My GT6 tyre philosophy

Zenmervolt - the point is that ABS don't work like that in real life!
A good representation of how ABS works is in, LFS, SHIFT, FORZA.
In Gt6 it just enables the player to floor brakes, have super stopping power without any negative repercussions! With ABS set to 0 you need to rethink your braking points, have a feel of how long to press or else you'll lock up, you also need to take into account weight shift so if you brake while turning you might lock up one side etc etc
It may not be perfect but it's closer to real life than 1!

Well, in my real life car with ABS the wheels have never locked even with full pressure on the brakes. They shudder a lot, which you do not get in gt6, but they do not lock. So being closer to real life is debatable, If you had no ABS on your car maybe. But at the moment I think we need something right down the middle of both systems.
 
I think the tyres in GT don't have accurate tyre physics at anything above CS. It's because gripper tyres in GT6 just increase the grip multipler. Thats why when you skid with sports soft or racing hard you still actually have a lot of grip compared to comforts for example. If the grip multiplier was variable while driving and it would drop every time you skid or lost grip then you'd end up with more realistic tyre physics.
 
I just noticed last night actually that running comfort class tires has ruined me for higher grades on most cars (non race). I did a race using SH and couldn't barely drive it. My turn in was too early on most corners and driving at the limit was a scary venture since the tires are just nowhere near as progressive as the comforts are.

Now, just yo contradict myself completely there are some cars that are so difficult to drive at speed on CS they just aren't any fun at all. I think it beautifully illustrates why PD sets the OE tires a little high.

Whether they are correct or not who cares, comfort tires really make the differences in track and car come alive and once you get used to it I believe it is far more fun and rewarding.


Oh, and one request, please Please PLEASE OP, stop using so many "!" and try ending some sentences with a "." it reads like you're either shouting everything or super excited about every word you say :cheers:
 
Oh, and one request, please Please PLEASE OP, stop using so many "!" and try ending some sentences with a "." it reads like you're either shouting everything or super excited about every word you say :cheers:

I sencerely apologise! As soon as I find some free time (hopefully this week) I'll edit my first post (make it more readable :P ) and probably add some lap times real vs virtual to prove my point.
Thank you for the kind remarks :D
 
@JMoney689 - I never said I have experience with only one car and one track! With same car I have also tried Toyo T1Rs and R1Rs! (Taking this with a grain of salt, the only way to explain the difference in grip is to go CM with R1R and CS with T1R)! Unfortunately, as the game does not provide us the real equivalent tyres we try to make do with what we have! Sonetimes the feeling of grip comes between two types available in game and sometimes you cannot tell or cannot be sure which one is closer to real life! As I said before, there are many more variants in real life that determine the grip a car has in a given day! What I'm trying to prove is that semi slicks and even slicks are still tyres and not rails! They have limits you can easily overcome and although they can mask some of your car's handling defficiencies the car still remains a hazard near the limit! Would you believe that a stock BMW CSL can easily burn out through SLICKS in corners if you are not careful? I'm talking about SLICKS - fully competition SLICKS like the ones race cars have! Check out this video with Costas driving the CSL with Slicks in Achna Speedway! Then check out this race prepped Suzuki Ignis with cheap Chinese Tyres - watch for about 1 min please and you'll see what I mean!
- even CH's are too much for it :D

Try BMW CSL with front sports medium and rear sports hard tires stock,change only the suspension with fully customisable set it exactly like the stock suspension except camber angle set to front 0.00 rear 0.00 and toe angle set to front 0.00 rear 0.00 ;)
 
Super_gt - thanks for the post! My answer above has a mistake! I meant CH for Toyos T1R not CS lol - CS is for the R888 GG compound (which is the hardest)!
 
When a car laps too fast, why do people point at the tires first? We know that some cars have too low of drag, cars only set at their dry weight, etc.
 
Super_gt - thanks for the post! My answer above has a mistake! I meant CH for Toyos T1R not CS lol - CS is for the R888 GG compound (which is the hardest)!
Try BMW CSL with my setup and see whether you like it 👍(it is fun to drive I promise)
 
When a car laps too fast, why do people point at the tires first? We know that some cars have too low of drag, cars only set at their dry weight, etc.

It's the most rectifiable possibility, it's only when there is easily obtainable cornering speed information that they're definitely the correct answer. Of course, if people were willing to put in a little time and thought they could limit the engine to get the same top speed and acceleration to find out which tyres are truly appropriate, but you'd still need professional racers to test it otherwise the driver's perception of their own skill level will render their results invalid.

The real problem, though, is that a lot of people believe they're faster than they are (may seem like what I just said, but there are those who believe they're slower), then test against Nordschleife lap times, a situation where the manufacturer will use professionals who have a lot of experience of the track, often use semi slicks that the road car will not even have as an option, and often don't state the finish line, with it sometimes having been run to the bridge on the main straight (where Jeremy Clarkson stopped the clock in the diesel Jaaaaag). That's where the masses get their screwy ideas about the GT-R and its ilk being designed to run on SMs. It seems that most cars in the game need CH-SH for realistic grip, if not realistic lap times. Anybody who bases tyre choice on times needs to re-evaluate their methods, and their driving.

Sorry, I got sidetracked. :D
 
NSX-R real-life Suzuka time is 2:34

My times:

SH - 2:19
CM - 2:28
CH - 2:34

Kurosawa could probably knock a few seconds off his time with more practice, so I'm leaning towards CM being the most realistic, at least for this one car...

 
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Honda NSX-R managed 1:05.05 at Tsukuba ( BM ), it will be tough to reach that on CH :) Need to also make sure the specs are according to real life, weight + distribution, alignment, spring rate, power and gearing.

My Nissan GTR replica can get very close on braking trap speed + cornering speed against Hattori run at Motegi Road Course - CS tire in GT6 - lap time also replicated.
 
Try BMW CSL with my setup and see whether you like it 👍(it is fun to drive I promise)

It would be fun to have my friend who really owns the BMW CSL (that i posted a video above )and takes it to track days, to come and try the CSL in GT6 and tell me what he thinks!
 
NSX-R real-life Suzuka time is 2:34

My times:

SH - 2:19
CM - 2:28
CH - 2:34

Kurosawa could probably knock a few seconds off his time with more practice, so I'm leaning towards CM being the most realistic, at least for this one car...



You just keep proving that the OP's tyre choices are correct :P
Haha - Seriously now, I don't know what the NSX's OEM tyres are so I'd go for CM!
;)
 
Accolades from the community, from fansites around the world. The people at the top of the leaderboards in TT's aren't running 5 or 10 laps they are running dozens, sometimes hundreds of laps. To do so without ABS would be legendary in the TT portion of the community. Most people think running without ABS is very difficult, if someone won a TT without ABS they'd be a virtual racing hero.
I'm pretty sure beau has been doing well in TTs without it. Last night before I went to bed, he was still leading with abs0 in the lotus TT. A lot of guys in the top 50 are using abs0.

I use abs1 with certain cars, because their are no FFB pedals yet, so it is still pretty unrealistic, even if you mod your pedal. All it is, is one less aid...sort of. ABS0 seems slower to me. I set my brake pressure to never lock anyways and it is clear that abs0 has more linear braking. ABS1 is still too sensitive and activates too easily. It may provide the ability to be more consistent, but it definitely slows you down. It is much more noticeable with very fast cars, where you are entering some braking zones at 180mph+. Abs1 seems to activate when the tires get hot towards the end of braking zones for me.

If I had better pedals, I would do abs0 with everything, but it just isnt practical or realistic me. Brake pedals in a car without abs have a distinct feeling when you are on the limit and most notably when you lock up. I would like to see someone figure out a signal to send from the FFB at the wheel a pedal. Not sure if that is possible or if the signals/ffb commands are split or one signal going into the circuit boards on the wheels.

I've been thinking about making a hydraulic pedal setup out of a bunch of old kart and car parts in the basement. I would be all over abs0 with every car in that case as well. I suppose it would somewhat be doing what I want anyways with a FFB.

Even still, you wouldn't feel brake fade either. That is my main issue with abs0. You can't feel fade or lock, which is incredibly unrealistic and makes things unpredictable. You end up relying on sound and a poor lock up simulation of ffb in the wheel. It just goes limp. It is hard for me to decide which is more unrealistic in gf6: 1 or 0.

Idk, I guess fade and total lack of predictability are my biggest issues with braking in gt6, which is why I just say screw it and use abs1 with some cars and tracks where I will be flying into braking zones.

Not much bothers me in gt6 other than issues pertaining to brakes. I expect faults to an extent. IRL, I prefer no ABS. My e36 doesn't have it after I did a motor swap and my first e46 didn't have it either...well, it was removed. I would probably classify my current tires as sport hards on my e36. I find it easier to recover from lockup IRL with most cars I driven hard without abs as well.

Even with abs1, you can't brake much more, if any, mid turn or upon entry. So, there really isn't much of an advantage, other than consistency. Sorry for the long winded post. It is just something that has disappointed me from the beginning. The darn fade and predictability. I've never heard of any sort of brake fade or temp modelling in gt6. Not sure if it described to be combatted by the "racing" brake kits, but it definitely isn't, unfortunately :( I'm sure they will work on tire temps (real temps, not one temp for the whole tire) and brake fade for gt7. ...The discs and pads cooking with gasses not being able to escape between the two, fluid overheating/boiling, etc. But yeah. If all that was modelled, even if it wasn't perfect, it would be worthwhile to me to use abs0 across the board.

Not saying anyone in this thread files into said sort of player category, but it seems that a lot of people use abs0, so they can say that they do. I also see a LOT of people claim they don't use abs on here...then I either see them online playing WITH abs/I just don't see many online playing without it in general.

There are drivers who are very, very fast with both abs0 and abs1...that's not because of abs. They're great drivers anyways and in real life as well. The people at the top of TT leaderboards for example. Most are using abs, but they are still incredible drivers. With or without ABS. There is no doubt about that. I don't mind admitting that I use abs1 often, given my reasoning, which I think are fair points/excuses IMO.
 
This thread got me thinking/questioning again yesterday. Even my own comment. I went back and adjusted a cars I used abs with. Not many changes need to be made, most of it was in the rear toe and slight front spring and alignment changes. Got off last night, couldn't fall asleep so I went back on and ran some laps for a couple hours around the ring with tire wear set to normal. ...I don't think I'm going back to abs. I think I'll have to eat some of my words from yesterday.

This is my new theory and I think I'm going to stick with it for quite a while - ABS1 is activating upon turn in. You can be certain by braking just the same and turning abs off with your current setup and brake bias. When the abs is activating, you're not getting the amount of braking you want, because the brakes are cutting in and out. When you balance off the bias and use abs0, suddenly you can use the amount of braking power you want. You know the bias is off or too high, if you're locking...or the setup is inadequate. With the bias correct and abs off, I could enter turns just the same and I could carry more speed into the turn, since the front weren't already slipping and catching due to the abs. I even found dragging an inside tire at times by mistake was still quicker than abs0.

I think people are setting their brakes too high at odd balances and aren't even aware. In the past I would bias to the rear largely, because I like to rotate the car as I dive into the apex off turn in, so I can get on the throttle earlier. Abs1 is great for this as it won't allow you to lose the rear on entry and under braking in just about every car but a few LMPs and RRs.

Another thing someone mentioned above is that the car has to be nice and stable upon entry with abs0 and that is not so. If you have a very solid setup, not true. A lot of it comes down to damper and toe settings.

If you run a lot of toe out, you're not going to have a good time for the most part without abs, unless you use a ton of decel lock to compromise, which will obviously lead to understeer at a point. I am a fan of toe out, so it has to be used wisely in my case.

Tl;Dr...if you set the car up from the get-go with abs0, it will taken you longer to tune the car, but the end result will be much better. Dial in the springs first, get some base damper and alignment settings down, then switch to abs zero and finish tuning from there.

I've been working on a little spring calculation from a compilation of all my tunes, that spits back numbers out of a simple little basic formula and it seems to get me in the ballpark. It takes net weight, downforce and weight distribution into account. I notice that with some cars, I'm off by a good 2kg, yet other cars...the quick calculation seemed to work spot on. So, it's also pretty clear to me that some chassis' are noticeably stiffer than others out of the box, which I never figured to be modelled in gt6. I'm dialing an is350 gt300 base model in right now and that chassis is very stiff, compared to other race cars I've been tuning lately. I generally stick to racing cars at this point for several reasons. Either way, it is definitely stiffer than any of the touring cars I've been screwing with lately and I would out the stock chassis rigidity on par with the SLS gt3...and that car is STIFF.

I find abs0 works better with stiffer chassis'. So, I would consider the chassis reinforcements. I started to shy away from it for a while, but I'm all for it again after go back to abs0 completely. The one car I need to get rock solid with on abs0 still is the lotus. I've always adjusted the brakes to the way I like to brake. Which is full force or damn near it and then trail. THAT took a bit to straighten out as I had to rework the setups a little...BUT, if you don't mind adapting to how you need to handle the balanced bias without abs, it takes next to no tweaks. Like I said, most of it was in the rear toe and front dampers...maybe a minor spring rate tweak. The problem is you don't want to compromise a setup so much, that the car has lost grip at the cost of dumping the use of abs. So, I happy medium needs to be sought.

So...yeah. IMO after going back to some things and a lot of thought last night...I'm fairly certain that abs0 is quicker, it again, with the correct bias and quite possibly changes to the setup...which will just have been weaknesses within it anyways.

Idk, I hope this helps a few people. Like I said, never going back and I just have minor mods of my own done to my pedals...no load cell. I did make my own progressive unit, though. It is not completely spring and I can't remember what I put below the spring now that would absorb/compress as well. With a load cell setup, abs zero would really shine. Even that gt-eye or whatnot spring will make it as well.

I started working on my own load cell set this morning, using g27 pedals. I was thinking it would be nice to have more affordable options for all Logitech pedal sets. I have a few between me and a buddy, so I hope we can come up with something that is more affordable than current load cell setups.

As far as I am concerned, it is an aid until you have a good setup. At that point it gets in the way and is counter productive, from what I am piecing together at the moment across several cars.
 
I went back and did a lot of testing last night and I've come to the conclusion that abs has been slowing me down, because with the correct bias, I am faster. The abs kicking in and out upon turn in wasn't allowing me to carry the amount of speed that I actually should be able to, because they're busy locking and unlocking AND pointing the car where you want to go...when I could just enter with them rolling beautifully into an apex. When they're busy fighting for traction, you're slipping up away from where you want to go, obviously. At minimum, you don't have the amount of traction to go where you want to go..at the pace of which you COULD go without abs and no disruption to the fronts.

So, yeah. I'm going to have to eat a couple of those words from yesterday. As far as I am concerned, it is an aid until you've got a solid setup, then it begins to slow you down.

There is definitely no show in using abs1, because there are a lot of things that still need to be modelled into the brakes and tires. In that respect, either way is unrealistic and I suppose it is down to the individual to decide which is the least of all evils in a sense. Hope this helps some people.

Best advise I've been given was to set the brakes to the number just below what they locked at before hand. But, understand that you may lock up at 4f/5r with the front, but when you go to 4/4, suddenly the fronts don't lock, because the bias is balanced out bewteen the brakes themselves and the car reacting. So, don't immediately go to dropping the pressure on whichever end is locking. In that same scenario, one would assume that if the front lock at 4/5, then it needs to be dropped to 3/5...and then you very well may find that the rears or both lock now. Just some thing I've been running into as I've been weeding through any cars I had setup solely with the use of abs.
 
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