Dirt Rally 2.0 Wheel Settings

  • Thread starter Scaff
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John G
With my T300RS I have pretty much settled on

Vibration & Feedback: On
Self Aligning Torque: 50
Wheel Friction: 0
Tyre Friction: 120
Suspension: 100
Collision: 30
Soft Lock: Off
Steering Centre Force Enabled: Off

With
Steering saturation: 50
(Wheel is set to 900°, if that makes any difference?)
Linearity 0

Ive tried playing with the linearity both ways but they just feel a little too compromised. I like the idea of going to +2 or +3 so it's a little slower around the centre for finer control and then quickens up when i get into trouble and need more steering, but i find it too unresponsive for how much i like to turn the wheel, which i guess i could resolve by reducing the saturation further
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Good stuff, I see you are also playinf on ps4 and also have the first chapter.
How do you compare the ffb in the two games?
 
MarcoV
Good stuff, I see you are also playinf on ps4 and also have the first chapter.
How do you compare the ffb in the two games?
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I haven't done a back to back to compare detailed FFB quality. I think dirt 1 maybe has a little more detail but I'd need to check again.
What i do know is that on the dirt 1 settings, i need to change the saturation significantly between tarmac and gravel, otherwise its way too sensitive on tarmac or completely unresponsive on gravel. I think I'm on like 40-50 on gravel, and 70-80 on tarmac. Dirt 2, i can generally leave the settings alone.
Also, tarmac FFB is still not quite right on either game but it's probably less "obviously bad" on dirt 2
 
Found this newer video of John Armstrong sharing his recommended settings for Thrustmaster wheels.

I can say after nearly a year and a half of using the default settings these are so much better. Like vastly superior. And I didn’t need to turn down the FFB settings as much as he does. Maybe there’s a difference in strength between his TS-XW and my T300 who knows.

All I changed was reducing SAT to 75, tire and wheel friction to around 50-60, suspension to 50, and collision to 40 and that’s it.

He’s right on when he says high FFB settings make the car feel like it’s driving YOU, not the other way around. All this time I’ve been wrestling the cars around unnecessarily.

 
fernandito
^omg does he really uses 270º?, so realistic indeed
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Didn’t even pay attention to his degrees of rotation until just now. I was really looking for better FFB settings but 270 does seem really low. Then maybe he’s compensating for the smaller rim vs a real car? Think I’ve got my degrees of rotation set at 900 through the TM software. It’s been a while since I’ve checked...
 
cjr3559
Didn’t even pay attention to his degrees of rotation until just now. I was really looking for better FFB settings but 270 does seem really low. Then maybe he’s compensating for the smaller rim vs a real car? Think I’ve got my degrees of rotation set at 900 through the TM software. It’s been a while since I’ve checked...
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Maybe he sets it that low (the lowest you can actually) because he is in the known that this game played with a wheel feels, at the very least, strange and even slow when you make your wheel inputs. It is as if there were some in-built linearity that you cannot scape from, not to mention the ffb is off, and literally non-existent on tarmac. DR2 with a wheel indeed isn't any good.

Still, 270º for a guy like him that is supposed to be a professional..., it makes me laugh. Sorry I have to say it that way. In a rally car you should not sport less than 540º (and will still feel twichy at that range), which speaks volumes of the idea CM has for playing their games with a wheel.

I do remember the first days of the first dirt rally when a dev jumped in the conversation and said that the game was made to be played at 270º (then everybody told him WTF!!! it should not be that way!), and they fixed it. Now, after watching this guy (who was a consultant on the handling aspect of the game, involved precisely in the handling with a wheel and the FFB) setting his wheel at 270º..., that doesn't say any good about the game for those who want it to play it with a wheel.

Scaff
He also has soft lock set to on in DR2.0, so the TM panel setting is meaningless as the soft lock will override it.
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yeah, this guy is kind of a... weirdo right
 
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fernandito
Still, 270º for a guy like him that is supposed to be a professional..., it makes me laugh. Sorry I have to say it that way. In a rally car you should not sport less than 540º (and will still feel twichy at that range), which speaks volumes of the idea CM has for playing their games with a wheel.
yeah, this guy is kind of a... weirdo right
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540º is right for R4 and R5 cars (and WRC as well).
 
So after accounting for the torque difference between his wheel and mine I gave them a go and I have to say they are not bad at all. It's not going to give you a great deal of feedback, but that has never been a DR2.0 strong point anyway, certainly does make countersteering easier and it's closer to how an assisted rack would feel.

I ended up with the following:

SAT: 50
Wheel Friction: 14
Tyre Friction: 68
Suspension: 17
Collision: 15
Steering Centre Force: 100
 
Scaff
Review and footage of the Jon Armstrong FFB settings (converted to T300)

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Thanks! this is incredibly useful and I'm going to test it now.
I love rally but was disappointed by DR2, to the point of buying WRC8, which almost broke my T300 wheel due to that rumbling effect.
Now I have another reason to give DR2 a chance.
 
MarcoV
Thanks! this is incredibly useful and I'm going to test it now.
I love rally but was disappointed by DR2, to the point of buying WRC8, which almost broke my T300 wheel due to that rumbling effect.
Now I have another reason to give DR2 a chance.
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Hope they work out for you
 
Scaff
Hope they work out for you
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Going to test them right now.
Do you have any specific settings in term of saturation of steering and brakes, etc?
I actually have a doubt about the ingame calibration.
My wheel is set to 900 on the PC.
At PS4 Boot up, it's correctly on 900 but switches to 1080 at the game startup.
I can then manually reswitch it to 900 to i can calibrate the 900 degrees steering ratio properly.

But I need to test if the wheel will still be at 900 at the next startup, otherwise it's useless and I'd rather stay with 1080 and a 1080 calibration, as soft lock should take care of everything.
 
FrankieStail
Steering saturation at 60 will give 1 to 1 with in game wheel.
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This is also what I've been thinking and what everyone recommends but then again, there is no saturation needed, and IMHO this is because the wheel is set to 1080 but the game locks properly according to the car's steering,thanks to soft lock.
I'm testing it now on a R2 car . The wheel blocks if I'm turning more than 270 degrees in any direction. and it's matching perfectly with my movements.
 
It’s only way I can get handbrake button on older cars.
I don’t have wheel on view but checked when I got game and even with softlock on with g29 steering was out with sat 100.

Odd thing that with dr1 I didn’t need to change saturation but with my sat at 60 in dr2 and softlock on, I’m getting same rotations as in dr1 at sat 100.
 
MarcoV
Going to test them right now.
Do you have any specific settings in term of saturation of steering and brakes, etc?
I actually have a doubt about the ingame calibration.
My wheel is set to 900 on the PC.
At PS4 Boot up, it's correctly on 900 but switches to 1080 at the game startup.
I can then manually reswitch it to 900 to i can calibrate the 900 degrees steering ratio properly.

But I need to test if the wheel will still be at 900 at the next startup, otherwise it's useless and I'd rather stay with 1080 and a 1080 calibration, as soft lock should take care of everything.
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I leave mine set to 1080, as the soft lock sorts out the correct rotation by car.
 
I just bought this game last week for PC as it's on steam sale (75% off until august 15th). These are the setting I use after some experimenting. Wheel saturation at 40 gives me around 360degrees lock to lock which is perfect for me.

Fanatec settings:
SEN: AUT
FF: 95%
SHO: 100%
ABS: OFF
DRI: OFF
FOR: 100%
SPR: 100%
DPR: 100%
FEI: 90

dirtrally2 2020-08-09 16-47-43-99.jpg dirtrally2 2020-08-09 16-47-49-52.jpg
 
EnzoRacer
my settings for G29 on PS4.
i calibrated wheel for 900 degrees, then set saturation as 40 (for getting ingame wheels with 360 degrees) and then disable softlock.
on the ice and wet asphalt/gravel wheel feels "empty" but it's ok for me because more important is that i can feel car when speed, surface are changing. I like these settings when driving at Australia, Argentina and NZ, because i feel tire friction on gravel, bumps on rocks and stones.
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Wow! Thanks to your settings I can enjoy this awesome game again. I just switched from a controller to the G29 & I was having a lot of trouble keeping it on the road with the default settings.
 
Very confusing variety of settings on offer above. I have left the settings on default (with T500 wheel) & they feel fine to me ... but what do I know? I'm kinda loathe to mess around with the settings too much.
 
A question, at home we were experimenting with various settings but couldn't find out why all cars tend to wander around a little bit, it's hard to point them straight, the effect reminds me on how cars in GT3 handles. Is this how the physics work in Dirt 2.0 or is there something else we're missing in the wheel settings?

It's a PC version, 1.19 up-to-date version I think. I feel we're close to finding good settings (we mostly mess up now with saturation, soft lock, and linearity), but need help with the steering precision (or whatever that is making cars steer like that).
 

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