Originally posted by hondaaccord15
next time u tell any1 that they dont know nuthin bout cars, learn what they do for a livin
Next time you're going to pretend you do something for a living, make sure you know sumthin about it!
Here's my wife's car. '95 Neon with a 2.4l DOHC swap out of a '96 Stratus. Stock, 75,000 mile Neon 3-speed automatic trans. Head decked .040" and gasket-match ported to IT specs (no more than 1" in, dem's da rules). I had help fabbing the engine mounts because I can't weld, and I didn't deck the head because I don't have a Bridgeport available since my dad died. But I did the porting and some of the modifications to the mounts that I had tools for, plus I made of modified all the accessory brackets for the swap. It's got PS, A/C, and cruise control still working after the swap. It was originally a 2.0 SOHC car, and the 2.4 is a DOHC, and the Stratus engine controller won't run without a chassis computer as well, so I ended up going with a DOHC/ATX engine controller out of a '95 Neon Sport Coupe. Which meant I had to run 24# injectors to get enough fuel (turns out Bosch ones from a Mustang fit) and figure out how to time the spark with the valvetrain since the cam magnets on the 2.4 are 90 degrees off where they are located on the 2.0 cams. That was easy enough, but required rigging the fuel injector harness so that valves, spark, and gas all arrived in the right place at the right time. Then I had to figure out where to put the MAP sensor since the '95 SOHC has a bung for it in the intake manifold, and the '96 DOHC doesn't even have one. Easy enough since I
did put a cold air intake on it; I just bunged it into the side of the inlet pipe and extended the sensor harness to reach. That prettty much solved all the problems, and the car runs great except for throwing an occasional EGR failure code under certain conditions. But it passes emissions even with the code showing so I'm not to worried about it.
Catch any of that? Then explain to me again how you have "headers" on a turbocharged, straight-4 engine.
Even with a loose, 75,000-mile 3-speed automatic that really needs a fluid change and to have the bands tightened, it will run high 15's all day long at full weight, on cheap street tires, with a full tank and a 250-lb driver. That's with a "stoplight start", meaning just taking my foot off the brake and mashing the gas when the tree drops. 60-foot times in the 2.6-2.7 second range. No left foot braking, no preloading. Just like I drive it on the street.
Total cost? $1,200 for the swap, including all experimentation and mistakes. If I were you I'd be embarrassed to pretend that you spent $12,000 on an engine and only got "at least" 200 hp out of it. Nobody drops that kind of coin with taking the car to a dyno or at least the strip to have a go. post some timeslips.
It's 14 degrees F here, and dark out, so I'm not taking a new picture right now. But tell me what you want the sign to say, and I'll post it here within 24 hours.
