Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

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Blkout
Try this again, if this doesn't work, you may need to flash the firmware again, just make sure you follow the manual exactly as it states. The manual hasn't been wrong yet for me.


6.2 Start-Up procedure

Step5: If the wheel center was not yet calibrated ‘CAL’
is blinking on the LED display of the Steering Wheel as
shown on the picture on the right hand side:
Do manual wheel center calibration as described
in chapter ‘Hotkeys’ of this manual.
The ClubSport Wheel Base V2 is ready to use
after manual wheel center calibration.


7.1 Hotkeys
7.1.1 Tuning menu
To enter the tuning menu use tuning
menu button (usually the small black button

close to the LED display of the used
Fanatec Steering Wheel; see corresponding
quick guide of your Fanatec Steering
Wheel). The picture just shows the tuning
menu button on top of the ClubSport Universal
Hub as an example:

7.1.2 Wheel center calibration
If a center calibration is needed (e.g. after updating the firmware of the Club-
Sport Wheel Base V2) first you need to enter the tuning menu as described
above.
When you use a regular Fanatec Steering Wheel
like the BMW M3 GT2, the Formula Black or Formula

Carbon or the Porsche 918 RSR you must
press the left and right stick at the same time.
Please see corresponding quick guide of the Fanatec

Steering Wheel you use at the ClubSport
Wheel Base V2.
Click to expand...

Yes it is first entering tuning menu THEN press both sticks !

rFactor2/Assetto Corsa/GT6 \o/

My daughters have enough Lego Friends and Monster High for months so let me race until death !!!
 
Blkout
So all set now?
Click to expand...

Yes.

I am really impressed by the new base. I did not expect that the improved precision would help that much.

GT6 with the latest FFB patch/improvement and this wheel is simply a new game.

rFactor 2 is still very nice, but I did not found how to make the rev-meter and the wheel display working with Fanaled. It was working fine with the CSR Elite.

But with Assetto Corsa O-O !!!
I am blown away with the result. I am able to drive the Lotus open wheeler in pro setting and I am able to base my reaction on what I feel more than on what I see. I have made a "flat" on the front right tire after a wheel lock and I felt it in the wheel O-O !!!
I now understand why F1 drivers call the pit to tell them that their cars are hard to handle because of vibrations of the front wheels !!!

Really, I never imagine that I will be able to experiment a so detailed and realistic simulation with something that is that accessible.

By the way Kunos did an amazing job on AI optimizations, I am able to run races on my Q6600 2.4GHz \o/

Congratulations to both Kunos and Fanatec developers !

Edit : not a big deal, but the base start to make some crack noise when turning fast on the right. Could it be the belt that slips ?

Edit 2 : just the spring of the quick release. I turn it a little bit, the noise disappears.
 
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K_Soze
Yes.

I am really impressed by the new base. I did not expect that the improved precision will help that much.

GT6 with the latest FFB patch/improvement and this wheel is simply a new game.

rFactor 2 is still very nice, but I did not found how to make the rev-meter and the wheel display working with Fanaled. It was working fine with the CSR Elite.

But with Assetto Corsa O-O !!!
I am blown away with the result. I am able to drive the Lotus open wheeler in pro setting and I am able to base my reaction on what I feel more than on what I see. I have made a "flat" on the front right tire after a wheel lock and I felt it in the wheel O-O !!!
I now understand why F1 drivers call the pit to tell them that their cars are hard to handle because of vibrations of the front wheels !!!

Really, I never imagine that I will be able to experiment a so detailed and realistic simulation with something that is that accessible.

By the way Kunos did an amazing job on AI optimizations, I am able to run races on my Q6600 2.4GHz \o/

Congratulations to both Kunos and Fanatec developers !

Edit : not a big deal, but the base start to make some crack noise when turning fast on the right. Could it be the belt that slips ?

Edit 2 : just the spring of the quick release. I turn it a little bit, the noise disappears.
Click to expand...


RaceRoom Racing Experience is the best yet with this wheel base. rFactor 2 64-bit doesn't work with Fanaleds I read on the ISI forums. They switched to 64 bit client a few months back.

Are you using the secure pin at the bottom of the quick release? I always install that pin even though it doesn't say you have to, it only takes 10 seconds and it will guarantee your rim doesn't move on the base.
 
Blkout
RaceRoom Racing Experience is the best yet with this wheel base. rFactor 2 64-bit doesn't work with Fanaleds I read on the ISI forums. They switched to 64 bit client a few months back.

Are you using the secure pin at the bottom of the quick release? I always install that pin even though it doesn't say you have to, it only takes 10 seconds and it will guarantee your rim doesn't move on the base.
Click to expand...

No, I did not found the secure pin in the wheel base box nor the Porsche rim box.
 
K_Soze
No, I did not found the secure pin in the wheel base box nor the Porsche rim box.
Click to expand...

Interesting, I think one was included with my universal hub but I can't recall. I got the V2 base of course, a universal hub and the new GT rim.
 
The pin comes with the wheel rims and mine was taped to the inside of the box lid. Double check the Porsche wheel box for a small plastic bag taped inside. They are easy to miss.
 
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@Fanatec... My wife spoiled me with an Xbox One this Christmas and I can't wait to hear the latest news regarding the compatible rim for the CSW v2. It's going to be hard to resist playing the newest Forza titles with a gamepad. I... can't go back to those dark times.
 
12thgear
@Fanatec... My wife spoiled me with an Xbox One this Christmas and I can't wait to hear the latest news regarding the compatible rim for the CSW v2. It's going to be hard to resist playing the newest Forza titles with a gamepad. I... can't go back to those dark times.
Click to expand...

This is the reason I'm still holding on to my Thrustmaster TX. When Fanatec decides to release the Xbox One rim, I can finally let go of my beloved TX.
 
K1LLD0z3R
The pin comes with the wheel rims and mine was taped to the inside of the box lid. Double check the Porsche wheel box for a small plastic bag taped inside. They are easy to miss.
Click to expand...

Third time I check the rim box and I found it (my wife calls that "men's eyes").
Once the pin in place, no more noise when turning on the right.
 
ron24
got my CSW V2 today. now just waiting for PS4 support.
Click to expand...

You will probably try it on a PC with one of the amazing sim available, then you will think more about an upgraded PC than to a PS4 compatible rim. Assetto Corsa or rFactor (the GoKart !!!) are so addictive.
 
Im kind of thinking the same thing right now for the xbox one wheels. My current computer would need a full rebuild, and was just trying to put it off for a while. Was also considering the oculus consumer version when it is released, but wanted to make sure the computer will be able to handle it.
 
I'm getting strange metallic "clonk" noise, when turning left or right from the center at around 200 degrees of rotation.

In full rotation lock to lock, noise appears twice. Once at the center and on top before the opposite lock. No wheel attached. I only rotate the shaft, the base is shut down.

If the base is powered up and wheel attached, it is much less noticable, but i feel it's still there.
 
Carson79
One or two in thousands is really good. Everyone else seem to be very happy. If there were hundreds I'd be concerned.
Click to expand...

I'm still very happy with it. It's a minor quirk barely noticeable while racing with FFB and sound, but for the price paid it shouldn't be there.
 
InSight
I'm still very happy with it. It's a minor quirk barely noticeable while racing with FFB and sound, but for the price paid it shouldn't be there.
Click to expand...

I would agree with that now. Seems like many people just accept quality issues with the Clubsport pedals but I wouldn't. For the price you pay for this stuff, you expect it to certainly work out of the box correctly. If it develops issues 2-3 years later, that's at least understandable.
 
And now my CSW v2 is broken. It started while hot lapping in iRacing. Everything has been fine until tonight when suddenly I noticed the FFB sort of gave out and even though the wheel would still turn it was extremely notchy and made a sort of grinding noise. I turned the wheel off and it would turn fine left and right, very smooth again, so I powered it back on and it wouldn't even calibrate, the wheel just sat there, so I gave it a slight push with my finger and it went through the calibration very slowly and sounded like it had some resistance. It finished the calibration process but when you turn the wheel left or right, it makes a grinding sound. I took two videos and sent them to Fanatec with a description of the problem. I guess I've got to get in line now for warranty support. It really sucks because I love this wheel but now I'm worried about reliability for the long term. Mine is only 11 days old. My Thrustmaster TX is 9 months old and I've put it through a lot more and its still working fine. Glad I have it as a back-up.

I'll post an update after I hear from Fanatec support.
 
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After 2 weeks of GT6 with my CSW V2 with in-game FFB @ 7, and wheel FFB @ 80, my V2 one day suddenly started to make the 'clonking', 'knocking', 'grinding' sound that some are posting about above. I restarted the V2 a few times, not wanting to accept what was happening....I had the V1, which served me well....but now the V2 is clonking, knocking & grinding away whenever the wheel was turning or calibrating (with & without the rim attached).

So I cracked open a beer, stared at the V2, finished the beer, still staring at V2 with some dis-belief, and a good dose of disappointment. Then out came the allen keys, and I decided to deal with this disappointment by taking my V2 apart.

Turned out what was causing my V2 to clonk, knock and grind was the belt pulling the pulley being too tight....so I unscrewed the cluster of 3 allen screws at the left of the V2 unit, and shift all 3 allen screws just slightly to the right (ie towards the wheel/motor), to lessen the tension of the belt attached to the pulley that the 3 allen screws are holding in place. This fixed the problem with my V2....it has been quiet & smooth since, even after the Suzuka 10 lap Survival Race.

I'm glad I got lucky stumbling upon the solution to my V2's 'clonking'. 'knocking' problem....but what I want to know is....how did the belt suddenly one night became too tight under normal use, thus causing the 'knocking' sound?
 
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Sounds more like a bearing issue to me.

It's gone now because of lower belt tension, but i fear it will come back at another day to haunt you.
 
Thanks HoiHman.

Can you please enlighten me with a little bit more info...where is this bearing situated in the V2, and what is it doing (or not doing) to cause the 'knocking' sound?

And should it happens again, what is the solution (other than sending it back)? I want to learn to DIY it, if it is possibly something that I can fix or adjust myself.

Thanks mate.
 
With less tension on the belts, the bearings are stressed a lot less, that why i'm guessing it's a bearing. They are located between the shaft and the housing (front and back)

Not sure i can give you more info mate, my best advice would be sending the wheelbase back and let Fanatec check it out to be sure. If it's all fine now, at least send the wheel back to be checked out in the warranty period.
 

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