Fanatec CSR Settings

  • Thread starter StratonAce
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I've been snowed in for the past few days and I am finally going to pick up my copy of GT6. YAY!

Can my fellow Fanatec CSR users share their optimal settings? I figure you guys have had a couple of days to figure out good settings. :)
 
I've been snowed in for the past few days and I am finally going to pick up my copy of GT6. YAY!

Can my fellow Fanatec CSR users share their optimal settings? I figure you guys have had a couple of days to figure out good settings. :)

I would also like to know.
 
So far I am disappointed in the way my CSR wheel feels with Gt6. The force feedback seems very weak. I tried updating to the latest firmware and its a little better, but its not even close to the way it feels in Gt5, Forza, Race07 or iRacing. I hope they come out with a patch for this.

If anyone figures out how to make it work, please post.

I have everything set in game to full, and FF, SHO on the wheel to 100. If I'm doing something wrong please tell me.

Of course I should say the only track I used the wheel on so far is the Brands Hatch seasonal. Maybe other tracks, different cars work better?
 
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So far I am disappointed in the way my CSR wheel feels with Gt6. The force feedback seems very weak. I tried updating to the latest firmware and its a little better, but its not even close to the way it feels in Gt5, Forza, Race07 or iRacing. I hope they come out with a patch for this.

If anyone figures out how to make it work, please post.

I have everything set in game to full, and FF, SHO on the wheel to 100. If I'm doing something wrong please tell me.

Of course I should say the only track I used the wheel on so far is the Brands Hatch seasonal. Maybe other tracks, different cars work better?

I just switched back to my G27 because it just didn't feel right with the Fanatec. I will just use the Fanatec on PC sims.
 
My force feedback and wheel seem to be working fine. I've actually dialed it back a notch to 4 in game. Can't remember what firmware um using as I'm currently in bed typing on my tablet.
 
I just switched back to my G27 because it just didn't feel right with the Fanatec. I will just use the Fanatec on PC sims.

I guess I could go back to using my Logitech DFP, but seems like such a step backwards. I really hope there is a fix for this.
 
What wheel should I choose in the wheel selections of the GT6 menu? G25 1 or 2, g27 1or 2? Both of the G27 options look the same?
Noob question I'm sure, but I have no idea of the differences, or what to choose as I'm coming from using my wheel on FM3&4.
I have the regular CSR with Clubsport pedals, and use seq shifter BTW.

@Rick Nelson, Would you mind posting the Firmware you are currently running when you get the chance?

Thanks all,
AJ
 
What wheel should I choose in the wheel selections of the GT6 menu? G25 1 or 2, g27 1or 2? Both of the G27 options look the same?
Noob question I'm sure, but I have no idea of the differences, or what to choose as I'm coming from using my wheel on FM3&4.
I have the regular CSR with Clubsport pedals, and use seq shifter BTW.

@Rick Nelson, Would you mind posting the Firmware you are currently running when you get the chance?

Thanks all,
AJ


G25 I believe for button mapping. The 1 and the 2 are for player 1 and player 2. Use 1.
 
Thanks Jim. I really do hope my CSR FFB feels right when I get a chance to hook it up tomorrow. Seems like a 50/50 mix of success based on the opinions I have read.

I got used to running at about 25% FFB on forza, as it helped me shave those extra few hundredths off my lap times in hot lap comps, and I also figured it would be less wear on the FFB motors. So maybe I'll be able to live with it.. It really does make the cars feel more alive with it turned up a bit more though.

I hope more CSR users will chime in with their experience with GT6 so far. Maybe post up some wheel settings too.
 
Yeah, I've been trying to find good settings for several hours now and have had no luck, I just cannot get it feeling as good as it did with GT5. I'm also getting a bit of micro-stutter, or micro-shake from my wheel even when it's at rest, such as in one of the menus.

I really hope I can get things working as I really want to give my wheel and pedals as much use as I can before I retire them and move to the next generation consoles. They served me well through GT5 and the last Forza, but for the price we pay for these wheels and pedals it seems like we should get more out of them. I'm sad knowing we cannot use them on the PS4 or the Xbone.
 
Wheel Sen. OFF (I have not noticed a real diifference between 900/off, recommended is off.)
FF 90-100% (756 firmware with ACL)
Sho 90-100% (normally 100% in GT6)
ABS 65% or OFF
All other settings off or 0
ingame ffb 6
ingame power assisted steering off
ingame wheel G25/G27
 
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GTsimms settings work great. Thank you!

Also, solved my micro-shake by simply turning the system and the wheel off and then restarting both.

Sadly, I've had my PS3 crash entirely twice when trying to drop out of the game back to the PS3 menus. Both times it warned that I might have lost data and it had to do a scan of the system. Luckily I lost nothing from either crash. <sigh of relief>

I'm wondering if this crash might be caused by the wheel or simply from GT6 itself. Never had any crashes like that before, ever.
 
GTsimms settings work great. Thank you!

Also, solved my micro-shake by simply turning the system and the wheel off and then restarting both.

Sadly, I've had my PS3 crash entirely twice when trying to drop out of the game back to the PS3 menus. Both times it warned that I might have lost data and it had to do a scan of the system. Luckily I lost nothing from either crash. <sigh of relief>

I'm wondering if this crash might be caused by the wheel or simply from GT6 itself. Never had any crashes like that before, ever.

Did you change your firmware to the one GTsimms recommended? Maybe I need to find that firmware..
 
Did you change your firmware to the one GTsimms recommended? Maybe I need to find that firmware..

Yes I did. It may have also been the 756 firmware that eliminated the micro-shake in my wheel. Sadly it didn't elimiate my crashing, as the crashes have been happening before the firmware update and after it. Not even sure if the crashing is because of the wheel or the game itself.

Anyway, yes, the new firmware and GTsimms recommended settings work pretty well.
 
@Straton,
That crashing is strange.. Maybe try taking the game back to where you got it from, they should replace a defective copy if you explain that it is crashing your system.. thats one way to find out which is to blame.
I just checked and that is the last firmware I updated to a while back, so that saves me a step.
 
@Straton,
That crashing is strange.. Maybe try taking the game back to where you got it from, they should replace a defective copy if you explain that it is crashing your system.. thats one way to find out which is to blame.
I just checked and that is the last firmware I updated to a while back, so that saves me a step.

Yeah, 756 (I think) is the latest firmware. If you've got that, give GTsimms settings a try.

And after reading the forums it seems the crashing issues are happening to quite a few people (while others get no crashes at all)... So, crashes not caused by the wheel, which i was worried about.
 
I'm running firmware 756b
Game settings
Sim Steering(not sure if this makes any difference)
Power steering off
FF 5

Wheel settings
Sen 900
FF 90
ABS 95
Everything else off or zero apart from SPG -3, it's the most realistic, I've got it
 
The only problem with one specific setting, is with the game, it can be car dependant. One car, I might be at ffb 90/ sho 90, the next car 90/100, 100/90, or 100/100. I haven't experienced it yet in GT6, but I have heard that deadzone can fix the rocking on some cars. Fanatec recommends sens. to off and not 900 for GT.

Glad to hear settings helped!
 
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for some reason though, when i use the right/left paddle shifter, it doesn't navigate through the menus (as R1 or L1 should do). Any idea?
 
for some reason though, when i use the right/left paddle shifter, it doesn't navigate through the menus (as R1 or L1 should do). Any idea?
I've had this happen a few times.

Turn a controller on, hit R1 or L1 with it, then turn it back off.
 
Maybe I could get some help here for my problem. I've got Fanatec CSR wheel, CSR Elite pedals and shifter setup, but the clutch seems not to work at all for GT6. Do I need to configure it somehow? I have 756 firmware on wheel if that does matter and clutch is working fine with all the other games.
 
So far I am disappointed in the way my CSR wheel feels with Gt6. The force feedback seems very weak. I tried updating to the latest firmware and its a little better, but its not even close to the way it feels in Gt5, Forza, Race07 or iRacing. I hope they come out with a patch for this.

If anyone figures out how to make it work, please post.

I have everything set in game to full, and FF, SHO on the wheel to 100. If I'm doing something wrong please tell me.

Of course I should say the only track I used the wheel on so far is the Brands Hatch seasonal. Maybe other tracks, different cars work better?

so you manually updated the firmware of your wheel for GT6 via PC? can you do this for the T500 as well?
 
so you manually updated the firmware of your wheel for GT6 via PC? can you do this for the T500 as well?


Yes, I upgraded to firmware 756 via my PC. I do not know about the T500. I'm sure someone here is familiar with that wheel, and will chime in.
 
Wheel Sen. OFF (I have not noticed a real diifference between 900/off, recommended is off.)
FF 90-100% (756 firmware with ACL)
Sho 90-100% (normally 100% in GT6)
ABS 65% or OFF
All other settings off or 0
ingame ffb 6
ingame power assisted steering off
ingame wheel G25/G27
Using these settings now thanks, you say there is no difference between having sensitivity off or at 900? How do you explain this?
 

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