Fanatec ClubSport Pedal V2 - Tuning

RacerXX
Oh I haven't left, I do travel some though. Was just away for a few days for my son's College Graduation for instance.

In general I suggest trying things out and doing lots of measurements, slo-mo video analysis, splits... Then make some mods to address things that seem to be of concern. Most ideas will tend to fail however the process is geek-fun and sometimes you will find some gold nuggets. I have found many in sim land and have posted about a few to a limited extent.

Someone mentioned using lock angle to improve countersteer. This is not AT ALL what I am talking about and diminishes immersion in order to gloss over or cover up inadequate wheel performance. Sim > Arcade steering from my perspective however some feel otherwise. Some don't care for immersion (which is fine) but I want it. As much as I can get without the wheel holding back my on-track antics.

What I have noted, measured, documented, and shared is something different than the Just Change Lock Angle strategy. I found that many sim wheels slightly hold back "Driver Intent". As in achievable wheel RPMs directly due to hand speed inputs. Actual / physical steering wheel movement in your hands as opposed to someone's idea to just move your real hands very slightly on the real steering wheel and then seeing the virtual sim wheel on screen move a huge amount due to artificial wheel angle / lock angle adjustment. That's way too fake, and it is unnecessary. I did lots of before / after studies comparing actual achievable wheel rpms during actual race or qually laps. Comparing a normal drag and uber low drag wheel I could not achieve the same level of car control which turned out to be wheel speed related. Posted about it elsewhere. You can do some of your own comparisons if you'd like since the human factor is necessarily involved.
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Racer.. I work in web-development. Its a highly competitive field yet we share discoveries and methods freely via Stack Overflow and you wanna know what the result of that is?

Community Growth. Plain and simple the whole community benefits from sharing of information. Not just one individual like you seem to think and no one is penalized for sharing what they know and we are talking about an industry worth millions. Stack overflow also hosts a bunch of information on all sorts of different programming languages too.

The point is, we are all geeks, we all try stuff and we share discoveries. I thought the point of a community forum like this one was to share ideas and knowledge. All you have done so far is talk about your own unverified accomplishments and then in some twisted as **** way you expect us to just follow you somehow..

The whole thing is bizzare and almost surreal.

Anyway, I stopped chasing the zero-drag counter steer unicorn loooong ago because I develped space butter. I even made a video and posted it for folks to see how awesome it was. It was endorsed by Princess Lea and Han Solo so what more could I ask for?

Also, this thread was about the CSP - V2's so how about we keep it "On Topic" as you so often tell us to do? No one cares about your zero drag wheel ******** and we especially don't care about it on this thread.

You shared your CSP mod, some ppl like it.. others disagreed. If you have something else to add in that regard go ahead. But if you wanna talk about wheel drag again I am out. THAT SHIP HAS SAILED BRO!!!!
 
Hi, I found this thread while Googling for solutions to my Fanatec Clubsport Pedals V2 brake problems. My pedals are not mounted into a racing rig, they just sit on the floor. And when I go to apply the brakes with the sensitivity set at 100%, I can only get about 50% braking before the unit starts to tilt and move. In other words, I'd like to make my brake pedal softer. I have tried various settings, moved the pedals around and nothing seems to help.

Is there a way to change where the load cell arm connects to the pedal arm? Maybe if I could get some more leverage by moving this mounting point, then it wouldn't take such a ridiculous amount of effort to move the brake pedal. The current pedal feel does not feel anything like the brake pedal in my MX5. And I am loosing a lot of time in races by not getting full braking during cornering. I overcook a lot of corners because of this.

I have ordered a set of replacement pedals without the load cell in an effort to solve this problem. But if anyone has any suggestions, I'd love to salvage these things.

Thanks,

MX
 
You can change the pivot hole for the brake pedal, but I think you would be well served by trying to find a way to secure the pedals so they don't tip at all. Only then will you really know if the feel is right or wrong for you.

Don't know what you are sitting on but often using the weight of the seat/your body, is the best way. Is there any chance that you could have a piece of mdf sandwiched between your chair and floor, running out to the pedals? You could then just use velcro to attach the pedals to the mdf.
 
Great tips guys. I put the brakes on the bottom hole, and oh man, it's soft as a baby's bottom now. I can actually play in socks. This is great. I think I might now have to add a stiffer spring. But I'd rather be too soft than too hard ... or, wait. Nevermind, you get what I'm saying. I can make it stiffer. And when I finally build the pvc racing rig, I'll mount it and change it back. Man, you would not believe how much I searched the internet for a discussion of this issue. Glad it's finally resolved.
 
I just bought a set of v2s, and also bought these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281403695250
I'll get some decent oil at the RC shop near me, and I also have the GT-Eye spring for G25 currently installed in my G25 pedals so I might see if I can fit that to the shock too. If anyone has done this could you please tell me if it's any good? What weight of oil should I get?

I intend on installing the new brake before I even use the pedals for them first time. I'm looking forward to seeing how the load cell feels.
 
Punknoodle
I just bought a set of v2s, and also bought these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281403695250
I'll get some decent oil at the RC shop near me, and I also have the GT-Eye spring for G25 currently installed in my G25 pedals so I might see if I can fit that to the shock too. If anyone has done this could you please tell me if it's any good? What weight of oil should I get?

I intend on installing the new brake before I even use the pedals for them first time. I'm looking forward to seeing how the load cell feels.
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You'll be pleasantly surprised with the feel of the Load cell and Mugen shock combo, IMO the stock fana shock lacks the ability to properly dampen the forces our feet are able to apply. For Oils I personally run 35wt with the stock pistons. I Dont know if you can get the GT-Eye spring to fit, but be sure to let me know if you can.
 
Nick Moxley
You'll be pleasantly surprised with the feel of the Load cell and Mugen shock combo, IMO the stock fana shock lacks the ability to properly dampen the forces our feet are able to apply. For Oils I personally run 35wt with the stock pistons. I Dont know if you can get the GT-Eye spring to fit, but be sure to let me know if you can.
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Thanks, I just bought a bottle of Losi 35wt oil too.

Next up will be the CSW itself, Forumla Rim, Universal Hub and GT wheel. Sick of racing with my toy of a wheel (G25).
 
I got home for the weekend from work, and opened up my new toys that arrived while I was away..

Changed the oil in my new shock and installed the GT-Eye spring (it fits!)
31A74B8C-3ECD-4458-87DA-F564D031D16A_zpsq7kh5xw9.jpg

A56C782B-04EA-4902-A5FF-83C286AF070E_zpsig8cxgxg.jpg

Did I feel a little anxious about taking to my new expensive pedals with an angle grinder? Surprisingly not...
8B5AD420-D0E6-44DF-B9AF-ECD7F5FF5308_zpsyrzo5c1w.jpg

I'll let you know how if feels and drives later..
 
Thanks, I followed your link and after going through all the re-listings got one and it was a bit cheaper.
Also got the GT eye spring.
Looking forward to these a lot, I've tried different springs and oil but they never quite hit the spot.
the last spring was too stiff and when I went back to the original it felt like there was no tension at all.
 
Part of the problem Carson is the stock Shock is JUNK in yo trunk!!, the piston has Tonnes of blow by and doesn't really effectively do its job, Oring's have a piss poor seal and essentially let air in causing the shock to go all mushy and all the while leaking oil all over the place. (yes aftermarket Orings help but are still not worth the hassle) Typical fana, Sourcing a .50$ part to make an extra 5$ on the back end when they could have sourced decent shocks from one of the RC mfg's and made everyone happy.

Kinda like the motor situation they are currently revisiting right now with the V2 base. Those 2$ Motor's were never Going to last and its surprising as many still work as they do.(all be it with probably a Life clock thats Slowly winding down lol Myself included.) However i do plan to go with the Ekretz mod sooner than later to ensure my base will live for Many years to come.


for the modification Just make sure you guys cover up the pedals real Good with some towel's or Rags or something to prevent any filing's from making there way over to the Circuit board for the Load cell, Also suggest a blow off with some compressed air or an Air compressor after your done. Doesn't take much but you can blatantly see where it needs to be removed once you try and install the shock.


PS Let me know how the GTeye Spring works for you guys, Kinda curious now if i need one. ( bah who's kidding I NEED IT!)


PPS did a buddy pedals the other day and realized the Hole for the upper shock mount (Little Body Clip) wasn't lined up properly So i took a large pair of Channel Locks (Big Plyers) and U can Spin the bushing in the mount. It has a Knurled finish and it pressed it but you CAN spin it.
 
Yeah I didn't even try the pedals with the stock shock after reading about it, had my replacement shock ready to go as soon as my pedals arrived. Comparing it to the Mugen even with it's stock spring, the Mugen is a lot stiffer. Comparing it to the Mugen with the GT-Eye spring makes the stock one feel like it has no resistance at all. I like the resistance of it while pressing it with my foot. I have 35wt oil in the shock, it could possibly do with a heavier weight, I'll have to spend some time with it, I haven't had a chance to hook it up and race with them yet.
 
Did anybody resolve the jittering issue with the Fanatec pedals during modding?

I have a serious issue with jitter of the brake pedal when connected via PS/2 cable from pedal to wheel base (the brake pedal signal spikes by itself randomly, resulting in braking when racing).
When connecting the pedals directly via USB to a PC there is zero jitter and the signal is absolutely clean with precision.

Is this understood as a PS/2 cable issue?

I strongly would prefer to get the pedals connected by PS/2 to the wheelbase as that is the only means to race with console based sims and it is the only way to have "ABS" FFB through the wheelbase.

I am using as a base for my mod a Fanatec CSR Elite wheelbase + CSR Elite pedal set.
 
The best thing would be to get new cables. If your still under warranty contact Fanatec, their customer service is awesome.

On another note my GT eye spring came the other day.....It to is Awesome!
It fits on the stock shock fine at the min still waiting on the mugen.
I'm using 4000 CST oil, what is anyone else using?
 
Having the Pedals connected to the base is Not The Only way to get the abs Rumble. Fanaled's Covers Everything you could need as far as "Abs" rumble and Adjustable Shift light's Per game. Yes it is PC based, But just wanted to clarify.
 
Nick Moxley
Having the Pedals connected to the base is Not The Only way to get the abs Rumble. Fanaled's Covers Everything you could need as far as "Abs" rumble and Adjustable Shift light's Per game. Yes it is PC based, But just wanted to clarify.
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I'd never heard of Fanaleds so thanks for the heads up, looks like a great utility!
 
Carson79
The best thing would be to get new cables. If your still under warranty contact Fanatec, their customer service is awesome.
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Thanks for the tip - I am going to get some …

Nick Moxley
Having the Pedals connected to the base is Not The Only way to get the abs Rumble. Fanaled's Covers Everything you could need as far as "Abs" rumble and Adjustable Shift light's Per game. Yes it is PC based, But just wanted to clarify.
Click to expand...

Didn't know about this. Thanks and bookmarked for a later built (doesn't really fit into the rig I am building currently for historic racing). I would love to retain the feedback you get when reaching a certain pedal pressure as it helps a lot gauging how far you can push braking with cars without ABS.
 
Hi everyone, I have had a chance to do a few laps with my new rig (and hence, my modded v2 pedals).

I never tried the pedals in their stock state so I can't compare to them, however my previous experience is with the G25 pedals with the GT-Eye spring.

The feel of the brake pedal is really very good. Running the Mugen shock, 35wt oil and the GT-Eye spring from my G25s, it is incredibly stiff. I was in bare feet and my foot was getting quite sore. With the dial turned to 10 you have to press very hard to get it to 100%.

I'm quite impressed with the way the brake behaves, I'm still getting used to the threshold in which certain cars lock their brakes but it's certainly at a point well beyond the strength in which I would have to press the G25 pedals.

Having the load cell is taking a while to get used to, I find myself under-braking quite a bit as you have to apply so much pressure to the brake to get it to stop, much like you would in a real race car.

The feel of the hydraulic shock is also a big improvement over the G25s, it gives the brake that mild sponge feeling of a hydralic brake.

Overall, I'm very impressed with the feel of these pedals, I just have to get used to them, and wear socks!
 
If you are having to push harder than you would naturally tend to want to, I'd suggest running the brake at the higher sensitivity end of the scale. No use training yourself to brake harder and in turn putting more strain on the load cell unnecessarily.
 
LeMansAid
If you are having to push harder than you would naturally tend to want to, I'd suggest running the brake at the higher sensitivity end of the scale. No use training yourself to brake harder and in turn putting more strain on the load cell unnecessarily.
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I've actually been experimenting, I found that I had a significant dead zone at the start of travel, i would have to push it in a fair way to get it to register. I've now moved the little pin up by one hole, and wound the sensitivity down to just under half.
 
I've been running the same brake upgrade for about a month and love the feel, but I noticed the dead zone too.
I must have another tinker with it.
 
bumer
Real cars have dead zone too you know, but of course you don't have to replicate every little thing.
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Not to the extend that this had. Plus on a well bled race car set up the pedal is firm and starts to bite as soon as you touch it. On a road car, yeah it can be pretty sloppy at first take up. I wanted race car firm.
 
Same here Nick :)

I can never understand why Fanatec doesn't ship the ClubSport Pedals with the bar of the brake one position higher.
 

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