Fanatec Announcements: CSW V2 Reviews Out

  • Thread starter Crispy
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Finally signed up for iracing this past Friday... This game will be taking up alot of my time lol the online game play is the best experience so far, but I only have gt5/6 and Forza to compare it to.

I now want a phone mount attached to the csw wheel. Is there anyone that makes that? Or any easy mounting options? I want to use my phone as gauges
 
HoiHman
M7LfVqT.jpg

uPbGtJN.jpg


https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...shboard-gs-4-seat.245923/page-11#post-9675759
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@lazjet
 
i myself did the Simprojects Pro-Gauge / Pro-Shift solution with a BMW E36 Car Cluster, works perfectly with pCars and AC

or do this...
 
I put my CSW v2 through an absolute beating today. 3 constant hours of people not accustom to sim racing yanking on the wheel, sawing back and forth, jamming on full lock, etc. Not a hitch. After the nightmare was over, I proceeded to do a couple laps in AC and it barely noticeable the wheel had just been abused (I did notice a slight power loss, but nothing substantial ~5-10%). I personally think these kinds of experiences are important to highlight given how finicky the V1 was.
 
PzR Slim
Good news!



https://www.fanatec.com/forum/discussion/152/yes-really
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That was posted Feb 19th with no new information since then.

paskowitz
I put my CSW v2 through an absolute beating today. 3 constant hours of people not accustom to sim racing yanking on the wheel, sawing back and forth, jamming on full lock, etc. Not a hitch. After the nightmare was over, I proceeded to do a couple laps in AC and it barely noticeable the wheel had just been abused (I did notice a slight power loss, but nothing substantial ~5-10%). I personally think these kinds of experiences are important to highlight given how finicky the V1 was.
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I've been enjoying mine for the last 2 months since getting it back from repair but two nights ago, the rear fan starting buzzing. It sounds like the bearings are drying out. I'm sure its a cheap Chinese fan but that's still frustrating because the sound is rather annoying.
 
Blkout
No problem, you got me all excited when I saw your post, I thought something new developed since the orginal post. :D
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i thought the same when i saw the post lol was sad when i clicked it. After receiving my CSW V2 i stopped following the blog ahaha. Hopefully some news comes up soon since project cars is around the corner.

Now that i got a PC though the only game id be getting on Xbone is Forza -_- and i read an article yesterday that even that might be releasing on PC with the addition of windows 10 :crazy:
 
i have been playing alot of iracing lately, that plus the CSW V2 have been amazing :). I think my CSS SQ v1.5 may be going bad :( when in sequential it has problems down shifting, it seems to not register the down shift properly and goes into neutral, not sure if it maybe a setting issue or maybe i need to loosen or tighten the tension on the shifter. But last night i also noticed that shifting into 5th was having some issues registering :scared:
 
lazjet
i have been playing alot of iracing lately, that plus the CSW V2 have been amazing :). I think my CSS SQ v1.5 may be going bad :( when in sequential it has problems down shifting, it seems to not register the down shift properly and goes into neutral, not sure if it maybe a setting issue or maybe i need to loosen or tighten the tension on the shifter. But last night i also noticed that shifting into 5th was having some issues registering :scared:
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Don't tell me that, my CSS SQ v1.5 is scheduled to ship any day now. Actually it was scheduled to ship on Feb 28 but it hasn't yet.
 
I too had to get a RMA wheel. I play way too much for someone my age and while trying a lot of settings from stock Fanatec (wow serious hammer time) to my lowly ff and for plus game low 2,4. I can see the wheel delivers feel and punch and or both.

So far with many hours (20 a week sometimes, 10 at least) the wheel continues to perform. I have a BMW and F1 wheel at present and am waiting for PS4 announcement. I will rejoin the PC crowd if I wind up disappointed.
 
Spacing the CSv2 pedals is not difficult, if someone is considering it. All you need is 20mm aluminium pipe for custom spacers and you slide the pedals left and right across the bars. Two pedal config is no problem:

image.jpg


Makes the braking much better on the GT and formula cars I drive 99% of the time, not having both feet cramped together.
 
InSight
Spacing the CSv2 pedals is not difficult, if someone is considering it. All you need is 20mm aluminium pipe for custom spacers and you slide the pedals left and right across the bars. Two pedal config is no problem:

image.jpg


Makes the braking much better on the GT and formula cars I drive 99% of the time, not having both feet cramped together.
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Great to hear :)

Planning to do the same, but i will put the pedals a little bit closer together.

Got the aluminium pipes 3 days ago (together with a lot aluminium for my rig)
I wasn't sure about the thickness so i ordered 20mmx1 , 20mmx1,5 and 20mmx2

It will probably be the last project on my very long list.
 
Has anyone else experienced this? (Copy pasted from my post on the iracing forum)


"So I had an issue today where it felt like the wheel was falling off and making that horrible knocking noise. First I thought it was the rubber O-ring so I switched it, no fix. Second I tried another wheel, no fix.

It was only after the above that I noticed the 'end' of the column on the wheel (the bit with the keyway on it) was actually loose and turning independently of the main shaft. The cause? Those 5 really tiny bolts next to the electrical connector, every single one of them was loose! tightened them up, slop went away, noise went away
3b63d1616c5dfcf29f8a7a031aaa7cad.gif
"
 
Richvw
So much easier to do something like this
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/23798196/Pedals.jpg
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Much easier, but looks like a half solution to me. I prefer removing the clutch entirely and centering both pedals.

Tiddy
Has anyone else experienced this? (Copy pasted from my post on the iracing forum)


"So I had an issue today where it felt like the wheel was falling off and making that horrible knocking noise. First I thought it was the rubber O-ring so I switched it, no fix. Second I tried another wheel, no fix.

It was only after the above that I noticed the 'end' of the column on the wheel (the bit with the keyway on it) was actually loose and turning independently of the main shaft. The cause? Those 5 really tiny bolts next to the electrical connector, every single one of them was loose! tightened them up, slop went away, noise went away
3b63d1616c5dfcf29f8a7a031aaa7cad.gif
"
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It's a well know problem and totally unacceptable this still happens.
 
As far as the screws coming loose, this happens to a lot of people. Remember guys, Chinese factory. They are NOT at the top of their game yet. Fanatec needs to put their own QC in place in the factory, but apparently don't.

The thread locking compound they use seems very hit or miss on whether it actually does any locking. Surely they are using Chinese thread locking compound. Doubt that they are cleaning the screws and using the threadlock primer either, which means the screws will have oil from the manufacturing process still on them also.

The screws are also pretty rubbish as well. I have cut countless set screws out of stock CSW V1 motor pulleys when they crack at the corner of the hex socket and the wrench just spins and rounds off due to the hex opening up because of the cracked socket corner. From cutting the things I can tell you they are very soft - not at all comparable to a good quality U.S.-made screw like Holo-Krome or the like.
 
HoiHman
Much easier, but looks like a half solution to me. I prefer removing the clutch entirely and centering both pedals.
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It also adds more pressure to the brake pedal, I put in the strong clutch spring from the old tuning kit and it feels really good. Maybe just try fixing the pedals together before you remove the clutch, see how it feels, just for comparison, you never know, you might like it.
 
Hi guys.
Not sure if there isa thread for my question or not, but thought you guys would know here.

Just converted from a TM TX to my first fanatic rig. I cant seem to get the wheel display lights to work on my formula rim and v2 base.

Like I said, its all new to me. Lights work in test function on pc driver properties but not in game.
Do I need a data plug etc? The game is Assetto corsa.

Any help pointing me in the right direction for settings etc? New to this super gear.

Cheers kwaka
 
KWAKAMAN
Hi guys.
Not sure if there isa thread for my question or not, but thought you guys would know here.

Just converted from a TM TX to my first fanatic rig. I cant seem to get the wheel display lights to work on my formula rim and v2 base.

Like I said, its all new to me. Lights work in test function on pc driver properties but not in game.
Do I need a data plug etc? The game is Assetto corsa.

Any help pointing me in the right direction for settings etc? New to this super gear.

Cheers kwaka
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You need http://www.fanaleds.com/
 
SASKCHAUCH
Cuz that looks like arse
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It's all about feel, not looks. After a few hours playing in socks with the normal pedals, my feet got sore. Now I can play all day with a better than standard brake pedal. That is an old picture, I did the same with the throttle pedal and made the brake pedal even bigger, happy days.
 
Too many toys ! It takes me years to get first a CSR Elite Wheel, then Clubsport pedals V2, then Clubsport Base V2 and 918 rim :)

Conclusion : if you want to be able to have this kind of gears, don't go video game programmer !!! :D
 

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