Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

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Wow, I'm sorry to hear that PD has seemingly nerfed the wheels again.

This is precisely why I decided to wait a bit before impulsively buying this new package, they've done this before with zero communication.
 
FMW
Funny you mention the "whistle". Oddly enough, I TOO noticed that with my DD PLUS. I thought it was just me being tired. Before the GT7 1.43 update, my base had a slight "coil whine". Not a big deal because it's super faint and you definitely can't hear it with any kind of ambient sound in the room. Now I hear the "whistle' you're talking about even with some ambient sound! :ouch: The official FANATEC forums say "firmware" can't cause or fix "coil whine", but this is coming from their "firmware" admin. I'm starting to get the impression that's not entirely true.
Mine was quiet before. Sat in a quiet room with it for a while 100% sure. Now. Definitely window cracked in the north country during winter, type whistling. The pitch varies almost in a trilling sort of way.

Now I play with vr so i really don’t care, but it definitely happened yesterday
 
Mine was quiet before. Sat in a quiet room with it for a while 100% sure. Now. Definitely window cracked in the north country during winter, type whistling. The pitch varies almost in a trilling sort of way.

Now I play with vr so i really don’t care, but it definitely happened yesterday
I noticed that too. Pitch varies. I also noticed the pitch varies depending on the position of the steering wheel. From what I've noticed, the pitch changes when the wheel is moved from dead center. I've put that to the test several times. At dead center, the pitch is super faint. Cock the wheel left or right and the pitch changes. I suspect this all has to do with the bases firmware/software constantly checking the rotors position at high frequencies, much like how R/C car brushless motors and the ESC's that control them constantly monitor the position of the rotor.
Here's the thing, I keep forgetting this fact about DD bases. They're basically 3-phase AC servo motors. Each manufacture plays around with the tech for our given hobby, but at the end of the day, they are servo motors. In the R/C hobby industry, we went to brushless motors about 20 years ago. The motors and the speed controls that power/control them also generate noise/whistle/whine, whatever people want to call it. You can only hear this on the bench and at 1-10% throttle. Once the car spools up, you can't hear a thing. Drivetrain noise drowns it out. The noise doesn't effect performance in any way, just like the bases from what I've experienced thus far. It's just the nature of the tech from what I see.
 
Mine is very low. Except instead of a whine, it's more like putting your ear up to a seashell. Made the mistake of putting my ear right on it, really got the seashell effect but at a low volume. Pulled my ear 3 inches back and I could still hear it. If I wasn't looking for it, I don't know if I would even hear it. Of course I have tinnitus, so who knows.
 
Just did about 90 minutes of testing. All in a GR.3 458, combination of racing softs and racing mediums on Bathurst (daily C TT), Interlagos (IMO PD has modeled this track the best as far as bumps and verb feel, not to mention that the corner sequences do a really good job of loading up the suspension on the car) and Nurburgring 24 hour.

My current settings for my DD1 are

IG: 7-1
FFB: 100 peak
FEI: 100
FOR: 120
Natural Damping: off (I previously thought I had it set to 5)
Natural Friction: 3


If there was a slight nerf in the FFB strength for my DD1, I didn't really notice it. The only time I noticed it feeling marginally weaker, was when I was doing daily C qualifying. But I think I can attribute it to there being no fuel in the car, and thus, less weight (I was running custom races in the other tests). I didn't notice a wider window of fidelity like some of you guys have reported. But that could be because my base wasn't affected (or it wasn't affected as much). Or I wouldn't notice it because I'm running such high values to begin with.

I never felt like I needed to turn up my IG values to compensate for lack of strength and fidelity. And I never felt like I needed to turn my base down because I had new-found fidelity that needed to be toned down.

I will however start experimenting with IG sensitivity values. I've always just left it at 1, because that's what Fanatec recommended - with me just turning up the IG torque values if I wanted more cowbell. What's the purpose of increasing sensitivity. To my knowledge, all it did was compress the signal and offer a narrower range - am I wrong?
 
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Wow, I'm sorry to hear that PD has seemingly nerfed the wheels again.

This is precisely why I decided to wait a bit before impulsively buying this new package, they've done this before with zero communication.
I personally wouldn't call it a nerf though.
At first glance it might appear as it has been nerfed but diving deeper down the Rabbit hole, I assume it was more of a necessary readjustment.

The Wheelbase felt way too powerful at low in game torque settings, making it hard to fine tune with the in game sliders.

I remember when I unpacked, installed and took it for a spin for the first time with my previous in game settings of 5/8 it felt borderline heavy and sluggish which made it absolutely undrivable imo.

Anything above 4 Torque in game was actually way over the top which should have not been the case.
We know how much enthusiasm PD puts into bringing us the best possible driving experience and they must have noticed that it just needed some readjustment.
I play a lot like really really, and I have a pretty good basic understanding how FFB should work and my experience tells me that it just wasn't right.

It felt good and put a huge smile on my face coming from a dd pro.

But to be honest it now feels even better.
It's more refined now.
The amount of detail is unbelievable.

I remember how the FFB started to fade on my DD Pro after longer sessions or sudden loss of fine granular details under heavy load.

Not with this base, absolutely astonishing how much Details are actually going on even with my current in game settings which are 5/7 and should translate to being 7.5NM of constant FFB.
The Tracks feel very different much more detailed throughout the whole circuit.
No more sudden disappearance of certain FFB effects under heavy load or during long sweeping corners.
The 15NM definitely give enough headroom even with 7.5NM constant force applied.
The Wheel feels very very real, with the correct amount of force and detail.
Maybe not as spikey as pre 1.43 but therefore with even more finesse, yet still hefty enough to give you a serious workout and realistic appearance of what it should or most probably could feel like in realife too.

Of course I can't judge exactly what it 5 10 or 15NM should exactly feel like but it's definitely more then enough to give me a realistic and very believable Impression of sitting behind a Wheel.

Good job PD I'm impressed 👍
 
Just did about 90 minutes of testing. All in a GR.3 458, combination of racing softs and racing mediums on Bathurst (daily C TT), Interlagos (IMO PD has modeled this track the best as far as bumps and verb feel, not to mention that the corner sequences do a really good job of loading up the suspension on the car) and Nurburgring 24 hour.

My current settings for my DD1 are

IG: 7-1
FFB: 100 peak
FEI: 100
FOR: 120
Natural Damping: off (I previously thought I had it set to 5)
Natural Friction: 3


If there was a slight nerf in the FFB strength for my DD1, I didn't really notice it. The only time I noticed it feeling marginally weaker, was when I was doing daily C qualifying. But I think I can attribute it to there being no fuel in the car, and thus, less weight (I was running custom races in the other tests). I didn't notice a wider window of fidelity like some of you guys have reported. But that could be because my base wasn't affected (or it wasn't affected as much). Or I wouldn't notice it because I'm running such high values to begin with.

I never felt like I needed to turn up my IG values to compensate for lack of strength and fidelity. And I never felt like I needed to turn my base down because I had new-found fidelity that needed to be toned down.

I will however start experimenting with IG sensitivity values. I've always just left it at 1, because that's what Fanatec recommended - with me just turning up the IG torque values if I wanted more cowbell. What's the purpose of increasing sensitivity. To my knowledge, all it did was compress the signal and offer a narrower range - am I wrong?
According to the in game explanation for "Sensitivity" values, it means:

・Force Feedback Sensitivity
Adjust the resistance of the steering wheel when you start to turn it. This resistance is an example of force feedback, which communicates information about the road surface to the driver through their tyres. The greater this value, the more responsive to changes the steering wheel will become. The lower this value, the more gentle steering becomes when driving in a straight line.

I've discovered this to still be true. The higher I set this value from 1, the more responsive the car seems to be to your inputs. It's not night and day, but it's there.
 
I just downgraded PC drivers, downgraded wheel FW, downgraded Base FW and left QR FW alone from 456 FW. Drove in GT7 for about an hour without one hiccup and FF feels really good.
Not saying it's cured or fixed, I'm thinking if I play long enough it may still do something weird but so far so good and much better than at any time since I've had the wheel.
Current FW versions
 
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I have thoughts.... This evening I was on a mission to figure out this 1.43 update as to how it affected the DD +. @PirovacBoy made some great observations! The more I played with my base tune, the more his observations made sense as I also noticed what he pointed out.

Anyway, I think the update ended up being a better deal. The settings I’ve now come up with are fun and quick! Lots of detail for GT7 and good power for my fitness level.

SENT-AUTO

FFB-58

Full Force-N/A

NDP-25

NFR-OFF (My BMW GT2 wheel with Podium Shifter Module is hefty-no need to add more friction. If you need more weight, up the base FFB)

NIN-OFF (You really should only use this for lightweight wheel rims)

INT-3

FOR-100

FEI-100

SPR-N/A (not supported in GT7)

DPR-N/A (not supported in GT7)

BLI-USER-P

BRK-85

IN-GAME

5 (previous 3)

5 (previous 4)

Also, going back to my NFR and NIN “off” settings… I noticed a quirk since day one. It was no big deal as it didn’t affect driving. That quirk was wheel shake at rest. Doesn’t matter if you were in game or not. The wheel would slightly vibrate left to right powered on. Little micro vibrations. I was convinced that it was being caused by one of the tuning menu settings. I had already ruled out being in game. In any case, both need to be off to get the micro vibrations to completely stop. Turning one or the other off by itself won’t stop it. I also noticed with these settings on, they hamper detail. That’s the impression I get. I don’t have these on in ACC, and that game feels great. Now GT7 feels good too and better with this update. I suspect that NFR and NIN will likely be fixed in a future firmware update. I can’t imagine micro vibrations being ideal. My DD PRO never vibrated with NFR and NIN on.
 
I personally wouldn't call it a nerf though.
At first glance it might appear as it has been nerfed but diving deeper down the Rabbit hole, I assume it was more of a necessary readjustment.

The Wheelbase felt way too powerful at low in game torque settings, making it hard to fine tune with the in game sliders.

I remember when I unpacked, installed and took it for a spin for the first time with my previous in game settings of 5/8 it felt borderline heavy and sluggish which made it absolutely undrivable imo.

Anything above 4 Torque in game was actually way over the top which should have not been the case.
We know how much enthusiasm PD puts into bringing us the best possible driving experience and they must have noticed that it just needed some readjustment.
I play a lot like really really, and I have a pretty good basic understanding how FFB should work and my experience tells me that it just wasn't right.

It felt good and put a huge smile on my face coming from a dd pro.

But to be honest it now feels even better.
It's more refined now.
The amount of detail is unbelievable.

I remember how the FFB started to fade on my DD Pro after longer sessions or sudden loss of fine granular details under heavy load.

Not with this base, absolutely astonishing how much Details are actually going on even with my current in game settings which are 5/7 and should translate to being 7.5NM of constant FFB.
The Tracks feel very different much more detailed throughout the whole circuit.
No more sudden disappearance of certain FFB effects under heavy load or during long sweeping corners.
The 15NM definitely give enough headroom even with 7.5NM constant force applied.
The Wheel feels very very real, with the correct amount of force and detail.
Maybe not as spikey as pre 1.43 but therefore with even more finesse, yet still hefty enough to give you a serious workout and realistic appearance of what it should or most probably could feel like in realife too.

Of course I can't judge exactly what it 5 10 or 15NM should exactly feel like but it's definitely more then enough to give me a realistic and very believable Impression of sitting behind a Wheel.

Good job PD I'm impressed 👍
Im still on the fence with the, not a nerf thing. Discovering that in game had to be bumped to ffb 6 to get a similar feel on the 911 at Bathurst leaves me wondering now what details ate being left on the table. And that, for a $1400 purchase, is disappointing and worrying. Now, don’t get me wrong, the wheel feels decent but i find myself wondering if im missing details instead of viscerally driving. Since 1.43 ive yet to find that pure edge of control, yet connected to the car while barreling down the mountain in traffic. ..and to have to out the game into the clipping danger zone is dang disappointing. I did try in game ffb 5 for a day. It just didn’t feel heavy enough for the gr3 911’s tires. Now I certainly don’t have the softest hands around, but still. Meh
 
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Im still on the fence with the, not a nerf thing. Discovering that in game had to be bumped to ffb 6 to get a similar feel on the 911 at Bathurst leaves me wondering now what details ate being left on the table. And that, for a $1400 purchase, is disappointing and worrying. Now, don’t get me wrong, the wheel feels decent but i find myself searching for details instead of viscerally driving. Since 1.43 ive yet to find that pure edge of control, yet connected to the car while barreling down the mountain in traffic. ..and to have to out the game into the clipping danger zone is dang disappointing. I did try in game ffb 5 for a day. It just didn’t feel heavy enough for the gr3 911’s tires. Now I certainly don’t have the softest hands around, but still. Meh
Just don't let yourself down.
It is what it is.
Like I explained it in my previous post.

To me it's just Numbers and Sliders that I have to move to get my Wheel setup and ready to go.

The base is still outputting 15NM of constant Torque, it's just the way how it is delivered that has been changed.

It's the torque Curve that has been adjusted.
And let me tell you that you definitely don't have to worry about clipping with your specific Wheelbase Settings.

You'll notice Clipping in GT7 when the FFB starts to buzz.

So don't worry about clipping.
Just drive and enjoy the gorgeous FFB which the DD+ has on offer. 😄
 
I got my Gran Turismo DD+ Extreme delivered yesterday, 03/01/24; from FedEx. Excited, happily mounted it, it turned on, wheel went round and round upon booting. Put it into my PS5, doesn’t seem to be recognized so I figure it might need that first firmware update. So I go connect it to my PC to update the firmware. I follow the instructions exactly. When I go look, the power button is no longer lit up or red; the wheel however, all 4 analogs are lit up white. Pressing buttons on the wheel does nothing; holding the power button for 3 seconds and 10 seconds does nothing. The wheel and base both are completely unresponsive. Not once was I ever able to properly use it or play a game with it. As for the situation on my hand, some forums say its defective out the box, some say the firmware crashed and bricked it. Either way, as anyone spending that amount of money can imagine, a new item out the box should not be having these issues. A big part of me wants to send it back and get my money back which in fact I have already started the refund process because I am so disappointed in Fanatec selling me something that doesn’t work out the box. I hope they read this and give me a solution, otherwise its going back. Has anyone here experienced this? Your help greatly appreciated.
 
Does it see the base in fanalab? When the wheel isn’t connected I’d read to update the base without wheels first. Then once the firmware’s been flashed add and update them. Probably try removing the wheel, boot it up on a pc, then if its seen, reflash the firmware.
 
Does it see the base in fanalab? When the wheel isn’t connected I’d read to update the base without wheels first. Then once the firmware’s been flashed add and update them. Probably try removing the wheel, boot it up on a pc, then if its seen, reflash the firmware.
The base power button doesn’t even light up. There is definitely power going through it because when I put the wheel on it, the wheel boots up with the Fanatec logo and then does nothing, only the 4 corner analog sticks light up white; that’s it. PC does not recognize the base alone or with the wheel attached at all. Im guessing has to do because the power button doesn’t light up at all. In other forums, people have gone as far as saying the base is either bricked by the firmware because the analog sticks lights up or its stuck in some sort of “update” mode that doesn’t want to come out of. With Fanatec now these days; who knows what the hell is wrong with it.
 
Yeah. Its out of my depth, but id guess updste loop. There is a way to boot the base into firmware mode but its something like a 10second button press. Hopefully someone can gove you some better dorection soon. I know some have had issues and posted them, not sure whether this thread or the dd+ one but worth a scan. Good luck!
 
I got my Gran Turismo DD+ Extreme delivered yesterday, 03/01/24; from FedEx. Excited, happily mounted it, it turned on, wheel went round and round upon booting. Put it into my PS5, doesn’t seem to be recognized so I figure it might need that first firmware update. So I go connect it to my PC to update the firmware. I follow the instructions exactly. When I go look, the power button is no longer lit up or red; the wheel however, all 4 analogs are lit up white. Pressing buttons on the wheel does nothing; holding the power button for 3 seconds and 10 seconds does nothing. The wheel and base both are completely unresponsive. Not once was I ever able to properly use it or play a game with it. As for the situation on my hand, some forums say its defective out the box, some say the firmware crashed and bricked it. Either way, as anyone spending that amount of money can imagine, a new item out the box should not be having these issues. A big part of me wants to send it back and get my money back which in fact I have already started the refund process because I am so disappointed in Fanatec selling me something that doesn’t work out the box. I hope they read this and give me a solution, otherwise its going back. Has anyone here experienced this? Your help greatly appreciated.
Have you registered on the Fanatec Forum?, plenty of help and information available on there, you may find a solution.

 
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Yeah. Its out of my depth, but id guess updste loop. There is a way to boot the base into firmware mode but its something like a 10second button press. Hopefully someone can gove you some better dorection soon. I know some have had issues and posted them, not sure whether this thread or the dd+ one but worth a scan. Good luck!
Thank you. I appreciate the feedback.
 
I got my Gran Turismo DD+ Extreme delivered yesterday, 03/01/24; from FedEx. Excited, happily mounted it, it turned on, wheel went round and round upon booting. Put it into my PS5, doesn’t seem to be recognized so I figure it might need that first firmware update. So I go connect it to my PC to update the firmware. I follow the instructions exactly. When I go look, the power button is no longer lit up or red; the wheel however, all 4 analogs are lit up white. Pressing buttons on the wheel does nothing; holding the power button for 3 seconds and 10 seconds does nothing. The wheel and base both are completely unresponsive. Not once was I ever able to properly use it or play a game with it. As for the situation on my hand, some forums say its defective out the box, some say the firmware crashed and bricked it. Either way, as anyone spending that amount of money can imagine, a new item out the box should not be having these issues. A big part of me wants to send it back and get my money back which in fact I have already started the refund process because I am so disappointed in Fanatec selling me something that doesn’t work out the box. I hope they read this and give me a solution, otherwise its going back. Has anyone here experienced this? Your help greatly appreciated.
My wheel or base or QR was bricked after 456 driver and FW updates but the FW on the QR didn't ever succeed in installing. I fixed it by eventually getting the QR FW to update after many tries which I posted about earlier in thread. But my wheelbase always powered on with light lit up and recognized by PC so it's probably a different error that you're dealing with.

But it probably is failed FW update related. If you can get it to be recognized by PC, I'd downgrade drivers to 455, and downgrade base FW and it'll probably work. On the forum they said the newest base firmware is what's causing the issues, flooding the QR with erroneous information and overloading it basically. And the 456 base FW version made it a lot worse. I'm sure they'll fix it but I sucks that it'll take 2 weeks, but that's what they said. You may need to RMA your base if it can't be regognized by PC though, not sure how you can even try to fix it in that case. I'd keep trying things though, I did the same thing over and over and it eventually worked. 🤷‍♂️ Try different ports, maybe even a different PC, etc.. Keep trying to get it into FW update mode, etc.
 
BWX
My wheel or base or QR was bricked after 456 driver and FW updates but the FW on the QR didn't ever succeed in installing. I fixed it by eventually getting the QR FW to update after many tries which I posted about earlier in thread. But my wheelbase always powered on with light lit up and recognized by PC so it's probably a different error that you're dealing with.

But it probably is failed FW update related. If you can get it to be recognized by PC, I'd downgrade drivers to 455, and downgrade base FW and it'll probably work. On the forum they said the newest base firmware is what's causing the issues, flooding the QR with erroneous information and overloading it basically. And the 456 base FW version made it a lot worse. I'm sure they'll fix it but I sucks that it'll take 2 weeks, but that's what they said. You may need to RMA your base if it can't be regognized by PC though, not sure how you can even try to fix it in that case. I'd keep trying things though, I did the same thing over and over and it eventually worked. 🤷‍♂️ Try different ports, maybe even a different PC, etc.. Keep trying to get it into FW update mode, etc.
Yea, I wish I could do that, but the power button doesn’t even light up for the PC to even see it. Yet somehow there is power running through it because when I attach the wheel; the 4 corner analog sticks light up. So at the moment, I really can’t tell if the base is bricked or if its just a firmware causing the base to crash and not even power up or if it is stuck in some sort of “update” loop mode that I can’t get it out of. This is straight out the box, first firmware update with out even playing 1 game with it. SMH. Thank you for the feedback.
 
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Yea, I wish I could do that, but the power button doesn’t even light up for the PC to even see it. Yet somehow there is power running through it because when I attach the wheel; the 4 corner analog sticks light up. So at the moment, I really can’t tell if the base is bricked or if its just a firmware causing the base to crash and not even power up or if it is stuck in some sort of “update” loop mode that I can’t get it out of. This is straight out the box, first firmware update with out even playing 1 game with it. SMH. Thank you for the feedback.
Yeah that sucks. And I'm sure it wasn't your fault, Fanatec really need to work on their FW updater. It crashes/ fails and bugs out way too much. There may be some magical combination of steps you could take to get it working or maybe there isn't. I'd probably open a support ticket, maybe there is something Fanatec guys can have you try before you have to send it back.
 
BWX
Yeah that sucks. And I'm sure it wasn't your fault, Fanatec really need to work on their FW updater. It crashes/ fails and bugs out way too much. There may be some magical combination of steps you could take to get it working or maybe there isn't. I'd probably open a support ticket, maybe there is something Fanatec guys can have you try before you have to send it back.
I’m really pissed with Fanatec at this point…. While waiting for so long on other equipment to arrive, that in itself taking so long, and then getting the GT DD+ Extreme out the box not working and spending so much money on it, I requested a refund on it. The only reason why I am staying with Fanatec is because I already have money invested into their ecosystem and have the PS4/PS5 DD1 F1 base. I only bought the GT DD+Extreme to sell off the PS4/PS5 DD1 F1 base-and I’m glad I didn’t.
 
LOL yeah I'm keeping my GT DD Pro 8nm as a spare DD. I'm older and more patient these days but yeah I'd still be pissed off if my new expensive wheel stayed bricked through no fault of my own! It's the overall compatibility and ecosystem that keeps me with Fanatec, their support is terrible and their software is buggy. When everything is working, the stuff is mostly great though. Bang for the buck is good.
 
For what it's worth, I've had good experiences with Fanatec's support. Figured I'd throw that out there since all I ever read is negativity, and I'm not saying it isn't warranted, just that it isn't every experience and I'm sure some people are reading this thread getting too scared to ever step into the Fanatec universe. My shifter had an issue with correctly/quickly registering gears in H pattern mode and they returned the repair incredibly fast, like a one week from shipping it to them and having it back in my hands. A few months later the switch that selects between H pattern and sequential started to migrate out of position when I was doing hard H pattern shifting and then they just sent me a brand new unit.
 
BWX
LOL yeah I'm keeping my GT DD Pro 8nm as a spare DD. I'm older and more patient these days but yeah I'd still be pissed off if my new expensive wheel stayed bricked through no fault of my own! It's the overall compatibility and ecosystem that keeps me with Fanatec, their support is terrible and their software is buggy. When everything is working, the stuff is mostly great though. Bang for the buck is good.
I’m stuck with Fanatec unfortunately because I’m more of a console PS5 player then PC-I never got the hang of keyboard & mouse playing so I stuck with consoles. Since I’m a console player, only choices available is either Logitech, Thrustmaster or Fanatec, with Fanatec having the best Ecosystem out of all 3 companies, is the real reason I chose Fanatec. But it would seem its a 50/50 hit or miss now a days with them unfortunately.
 
For what it's worth, I've had good experiences with Fanatec's support. Figured I'd throw that out there since all I ever read is negativity, and I'm not saying it isn't warranted, just that it isn't every experience and I'm sure some people are reading this thread getting too scared to ever step into the Fanatec universe. My shifter had an issue with correctly/quickly registering gears in H pattern mode and they returned the repair incredibly fast, like a one week from shipping it to them and having it back in my hands. A few months later the switch that selects between H pattern and sequential started to migrate out of position when I was doing hard H pattern shifting and then they just sent me a brand new unit.


TBH it’s the smattering of positive feedback that gave me hope to enjoy the products once I get to enter the universe. I paid the entry fee but still waiting to experience it.
I really hope it is close to plug and play to get good results even if it means leveraging the in-depth trial and error for settings found in these posts. Thanks for all of the hard work and sharing!!

The depth to understand what the settings do or change in the driving experience is tough to fathom when comparing to my current t300rs which has a couple of settings and that’s it

In the long run it should be worth it but I should probably quit reading this thread until I can experience what y’all are talking about 😁

Soon I hope. 🤞
 
To be fair I've had positive support experiences with Fanatec in the past. Getting a new load cell for pedals several years ago, getting tech support for things to try when something goes wrong, etc.. But they seem overwhelmed lately and I don't like how their entire support system works overall, it's slow and clunky. It's not all horror stories, but I've had better luck overall with Logitech, random Amazon sellers from China, or Ali Express (different products). I think they're working on improving everything though so there's hope for the future anyways. Plus who knows what kind of crazy intrusive government regulations they're dealing with, so I have to always try to cut them some slack.
 
TBH it’s the smattering of positive feedback that gave me hope to enjoy the products once I get to enter the universe. I paid the entry fee but still waiting to experience it.
I really hope it is close to plug and play to get good results even if it means leveraging the in-depth trial and error for settings found in these posts. Thanks for all of the hard work and sharing!!

The depth to understand what the settings do or change in the driving experience is tough to fathom when comparing to my current t300rs which has a couple of settings and that’s it

In the long run it should be worth it but I should probably quit reading this thread until I can experience what y’all are talking about 😁

Soon I hope. 🤞
I can’t comment on my Gran Turismo DD+ experience as I was never able to play it out the box new; due to it having some sort of defect; however, I can tell you from using the PS5 Podium DD1 F1; for me, coming from a Thrustmaster T500RS (yea old school-Lol)…. I can tell you Fanatec is night & day compared to Thrustmaster. Once you have your equipment set up to your likings, you might want more. I started with the wheel & pedals, then wanted more wheels, inverted pedals, shifter and hand brake. Financially yea it can become an expensive “toy” but like anything else in life, you get what you want when you can afford to do so. Thank you for the feedback.

BWX
To be fair I've had positive support experiences with Fanatec in the past. Getting a new load cell for pedals several years ago, getting tech support for things to try when something goes wrong, etc.. But they seem overwhelmed lately and I don't like how their entire support system works overall, it's slow and clunky. It's not all horror stories, but I've had better luck overall with Logitech, random Amazon sellers from China, or Ali Express (different products). I think they're working on improving everything though so there's hope for the future anyways. Plus who knows what kind of crazy intrusive government regulations they're dealing with, so I have to always try to cut them some slack.
Yea, I know they going through alot of changes company wise. I get it. Some of my other orders took long for me to receive, surprisingly though, the GT DD+ Extreme took about 2 1/2 weeks for me to get. I will work with them, however, I dont want them trying to give me tech support and then the window to return it passes because they too sad to say take long to respond. I dont want to be stuck with a bricked unit. I feel like returning it for refund might be my best course of action and just repurchasing it again once I get my refund.
 
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BWX
LOL yeah I'm keeping my GT DD Pro 8nm as a spare DD. I'm older and more patient these days but yeah I'd still be pissed off if my new expensive wheel stayed bricked through no fault of my own! It's the overall compatibility and ecosystem that keeps me with Fanatec, their support is terrible and their software is buggy. When everything is working, the stuff is mostly great though. Bang for the buck is good.
I'm still unsure whether I should sell my DD Pro or not, but I'll probably do it.
So far I haven't really had any issues with the hardware, only the software seems to be not ready for the product launch.
I updated the FW to 455 immediately when I got it, that had the ghost inputs of the clutch pedals causing TC to rise when set to AA (Axis). I then updated to 456, but that one is very flawed and caused constant crashes. A downgrade to 455 fixed it again for me.

I seriously don't want to know in what state the FW would have been if they had managed to hold the original release/shipping dates.

Regarding GT7 support: I think it's obvious that PD is working on it but it's not ready yet. As mentioned from others the FFB was changed, plus the rev counter is now colored which it wasn't before the update
 
Regarding GT7 support: I think it's obvious that PD is working on it but it's not ready yet. As mentioned from others the FFB was changed, plus the rev counter is now colored which it wasn't before the update
I find it funny that PD included themselves in the launch announcement when they didn’t have software ready for it yet, and then they put out a software update a few weeks later that included some behind the scenes support but still no official support via button mapping or anything, let alone FullForce (which I wasn’t expecting for a while).

Two companies notorious for bad communication and long delays for basic fixes… can only really laugh at it because at least the product still more or less does what it’s supposed to.

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Just don't let yourself down.
It is what it is.
Like I explained it in my previous post.

To me it's just Numbers and Sliders that I have to move to get my Wheel setup and ready to go.

The base is still outputting 15NM of constant Torque, it's just the way how it is delivered that has been changed.

It's the torque Curve that has been adjusted.
And let me tell you that you definitely don't have to worry about clipping with your specific Wheelbase Settings.

You'll notice Clipping in GT7 when the FFB starts to buzz.

So don't worry about clipping.
Just drive and enjoy the gorgeous FFB which the DD+ has on offer. 😄
Thank you. Really appreciate your insights into tuning the wheel. Particularly the relationship between in game sensi and the int setting. Its been quite the eye opener after struggling to understand wheel settings through the fall. Also! Putting my mind to rest re clipping. Spend more time than i should worrying about that.

Speaking of which. I was roughing in my 265mm yoke(esports f1 v2), and my initial guess was to double the int value from the 300mm. It was ok, but wheel directionality was easier to discern at int 10. During a break i checked the fanatec boards and read someone state that the in game sensi’s range had been modified as well. Have you noticed anything?

I gave it a shot and bumped sensi by 1 for new and very simple settings of

300mm wheel
In game 6/8
Ndp 5
Int 5
Everything else zero. All wheel force 100

Question re ndp. Is this the only other tool than int we have when it comes to moderation of the ffb signals? Its been very interesting with int as vague vibrations morphed into tire directionality and grip and i wondered if ndp performed a similar role and wondered about its interactions.

Also! General heads up. After the ninja tuning i turned on full force just to see if any partial implementations occurred. As it turns out something did happen. Entering/exiting the pits bugs out the ffb weakening it, affecting the range, almost confusing it with a controller, if im guessing. Fortunately a quick pause of the game fixes it. But ya. Continue ignoring Full Force lol!

Ps: @Yard_Sale check out @PirovacBoy ‘s posts a few pages back for insight into the int setting. My wheel makes more sense now than it ever has.
 
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