Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Extreme Wheel

[PirovacBoy]

I’m not feeling a knocking rattling type effect as you are describing and find the current setup in GT7 quite engaging. Hopefully not some internal defect.

Finding the level of FF to use is focus of my current testing

PS4 mode is much stronger, maybe as much as twice but still trying to determine what other differences are there between the two as Fanatec docs provide NO information other than match the connected system

I did test other games w the newest FW - PMR is OK, the ITM functionality w PBME not fixed but the data comes thru. Agree FH5 is different and a bit flat so needs some work w settings. As its known that FH series is still on older Fanatec SDK maybe that’s one reason why the older driver feels better to you - don’t know if they will ever support the newer version tho.

I'm more or less convinced that it has to be either a Settings/Signal Issue or a Too Sensitive Hands on my end Issue . Because it only appears in GT7 when Full Force is turned on.
I ran the Full force Test within the Fanatec App and no Issue there.
And to be more clear, it's not like a harsh Rattle or a strong thumping.
It feels almost exactly as playing GT7 with with Very low INT Value and very low FFB in game Torque Settings.
Give the following Method a try if you like to, as it's the easiest Way to comprehend what I mean
With Full Force set to 100 On the Wheelbase and in game 100.
Jump into a GT3 Car of your choice.
Enter the track, yet don't leave the Pits.
The idle Engine RPM can be felt as a buzzy and smooth Vibration but also this strange Noise I described.
It's just an Immersion braking undefined and not precisely comprehensible Noise within the Full Force Signal.
The Wheel while driving feels absolutely smooth and very very detailed.
No grainy or choppy Signal.
Both FFB Layers, the Original GT7 Signal as well as the newly added Full Force Signal .
The FFB is strong and on point.
Tbh, GT7 never ever felt that good.
Absolutely gorgeous...
If it just wasn't for this Noise.

It would be interesting to know which part on the software side is responsible for this noisy effect.
Wheelbase or WQR...

@FMW
@super_gt
Any ideas ?

One last thing which I haven't tried would be keeping the latest Wheelbase FW 2.7.1.3 and only downgrade the WQR one Version, so back to 1.1.0.4...

 

[FMW]

I'm not sure what he's feeling either. I don't have any issue on how the FFB feels with regards to GT7. With the firmware found in 455 I noticed it was not great, as it was old. The FW in 474 feels better to me. It could be that his base settings may need adjusting. I used to use his recommended settings and they don't work for me anymore. Especially when it comes to the INT setting. I think @PirovacBoy had it set to 11. I put that setting to 2. 11 introduced input lag, which I didn't notice before until I did some research on what INT actually does. 2 feels more responsive to me in both GT7 and LMU.

I'm more or less convinced that it has to be either a Settings/Signal Issue or a Too Sensitive Hands on my end Issue . Because it only appears in GT7 when Full Force is turned on.
I ran the Full force Test within the Fanatec App and no Issue there.
And to be more clear, it's not like a harsh Rattle or a strong thumping.
It feels almost exactly as playing GT7 with with Very low INT Value and very low FFB in game Torque Settings.
Give the following Method a try if you like to, as it's the easiest Way to comprehend what I mean
With Full Force set to 100 On the Wheelbase and in game 100.
Jump into a GT3 Car of your choice.
Enter the track, yet don't leave the Pits.
The idle Engine RPM can be felt as a buzzy and smooth Vibration but also this strange Noise I described.
It's just an Immersion braking undefined and not precisely comprehensible Noise within the Full Force Signal.
The Wheel while driving feels absolutely smooth and very very detailed.
No grainy or choppy Signal.
Both FFB Layers, the Original GT7 Signal as well as the newly added Full Force Signal .
The FFB is strong and on point.
Tbh, GT7 never ever felt that good.
Absolutely gorgeous...
If it just wasn't for this Noise.

It would be interesting to know which part on the software side is responsible for this noisy effect.
Wheelbase or WQR...

@FMW
@super_gt
Any ideas ?

One last thing which I haven't tried would be keeping the latest Wheelbase FW 2.7.1.3 and only downgrade the WQR one Version, so back to 1.1.0.4...

When you say "noise", do you actually mean an audible sound coming from the base?

 

[RS60NR]

It would be interesting to know which part on the software side is responsible for this noisy effect.
Wheelbase or WQR..

WQR is handling data transfer between wheel and base as best as I can find described, so that would seem to be display and button behavior and timings I would think and not the FF vibrations being applied to the wheel base case

 

[Kriptical]

I'm more or less convinced that it has to be either a Settings/Signal Issue or a Too Sensitive Hands on my end Issue . Because it only appears in GT7 when Full Force is turned on.
I ran the Full force Test within the Fanatec App and no Issue there.
And to be more clear, it's not like a harsh Rattle or a strong thumping.
It feels almost exactly as playing GT7 with with Very low INT Value and very low FFB in game Torque Settings.
Give the following Method a try if you like to, as it's the easiest Way to comprehend what I mean
With Full Force set to 100 On the Wheelbase and in game 100.
Jump into a GT3 Car of your choice.
Enter the track, yet don't leave the Pits.
The idle Engine RPM can be felt as a buzzy and smooth Vibration but also this strange Noise I described.
It's just an Immersion braking undefined and not precisely comprehensible Noise within the Full Force Signal.
The Wheel while driving feels absolutely smooth and very very detailed.
No grainy or choppy Signal.
Both FFB Layers, the Original GT7 Signal as well as the newly added Full Force Signal .
The FFB is strong and on point.
Tbh, GT7 never ever felt that good.
Absolutely gorgeous...
If it just wasn't for this Noise.

It would be interesting to know which part on the software side is responsible for this noisy effect.
Wheelbase or WQR...

@FMW
@super_gt
Any ideas ?

One last thing which I haven't tried would be keeping the latest Wheelbase FW 2.7.1.3 and only downgrade the WQR one Version, so back to 1.1.0.4...

I’m sorry bud. Life is crazy and I’ll likely not get a chance to play today. Basically, I went from 455(not 454, I was wrong about that but it had been about a year since I’d fired up a windows machine and looked so…oops!) to the beta link @super_gt provided and went for it with my most simple wheel. The CSL univ hub V2 and just did the base and that wheel and ran with it. I do feel the clunk you mentioned, but its more on the subtle side and given the other improvements, I can ignore it pretty easily.

Have you tried a lower Int setting? I wanted to try that today but its not going to work out. Definitely tomorrow.

-Will say that I liked the curb feeling better on 455. They’re a bit muted now. Hopefully fanatec cranks that up a little in subsequent driver releases.

 

[PirovacBoy]

@FMW with Noise i mean unnecessary Sounds or non useful FFB Effecs.
And in this very specific example, it's the Sound coming from the Wheelbase itself.
A rhytmic clunk.
Turn off the game Sound.
As soon as it is silent around You do the following.
100FF wheelbase and In game.
Park your car in the pits or on track.
Gently lay your hands on your Wheelbase.
You will feel it as well as hear it.
A Misfit.
Again pay attention, it ONLY appears in GT7 with Full Force AND in game Vibration turned on.
Because it is not to be felt using the FF Testloop in the latest Fanatec App Driver 1.2.0.5.
In that case the FF Signals feel more varied more refined, think of higher Bitrate for Audio files, less compression,
Again, in GT7 the FF Signal especially the Seperated and split signal for each individual haptical layer, so tires, engine, road surface.
They all are felt quite distinguishable between each other.
Yet here ,the clunk is immediately noticable and doesnt fit nowhere at all into the the FF Signal... Or let me put it this way... It can't be fitted or related to any other car part intended to be simulated or reproduced FF wise.
And no it has nithing to do with the INT setting.
No matter Off or 20
The intensity of the clunk stays the same
So it is neither a Hardware issue because again in the Fanatec Apo no Issues at all, nor is it related to ANY in game Settings.
So it most probably is a Software FF Signal decoding Issue.
I haven't tested if that Clunk is related to the exhaust cracks n pops maybe.
I'll test it later using different Exhaust Types and will also give the anti lag system a run too.

It is to be felt the least with a specific combo i'll come up with later.
With 1205 onlyt The FFB Gain / Strenghth is 100% reduced compared to Wheelbase FW 2.6.1.5 included in driver 474 AND in Combination with WQR FW 1.2.1.1 is producing the currently best available and least noisy and most balanced FF // FFB combo.
Because here The Legacy FFB Strength feels strong and precise...Same Like before FF was introduced to GT7.
Raw and unfiltered Effects.
And all of this combined with the currently most useful WQR FW which makes in exactly this specific combo the Clunk less pronounced than any other Combo i tried and provides an even stronger and more refined FF Signal.
all of my Observatios in Ps5 // PS4 ( which provided no FF Signal at all) // PS5 Compatibility Mode.
In Compatibility mode the FF felt subjectively and on first glimpse stronger, yet it isn't if digging deeper down the rabbit hole.
The perceived yet falsely assumed Stronger FF output is just a lesser sepetated Legacy FFB Signal interfering into the new FF Layer, hence not being as distinguishable and therefore the subjectively assumed more impactful Mode.

On another Note my previous DD+ Wheelbase Settings you also mentioned before are the basis for all of this. Same goes for my BMW Wheel which you also used, I think.
As I have been using them approved and trusted Settings ever since then, and build them in line with FW455... Which I never attempted to update, same goes for the WQR FW 1.0.0.3.

Never change a running System, or why fix something which isn't broken.
So curious to hear from you what it was that made you jump of the winning horse.
Because even now I'm still using them and they still provide the exact same feeling.

Hence I can put my finger exactly to every single FFB Effect and may it be the most subtle of them all.
So I guess I must have missed something that you actually did notice,but i just can't point out what exactly it might have been / it is. ?!
Hope you can share some light.

Always good to get double checked by others occasionally and always happy to exchange opinions which then makes the game hopefully a more enjoyable driving experience.

 

[alectron010]

Hi
I have a clunk as well in my recently updated dd+.
But, it's not rhythmic... Id describe it as erratic and drivig situation dependent.
Also, it reminds me (although now in a lot shorter intervals/bursts) of the metallic scraping sound & feel ("down" the wheel shaft) the base produced in its first half year ish in gt7 with the gt7 versions & Fanatic firmware combos around that time (often when the front wheels lost traction iirc) , which disappeared after a few months in later gt7 releases / fanatec firmware releases, and which I therefore wouldn't attribute to full force...

But who knows, with the erratic & intransparent software releases and/or feature/behaviour updates when it comes to PD/gt7 as well as Fanatic, I'm curious how this develops and changes over time and multiple releases again.
Hopefully it can only better from here...

 

[RS60NR]

@FMW with Noise i mean unnecessary Sounds or non useful FFB Effecs.
And in this very specific example, it's the Sound coming from the Wheelbase itself.
A rhytmic clunk.
Turn off the game Sound.
As soon as it is silent around You do the following.
100FF wheelbase and In game.
Park your car in the pits or on track.
Gently lay your hands on your Wheelbase.
You will feel it as well as hear it.
A Misfit.
Again pay attention, it ONLY appears in GT7 with Full Force AND in game Vibration turned on.
Because it is not to be felt using the FF Testloop in the latest Fanatec App Driver 1.2.0.5.
In that case the FF Signals feel more varied more refined, think of higher Bitrate for Audio files, less compression,
Again, in GT7 the FF Signal especially the Seperated and split signal for each individual haptical layer, so tires, engine, road surface.
They all are felt quite distinguishable between each other.
Yet here ,the clunk is immediately noticable and doesnt fit nowhere at all into the the FF Signal... Or let me put it this way... It can't be fitted or related to any other car part intended to be simulated or reproduced FF wise.
And no it has nithing to do with the INT setting.
No matter Off or 20
The intensity of the clunk stays the same
So it is neither a Hardware issue because again in the Fanatec Apo no Issues at all, nor is it related to ANY in game Settings.
So it most probably is a Software FF Signal decoding Issue.
I haven't tested if that Clunk is related to the exhaust cracks n pops maybe.
I'll test it later using different Exhaust Types and will also give the anti lag system a run too.

It is to be felt the least with a specific combo i'll come up with later.
With 1205 onlyt The FFB Gain / Strenghth is 100% reduced compared to Wheelbase FW 2.6.1.5 included in driver 474 AND in Combination with WQR FW 1.2.1.1 is producing the currently best available and least noisy and most balanced FF // FFB combo.
Because here The Legacy FFB Strength feels strong and precise...Same Like before FF was introduced to GT7.
Raw and unfiltered Effects.
And all of this combined with the currently most useful WQR FW which makes in exactly this specific combo the Clunk less pronounced than any other Combo i tried and provides an even stronger and more refined FF Signal.
all of my Observatios in Ps5 // PS4 ( which provided no FF Signal at all) // PS5 Compatibility Mode.
In Compatibility mode the FF felt subjectively and on first glimpse stronger, yet it isn't if digging deeper down the rabbit hole.
The perceived yet falsely assumed Stronger FF output is just a lesser sepetated Legacy FFB Signal interfering into the new FF Layer, hence not being as distinguishable and therefore the subjectively assumed more impactful Mode.

On another Note my previous DD+ Wheelbase Settings you also mentioned before are the basis for all of this. Same goes for my BMW Wheel which you also used, I think.
As I have been using them approved and trusted Settings ever since then, and build them in line with FW455... Which I never attempted to update, same goes for the WQR FW 1.0.0.3.

Never change a running System, or why fix something which isn't broken.
So curious to hear from you what it was that made you jump of the winning horse.
Because even now I'm still using them and they still provide the exact same feeling.

Hence I can put my finger exactly to every single FFB Effect and may it be the most subtle of them all.
So I guess I must have missed something that you actually did notice,but i just can't point out what exactly it might have been / it is. ?!
Hope you can share some light.

Always good to get double checked by others occasionally and always happy to exchange opinions which then makes the game hopefully a more enjoyable driving experience.

I spent some time again testing for this w DD+ Base 2.7.1.3 and WQR 1.2.1.1 from the latest 1.2 app

Viper GT3 at High speed ring using a private lobby RH tires stock set up

Tested in both PS4 (light blue) and PS5 (dark blue) modes audio off w FF set to 100 on wheel and in game

I could not feel this clunk you mention either sitting in the pit or stopped on track

I only feel and hear a slightly varying whine of low to maybe 1khz or so that oscillates for about 8.25 secs and then dips briefly then repeats - i guess this is idle being modeled and may vary depending on car

So I can only speculate - either some difference in base quality or something else on your rig resonating or ??
But if its in the signal sent from GT7 I’m not feeling it even w FF in PS4 mode being stronger. Using Base FW from 474 will be different as there were changes made - have not tested w that yet

On track I ran both FF on and Off for both PS4 and PS5 modes - FFB seems pretty much the same if not identical - maybe there are differences but not big enough to notice w/o more extensive testing

However FF is about 2x stronger in PS4 mode - as FFB seems same/similar I can only guess that Fanatec had an oops in the data somewhere as they sometimes do. I set 50 on wheel and it feels similar to 100 on PS5 mode

In fact only difference between 2 modes I’ve found so far is that a PS4 will not recognize the base in PS5 mode, while the PS5 doesn’t care

W FF on I could feel added effects: understeer and oversteer, rev limiter, gear shift, some ABS under very hard braking, curb peaking, road and off road texture, and wall impacts. But no lock up w ABS off

BTW turning ABS off while in car from pause does NOT turn it off - you must exit the car and come back

Personally leaning towards saying PS5 mode is not strong enough. A mixer function to set relative strenghts of different effects ala SIm Hub would really help

 

[hrtrob]

I too cannot feel or hear any clunks on mine. I’m on 2.7.1.3 base and 1.2.1.1 WQR. With FF and controller vibration set to 100 I don’t feel any vibration effects at idle, but I do feel it when I rev the engine while stopped and when going over the curbs. Should I be feeling something when idling and stopped at the track?

 

[RS60NR]

In PS5 mode, likely depending on car may not feel much or anything at idle. If you turn off phones or speakers and turn up to 150 controller vib then you hear it and feel it slightly. In PS4 mode on the base should definitely both feel and hear it

 

[TSXChef]

I am now on Beta v1.2.0.5 (2.7.1.3 DD+, 1.2.1.1 WQR). I usually don't deal with Beta FW, but I took the plunge in resolving GT7 freeze issue (fingers crossed). I gained some courage after reading posts from RS60NR and FMW, thanks guys.

I posted below in Fanatec forum for feedback to dev. Also posting it here in case it helps anyone.
----------------------------------------
Sharing my experience in FW update with v1.2.0.5. My setup = Formula V2.5, DD+. Driver 468. My primary goal in updating beta v1.2.0.5 is to help resolve GT7 freeze which is very annoying.

• Failed attempt, was NOT able to update FW = Windows 11 Home 64bit laptop. USB-C to USB-C connection. App1.2 installed OK, launched OK. Failed two different ways
  
  1. WARNING: Cannot flash firmware!, V1: Incompatible with the current target! --> nothing worked, only exit the updater
  2. After DD+ power reboot, retried FW update. This time caught in a error loop: Waiting for bootloader reconnection.... --> DD+ Power button stayed solid and non-responsive, had to unplug the base to re-power on. Bit scary as if it was bricked, but luckily it powered on normal after re-plugging base power cable.
     
     
     
     
     
     
• Successful, was able to update FW = another PC, Windows 10 Pro 64bit. USB-A to USB-C
  
  1. Initially Fanatec App1.2 repeatedly closed, would not stay open. Fix = as suggested by @raptormachine , apply Visual C++ Redistributable (Latest supported v14 (for Visual Studio 2017–2026).
  2. After Visual C++ update, was able to update the FW for both the Base and QR

I had limited run so far on Beta v1.2.0.5, but so far no issues, promising. FF is bit more pronounced with v1.2.0.5, especially when going over curbs.

 

[PirovacBoy]

So a question to those experts in flashing updating Fanatec Gear.
Is there a specific way or order on how to update or downgrade the Hardware.
I'm asking because something fishy going on over here on my end.

No need to go into detail as i don't intend to bother you .

So just an order like Wheelbase first or WQR.
And is it safe to jump from the current Base Motor FW to the old Driver 455 with FW 2.0.1.4 and same would go for the WQR downgrading to 1.0.0.3.
If so which one first, Base or WQR.

 

[Kriptical]

Anyone feel anything different after the patch?

 

[The Crock]

I'm on a Podium DD1 and nothing seems to have changed FFB wise. You guys on the DD Extreme probably won't feel much at all either.

 

[M Stark]

Anyone feel anything different after the patch?

Nope. I was hoping for slightly stronger FF but nothing.

 

[RS60NR]

So just an order like Wheelbase first or WQR.
And is it safe to jump from the current Base Motor FW to the old Driver 455 with FW 2.0.1.4 and same would go for the WQR downgrading to 1.0.0.3.
If so which one first, Base or WQR.

Have gone backwards before when trying to resolve a problem, can’t recall what my biggest jump, but several versions

Personally I’ve always done motor first and then WQR if doing it manually, since that’s how the auto mode does it

Have done only one or the other on occaison

But have not seen any specific advice or experience on whether order matters

 

[PirovacBoy]

Have gone backwards before when trying to resolve a problem, can’t recall what my biggest jump, but several versions

Personally I’ve always done motor first and then WQR if doing it manually, since that’s how the auto mode does it

Have done only one or the other on occaison

But have not seen any specific advice or experience on whether order matters

Awesome thats exactly what i was hoping to hear.
Thank you Sir🤝

 

[scooterlord]

Can someone share their settings on DD+ after the latest update?

 

[FMW]

Can someone share their settings on DD+ after the latest update?

SEN Auto
FFB 100
FUL 100 (I sent the In Game Controller vibration to 105)
NDP 28
NFR 5
NIN off
INT 2 (I used to use 11, but noticed it was causing input lag. Lower values provide a better feel especially on initial turn in. 11 feels slightly delayed and muted)
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR OFF or 100 as GT7 does not use these settings
DPR OFF or 100 as GT7 does not use these settings

In game:

Torque 3-4 (Depends on what car I drive)

Sensitivity 1-7 based on current SPEC II update (It really depends on the car I’m driving, but 7 is the one I most currently use)

Your milage may vary. What racing game hobbyists tend to overlook is how steering wheel bases are mounted. How and what you mount them on plays a huge part on the experience and the settings. My current settings work well for me as my gear is mounted on a aluminum extrusion rig that does not move. These settings may feel completely awful if your base is mounted on coffee table or lightweight desk.

Never change a running System, or why fix something which isn't broken.
So curious to hear from you what it was that made you jump of the winning horse.
Because even now I'm still using them and they still provide the exact same feeling.

I changed my settings, especially INT (Interpolation) because I noticed input lag when playing with competitive friends. Playing the game by myself it felt fine. Once you start to hunt for tenths when racing with your friends you begin to search for things that may be holding you back. For me it ended up being the INT setting. After some research, it may cause some input lag, so I tested it. At value 2, the game feels just about the same, but the I prefer how much more connected I feel to the steering input. At 11 it feel fines, but I don't like the initial turn in feeling. It feels delayed compared to lower values.

In short its a personal preference thing for competitive reasons. It didn't affect my enjoyment of the FFB feedback, thank goodness.