS-1 does NOT increase the limit. Therefore, when we use ABS-1 (being easier), we are more consistent hitting the limit vs. ABS-0 (harder to control). The consistency of excellent lap times might lead some to think that it is increasing the limit while it is actually not, at least not like the case of the SRF. This has been confirmed with with the fact that same good drivers driving with ABS-1 and ABS-0 having almost identical lap times (therefore approaching the same limit).

In summary:

ABS-1 makes it easier to drive to the limit but does NOT increase the limit.
SRF makes it easier to drive to the limit AND INCREASE the limit at the same time.

Some questions:
1. Is ABS in real life similar to ABS-0 or ABS-1?? Please elaborate this if you will. I'm very curious of the difference of ABS in real life vs in game.

2. If we use ABS-0, to prevent the wheels from locking, how should we brake?? Constantly tap tap tap ??

Zenmervolt
If that were true, I wouldn't be able to match my ABS-1 times when playing ABS-0. And yet, I do.

The lap-to-lap variation definitely goes up with ABS-0 as it's more challenging to hit everything perfectly all the time, but the maximum ability of the car doesn't change.

I never said ABS-1 was more realistic (it's not). I never said that ABS-1 doesn't make the game easier (it does). What I have said is that ABS-1 doesn't increase the overall grip available to the car. ABS-1 makes it easier to approach the limit, I don't deny that for a second. But it does not change what the limit is.
Click to expand...
 
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Zenmervolt - the point is that ABS don't work like that in real life!
A good representation of how ABS works is in, LFS, SHIFT, FORZA.
In Gt6 it just enables the player to floor brakes, have super stopping power without any negative repercussions! With ABS set to 0 you need to rethink your braking points, have a feel of how long to press or else you'll lock up, you also need to take into account weight shift so if you brake while turning you might lock up one side etc etc
It may not be perfect but it's closer to real life than 1!
 
Arguing further is pointless.

The main takeaway is that ABS-0 makes the fastest possible lap time a lot harder to achieve than ABS-1 but it is still achievable, and that's all that matters.

If you have a wheel, ABS-0.
If not, ABS-1.

There, everyone's happy.
 
Stephanos82
Zenmervolt - the point is that ABS don't work like that in real life!
Click to expand...

I absolutely agree with that. If you want realism, even ABS-1 isn't really correct. I usually run ABS-0 in GT6 myself (unless I'm farming the Red Bull Standard events for credits); I find that the concentration it requires makes my lines cleaner and it's more fun for me.

But just because ABS-1 is not the ultimate in realism doesn't mean, as Jack has repeatedly claimed, that using ABS-1 somehow negates the ability to feel or comment on any other changes in the physics model. ABS or not, the player can absolutely still feel the differences in tire choice or suspension/differential settings.
 
I tested a bone-stock 2.2L S2000 '06 premium at Suzuka Circuit.

CH - 2:40
CM - 2:35
CS - 2:31
SH - 2:26

Oh, and I used ABS-1. Sue me. I'd rather get the best possible lap in 2 or 3 laps than double or triple that.

Here's a 2.0L S2000 with minimal modifications (shocks, final gear, and Dunlop Z1 Star Specs) running a 2:36



It would seem that either CH or CM would be the most realistic for a dual purpose street/track tire. CS would be a track tire only.

Keep in mind I used a controller. Wheels can probably do 2 or 2.5 seconds better.
 
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SuzukaStar - According to the OP a tyre like Dunlop Z1 star Spec (with a treadwear rating of 200) sits right between CH and CM! Your little Suzuka Test seems to agree with him ;)

Edit: Using a wheel does NOT necessarily mean you are faster! Using ABS1 does!
 
ABS1 is NOT faster than ABS0. It's just easier to get the fastest possible lap time. The fastest possible lap time is the same with ABS0 as it is with ABS10. If you don't believe me, try both, and I mean really try, give it 5 or 10 good laps and report back with the best times for both.

I'd say Dunlop Z1's are CM. And a wheel is always faster. Check the leaderboards of seasonals and the first controller user is nowhere near the top of the list.
 
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SuzukaStar
Arguing further is pointless.

The main takeaway is that ABS-0 makes the fastest possible lap time a lot harder to achieve than ABS-1 but it is still achievable, and that's all that matters.

If you have a wheel, ABS-0.
If not, ABS-1.

There, everyone's happy.
Click to expand...

I'm on stick controller, gas with cross and square for brake, ABS 0 since GT5. My Feed RX7 replica posted above was done on ABS 0 and stick, low 57s after a few laps back when camber was broken ( grip reduced on any value above zero )

Here is a thread that will enlighten those who want to know the intricacy of no ABS braking and how it differs to ABS 1.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/breaking-brakes.313894/


TurnLeft
I’ve just updated the original post, finished the tests on all the street tires ( CH,CM,CS,SH,SM,SS ), also did a small test with the camber effect on brakes. There are a few irregularities in the test results, as I tune other cars I will update and compile the data. I’ve also done a small test with the abs at 1, and between abs0 vs abs1. I was going to test the effect of the spring rates, toe angle and dampers on the the brakes, but I’ve ran out of time, I’m going on vacation and I won’t be able to do any tests for a while.


These are the results between the different tire types and different braking balance adjustments, all done with abs0. The line indicates at what speed the Front/Rear wheels lockup and skid.

View attachment 192735

View attachment 192738

View attachment 192741


Here's a little test with the camber's effect on braking, I was going to do different Front and Rear settings but I ran out of time (and patience), Just look at the original and F/R =7 (front and rear set to 7) The difference is small, but there is one.
View attachment 192744




This is a test I did with abs1, the yellow line is with a brake balance of 10/10, and blue line is with a balance of 1/1, I was pretty close at braking at the same time, notice how much faster you stop with the 10/10 setting.

View attachment 192742

This test is with abs1 (yellow) and abs0 (blue), what I did was find the maximum values I could put on the abs0 before the wheels would lockup (values were 4/5) and use those with abs1 after. I was pretty close for the braking point, the abs1 has a slight advantage, but you can't give any more braking power to the abs0, while there is more room to increase the abs1 thus giving it more braking power and a shorter braking distance.
View attachment 192743


Personal opinion on brakes:

1) From now on I will always tune with the abs at 0, it’s easier to see if something is not working right, every change you make to the suspension is less attenuated then when you use abs1. (my opinion is always open to change if I see that this is not the best way)

2) Abs1 in theory will let you do faster laps, it is very hard to lockup the wheels with it, you can put much more braking pressure to the wheels and get shorter braking distances without having the tires heat up, thus giving you more grip on acceleration.

3) With abs0, if you tune your brakes to say SH, and you are one notch away from the wheel lockup threshold, putting any tire with lower grip will result with the wheels locking up, thus your window for different tires is much smaller than with abs1, the best thing when tuning the brakes for abs0 and getting the best braking power is to do it for one type of tire, it will work for the higher grip tires but you will not have the best results with those.

4) I am not a pro/con abs0 or abs1, both have got their qualities and defaults, abs0 demands more attention to the braking zones, mistakes are less forgiven but the satisfaction of controlling something a little more wild is more gratifying. Abs1 will let you get away with murder, you’ll make faster laps and enjoy a beautiful sunday drive on race track. (you’ll have time to read the side boards in the curves on the tracks)

5) On certain tracks where you don’t have to really brake hard, you can set the abs0 one notch over the lockup threshold to get a little more braking bite, the tracks that come to my mind are Suzuka East, Deep Forest, High Speed Ring, Cape Ring Inside.

6) The reason I chose to find where the wheels lockup is it gives me the maximum braking power I can load to the Front/Rear wheels, once you have this you adjust the balance to suit your driving needs. Because of weight distribution, weight transfer and suspension settings you will never get the front and rear wheels to lockup at the same value, at 5/5 the front is working more than the rear.

7) Lastly, remember that I’m not the best tuner, driver and by no means a brake expert, I don’t even know how to change them on my car, but I know how to open my door and put gas in it. These are just tests to see how brakes seem to work in GT6, thats all.

I haven’t done any test with racing tires or racing brakes, maybe when I’m able to drive my Toyota 7 with consistent lap times I’ll will make an update with those figures.


Just would like to say a little thank you to @Ridox2JZGTE 👍, thanks for sharing with me your precious time and knowledge on the matter, BTW, I’m now ready to continue my project with your NSX Type R’92, will give you some news soon, it’s your fault :mad: that it’s taking so much time, you should have never mentioned about abs0/abs1 settings on your post.
Have a great day every one, I'm leaving tomorrow for my much deserved vacation, but I will try to keep up using my i-pad when my wife is not looking:scared:. :cheers:.
PS. when I come back I will try to analyze the MLSD with some testing.
Click to expand...


https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/breaking-brakes.313894/
I quoted this part from the post above

Personal opinion on brakes:

1) From now on I will always tune with the abs at 0, it’s easier to see if something is not working right, every change you make to the suspension is less attenuated then when you use abs1. (my opinion is always open to change if I see that this is not the best way)

2) Abs1 in theory will let you do faster laps, it is very hard to lockup the wheels with it, you can put much more braking pressure to the wheels and get shorter braking distances without having the tires heat up, thus giving you more grip on acceleration.

3) With abs0, if you tune your brakes to say SH, and you are one notch away from the wheel lockup threshold, putting any tire with lower grip will result with the wheels locking up, thus your window for different tires is much smaller than with abs1, the best thing when tuning the brakes for abs0 and getting the best braking power is to do it for one type of tire, it will work for the higher grip tires but you will not have the best results with those.

4) I am not a pro/con abs0 or abs1, both have got their qualities and defaults, abs0 demands more attention to the braking zones, mistakes are less forgiven but the satisfaction of controlling something a little more wild is more gratifying. Abs1 will let you get away with murder, you’ll make faster laps and enjoy a beautiful sunday drive on race track. (you’ll have time to read the side boards in the curves on the tracks)

5) On certain tracks where you don’t have to really brake hard, you can set the abs0 one notch over the lockup threshold to get a little more braking bite, the tracks that come to my mind are Suzuka East, Deep Forest, High Speed Ring, Cape Ring Inside.

6) The reason I chose to find where the wheels lockup is it gives me the maximum braking power I can load to the Front/Rear wheels, once you have this you adjust the balance to suit your driving needs. Because of weight distribution, weight transfer and suspension settings you will never get the front and rear wheels to lockup at the same value, at 5/5 the front is working more than the rear.

7) Lastly, remember that I’m not the best tuner, driver and by no means a brake expert, I don’t even know how to change them on my car, but I know how to open my door and put gas in it. These are just tests to see how brakes seem to work in GT6, thats all.
Click to expand...
 
^ Your Feed RX7 is not using stock brakes, is it? Try your ABS-0 on controller in stock cars.

ABS1 is faster "in theory" IN THEORY! Not in application!

Later today I'll give ABS0 a go in the '06 S2000 on CM tires and see what best time I can do.
 
SuzukaStar
ABS1 is NOT faster than ABS0. It's just easier to get the fastest possible lap time. The fastest possible lap time is the same with ABS0 as it is with ABS10. If you don't believe me, try both, and I mean really try, give it 5 or 10 good laps and report back with the best times for both.

I'd say Dunlop Z1's are CM. And a wheel is always faster. Check the leaderboards of seasonals and the first controller user is nowhere near the top of the list.
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Samurai might disagree a wheel always being faster. Also, if ABS0 can be as fast as ABS1, has anyone ever won a time trial without using ABS?
 
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SuzukaStar
^ Your Feed RX7 is not using stock brakes, is it? Try your ABS-0 on controller in stock cars.

ABS1 is faster "in theory" IN THEORY! Not in application!

Later today I'll give ABS0 a go in the '06 S2000 on CM tires and see what best time I can do.
Click to expand...

I have been on ABS 0 since GT5 release day, I can drive stock cars on ABS 0 without any issue. The Feed RX7 has racing brakes kit, which make the brakes even more sensitive and easier to lock up.

Back in GT5 days, I was in a parity racing league, Deadnutseven Racing Club, where drivers are limited to qualify on lap time limit. There were ABS 0 drivers, me included, and we raced side by side, bumper to bumper without any issue against ABS 1 drivers. I've known so many ABS 0 drivers that can drive just as quick and consistent as ABS 1 driver. GT6 ABS 0 is much easier than back in GT5 :) GT6 cars now have brake bias parameter hidden, so even with 5/5, most cars have very front bias balance, while in GT5, the what you see is what you get, 5/5 means front and rear have same brake force applied :D

This is my recently built replica, MR2 AW11 on comfort hard, I can consistently lap in 1:15s range at Tsukuba with no assist using the curb weight + stock power spec. Standard brakes 5/5 BB.

Ridox2JZGTE
AMR Engineering/Cusco Toyota MR2 1600 G Limited Supercharger '86
Real World Setup - TRD Street Alignment

Tuned to replicate Cusco/AMR Engineering MR2 AW11 G-LTD SC
Stock GT6 Power and JDM Power + Dry/Base Weight and Curb Weight
Comfort Hard​




CAR : Toyota MR2 1600 G Limited Supercharger '86
Tire : Comfort Hard

Specs ( Curb Weight ) + Stock GT6 Power
Horsepower: 140 HP at 6500 RPM
Torque: 137.4 ft-lb at 4500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1182 kg - curb weight
Ballast : 112 kg
Ballast Position : 12
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as in real life ( 45.5%/55.5% ) replicated via ballast position.
Performance Points: 364


Specs ( Dry / Base Weight ) + Stock GT6 Power
Horsepower: 140 HP at 6500 RPM
Torque: 137.4 ft-lb at 4500 RPM
Power Limiter at : 100%
Weight: 1070 kg - dry/base weight
Ballast : 75 kg
Ballast Position : 17
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as in real life ( 45.5%/55.5% ) replicated via ballast position.
Performance Points: 371

Specs ( Dry / Base Weight ) + JDM Power
Horsepower: 143 HP / 145 PS at 6400 RPM
Torque: 140.1 ft-lb at 4700 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.2%
Weight: 1070 kg - dry/base weight
Ballast : 75 kg
Ballast Position : 17
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as in real life ( 45.5%/55.5% ) replicated via ballast position.
Performance Points: 375

Specs ( Curb Weight ) + JDM Power
Horsepower: 143 HP / 145 PS at 6400 RPM
Torque: 140.1 ft-lb at 4700 RPM
Power Limiter at : 98.2%
Weight: 1182 kg - curb weight
Ballast : 112 kg
Ballast Position : 12
Weight Distribution : 45 / 55 as in real life ( 45.5%/55.5% ) replicated via ballast position.
Performance Points: 368



GT AUTO
NO Oil change
Improve Body Rigidity ( NOT INSTALLED in this build )
Wheels : +1 Inch Up BBS-RS painted in Gold / Saddle Tan
Car Paint : Classic Red

Tuning Parts Installed :
Suspension Fully Customizable Kit
Adjustable LSD
Weight Reduction Stage 1 - For Dry weight figure.
Catalytic Converter Sports - For JDM Power Only


Suspension - AMR Engineering Coilover with Swift Springs 400/450 + Street TRD Specs Alignment
Front, Rear

Ride Height: 120 120
Spring Rate: 7.14 8.04
Dampers (Compression): 6 6
Dampers (Extension): 7 4
Anti-Roll Bars: 3 1
Camber Angle: 1.0 1.0
Toe Angle: 0.15 0.31


LSD - 2 Way Cusco RS LSD
Initial Torque : 22
Acceleration Sensitivity: 30
Braking Sensitivity: 30







Brake Balance:
5/5 ( personal BB) or for ABS 0 wheel : 4/4, for ABS 1 5/5 or feel free to use your preferred brake balance.

Recommended setting for DS3 user :
Steering sensitivity at +1 or +2, all aids off, except ABS 1 ( if not comfortable with ABS 0 ) with 5/5 brake balance as starting point.


Notes :

This is one of the MR car that I really like to drive. I have built this replica since release day, but only decided to post it now as it has comfort hard tire :D

The car is roughly based on an real MR2 AW11 that my mate used to own back in my college days. An old worn out MR2 MK1 with over 200,000km in red :lol: It was modified with AMR Engineering custom coilover utilizing swift springs and Cusco 2 way LSD to help with traction, the owner was learner licensed driver so no power mods allowed by his parents :lol:

For this build, I focused on stiffer springs to help the car stays more planted during high G cornering load. Springs are also chosen to balance the rear heavy car following similar approach in real life, closer rear rate to the front. Some AutoX / track MR2 MK1 even uses same rate or lower rear, depending on the rear sway bar usage and tires fitted.

Springs are 400 / 450 for the MR2, stiff but not bouncy. With damper setup for street/track and ARB to reduce oversteer on mid corner. Toe and camber alignment uses TRD street recommended range for their line of sports springs ( lowering and race ).

LSD uses 2 way, with high preload and medium lock to keep the little MR2 from dancing around too much :lol:

For power and weight, I have provided a multitude of choices, from GT6 stock power to JDM spec power and combination of dry/base weight + curb weight figures. For those wanted more realistic drive, use the curb weight figure and JDM spec power.

I mainly tested the car at Tsukuba and Bathurst :D It can easily run 1:15s at Tsukuba on comfort hard and curb weight spec :eek: Not bad for 140+ponies little car.


ENJOY :cheers:
Click to expand...


If you want to see how I drive without any assist, here is a post with a replay of mine attached, driving GPRM 86GT GT4 at Silverstone GP on SS tire, 5/6 B and racing brakes kit - no assist.

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...exusisf-nissangtr.294814/page-41#post-9842315
 
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I think it's interesting how these tire threads wind up turning into ABS discussions.

Either way, just for kicks I tried the ABS 10 setting a few times and I'm actually slower after using '0'. The '10' setting just seems to engage the brakes earlier and more strongly. I still think the cars are pre-programmed to replicate ABS even if you choose '0'. The ABS setting has to be an assist in my opinion. The only time I use ABS 1 is when I need an extra second or two, but it doesn't always help much.
 
I've never used ABS-0 in GT6 before, and the best I could do with the stock S2000 premium on CM tires is the same 2:35 that I got with ABS-1.

This proves that there is no significant advantage in overall lap time between ABS-0 and ABS-1. It just takes some modulation in preparation for taking a corner, that's all.

More realistic? Sure. Faster or slower? Not really.
 
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SuzukaStar
I've never used ABS-0 in GT6 before, and the best I could do with the stock S2000 premium on CM tires is the same 2:35 that I got with ABS-1.

This proves that there is no significant advantage in overall lap time between ABS-0 and ABS-1. It just takes some modulation in preparation for taking a corner, that's all.

More realistic? Sure. Faster or slower? Not really.
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If ABS0 and ABS1 had the same realistic lap time potential, then for sure someone would have taken a time trial or two without ABS just for the pat on the back. To my knowledge it's never happened. As stated earlier and in other threads, I think ABS in GT is doing more than just not locking the brakes but even if it's just that, there's no way a human can replicate the braking ability of ABS with just his feet, in videogame, where there's no tactile feel beyond some meagre feedback from his wheel.
 
I agree. All I'm saying is that ABS-1 makes the best possible lap time easier to get, but it doesn't make that time any faster or slower than ABS-0. It might take 2 or 3 laps to get a fantastic time with ABS-1, but perhaps an extra lap or two to get that time with ABS-0. Not always, but more often than not, it takes longer because it takes more concentration.

In real life of course there would be some time difference between the same car with ABS and lack of ABS, but this is a game and it doesn't work like that.
 
SuzukaStar
I agree. All I'm saying is that ABS-1 makes the best possible lap time easier to get, but it doesn't make that time any faster or slower than ABS-0. It might take 2 or 3 laps to get a fantastic time with ABS-1, but perhaps an extra lap or two to get that time with ABS-0. Not always, but more often than not, it takes longer because it takes more concentration.

In real life of course there would be some time difference between the same car with ABS and lack of ABS, but this is a game and it doesn't work like that.
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I'm sorry but your logic falls apart in the TT's. As I said, if all it takes is a couple of extra laps to achieve the same times without ABS, then surely someone in a TT would have run the usual dozens or hundreds of laps it takes to get a top time, without ABS, just for the accolades. To my knowledge it's never happened. It didn't happen in GT5 and I don't believe it's happened in GT6 even with a better noABS braking system.
 
What accolades? Ever heard of the phrase "work smarter, not harder?" I already proved the premium S2000 runs the same times on ABS-0 as ABS-1 so if it's easier on ABS-1 why not use it?
 
SuzukaStar
What accolades? Ever heard of the phrase "work smarter, not harder?" I already proved the premium S2000 runs the same times on ABS-0 as ABS-1 so if it's easier on ABS-1 why not use it?
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Accolades from the community, from fansites around the world. The people at the top of the leaderboards in TT's aren't running 5 or 10 laps they are running dozens, sometimes hundreds of laps. To do so without ABS would be legendary in the TT portion of the community. Most people think running without ABS is very difficult, if someone won a TT without ABS they'd be a virtual racing hero.
 
I haven't offered an opinion yet, so here it is. With most cars I've noticed no speed difference, just an ease of speed difference. I've driven cars which I felt were actually faster without ABS, although the only one that springs to mind is the AMG SLS in the special event in the dry in GT5, although in that game ABS made a car less willing to turn. In GT6 I've noticed a difference between ABS 1 and ABS 0 once, which was with the X2014 Junior of all things. It seemed that ABS 1 was capable of a few tenths faster at Streets of Willow, although it wasn't conclusive because I could have been locking up slightly and just not noticing because that car has monstrous grip. With such inconclusive evidence, I'm inclined to believe that any speed difference between on and off can be explained by driver error.

Is it at all possible that we could get back on topic at some point? All this ABS discussion gets bloody dull, especially when it takes over an unrelated thread.
 

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