600pp superGT

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I'll try again at Tokyo with the Weider set to 540PP today, only managed 2nd (late) last night.

I see Cargorat did it with 541PP so there is a mini challenge there, ha ha.

After that I am going to put Lewis Hamiltons (1st page) tune on my Nismo 06 and compare it to the Weider, I had always found it the best Super GT car.

And someone mentioned that a top notch LSD could be as good as using SRF. As I said I'm using Lewis's tune, LSD 15 25 20, so if there is a better LSD setting out there I'd like to try it, anyone?
 
I'll try again at Tokyo with the Weider set to 540PP today, only managed 2nd (late) last night.

I see Cargorat did it with 541PP so there is a mini challenge there, ha ha.

After that I am going to put Lewis Hamiltons (1st page) tune on my Nismo 06 and compare it to the Weider, I had always found it the best Super GT car.

And someone mentioned that a top notch LSD could be as good as using SRF. As I said I'm using Lewis's tune, LSD 15 25 20, so if there is a better LSD setting out there I'd like to try it, anyone?
LSD isn't as good as SRF regardless of the setup, but it allows for quicker, more efficient corner entry and exit and saves 1-2 seconds. It is a pseudo-SRF. SRF allows you to powerslide every corner and put a tire in the grass with no fear of spinning. LSD is more of a suspension part than a mystic force keeping the nose straight.

I'd rather learn to perfect my driving and tuning than win using SRF, but I play the game more than many as GT5 is the only reason I even own a PS3. I've put hundreds of hours into my ds3 driving skills and that isn't something everyone can do, so, unlike many here, I don't think any less of anyone who uses driving aides.

It can be won with 300hp, 524pp and no aides. The Weider is so good I wonder if it truly is me or the car. I'm not sure any other 524pp car could win it. Might have to give that a shot.
 
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Nismo 06

And someone mentioned that a top notch LSD could be as good as using SRF. As I said I'm using Lewis's tune, LSD 15 25 20, so if there is a better LSD setting out there I'd like to try it, anyone?

I don't know if the Nismo you're referring to is a GT-R or a Z, but regardless, the LSD should be closer to 10/15/5

It can be won with 300hp, 524pp and no aides. The Weider is so good I wonder if it truly is me or the car.

I still find the Takata to be superior in some cases, but maybe it's because the Weider doesn't have my personal tune on it... yet.
 
Quick question;
Do AI cars get different gear ratios and down force settings for differing tracks?
Or do they always run the same settings?
This is why an Arcade Indy race with the FGT is so disappointing. This also makes the A-spec FGT World Championship easier. Why the gearing isn't adjusted is a major gaffe.
 
Ran Tokyo with the Bandai Direzza SC430(never driven, but I drove the Petronas SC430 in the old seasonal) with minimal setup(at minimum downforce) at 550pp against the Nismo GT-R. Won on second attempt making the pass through the double rights before the final downhill to the straight.

Not sure why anyone has complained about the AI cheating on tires, unless the Nismo Z gets mediums. The others are all on hards.
 
Well, won at Tokyo with the Weider @ 540PP, won $2,132,240, (220440 exp) using Adrenaline's LSD, 10 15 5, and SRF.

I must admit it was the 7th starting line up as the previous 6 had the Nismo 06 or 08 on pole.
This one had the Yellowhat YMS Tomica in that spot. All the previous races I did between 600PP and 540PP had the Nismo starting on pole.

So I'll now try the Weider tune (Lewis's, at 540PP) on my Nismo 06 and see the difference, if any.
 
Well, won at Tokyo with the Weider @ 540PP, won $2,132,240, (220440 exp) using Adrenaline's LSD, 10 15 5, and SRF.

I must admit it was the 7th starting line up as the previous 6 had the Nismo 06 or 08 on pole.
This one had the Yellowhat YMS Tomica in that spot. All the previous races I did between 600PP and 540PP had the Nismo starting on pole.

So I'll now try the Weider tune (Lewis's, at 540PP) on my Nismo 06 and see the difference, if any.
Personally I'm not crazy about Lewis' tune for Tsukuba, Laguna Seca or Eifel (no offence, Lewis). It works very well for the Tokyo tracks as they are smooth as glass aside from the curbs. The other three are too bumpy for that setup to work to my liking. Tsukuba especially requires a setup a lot like Nurburgring.

Here's my suspension setup for 300hp and 1100kg:

Ride height: -3/-2
Springs: 13.7/13.3
Extension: 7/5
Compression: 5/5
ARB: 2/1

I run a little different Toe and Camber, but his works. And I probably use a bit more LSD than most. It comes down to preference.
 
Well that was educational. My Nismo 06 wasn't in the hunt at 540PP with Lewis's tune, or without it for that matter. Never tried the 08.

Got back in the Weider and what a difference. I have a new favourite.

Wasn't going to do any of the others at 540 PP, not now anyway, but will note your changes if/when I do. Thanks.
 
Well that was educational. My Nismo 06 wasn't in the hunt at 540PP with Lewis's tune, or without it for that matter. Never tried the 08.

Got back in the Weider and what a difference. I have a new favourite.

Wasn't going to do any of the others at 540 PP, not now anyway, but will note your changes if/when I do. Thanks.
The Xanavi Nismo Z '06 is the car in question. It comes stock, before oil change, with over 600pp. The '08 is like all the other '08's.
 
Personally I'm not crazy about Lewis' tune for Tsukuba, Laguna Seca or Eifel (no offence, Lewis). It works very well for the Tokyo tracks as they are smooth as glass aside from the curbs. The other three are too bumpy for that setup to work to my liking. Tsukuba especially requires a setup a lot like Nurburgring.



No offense taken, everyone has their own tastes. I've personally used the very same tune on the Nurb dozens of times, but it's what works for me.

Generally, all of my tunes no matter the drivetrain (FF, FR, MR, RR, 4WD), are aimed at my particular driving style: Widest possible approach, deep into the apex, a little slip from the rear and very early acceleration out of the corner.

I tend to abuse toe numbers and weight distribution more than any other suspension setting. I like a car with a sharp turn in, that looses the rear slightly so that the front turns in hard, and toe settings so that the front and rear wheels grip best on corner exit.

It does tend to make cars a little bit light/unstable on straight sections, but it's no problem to me. I'm thinking about opening my own "Garage" in the tuning forum soon, have lots of fun track day cars too.
 
Well that was educational. My Nismo 06 wasn't in the hunt at 540PP with Lewis's tune, or without it for that matter. Never tried the 08.

Got back in the Weider and what a difference. I have a new favourite.

Wasn't going to do any of the others at 540 PP, not now anyway, but will note your changes if/when I do. Thanks.
The Honda's are your best bet. They are the fastest GT500 cars. The PP may be the same, but they perform better than the rest.
 
No offense taken, everyone has their own tastes. I've personally used the very same tune on the Nurb dozens of times, but it's what works for me.

Generally, all of my tunes no matter the drivetrain (FF, FR, MR, RR, 4WD), are aimed at my particular driving style: Widest possible approach, deep into the apex, a little slip from the rear and very early acceleration out of the corner.

I tend to abuse toe numbers and weight distribution more than any other suspension setting. I like a car with a sharp turn in, that looses the rear slightly so that the front turns in hard, and toe settings so that the front and rear wheels grip best on corner exit.

It does tend to make cars a little bit light/unstable on straight sections, but it's no problem to me. I'm thinking about opening my own "Garage" in the tuning forum soon, have lots of fun track day cars too.
I am intrigued by your Toe settings. I've always used a negative Front and positive Rear number with the Rear being closer to 0 than the Front. The difference was very slight, if any, between the two with my lap times at Tsukuba. But yours did seem a bit more free on entry.
 
No offense taken, everyone has their own tastes. I've personally used the very same tune on the Nurb dozens of times, but it's what works for me.

Generally, all of my tunes no matter the drivetrain (FF, FR, MR, RR, 4WD), are aimed at my particular driving style: Widest possible approach, deep into the apex, a little slip from the rear and very early acceleration out of the corner.

I tend to abuse toe numbers and weight distribution more than any other suspension setting. I like a car with a sharp turn in, that looses the rear slightly so that the front turns in hard, and toe settings so that the front and rear wheels grip best on corner exit.

It does tend to make cars a little bit light/unstable on straight sections, but it's no problem to me. I'm thinking about opening my own "Garage" in the tuning forum soon, have lots of fun track day cars too.

do it, you drive in a style that suits me well.

p.s. have you ever tried a sega arcade racer like scud racer or one of the daytonas. thats the driving style used in these games, except you drift in corners in these games.
 
crowhop
I am intrigued by your Toe settings. I've always used a negative Front and positive Rear number with the Rear being closer to 0 than the Front. The difference was very slight, if any, between the two with my lap times at Tsukuba. But yours did seem a bit more free on entry.

When you say its more 'free' on entry, do you mean more responsive? From my experience, that's what toe-out(on the front end) should do. I haven't ever tried toe-in on the front end.
 
Used the Yellowhat YMS Supra '05 with 575pp and had a lot of fun! Only the Eiffel was a really big challenge! I used this car before for another race with a really good tune of someone else but forgot who (credits to him anyway, what a car!) and just down tuned to 575pp.
 
No offense taken, everyone has their own tastes. I've personally used the very same tune on the Nurb dozens of times, but it's what works for me.

Generally, all of my tunes no matter the drivetrain (FF, FR, MR, RR, 4WD), are aimed at my particular driving style: Widest possible approach, deep into the apex, a little slip from the rear and very early acceleration out of the corner.

I tend to abuse toe numbers and weight distribution more than any other suspension setting. I like a car with a sharp turn in, that looses the rear slightly so that the front turns in hard, and toe settings so that the front and rear wheels grip best on corner exit.

It does tend to make cars a little bit light/unstable on straight sections, but it's no problem to me. I'm thinking about opening my own "Garage" in the tuning forum soon, have lots of fun track day cars too.

You should. I have used your tunes before when I've been too lazy to tune my own. Have used a few of your tunes with great success. Your driving style is an exact clone of mine so your tunes fit me perfectly.
 
I've included my setup, which works on all tyre ranges and all circuits. It has a sharp turn in, feels light and loose yet has tremendous grip that just keeps giving. Change the brake bias to F4/R8 if you are using ABS.

The setup also works perfectly at 600PP too, just up both front and rear aero by 10 each, and then increase the power until you reach 600PP.



hondahsvtokyo_zpsc9c51827.jpg

Your setup worked perfectly for me too in all events, thanks mate. ;)
 
OK... total newbie question... doe LewisH tune ups on my Honda, won the first race... but howcome my PP is rising every race I finish??? Probably already answered hundreds of times, but I haven't the mood to search...
 
If it's a new car it will gain power as the engine breaks in, and yes, it has been asked and answered a few times. :)
 
I was able to finish all the races, save Tokyo, comfortably with 580PP with the Honda Weider HSV. I don't have much tuning done to it. It's more so some tweaking. It is so great stock that there isn't much that you need to change in my opinion. Though, I've been meaning to try out some tunes for it just to see if I like them. I think Pariano has one for it.

Tokyo is usually my downfall in races. I am so bad at the track. It's hard to drive a consistent driving line in Tokyo for me.
 
I didn't used to like Tokyo but now I love it. It has a rhythm and once you get that, it's fun. I've run this seasonal with Nissans, Hondas, Toyotas and the single Lambo and it's a lot of fun. On Tokyo, only brake at the end of the long straight and before the final corner. For the rest, just let off the gas and then power after you get a grip again. On the long curve, hug the wall, don't go wide. For the little jog on the back straight, don't let off until you know you might hit the right wall. With any of the listed cars you should be able to win, no matter what the lead cars are. You don't need any tunes on this seasonal, just drive smoothly and have some fun. No need for gear changes or anything like that. Just drive.
I was able to finish all the races, save Tokyo, comfortably with 580PP with the Honda Weider HSV. I don't have much tuning done to it. It's more so some tweaking. It is so great stock that there isn't much that you need to change in my opinion. Though, I've been meaning to try out some tunes for it just to see if I like them. I think Pariano has one for it.

Tokyo is usually my downfall in races. I am so bad at the track. It's hard to drive a consistent driving line in Tokyo for me.
 
Alrighty, this is kinda torquing me off. I have been trying to beat Tsukuba for the past 4 hours and the best I can get is 2nd. I have tried these cars...all second place finishes.

Tom's Supra
Xanavi Nismo GT-R
HSV-010

I have tried posted tunes (first time ever) as well as my own tunes but slap my ass and call me Suzie, I cannot get within 6 seconds of the stupid rabbit ('06 Nismo Z). I have entered and exited the race 50 times but that darned Z is in every race:grumpy:
 
Alrighty, this is kinda torquing me off. I have been trying to beat Tsukuba for the past 4 hours and the best I can get is 2nd. I have tried these cars...all second place finishes.

Tom's Supra
Xanavi Nismo GT-R
HSV-010

I have tried posted tunes (first time ever) as well as my own tunes but slap my ass and call me Suzie, I cannot get within 6 seconds of the stupid rabbit ('06 Nismo Z). I have entered and exited the race 50 times but that darned Z is in every race:grumpy:

I used my NSX tune, and ran it at 539pp and took the lead from the Nismo on lap 8. Seems you only need to average 1:56 per lap to win, and with the car at 539pp I was running low 54.9's.
The car is rather loose, but believe it or not, with Race Hard tires, the car gets easier to control with less power and I was actually running smoother and more consistent.

I don't recommend going down as far as I did, it was just out of boredom, but I'd suggest trying at like 575 and see if you run better laps, with increased control.
My tune works on either the 03 Takata or Mobil One NSX, and is listed as 'AdrenaTune' under the Takata in the GT500 section of the website in my sig.
 
That 'darned Z 06' is in every race, along with the GTR 08 sometimes, until about the 7th time you stop and re start.

I discovered this when I wanted to win at 540PP, couldn't do it with the Nismo in the lead.

To be sure of a win, or at least give yourself the best chance to do so, make sure your PP is at 600, no Traction Control and use Skid Recovery Force. Of course driving the HSV.

"Adrenaline" has suggested dropping the PP which should allow you to drive harder into and out of corners.

Definitely worth a go. I should have mentioned that my 540PP win was at Tokyo, haven't tried it at Tsukuba yet. Good luck Machinist, let us know how you travel.
 
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Thanks guys. I put the controller down and walked into the other room. When I was gone, my wife and son took over the 55" and are now playing the Wii U. I will give your suggestions a shot when I can get the T.V. back.
 
Ok got this done. Gonna try and lower the pp a bit. Hope I don't gave to resort to srf!!
 
What does "srf" stand for?

Also, just won by .354 seconds at Tsukuba! I took camber out and flopped the toe setting front to rear.

Skid Recovery Force, helps you to go faster around corners. Prevents the car from skidding out so much.

If you try it without and then with it, you'll certainly notice the difference.

Congrats for the win, keep it up.
 
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Skid Recovery Force, helps you to go faster around corners. Prevents the car from skidding out so much.

If you try it without and then with it, you'll certainly notice the difference.

Congrats for the win, keep it up.

Ah, I see. I have all driving aids turned off, except ABS set at 2.
 
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