BODY RIGIDITY DETERIORATES WAY TOO FAST

  • Thread starter dixonbaps
  • 294 comments
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OdeFinn
Lol, when had small moment from daughter went and tried a lap, was wondering how fast you were when 1:40 was gone, thought at maybe time was wrong, drove a lap, recorded it and now here.. Wrong track, I tested on Bathurst same car, oil change 600hp, full stock, default brakes, "standard" on 5/5 bias was only difference on car. :)
All aids off, and still forget that "gear adviser", it's meaningless for me and that why it's still there.
Try to lap that Brands Hatch GP later, there's the lap from Bathurst instead at this time.

Just noticed at this s again going totally OT..
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If you try that with the stick, I think it would a lot harder to do the same lap time with the same setup, not saying you can't do the lap or better it with the stick, but you might struggle with the steering, gas and brake smoothly. I have tried GT6 with steering wheel at a mate's house ( G27 ), it's damn a lot easier for me to steer, gas and brake accurately. With the stick, I have to be very precise and smooth, especially with MR cars that tends to be twitchy. I tried the Bathurst too when I 1st got the Diablo, I got around 2:25s in my warm up lap, that was with slow 1st sector of 21.0xx and messy last sector. My best 1st sector was 20.6 second.

Okay, just had a look at my replay, got 2:24.6 actually :) I can see 2:23s, and maybe 2:21 with a wheel. Wheel usually faster, I had a hard time keeping the steering smooth with stick, very tricky with the last half of Bathurst.
 
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@Ridox2JZGTE, So you can easily push 3secs faster time from the scratch, and there is a room for lot of improvement, can't promise that on my own situation, have been driving that Diablo ~20km now and maybe few sec can be taken from that time(?) what I got from scratch, had to grind a bit with that car to check out.
Accelerator usage on that video; there is not much room to push harder, it starts skidding so easily, and on cornering rear will slip out also easily if pushing harder.. gotta go and see what improvements can be done easy.
DS3 forgives much more on pedals (gas/brake) comparing to wheel, my brakings on that video were almost all times locking-opening-locking-opnenig style balancing on full lock edge, half of that times same was happening on accelerations with gas pedal struggling against rear swingger.
I have 0 possibilities on DS3 for driving that, hate even idea of driving with it, not suitable for me.
We need a new thread, under some proper topic, we're wandering on wrong topic at this point.
 
Im gonna ask this. Could the Body deterioration be down to the massive body roll/weight movements thats happening in game? Numbers cod be due to high stress on the body because of a wrong calculation on PDs end?
 
Hi all. I've noticed that the exact phrasing of the condition is "body rigidity has begun to deteriorate". Begun, being the key word here. And the indicator in the pit service page is yellow/orange, not red, I expect the indicator turn red when the condition is really serious. I'm gonna see how long (miles) it takes for the body to be totally shot. I've noticed, my oil change indicator, by the speedo, doesn't light up even though it says, I should change my oil in the pit window.
 
Youngun
Im gonna ask this. Could the Body deterioration be down to the massive body roll/weight movements thats happening in game? Numbers cod be due to high stress on the body because of a wrong calculation on PDs end?
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It may for the smaller lower pp cars but for LMP and GT cars there is little weight transfer from axel to axel, wheel to wheel. Idk but that's food for thought
 
Update on my McLaren bmw f1. I 1st noticed handling issues at panorama, car not holding straight line over bumps, skittering thro corners etc. Checked pit services and baulked at paying 500k cr for fix. So bought and used other cars to get thro to end of game. Found a few new favourites so all's good. Anyway, decided to try F1 at a smooth track, Silverstone, and it was canny predictable and held a true enough line. Then compared it on other smooth vs bumpy tracks. Then did same in new HSV010. Then had a smoke, and thought, that's a lot of computer modelling for a £40 game. Conclusion- Still think repair prices too high. In original post said 20k cr, revise that to 50k cr. Has to be some price for all that research. :-)
Happy new year everyone.
 
Yeah noticed my Ruf was handling weird last night. Thought I was getting tired and loosing it. Nope, restored and was back to normal. I really hate this part of the simulation process. PD just take out all this stuff. We don't need it. It's not fun at all and very annoying.
 
I remember feeling this with my R18. With a bit more than 600km it started to get really wired, that rear just couldn't stay in place. The yellow warning was there. The smallest steering input during acceleration would just make the car spin.
Even though, the car now has 780km and it seems to oversteer less. Might be just me, but I felt a difference.
 
Rigidity does not deteriorate too quickly. It's exactly the same as GT5.

When it says "body rigidity has begun to deteriorate" it simply means that there may be, say, 2% body wear. It does not mean that the body is totally fatigued.

I've driven my R18 about 1,000 miles and have yet to feel any difference in the handling. If you feel some difference in the handling after 300 miles, it isn't being caused by the rigidity deteriorating.


People may remember GT4, how after about 50 miles you could buy the "rigidity refresh", even though your car wouldn't need it for another 2,000. It's similar here, except it actually deteriorates even slower than GT4.
 
I think what needs to be said is that the "improve" body rigidity does not mean it will help fix it, but rather it's the old chassis reinforcement from Gran Turismo 5 located somewhere else...
 
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned (sorry to many posts to sift through) but I believe the distance for oil change and body deteriation may have been accidentaly swapped around. To me 300+ miles in a race car understandably worth changing or 300+ miles in a street car pushed to its limits, hell yeah I'd be changing the oil.

Currently the change oil notification comes to late after far too many Miles in my opinion.
 
Mirage357
I'm not sure if this has been mentioned (sorry to many posts to sift through) but I believe the distance for oil change and body deteriation may have been accidentaly swapped around. To me 300+ miles in a race car understandably worth changing or 300+ miles in a street car pushed to its limits, hell yeah I'd be changing the oil.

Currently the change oil notification comes to late after far too many Miles in my opinion.
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Yes it's already been mentioned, but I'm glad to know that there's more people making this realization themselves without learning about it first from this thread. This hypothesis seems to be getting more and more accurate by the week.
 
Just checked in after a while...

So for the R8 LMS we have one that notices a lot of difference and another one does not fell changes.
Also a few complaints about R18 and Speed8, while i can't feel a real issue with my V12 LMR (all three are compareable LMP's)

Maybe it is the suspension setup ?
I suggested earlier on to try the settings of the V12 LMR on the R18 or Speed 8 (posted them a few days ago here).

Maybe some cars have a setup that is somewhat close to unstable and this "rigidity thing" puts them over the edge.
Must not be the car itself, also possible that the suspension creates strange force feedback that cause you problems.
(Search for Pilot-induced oscillation in google/yt to get what i mean)
 
hsv010
I think this is the issue. PD have confused the two. In GT5, it was at the 300 - 350 mile mark that my oil went off. The restore rigidity only became effective on cars that had done 10,000 miles +. I think we all really need to get this message to PD and get it sorted fast - it's not a big job, i'm sure they could produce a patch in a day for this.
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I´ve done some testing, mileage wise, can´t speak for the "handling problems" yet but I´ll get to it. I´m with what hsv010 and others suggest. I believe oil and body rigidity measures are in fact swapped.

First I took a Range Rover Evoque and put as many km on it as I could. When I reached 5,000km the oil light went on.

After reading this whole thread I made another test with a 2013 Jimmie Johnson Chevrolet SS Nascar, this time to see when exactly the body rigidity starts to deteriorate. It does so at exactly 500km!

So, 5,000km until the Oil starts to deteriorate and 500km for the body rigidity. Hmmm looks like its swapped to me.

Here are two photos, although in german, you´ll see the middle icon (body rigidity) at 498km is green, and 500km is yellow:

DSC_0180[1].jpg DSC_0182[1].jpg
 
Flaco13
View attachment 94614 View attachment 94613

I´ve done some testing, mileage wise, can´t speak for the "handling problems" yet but I´ll get to it. I´m with what hsv010 and others suggest. I believe oil and body rigidity measures are in fact swapped.

First I took a Range Rover Evoque and put as many km on it as I could. When I reached 5,000km the oil light went on.

After reading this whole thread I made another test with a 2013 Jimmie Johnson Chevrolet SS Nascar, this time to see when exactly the body rigidity starts to deteriorate. It does so at exactly 500km!

So, 5,000km until the Oil starts to deteriorate and 500km for the body rigidity. Hmmm looks like its swapped to me.

Here are two photos, although in german, you´ll see the middle icon (body rigidity) at 498km is green, and 500km is yellow:
View attachment 94613
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Can everyone on Twitter give Kaz a quick tweet about this? Interesting to see if a mass tweet of info will get a response.
 
Flaco13
I´ve done some testing, mileage wise, can´t speak for the "handling problems" yet but I´ll get to it. I´m with what hsv010 and others suggest. I believe oil and body rigidity measures are in fact swapped.

First I took a Range Rover Evoque and put as many km on it as I could. When I reached 5,000km the oil light went on.

After reading this whole thread I made another test with a 2013 Jimmie Johnson Chevrolet SS Nascar, this time to see when exactly the body rigidity starts to deteriorate. It does so at exactly 500km!

So, 5,000km until the Oil starts to deteriorate and 500km for the body rigidity. Hmmm looks like its swapped to me.

Here are two photos, although in german, you´ll see the middle icon (body rigidity) at 498km is green, and 500km is yellow
Click to expand...

Make that scientific witness #3. Perhaps a thread title change is in order at this point.

And yes we definitely need to bring this to attention - we seem to be the only group on the Internet discussing the issue.
 
Sier_Pinski
Make that scientific witness #3. Perhaps a thread title change is in order at this point.

And yes we definitely need to bring this to attention - we seem to be the only group on the Internet discussing the issue.
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The thing is, this only concerns the GT Service indicating that it is deteriorating.
The actual oil deterioration is exactly the same as it was in GT5: after about 200km, your car will start to lose hp. The GT Service just won't tell you till much later, just as in GT5.

Obviously it's not nearly as easy to say if it's the same with body rigidity.
 
Ridox2JZGTE
If you try that with the stick, I think it would a lot harder to do the same lap time with the same setup, not saying you can't do the lap or better it with the stick, but you might struggle with the steering, gas and brake smoothly. I have tried GT6 with steering wheel at a mate's house ( G27 ), it's damn a lot easier for me to steer, gas and brake accurately. With the stick, I have to be very precise and smooth, especially with MR cars that tends to be twitchy. I tried the Bathurst too when I 1st got the Diablo, I got around 2:25s in my warm up lap, that was with slow 1st sector of 21.0xx and messy last sector. My best 1st sector was 20.6 second.

Okay, just had a look at my replay, got 2:24.6 actually :) I can see 2:23s, and maybe 2:21 with a wheel. Wheel usually faster, I had a hard time keeping the steering smooth with stick, very tricky with the last half of Bathurst.
Click to expand...
With stronger stick springs it will be much easier to drive,i don't know why SONY do not do that.
 
I hit the body rigidity began to deteriorate thing with my Mclaren F1 and for the life of me I cannot discern any difference in the handling whatsoever, only one car but so far it's the same car to me.
 
I have had the body deteriorate message on a car before. I had no handling difference! However the oil life is still the same(give or take) as in GT5. I lost hp after 137 miles in a brand new nascar.

To be honest, I do not remember GT5 telling us about our chassis. Did it?
 
JuiceMcGoose
Since I was the first one to come up with the idea that they switched the body rigidity time limit with oil change...

https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...rates-way-too-fast.292723/page-2#post-9066118

I think PD should award me with a prize...like a Tootsie Roll or something.
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I am personally not yet able to tell when the body rigidity goes, but I have watched my HP/PP steadily drop 30/8 (roughly; I don't recall the exact numbers) on the NASCAR Twin Ring race at less than 200 miles on an oil change, and those numbers went back to "normal" once I did the oil change. The Pit Service Oil Change light was green and the associated text indicated it was in good condition.

So, while body rigidity may be off, the oil change does not have the degradation properties that body rigidity should have.
 

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