- 1,521
- Seixal
- zefthebestofcour
CSL update - blue mode
- Thread starter oldphart
- 429 comments
- 55,836 views
- 7
- Australia
Thanks for the tip @Mirror_man much appreciated! I'll give it a go... have only had the one session on the wheel so far and did not reboot it during the session. I'll try the reboot tip next session if the same thing happens. Cheers!
- 1,521
- Seixal
- zefthebestofcour
My T-GT is dead
and I'm thinking of a CSL ELITE
Thinking about the future, maybe a FIA Gran Turismo face-to-face. Does anyone have a setting that makes it look as close to a T-GT as possible? Or at least a T300? If you come to an event one day, you will not need to learn or get used to it all again. At least this is a difficulty for Fanatec players, or not so much?
and I'm thinking of a CSL ELITE Thinking about the future, maybe a FIA Gran Turismo face-to-face. Does anyone have a setting that makes it look as close to a T-GT as possible? Or at least a T300? If you come to an event one day, you will not need to learn or get used to it all again. At least this is a difficulty for Fanatec players, or not so much?
Groundfish
(Banned)
- 4,363
- United States
My friend let me try his Fanatec csl with load cell brake.
It’s awesome. Pedals are awesome ffb is awesome. Quality awesome.
Awesome awesome awesome.
It’s awesome. Pedals are awesome ffb is awesome. Quality awesome.
Awesome awesome awesome.
- 1,521
- Seixal
- zefthebestofcour
My T-GT is dead
Why in the Hell shhould a guy ever want settings for a Fanatec CSL to feel like T-GT???? That´s like saying.. "Please, please!! I want to keep feeling like the donkey that I am and not like a pure blood racing horse!!!
Why in the Hell shhould a guy ever want settings for a Fanatec CSL to feel like T-GT???? That´s like saying.. "Please, please!! I want to keep feeling like the donkey that I am and not like a pure blood racing horse!!!
if the person could take his wheel in the championship ... but we know that the FIA GRAN TURISMO is not like that ... only T-GT.
- 7
- Australia
Hi All, as a Fanatec noob, just though I'd provide some feedback which others might find useful.
Warning, this is a longish post!.
First off many thanks to @Mirror_man the reboot trick fixed the disappeared negative values for DRI, for anyone else out there, it seems sometimes not all DRI settings are available in which case a simple reboot of the base will restore the DRI settings.
Secondly another thank-you to @Mirror_man for his settings, I used these as a baseline and found them to be an excellent foundation to work from.
Now for my feedback which should be taken in context, I only play GT Sport with everything off except for ABS on default and I generally only drive Gr.3 and Gr.4 cars, their my goto favourites. The equipment I'm using is a Playseat Challenge with a CSL Elite PS4 base, Clubsport Formula Rim and CSL Elite Load Cell Pedals with the shore 65 elastomer spring and I'm running Driver 311 (476 Base and 18 Motor). Others may find my feedback different to their own experience due to differences such as firmware or using a Rim which is heavier and has a larger diameter for example.
As has been posted in various forums, the LC brake pedal is extremely sensitive, I like to rest my foot gently on it and this will engage the brake, it literally requires a feather touch to active the brake. The throttle on the other hand has roughly about a 5% dead zone. Using the PC driver, setting a 5% dead zone on the LC pedal will correct the sensitivity issue and will be permanently stored so is effective once connected back to the PS4.
Now for the fun stuff, here are the settings I've now settled on and you will notice their are very much @Mirror_man 's settings with basically only a few 'tweaks' that personally suit me :
GTS CSENS -2
GTS FFBT +4
GTS FFBS +10
SEN +60
FF +95
SHO +100
ABS +100
DRI OFF
FOR +100
SPR +100
DPR +60
BRF +30
FEI +30
GTS CSENS -2 --> There seems to be some debate around whether GTS Controller Sensitivity makes a difference on a wheel, while it may be a placebo effect, I felt that using -2 rather than +7 gave a more progressive smoother feel to the car. Note I said to the car, it makes zero difference to the feel of the Fanatec setup but 'seemed' to ever so slightly smooth or average out my inputs making for smoother laps, like I said this maybe placebo and just simply getting more used to the wheel (I'm still a noob with only maybe 5hrs under my belt on this setup so far).
GTS FFBT +4 and FF +95 --> I decided to go a little heavier on the GTS Force Feedback Torque simply because it gave me a more pronounced feel for what the car was doing on long sweepers, this higher setting give me a similar feeling to that the loadcell where I can tell by the FF whether I'm on the correct line and at the correct speed by the FFB itself, this mostly applies to long sweeping turns. That said +4 is a little too heavy, ideally I'd like a +3.5 setting, so as a result I'm using +95 on the wheel FF to get to that +3.5 feeling. Depending on the car / track I'm using anything from +90 to +100.
BRF +30 --> Maybe because of the Playseat Challenge, or the brand spanky new pedals, I found +30 to be a nice value where I could reliably get to 100% brake using left foot braking, +40 was a tad to high where I notice I wasn't always reaching 100% (watching the replays I quickly picked up on this).
FEI +30 --> I have no issues with FEI at this value, the wheel is smooth as silk and the is no 'clacking' as some users have mentioned.
DRI OFF --> I tend to favour rear wheel drive torquey Gr.3 and Gr.4 cars such as the Vette, Viper, AMG you get my drift (pun intended) as a result this is a key value for me and after messing with every setting from -5 to +5 I finally settled on OFF which gives me enough speed/control/feeling to catch a slide and counter steer out of it (impossible with a G29).
Final Thoughts : The Fanatec setup is amazing! Well worth three times the cost of a G29... While I primarily played on the DS4 i did have the G29 but rarely used it as I was simply not competitive with it, I was usually a few seconds slower than the DS4. With the Fanatec I was competitive straight out of the box running equivalent times to the DS4 and I'm now shaving seconds off my PB's on DS4. The feedback provided by the fanatec is sensational, the G29 had no real feedback, for me it pretty much provided some vague force and a bit of rattle over curbs. The fanatec provides such a wide variety of feedback which gives you so much more information to work with, not only do you get to feel what is happening with the road, but more importantly, with the car. You can actually feel under steer and over steer and all this feedback/information is without a doubt why my lap times are improving over that of the DS4! For anyone still debating a Fanatec setup and has any concerns around it's performance in GT Sport, no need to debate anymore, just go for it, I have no hesitation in recommending this setup. I have zero regrets with this purchase, it is well worth every cent and moreso with the updates that have been applied to GTS now works perfectly with GTS. Just in case anyone want's to know, on the Clubsport Formula Rim, everything works with GTS including the rev lights with two exceptions, the LED tuning display has no function in GTS and the rotary function of the funky switch has no function in GTS (left right scrolls through the MFD screens and up down changes the values, rotating the stick does nothing).
Cheers All,
I hope this post is useful for someone out there
Warning, this is a longish post!.
First off many thanks to @Mirror_man the reboot trick fixed the disappeared negative values for DRI, for anyone else out there, it seems sometimes not all DRI settings are available in which case a simple reboot of the base will restore the DRI settings.
Secondly another thank-you to @Mirror_man for his settings, I used these as a baseline and found them to be an excellent foundation to work from.
Now for my feedback which should be taken in context, I only play GT Sport with everything off except for ABS on default and I generally only drive Gr.3 and Gr.4 cars, their my goto favourites. The equipment I'm using is a Playseat Challenge with a CSL Elite PS4 base, Clubsport Formula Rim and CSL Elite Load Cell Pedals with the shore 65 elastomer spring and I'm running Driver 311 (476 Base and 18 Motor). Others may find my feedback different to their own experience due to differences such as firmware or using a Rim which is heavier and has a larger diameter for example.
As has been posted in various forums, the LC brake pedal is extremely sensitive, I like to rest my foot gently on it and this will engage the brake, it literally requires a feather touch to active the brake. The throttle on the other hand has roughly about a 5% dead zone. Using the PC driver, setting a 5% dead zone on the LC pedal will correct the sensitivity issue and will be permanently stored so is effective once connected back to the PS4.
Now for the fun stuff, here are the settings I've now settled on and you will notice their are very much @Mirror_man 's settings with basically only a few 'tweaks' that personally suit me :
GTS CSENS -2
GTS FFBT +4
GTS FFBS +10
SEN +60
FF +95
SHO +100
ABS +100
DRI OFF
FOR +100
SPR +100
DPR +60
BRF +30
FEI +30
GTS CSENS -2 --> There seems to be some debate around whether GTS Controller Sensitivity makes a difference on a wheel, while it may be a placebo effect, I felt that using -2 rather than +7 gave a more progressive smoother feel to the car. Note I said to the car, it makes zero difference to the feel of the Fanatec setup but 'seemed' to ever so slightly smooth or average out my inputs making for smoother laps, like I said this maybe placebo and just simply getting more used to the wheel (I'm still a noob with only maybe 5hrs under my belt on this setup so far).
GTS FFBT +4 and FF +95 --> I decided to go a little heavier on the GTS Force Feedback Torque simply because it gave me a more pronounced feel for what the car was doing on long sweepers, this higher setting give me a similar feeling to that the loadcell where I can tell by the FF whether I'm on the correct line and at the correct speed by the FFB itself, this mostly applies to long sweeping turns. That said +4 is a little too heavy, ideally I'd like a +3.5 setting, so as a result I'm using +95 on the wheel FF to get to that +3.5 feeling. Depending on the car / track I'm using anything from +90 to +100.
BRF +30 --> Maybe because of the Playseat Challenge, or the brand spanky new pedals, I found +30 to be a nice value where I could reliably get to 100% brake using left foot braking, +40 was a tad to high where I notice I wasn't always reaching 100% (watching the replays I quickly picked up on this).
FEI +30 --> I have no issues with FEI at this value, the wheel is smooth as silk and the is no 'clacking' as some users have mentioned.
DRI OFF --> I tend to favour rear wheel drive torquey Gr.3 and Gr.4 cars such as the Vette, Viper, AMG you get my drift (pun intended) as a result this is a key value for me and after messing with every setting from -5 to +5 I finally settled on OFF which gives me enough speed/control/feeling to catch a slide and counter steer out of it (impossible with a G29).
Final Thoughts : The Fanatec setup is amazing! Well worth three times the cost of a G29... While I primarily played on the DS4 i did have the G29 but rarely used it as I was simply not competitive with it, I was usually a few seconds slower than the DS4. With the Fanatec I was competitive straight out of the box running equivalent times to the DS4 and I'm now shaving seconds off my PB's on DS4. The feedback provided by the fanatec is sensational, the G29 had no real feedback, for me it pretty much provided some vague force and a bit of rattle over curbs. The fanatec provides such a wide variety of feedback which gives you so much more information to work with, not only do you get to feel what is happening with the road, but more importantly, with the car. You can actually feel under steer and over steer and all this feedback/information is without a doubt why my lap times are improving over that of the DS4! For anyone still debating a Fanatec setup and has any concerns around it's performance in GT Sport, no need to debate anymore, just go for it, I have no hesitation in recommending this setup. I have zero regrets with this purchase, it is well worth every cent and moreso with the updates that have been applied to GTS now works perfectly with GTS. Just in case anyone want's to know, on the Clubsport Formula Rim, everything works with GTS including the rev lights with two exceptions, the LED tuning display has no function in GTS and the rotary function of the funky switch has no function in GTS (left right scrolls through the MFD screens and up down changes the values, rotating the stick does nothing).
Cheers All,
I hope this post is useful for someone out there
- 53
- Lithuania
where did you find to create LC pedal dead zone? I could not found on driver settings connected wheel via USB to PC and directly pedals via USB to PC. I found also Im braking with a liiiiitleeee touch, not even touch, just holding my feet on LC pedal on GT SPORT. BTW I updated pedals drivers separately and it did not solve this issue.
Anyway thanks for a post about CSL ELITE, Im also relatively new owner and totally agree with you!
- 7
- Australia
Hi @domasijus I'm not 100% sure whether your required to disconnect the rj12 pedal cable connecter from the wheel base but in my case I did so just in case. Then connect the pedals directly to a pc via usb, fire up the driver and go to properties. On the function test page where you can test the pedals, tick the box that says "Enable manual mode (Auto-Calibration deactivated!)" Once that is done, depress the brake pedal to where you want the brake to start engaging and press the "set min" button on the brake pedal graph while holding the pedal in your preferred start position. This will set where the pedal begins to activate. I set it to the very first tick mark from the bottom which is roughly about 5% and testing both the throttle and brake ended perfect with both having the exact same dead zone. Once done, just press okay (or maybe apply I can't remember off hand) leaving the manual mode ticked (do not untick as it will reset back, if you mess it up untick the box to reset and then tick again to start over). Hope that's clear enough, I can get some screenshots if you need them. Cheers.where did you find to create LC pedal dead zone? I could not found on driver settings connected wheel via USB to PC and directly pedals via USB to PC. I found also Im braking with a liiiiitleeee touch, not even touch, just holding my feet on LC pedal on GT SPORT. BTW I updated pedals drivers separately and it did not solve this issue.
Anyway thanks for a post about CSL ELITE, Im also relatively new owner and totally agree with you!
- 7
- Australia
Playseat Challenge Mod.
Hi All, for anyone out there that is using a Fanatec setup with a Playseat Challenge you will know that the standard mounting position is kinda horrible. The standard mount puts the WB plate all the way forward which aside from bringing the wheel very close to you meaning you have to compromise with seat position (which if your short or tall may present issues in itself). And in my opinion puts the plate in a (kinda horrible) position which leads to more flex and instability due to the design of the plate mount.
The good news is this can be fairly easily rectified with the end result being extremely stable and puts the wheel in the perfect position (in my opinion). If your upgrading from a G29 for example, it will put the fanatec rim in pretty much the same spot as the G29 wheel. i.e. you will not need to mess with the seat at all, so if you already have the seat set in the perfect position for a G29 the transition is seamless.
So here is the original mounting position with the red triangle representing where the Fanatec WB mounts and the blue line representing where the WB plate mounts in reference to the Playseat Challenge frame :
Here is the modified mounting position :
To achieve this you will need to modify the plastic mounting bracket buy drilling out a cavity for the front mounting bolt for the Fanatec WB. In this position without the mod the mounting hole is obscured by the the plastic bracket. It's a fairly small mod which has a great result!
The following 3 pics show the drilled out cavity with the final one showing the bolt inserted for the Fanatec WB :
Hopefully this guide is useful for fellow Playseat modder's and Fanatec users out there.
Cheers.
Hi All, for anyone out there that is using a Fanatec setup with a Playseat Challenge you will know that the standard mounting position is kinda horrible. The standard mount puts the WB plate all the way forward which aside from bringing the wheel very close to you meaning you have to compromise with seat position (which if your short or tall may present issues in itself). And in my opinion puts the plate in a (kinda horrible) position which leads to more flex and instability due to the design of the plate mount.
The good news is this can be fairly easily rectified with the end result being extremely stable and puts the wheel in the perfect position (in my opinion). If your upgrading from a G29 for example, it will put the fanatec rim in pretty much the same spot as the G29 wheel. i.e. you will not need to mess with the seat at all, so if you already have the seat set in the perfect position for a G29 the transition is seamless.
So here is the original mounting position with the red triangle representing where the Fanatec WB mounts and the blue line representing where the WB plate mounts in reference to the Playseat Challenge frame :
Here is the modified mounting position :
To achieve this you will need to modify the plastic mounting bracket buy drilling out a cavity for the front mounting bolt for the Fanatec WB. In this position without the mod the mounting hole is obscured by the the plastic bracket. It's a fairly small mod which has a great result!
The following 3 pics show the drilled out cavity with the final one showing the bolt inserted for the Fanatec WB :
Hopefully this guide is useful for fellow Playseat modder's and Fanatec users out there.
Cheers.
Last edited:
- 7
- Australia
Hi @domasijus while a 8mm drill bit should be the perfect size, as it's quite difficult to get an accurate hole drilled without a drill press (due to being on the edge) I ended up using a 10mm. The method I used was I mounted the WB plate first, drilled a pilot hole with a 2mm bit then drilled that out with 4 or 5mm bit and then tried the 8mm, but as I was a tad off using a cordless drill the bolt wouldn't line up perfectly so I moved up to the 10mm to get enough clearance for the bolt to comfortably clear. It's a great mod and I highly recommend it, aside from the better position and stability, it also puts the bulk of the WB weight on frame rail. I get zero movement even with extremely aggressive steering inputs (like sudden opposite lock counter steering out of a right foot over steering snafu).Thanks @JNo for posting this! Im also Playseat Challanger user, looks very positive mod! What size of drilling head did you use to drill this "hole"?
Had a G29 and yes, I miss its planting position on my Playseat
- 276
- Bonn
I have the Formula V2. As the (Elite) P1 is the standard wheel supported in GTS there‘s no way to map these dials. Question is: Will they be supported in the future, or maybe in „GT7“? I‘m pretty sure Fanatec gave the full SDK of the Podium Series to PD, so they COULD implement that is they felt like it...
Still, the Formula V2 is an AMAZING wheel and I wouldn’t want to miss it. The FFB motors in the Hand grips alone make for a much better feel for what the car does.
Its a shame, was hoping to get some "support" to change values in the MFD.
In 1.39 they added support for the display on the CSL wheels, but its kind of disturbing for me as I already got everything displayed in the game.
Does anyone know if it is possible to disable the display on the CSL wheel? I mean just not showing gears and speed?
Didn´t find anything so far.
Thank you!
Does anyone know if it is possible to disable the display on the CSL wheel? I mean just not showing gears and speed?
Didn´t find anything so far.
Thank you!
- 3,448
- Theresa, Wisconsin
- 534
- Western Sahara
It's not very suitable for night time playing without covering it... Eyes=You mean I may be able to remove the cardboard I have covering my REV display???
--
Haven't tried my wheel after last patch, but i quess it's fine; although i wanted it to only show either one... Speed or gear, not both.
Groundfish
(Banned)
- 4,363
- United States
After using this wheel plus loadcell brake a while now I have to say it’s great-even fantastic.
Blows away what I used before. Night and day better.
I just run the Fanatec recommended settings in game and on wheel.
This wheel and pedals have opened up all the titles on PS4 for me and my GT Sport times have come way down.
Ac PC2 DIRT are all accessible now when before with toy pedals they were difficult. Highly recommend.
I even got in the top ten first time ever in GT Sport.
The only adjustment I made was running stiffer elastomer and increasing force required to reach max brake via BRF setting. This gives excellent in game control.
The only problem I have had was the wheel center got shifted a slight touch
(2 degrees) left once.
If that happens you just center the wheel and press the buttons. Five second fix.
The pedal quality and resolution is so far beyond what I used before it’s ridiculous.
With a higher brf setting you get so much finer resolution for braking. It’s so much better than what the other makers provide for console it’s indescribable.
I would recommend this setup 100 percent with zero hesitation.
What’s really great is if you use it and are new to force feedback the Fanatec recommended settings work really really well so you don’t have to worry if your wheel is setup right.
I’ve found no need to tweak these at all.
It’s just a fantastic product that I never would have tried if my friend hadn’t been upgrading so I got the setup reasonably.
I have to say if my setup was stolen or destroyed I would not hesitate at all to spend full retail to replace.
I could never go back to what I had before.
If you are on the fence but passionate about console driving don’t screw around.
Buy this and don’t waste your time on anything less.
Blows away what I used before. Night and day better.
I just run the Fanatec recommended settings in game and on wheel.
This wheel and pedals have opened up all the titles on PS4 for me and my GT Sport times have come way down.
Ac PC2 DIRT are all accessible now when before with toy pedals they were difficult. Highly recommend.
I even got in the top ten first time ever in GT Sport.
The only adjustment I made was running stiffer elastomer and increasing force required to reach max brake via BRF setting. This gives excellent in game control.
The only problem I have had was the wheel center got shifted a slight touch
(2 degrees) left once.
If that happens you just center the wheel and press the buttons. Five second fix.
The pedal quality and resolution is so far beyond what I used before it’s ridiculous.
With a higher brf setting you get so much finer resolution for braking. It’s so much better than what the other makers provide for console it’s indescribable.
I would recommend this setup 100 percent with zero hesitation.
What’s really great is if you use it and are new to force feedback the Fanatec recommended settings work really really well so you don’t have to worry if your wheel is setup right.
I’ve found no need to tweak these at all.
It’s just a fantastic product that I never would have tried if my friend hadn’t been upgrading so I got the setup reasonably.
I have to say if my setup was stolen or destroyed I would not hesitate at all to spend full retail to replace.
I could never go back to what I had before.
If you are on the fence but passionate about console driving don’t screw around.
Buy this and don’t waste your time on anything less.
Currently have a TGT and really like it, but I’m looking to move to PC gaming soon (in process of building a pc) seriously considering changing to a CSL Elite, is it worth the change is there really much difference between them. My thought was that the Fanatec will be generally supported more on pc games and potentially have a better feel.
I’ve been using the TGT on AC and PC2 on PS4 recently and it feels good but I haven’t got any point of reference but I definitely want a set of load cell pedals.
I’ve been using the TGT on AC and PC2 on PS4 recently and it feels good but I haven’t got any point of reference but I definitely want a set of load cell pedals.
- 3,448
- Theresa, Wisconsin
Hi All, as a Fanatec noob, just though I'd provide some feedback which others might find useful.
Warning, this is a longish post!.
First off many thanks to @Mirror_man the reboot trick fixed the disappeared negative values for DRI, for anyone else out there, it seems sometimes not all DRI settings are available in which case a simple reboot of the base will restore the DRI settings.
Secondly another thank-you to @Mirror_man for his settings, I used these as a baseline and found them to be an excellent foundation to work from.
Now for my feedback which should be taken in context, I only play GT Sport with everything off except for ABS on default and I generally only drive Gr.3 and Gr.4 cars, their my goto favourites. The equipment I'm using is a Playseat Challenge with a CSL Elite PS4 base, Clubsport Formula Rim and CSL Elite Load Cell Pedals with the shore 65 elastomer spring and I'm running Driver 311 (476 Base and 18 Motor). Others may find my feedback different to their own experience due to differences such as firmware or using a Rim which is heavier and has a larger diameter for example.
As has been posted in various forums, the LC brake pedal is extremely sensitive, I like to rest my foot gently on it and this will engage the brake, it literally requires a feather touch to active the brake. The throttle on the other hand has roughly about a 5% dead zone. Using the PC driver, setting a 5% dead zone on the LC pedal will correct the sensitivity issue and will be permanently stored so is effective once connected back to the PS4.
Now for the fun stuff, here are the settings I've now settled on and you will notice their are very much @Mirror_man 's settings with basically only a few 'tweaks' that personally suit me :
GTS CSENS -2
GTS FFBT +4
GTS FFBS +10
SEN +60
FF +95
SHO +100
ABS +100
DRI OFF
FOR +100
SPR +100
DPR +60
BRF +30
FEI +30
GTS CSENS -2 --> There seems to be some debate around whether GTS Controller Sensitivity makes a difference on a wheel, while it may be a placebo effect, I felt that using -2 rather than +7 gave a more progressive smoother feel to the car. Note I said to the car, it makes zero difference to the feel of the Fanatec setup but 'seemed' to ever so slightly smooth or average out my inputs making for smoother laps, like I said this maybe placebo and just simply getting more used to the wheel (I'm still a noob with only maybe 5hrs under my belt on this setup so far).
GTS FFBT +4 and FF +95 --> I decided to go a little heavier on the GTS Force Feedback Torque simply because it gave me a more pronounced feel for what the car was doing on long sweepers, this higher setting give me a similar feeling to that the loadcell where I can tell by the FF whether I'm on the correct line and at the correct speed by the FFB itself, this mostly applies to long sweeping turns. That said +4 is a little too heavy, ideally I'd like a +3.5 setting, so as a result I'm using +95 on the wheel FF to get to that +3.5 feeling. Depending on the car / track I'm using anything from +90 to +100.
BRF +30 --> Maybe because of the Playseat Challenge, or the brand spanky new pedals, I found +30 to be a nice value where I could reliably get to 100% brake using left foot braking, +40 was a tad to high where I notice I wasn't always reaching 100% (watching the replays I quickly picked up on this).
FEI +30 --> I have no issues with FEI at this value, the wheel is smooth as silk and the is no 'clacking' as some users have mentioned.
DRI OFF --> I tend to favour rear wheel drive torquey Gr.3 and Gr.4 cars such as the Vette, Viper, AMG you get my drift (pun intended) as a result this is a key value for me and after messing with every setting from -5 to +5 I finally settled on OFF which gives me enough speed/control/feeling to catch a slide and counter steer out of it (impossible with a G29).
Final Thoughts : The Fanatec setup is amazing! Well worth three times the cost of a G29... While I primarily played on the DS4 i did have the G29 but rarely used it as I was simply not competitive with it, I was usually a few seconds slower than the DS4. With the Fanatec I was competitive straight out of the box running equivalent times to the DS4 and I'm now shaving seconds off my PB's on DS4. The feedback provided by the fanatec is sensational, the G29 had no real feedback, for me it pretty much provided some vague force and a bit of rattle over curbs. The fanatec provides such a wide variety of feedback which gives you so much more information to work with, not only do you get to feel what is happening with the road, but more importantly, with the car. You can actually feel under steer and over steer and all this feedback/information is without a doubt why my lap times are improving over that of the DS4! For anyone still debating a Fanatec setup and has any concerns around it's performance in GT Sport, no need to debate anymore, just go for it, I have no hesitation in recommending this setup. I have zero regrets with this purchase, it is well worth every cent and moreso with the updates that have been applied to GTS now works perfectly with GTS. Just in case anyone want's to know, on the Clubsport Formula Rim, everything works with GTS including the rev lights with two exceptions, the LED tuning display has no function in GTS and the rotary function of the funky switch has no function in GTS (left right scrolls through the MFD screens and up down changes the values, rotating the stick does nothing).
Cheers All,
I hope this post is useful for someone out there
Those are really high FFB and Force settings, I run mine around 50 FFB and 60-80 Force.
What really amazes me is that you can run your brake force at 30, I have mine at 100 most of the time and occaissionally as low as 70 but never lower. I would need to bend my brake pedal in half if I had brake force on 30, I will have to try attaching my PC to my wheel and pedals again to play around a little. I know that I dont have flex in my brake pedal mount or wheel for that matter.
That is my driving rig made out of 1" x .065 4130 with 3/4" x .065" and 1/2" x .065" bracing.
- 3,448
- Theresa, Wisconsin
- 373
- Canada
I think something has been updated with the braking on CSL Elite pedals (non load cell) since early April. I have been playing AC instead a lot lately, it doesn't require a pool noodle for me to brake like GT Sport does. I forgot to take out the default braking sponge when giving Goodwood a whirl with the old Mini. It appears that the pool noodle isn't needed in GT Sport anymore, at least not with non ABS cars. I have to check it out a bit more before I say much definitively, but it does seem different. The problem I encountered seems to be pretty rare and I didn't see any official statement on it so I'm surprised there's an update - if there actually is.
Anyone else feeling a difference?
Anyone else feeling a difference?
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