"Daily" Race Discussion [Archive]

[05XR8]

Ahhhhhh, the return of Brands Hatch. Good smile on my face for that one. Just like the Nord, you are racing the track as much as others. Time to see if the 86 has anything there in carrying speed or if it is simply down to the trophy 1 make again. Going to be interesting with strategy I hope.

Yeah, hoping to get some strategy practice with my 86.

Anyway, last to 8th. Done at this track.

 

[Groundfish]

If you see anyone driving this heap, watch out!

 

[BEBOP_Bill]

Been race C for me this week. Finally got some constancy going after a couple rough days of being all over the place. So I had some good races this morning. Fun race, kinda make me itch for a 500 lap race in this car

 

[meekrab]

Here's a question....Does reporting a shockingly bad driver have any consequences? Watched a guy break check a few cars (I was one in all of the following examples), swerve violently to keep 3 other cars behind him, edge another car off the track (Big downhill at Lago Maggiore), and flat out ram them. What about just calling them out here, by name? I just have to figure out how to post video...

Reports only work if they're violating PSN rules. Racing standards are supposed to be policed by the penalty system.

 

[fisheye]

If you see anyone driving this heap, watch out!
View attachment 974605

In the game or on the street? We have some of those.

 

[StanNz]

Yeah, hoping to get some strategy practice with my 86.

Anyway, last to 8th. Done at this track.

I was in that race and went from 8th to 2nd last
Got my 15CRB streak at this track earlier so can't complain.
Enjoy the racing but can't work out where I lose time.
57.4 is my best lap which is pretty average for the amount of laps I've done.

 

[NevilleNobody]

Has the grip model or BOP been changed since the Group 4 cars last ran at Brands? I THINK it has because the 4C was competitive but think it has been nerfed since, which is insane.

 

[05XR8]

Has the grip model or BOP been changed since the Group 4 cars last ran at Brands? I THINK it has because the 4C was competitive but think it has been nerfed since, which is insane.

4C, Megane and 86 have had sand bags added to each wheel.

 

[NevilleNobody]

Megane ok but the other two, honestly words fail me. How stupid is that, they are both such fun.

 

[Groundfish]

Man, the top room on NA B race has been the biggest mess under this penalty system.
It’s outta control dirty. Guys will dive every single chance they get.
It’d be better with no penalties on at all then you could teach them a lesson, the racers could police themselves.
It’d be way better that way, at the top level.
Right now it’s Mariokart with good graphics because these guys lack self control and any idea about real race etiquette to them it’s pure mariokart.
It’s kinda fun but annoying at the same time.

Edit I think it’s really too bad that the fastest lobbies on NA have the worst driving standards.
I’m starting to believe that it’s not even so much that it’s dirty intent at times, I mean there is that, at least 60-65 percent, but I think the other 30-35 percent is just outright ignorance. These young people have only ever gamed, probably only in Gran Turismo.
Maybe they just don’t know any better and play...No penalty? Then it’s good driving to them...

 

[sevetyone]

Had some good races on C this week (first time I've entered) top finish 2nd with CRB.
But I'm so off the pace in places , not cutting corners is perhaps my trouble in the last chicane section but other than the odd bit of diving in stupid places it's been enjoyable.

 

[05XR8]

I just think many players actually don't take the time to watch real racing.

 

[Groundfish]

I just think many players actually don't take the time to watch real racing.

I like to battle. You know I like how I get excited about it and vent etc.
I like trying to overcome challenges in game but man when they get one over on you it suuuucks.

 

[sturk0167]

For the first time in a long time, today I got to do a couple races with @Groundfish.
One of the best allies you could have.
Glad to see him out there. He's a hell of a race partner, and he's 🤬 fast, too. 👍

 

[Redneckchef]

Time to take the night off and get my head right for the coming week. Got a couple days off so hoping to get some Brands Hatch in on the Americas server as well. Need to get sorted so I can have more fun instead of getting the rage. No fun if I'm trying to take it too seriously and driving angry, I find I often get slower that way. Bring on Brands! Hope to see some of you out there while I reset my driving skills to a competent standard.

 

[Little_Guppy]

This is what tcs is for, but what you need is max steering angle AT apex, unwinding after. If you are unwinding it’s easier to avoid spins.
Look at the hp and torque numbers on gr3 —- if you think irl you could hook this power up reliably without tcs on a road course at the limits more power to ya.
These cars have tcs for a reason.
Sure you can short shift and just bog but you’re losing acceleration with many, but not all cars.
If a person wanted to learn better throttle modulation in synch with better steering input they might run tcs 3, play with getting on throttle earlier but progressively.
Now IF tcs 3 is cutting power it’s telling you you have way too much steering input for the amount of throttle given.
There’s a degree of rotation in each car of the steering wheel that moving past that point will cut power if tcs is on three. But, if you use the trail braking right and in some cases throttle too you can turn the car better much better by turning the steering less.
Most people that cry about understeer have zero trailbraking plus waaaaay waaay too much steering angle. Then they blame the game lol.
Less steering angle is less rolling resistance more speed less tire wear etc etc etc.
I personally have found that after sticking with tcs3 on most cars, not the gr4 Ferrari but yes on the RSR gr3...Anyways sticking with it on 3 but trying to never have it activate has helped me develop the proper coordination between brake steering and throttle.
It’s a timing thing and coordination thing along with having the car in a good line.
With tcs 0 (how I spent the first 4-6 months in gts) I wasn’t getting it. I just got too wary of throttle on exit. Lol that’s not gonna lead to good laptimes or fun online races.
GT3 are modern, they are not like the old Alpine n100 or the Porsche speedster.
Imo you can learn to work with the electronic systems and be far far more consistent AND faster, but only if you understand them.
Just having tcs off imo you’ll never get it the right way. You’ll be sawing away at the wheel sliding counter steering meh blah

Edit a good general rule that applies to most corners is no throttle until apex or just after.
You might need to brake a touch later than you think in some cases if you are trail braking and in the racing line.

That’s JMO YMMV

Groundfish,

Thanks for the considered advice. I especially welcome the explanations as I need to understand the "why" - it's just the way I am programmed.

I adopted TCS=0 based on the general understanding that all aids help but you can do better once you dispense with them. Upon dispensing TCS=3 I improved significantly - QT, race times, DR - the lot. With your explanation, I accept that I moved prematurely and that I did not properly understand the "why" and hence my development has plateaued on FR/MR drives.

With TCS=3 I was just mashing the accelerator. TCS=0 taught me to correctly ease into it. I have not properly considered steering input. You have correctly pointed out that I have simply applied full opposite lock. Similarly, I am learning when to lightly apply the brakes and more importantly ease out of full braking sooner rather than a later quick release. The game feedback helps with that. I have not figured out the steering input or the signals when I am doing it wrong. I expect that I need to turn up the volume and listen for tire squeal.

I have had decent success with trail braking and tune the BB only when I reach a level of skill whereby I can see the effect in lap times. I am not at the level for the Nord or Suzuka but am there for the Red Bull Ring and Fuji.

So, my takeaway is that

1. I am going test with TCS=3 and drive such that I do not use any *red* on the gas pedal, and,
2. Use less steering input,
3. release the steering and apply gas at the apex - sooner that I do now.

In the end I plan to take what I learn and apply it to TCS=0. My general belief is that TCS=3 has a cost during the straights during gear changes and that cost is significant.

Will let you know how it goes.

As a backgrounder my GTSport performance has plateaued and last week Groundfish offered some advice that was both counter-intuitive and well reasoned. Use TCS=3! I had been using TCS=0 for most cars. Further, I am a *normal* racer and fit the mid DR.B level.

@Groundfish,

We chatted last week and you gave me some advice on TCS. As an experiment I ran all week with TCS=3 in the C race N200/Miata/Suzuka.

• At the Apex I pressed the pedal as soon and as aggressively as I could without simply mashing it and minimized "the red".
• I tried to unwind steering in the latter part of Spoon thereby decrease the tire resistance.
• Used TCS=3 in QT and the race.
• minimized gear shifts to avoid the shift time impact.

The results were mixed.

• 👍 I never spun out due to wheel spin no matter how aggressive I got. I spun out for other reasons.
• 👍 It helped me exit the hairpin (I used second gear). I could see other experiencing the "sideways wiggle".
• :tup:I was surprised to see the red indicators during the esses and adjusted accordingly.
• 👎 On Friday night I switched to TCS=0 for QT and immediately found 4 more tenths (to 2:32.8).
• 👍 I ran TCS=1 in the races on Saturday. I spun out at least twice due to wheel spin. I attribute that partly to the need to adjust. But it would *never* have happened with TCS=3.
• 👎 In the races I did not spin I was more competitive.

The net is: TCS=3 is certainly safer. If you amortize two spins costing 10 seconds each over four races (0.6 seconds per lap) then it is faster too. Lap times with TCS=0 are faster though I have not doubt I got there due to the learning in TCS=3.

My goal is to get better and that means running fast with TCS=0 *and* not spinning. Alas, I am not ready to get there yet. In the short term I am going to move to TCS=1 as that has the least time penalty and shows me the "red bits" when I am too aggressive thereby giving me the feedback.

Now I have a real basic question. When in TCS=0 how does one detect wheelspin in the game? I experience the sideways wiggle on corner exit. Is there anything else? Any sound effect that I am missing?

Once again thanks for your feedback and coaching. It is much appreciated.

 

[meekrab]

Is this fair defense or over the line? I'm actually not sure even though I did it.

 

[D_Dragline]

Is this fair defense or over the line? I'm actually not sure even though I did it.

Looks fine to me. You have track position, you only move across once and you don’t move under braking. If I’m the guy behind I let you take that line and try the cutback.

 

[Timm Sheehan]

Is this fair defense or over the line? I'm actually not sure even though I did it.

Seemed like a single smooth transition and not a quick move besides they could have cut over to the right (you left more than enough room). Appears a good legitimate move to me.

 

[OutsiderC]

As a backgrounder my GTSport performance has plateaued and last week Groundfish offered some advice that was both counter-intuitive and well reasoned. Use TCS=3! I had been using TCS=0 for most cars. Further, I am a *normal* racer and fit the mid DR.B level.

@Groundfish,

We chatted last week and you gave me some advice on TCS. As an experiment I ran all week with TCS=3 in the C race N200/Miata/Suzuka.

• At the Apex I pressed the pedal as soon and as aggressively as I could without simply mashing it and minimized "the red".
• I tried to unwind steering in the latter part of Spoon thereby decrease the tire resistance.
• Used TCS=3 in QT and the race.
• minimized gear shifts to avoid the shift time impact.

The results were mixed.

• 👍 I never spun out due to wheel spin no matter how aggressive I got. I spun out for other reasons.
• 👍 It helped me exit the hairpin (I used second gear). I could see other experiencing the "sideways wiggle".
• :tup:I was surprised to see the red indicators during the esses and adjusted accordingly.
• 👎 On Friday night I switched to TCS=0 for QT and immediately found 4 more tenths (to 2:32.8).
• 👍 I ran TCS=1 in the races on Saturday. I spun out at least twice due to wheel spin. I attribute that partly to the need to adjust. But it would *never* have happened with TCS=3.
• 👎 In the races I did not spin I was more competitive.

The net is: TCS=3 is certainly safer. If you amortize two spins costing 10 seconds each over four races (0.6 seconds per lap) then it is faster too. Lap times with TCS=0 are faster though I have not doubt I got there due to the learning in TCS=3.

My goal is to get better and that means running fast with TCS=0 *and* not spinning. Alas, I am not ready to get there yet. In the short term I am going to move to TCS=1 as that has the least time penalty and shows me the "red bits" when I am too aggressive thereby giving me the feedback.

Now I have a real basic question. When in TCS=0 how does one detect wheelspin in the game? I experience the sideways wiggle on corner exit. Is there anything else? Any sound effect that I am missing?

Once again thanks for your feedback and coaching. It is much appreciated.

Thanks for sharing this! I'm in the same situation, trying to learn and here I see really useful information. I'm a self taught driver.

 

[jad866]

If you see anyone driving this heap, watch out!
View attachment 974605

Huge Raider fan here nice to meet another #RAIDER NATION

 

[Groundfish]

@Little_Guppy
Nice. I did say I usually drive gr3/4 and tcs3 is not always for all cars. Thanks for the review though. Very cool.
I am going to go ahead and say here’s some photos showing what I personally talk about. This can take anyone on NA to A plus if they get it and run gr3/4.

These photos are from qual on b race on a lap of 55.8.


Assuming these are in order...

Ok, initial braking from top speed-braking steering perfectly straight, brake input 100 percent.
Then beginning turn brake input releasing
More turn less brake
Full turn no brake
Opening steering a bit add throttle
Opening steering more equals more throttle.
The formula is to use 100 percent of the tires capacity at all times.
The important thing to remember here is 2 tires have more grip than one 3 have more grip than 2 and 4 tires have more grip than 3.
Simple right?
THAT is why the limit isn’t a simple fixed value.
The better the driver, the better the car can be balanced means the more TIRES he is putting in play which means more traction which means greater speed over a lap.
GTS is great about this.
Anyhow the formula to take one from D to A plus onNA gr3 /4 is all aids on brake at 2 cones blend brake and turn to apex
Apex
Blend opening steering add throttle on exit.
Now, I use wheel...But you can do the exact same inputs on controller. I haven’t used controllers for 30 years, since street fighter, but with auto transmission, the bottom triggers for braking / throttle (the progressive bottom ones) and motion steer, I can do things exactly the same as above on gr3/4 and it works exactly the same. Edit I don’t play any other games anymore with controller and I’m awful with it, BUT I know what the inputs need to be and I’m quite sure I’d be equally fast or faster on controller with practice...
I have experimented last night and I ran a few b race laps garnishing I think a 58 on tcs3 but the inputs are exact same as photos above.
Oh. I also notice that after time the better you get at braking the more you wanna experiment with ABS weak, if you can blend braking and turning in well there’s not that awful entry understeer some cars have on default ABS.
Anyways this is the simple formula, it never changes.
You wanna use the tires 100 percent, 100 percent of the time. Every single sim racer has room for improvement.
That’s it.
As for TCS3 I still use it almost always on racecars. Racepace wise those extra tenths you gain in a qualifying lap don’t mean anything.
Racepace is never top ten qual pace.
THATS where tcs3 becomes a HUGE advantage on gr3...In RACE. That’s JMO.
Again if you are a lot slower with it (TCS ON) at say B dr on NA you are making huge mistakes every lap you run and probably you are not doing what I said above...
1. Line
2. Drive line at 100 percent of tires capability.

It’s NOT easy lol. I certainly haven’t mastered it AT ALL. I make mistakes EVERY LAP.
However I am able to continually improve because I understand exactly what I’m trying to accomplish.
That’s all I’m trying to share with this great community. What you’re trying to do isn’t complicated at all understanding wise...
It’s developing the skill and coordination to do it better and better and better whatever method you use as a controller really doesn’t matter.
The inputs needed for best results are the same either way...
Chase cam:controller with 12 inch screen or whatever crazy triple 65 inch 4K supercomputer Rfactoristacompetizionesport direct drive load cell whatever.
The inputs and what you need to do to get fast is always the same.
If you enjoy finer detail I highly reccomend Ross Bentley’s book Ultimate Speed Secrets.
It’s what I used to get to A plus.

Edit generally if you get a proper entry to apex done with the braking and the cars settled you can throttle out all day and the car will be a rocket ship. If you’re spinning out stepping out too much tcs cutting power all the way, the answer lies in the mistakes you made before on entry.
Further a tiny sliver of red on the tcs bar isn’t bad at all. What’s bad is flashing half the throttle bar. Now it’s cutting so much power you’re upsetting the cars balance.
Anyways no need to overthink things. Imo if you have a fifty inch or bigger screen using cockpit view gives an awful lot more information about what your inputs are doing to the cars balance. Jmo it’s worth playing around in different views and driving different cars from time to time.
You can learn a lot that way.

 

[Mudda Chod]

As a backgrounder my GTSport performance has plateaued and last week Groundfish offered some advice that was both counter-intuitive and well reasoned. Use TCS=3! I had been using TCS=0 for most cars. Further, I am a *normal* racer and fit the mid DR.B level.

@Groundfish,

We chatted last week and you gave me some advice on TCS. As an experiment I ran all week with TCS=3 in the C race N200/Miata/Suzuka.

• At the Apex I pressed the pedal as soon and as aggressively as I could without simply mashing it and minimized "the red".
• I tried to unwind steering in the latter part of Spoon thereby decrease the tire resistance.
• Used TCS=3 in QT and the race.
• minimized gear shifts to avoid the shift time impact.

The results were mixed.

• 👍 I never spun out due to wheel spin no matter how aggressive I got. I spun out for other reasons.
• 👍 It helped me exit the hairpin (I used second gear). I could see other experiencing the "sideways wiggle".
• :tup:I was surprised to see the red indicators during the esses and adjusted accordingly.
• 👎 On Friday night I switched to TCS=0 for QT and immediately found 4 more tenths (to 2:32.8).
• 👍 I ran TCS=1 in the races on Saturday. I spun out at least twice due to wheel spin. I attribute that partly to the need to adjust. But it would *never* have happened with TCS=3.
• 👎 In the races I did not spin I was more competitive.

The net is: TCS=3 is certainly safer. If you amortize two spins costing 10 seconds each over four races (0.6 seconds per lap) then it is faster too. Lap times with TCS=0 are faster though I have not doubt I got there due to the learning in TCS=3.

My goal is to get better and that means running fast with TCS=0 *and* not spinning. Alas, I am not ready to get there yet. In the short term I am going to move to TCS=1 as that has the least time penalty and shows me the "red bits" when I am too aggressive thereby giving me the feedback.

Now I have a real basic question. When in TCS=0 how does one detect wheelspin in the game? I experience the sideways wiggle on corner exit. Is there anything else? Any sound effect that I am missing?

Once again thanks for your feedback and coaching. It is much appreciated.

Yes. Turn tyre noise up to +5 so you can hear the tyres squeal.. Medium squeak is fine but screaming = death.

Also recommend to persevere at drifting challenge until you get familiar with what the game considers good technique...

Also greatly depends on what view you use... It's a lot harder to detect a loose back end when you're on the front bumper.... I use bumper view always, but you have to learn when it's going to step out, and adjust your inputs1ms before it goes.

Break balance affects it also... If your rear wheels are still sliding under breaking (or from dropping gears) when you plant the accelerator, then you will instantly step out without warning... Solution is to either let off & wait 0.5 sec for the car to stabilise before accelerating, or trailbreak slightly to maintain 4 wheels with grip (depending on the car dynamics and corner slope etc - experiment to find out what works, or watch the top 10 replays)

 

[Little_Guppy]

@Little_Guppy
Nice. I did say I usually drive gr3/4 and tcs3 is not always for all cars. Thanks for the review though. Very cool.
I am going to go ahead and say here’s some photos showing what I personally talk about. This can take anyone on NA to A plus if they get it and run gr3/4.

These photos are from qual on b race on a lap of 55.8.


Assuming these are in order...View attachment 974968
View attachment 974969 View attachment 974970 View attachment 974971 View attachment 974972 View attachment 974973

Ok, initial braking from top speed-braking steering perfectly straight, brake input 100 percent.
Then beginning turn brake input releasing
More turn less brake
Full turn no brake
Opening steering a bit add throttle
Opening steering more equals more throttle.
The formula is to use 100 percent of the tires capacity at all times.
The important thing to remember here is 2 tires have more grip than one 3 have more grip than 2 and 4 tires have more grip than 3.
Simple right?
THAT is why the limit isn’t a simple fixed value.
The better the driver, the better the car can be balanced means the more TIRES he is putting in play which means more traction which means greater speed over a lap.
GTS is great about this.
Anyhow the formula to take one from D to A plus onNA gr3 /4 is all aids on brake at 2 cones blend brake and turn to apex
Apex
Blend opening steering add throttle on exit.
Now, I use wheel...But you can do the exact same inputs on controller. I haven’t used controllers for 30 years, since street fighter, but with auto transmission, the bottom triggers for braking / throttle (the progressive bottom ones) and motion steer, I can do things exactly the same as above on gr3/4 and it works exactly the same. Edit I don’t play any other games anymore with controller and I’m awful with it, BUT I know what the inputs need to be and I’m quite sure I’d be equally fast or faster on controller with practice...
I have experimented last night and I ran a few b race laps garnishing I think a 58 on tcs3 but the inputs are exact same as photos above.
Oh. I also notice that after time the better you get at braking the more you wanna experiment with ABS weak, if you can blend braking and turning in well there’s not that awful entry understeer some cars have on default ABS.
Anyways this is the simple formula, it never changes.
You wanna use the tires 100 percent, 100 percent of the time. Every single sim racer has room for improvement.
That’s it.
As for TCS3 I still use it almost always on racecars. Racepace wise those extra tenths you gain in a qualifying lap don’t mean anything.
Racepace is never top ten qual pace.
THATS where tcs3 becomes a HUGE advantage on gr3...In RACE. That’s JMO.
Again if you are a lot slower with it off at say B dr on NA you are making huge mistakes every lap you run and probably you are not doing what I said above...
1. Line
2. Drive line at 100 percent of tires capability.

It’s NOT easy lol. I certainly haven’t mastered it AT ALL. I make mistakes EVERY LAP.
However I am able to continually improve because I understand exactly what I’m trying to accomplish.
That’s all I’m trying to share with this great community. What you’re trying to do isn’t complicated at all understanding wise...
It’s developing the skill and coordination to do it better and better and better whatever method you use as a controller really doesn’t matter.
The inputs needed for best results are the same either way...
Chase cam:controller with 12 inch screen or whatever crazy triple 65 inch 4K supercomputer Rfactoristacompetizionesport direct drive load cell whatever.
The inputs and what you need to do to get fast is always the same.
If you enjoy finer detail I highly reccomend Ross Bentley’s book Ultimate Speed Secrets.
It’s what I used to get to A plus.

Edit generally if you get a proper entry to apex done with the braking and the cars settled you can throttle out all day and the car will be a rocket ship. If you’re spinning out stepping out too much tcs cutting power all the way, the answer lies in the mistakes you made before on entry.
Further a tiny sliver of red on the tcs bar isn’t bad at all. What’s bad is flashing half the throttle bar. Now it’s cutting so much power you’re upsetting the cars balance.
Anyways no need to overthink things. Imo if you have a fifty inch or bigger screen using cockpit view gives an awful lot more information about what your inputs are doing to the cars balance. Jmo it’s worth playing around in different views and driving different cars from time to time.
You can learn a lot that way.

> Nice. I did say I usually drive gr3/4 and tcs3 is not always for all cars.

I recall that now. I presume gr 4 rear wheel drive.

> The important thing to remember here is 2 tires have more grip than one 3 have more grip than 2 and 4 tires have more grip than 3.
>Simple right?

Now that you say it out loud, it's obvious, but I have *not* been thinking about that.

> Anyhow the formula to take one from D to A plus onNA gr3 /4 is all aids on brake at 2 cones blend brake and turn to apex

I have not properly paid attention to this part. My natural thinking goes like this... "Hey, I can outbrake those cones, I am smarter than the game!" It takes a while for me to backup to those cones but have not properly understood *why* it is better. Your explanation makes sense.

>Apex
> Oh. I also notice that after time the better you get at braking the more you wanna experiment with ABS weak, if you can blend braking and turning in well there’s not that awful entry understeer some cars have on default ABS.

I am not going there yet as I tried it after watching another driver use it in a replay. I am dumbfounded by it. Brake=spin. I put that toy back on the shelf.

> You wanna use the tires 100 percent, 100 percent of the time. Every single sim racer has room for improvement.

Got it.

> As for TCS3 I still use it almost always on racecars. Racepace wise those extra tenths you gain in a qualifying lap don’t mean anything.
> Racepace is never top ten qual pace.

Yep.

> Again if you are a lot slower with it off at say B dr on NA you are making huge mistakes every lap you run and probably you are not doing what I said above...

It is the later - it have been able to dial in some consistency. I am a mid DR.B and travel a little up and a little down. I can do OK in the B/C groups and then graduate to the A+/A/B groups and simply cannot crack the top 10. My goal is to race competitively in the A groups. Most times I cannot. I don't need to win but don't want to qual at 19th and not be able match pace of P18 (Suzuka/N200/Miata).
I am also aware of realistic expectations though with some practice/learning and knowledge there is another level I can reach.

I am going to reapply TCS=3 for the next Gr 3 event and/or Gr 4 RWD. During practice I plan to use TCS=1 simply to get the better feedback. In another thread Mudda Chod suggested amping the tire noise all the way up.

Once again thanks for the thoughtful feedback.

 

[Little_Guppy]

Yes. Turn tyre noise up to +5 so you can hear the tyres squeal.. Medium squeak is fine but screaming = death.

Also recommend to persevere at drifting challenge until you get familiar with what the game considers good technique...

Also greatly depends on what view you use... It's a lot harder to detect a loose back end when you're on the front bumper.... I use bumper view always, but you have to learn when it's going to step out, and adjust your inputs1ms before it goes.

Break balance affects it also... If your rear wheels are still sliding under breaking (or from dropping gears) when you plant the accelerator, then you will instantly step out without warning... Solution is to either let off & wait 0.5 sec for the car to stabilise before accelerating, or trailbreak slightly to maintain 4 wheels with grip (depending on the car dynamics and corner slope etc - experiment to find out what works, or watch the top 10 replays)

Turning up tire noise to +5 right now.

Had not considered the drifting challenge and have not tried it. Will add it to my list of remedial work.

Thanks.

 

[Groundfish]

I recall that now. I presume gr 4 rear wheel drive.

I’d say it’s more important to use TCS in front wheel drive cars and in many cases all wheel also.
Otherwise you will overload the front tires traction capability and understeer/overheat the fronts.
For example this weeks A race my qual is at
52.6 tcs3 bb0 in Megane.
The replays shared.
Anyways jmo but you can mess about drifting however drifting is an aesthetic contest like figure skating.
Jmo but you wanna be fast you gotta ‘drive the limit’
That’s NOT car on rails not sliding at all. It’s having the car balanced as neutrally as possible with the tires at the proper slip angle.
Even at times inducing a touch of under over steer depending on situation.
Jmo but top tens are one off. Those guys doing those don’t drive like that in race that I’ve ever seen. Slip angle-that’s key.
One of the best examples I’ve seen of someone doing this in a road car was watching @Pigems this one lobby on Suzuka East in an awd road car maybe Nissan? Anyhow he really had turn one dialed it was a thing of beauty he was gaining 3/4 a second per lap on the field there. Perfectly neutrally balanced perfect line perfectly barely holding-really was pretty.
But anyhow that’s my opinion.
I mean you can mess about with brake balance and lockup the rear wheels with downshifts or rear bias and maybe catch a perfect rotation one out of ten times for a fast qualifying lap, but properly driving the limit as best you can is the better way to get consistent racepace.
If you’re locking the rears coming in with heavy rear bias it’s just not something I strive for or have found necessary to stay top 1 percent...
YMMV
Driving without any slip at all is SLOW and is not the limit. But the limit is also not playing oversteer drift tire smoker.

 

[Fennario]

This week's Race C is a great place to work on balancing the car - particularly the S's after T1. Not overpowered like a Gr.3 but still snappy/slidey if you are not smooth. Just stay in 3rd gear and work on throttle balance to control the speed of the car through the turns (no TC). The car is very good at letting you know when either end starts to get light and a minor adjustment will bring you back onto the line. Find the flow and transfer that feeling to other cars in the game.

 

[Dave_H_87]

I’m normally quite accepting of contacts in my races on GT Sport, people make mistakes, we’re all amateurs etc etcz However, the driving in the BS lobbies on daily race C towards the end of this week has been abysmal.

It’s just one or two but they nudge and barge their way through constantly.

Shame because the combo is excellent, just shame about the people that drive the cars......

 

[dlshearon]

I’m normally quite accepting of contacts in my races on GT Sport, people make mistakes, we’re all amateurs etc etcz However, the driving in the BS lobbies on daily race C towards the end of this week has been abysmal.

It’s just one or two but they nudge and barge their way through constantly.

Shame because the combo is excellent, just shame about the people that drive the cars......

Something about Sundays, at lease for us in NA.

 

[ASH32]

I’m normally quite accepting of contacts in my races on GT Sport, people make mistakes, we’re all amateurs etc etcz However, the driving in the BS lobbies on daily race C towards the end of this week has been abysmal.

It’s just one or two but they nudge and barge their way through constantly.

Shame because the combo is excellent, just shame about the people that drive the cars......

Yes and all it takes is one or two pushers and others have to start doing it too or lose loads of positions. You just can't be patient with the car/s in front if the driver behind is a impatient pusher, they'll push you and you'll lose out to them and many others as a result.

A big problem is that some drivers are running up to 2 seconds a lap slower than they should be running based on their qualifying time and that creates problems if just one person is impatient and there is almost always at least one person who is.