Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

[poumpoum]

Today I plugged back my CSL Elite :
Game Settings

• FFMT : 3 - 5 (3 for road cars and 4/5 for race cars)
• FFS : doesn't matter I can't see any difference between 1 and 10...

Wheel Settings

• SEN : AUT
• FF : 100
• FOR : 100
• SPR : OFF (not used by GT)
• DPR : OFF (not used by GT)
• FEI : 100
• DRI : OFF (absolutely no artificial damper effect added)

The overall feeling was a little more detailed and this strange "just a spring effect towards middle" was not here anymore


I plugged back my DD Pro just to be sure :
Game Settings

• FFMT : 3 - 5 (3 for road cars and 4/5 for race cars)
• FFS : doesn't matter I can't see any difference between 1 and 10...

Wheel Settings

• SEN : AUT
• FFS : PEAK
• FF : 100
• FOR : 100
• SPR : OFF (not used by GT)
• DPR : OFF (not used by GT)
• FEI : 100
• INT : OFF
• NDP : OFF (no artificial damper effect added to really work with the raw signal)
• NFR : OFF (no artificial damper effect added to really work with the raw signal)
• NIN : OFF (no artificial damper effect added to really work with the raw signal)

I was not dreaming, the game was more enjoyable with my old CSL Elite ! In each corner I could feel this strange "just a spring effect towards middle".

At first I thought that it was because of not using NDP, so I added some but this strange feeling was still there... I've finally discovered that using a FFMT between 1-3 and then it was probably not far from my CSL Elite feeling. With an FFMT >= 4 the "just a spring effect towards middle" aka "software clipping" is all over the place (at least in Gr3 cars). If FFMT @3 is too light you can use a FOR @110/120 to simulate a FFMT @3.5.

Nevertheless something is really wrong with the FFB in this game. I don't have the possibility to launch GT Sport without buying it again but I'm pretty sure the FFB was better implemented. I hope PD is reading this...

 

[DomB_Fanatec]

Today I plugged back my CSL Elite :
Game Settings

• FFMT : 3 - 5 (3 for road cars and 4/5 for race cars)
• FFS : doesn't matter I can't see any difference between 1 and 10...

Wheel Settings

• SEN : AUT
• FF : 100
• FOR : 100
• SPR : OFF (not used by GT)
• DPR : OFF (not used by GT)
• FEI : 100
• DRI : OFF (absolutely no artificial damper effect added)

The overall feeling was a little more detailed and this strange "just a spring effect towards middle" was not here anymore


I plugged back my DD Pro just to be sure :
Game Settings

• FFMT : 3 - 5 (3 for road cars and 4/5 for race cars)
• FFS : doesn't matter I can't see any difference between 1 and 10...

Wheel Settings

• SEN : AUT
• FFS : PEAK
• FF : 100
• FOR : 100
• SPR : OFF (not used by GT)
• DPR : OFF (not used by GT)
• FEI : 100
• INT : OFF
• NDP : OFF (no artificial damper effect added to really work with the raw signal)
• NFR : OFF (no artificial damper effect added to really work with the raw signal)
• NIN : OFF (no artificial damper effect added to really work with the raw signal)

I was not dreaming, the game was more enjoyable with my old CSL Elite ! In each corner I could feel this strange "just a spring effect towards middle".

At first I thought that it was because of not using NDP, so I added some but this strange feeling was still there... I've finally discovered that using a FFMT between 1-3 and then it was probably not far from my CSL Elite feeling. With an FFMT >= 4 the "just a spring effect towards middle" aka "software clipping" is all over the place (at least in Gr3 cars). If FFMT @3 is too light you can use a FOR @110/120 to simulate a FFMT @3.5.

Nevertheless something is really wrong with the FFB in this game. I don't have the possibility to launch GT Sport without buying it again but I'm pretty sure the FFB was better implemented. I hope PD is reading this...

Have you tried compatibility mode? This makes the GT DD Pro appear to the game as a CSL Elite Wheel Base +, and therefore should be sent the same signal as using a 'real' CSL Elite Wheel Base +.

 

[Jules_r]

According to Fanatec this is completely normal. Try the tape fix as outlined previously. It may help.

Thanks dude, and shame on Fanatec.... normal or not, it feels horrible and cheap!

Tape fix didn't work for me - I tried all the solutions. It sounds like my click-clonk noise is coming from inside the wheelbase, but who knows. I love this wheel otherwise.

I have to say that my 'click-clonk' feels like it's coming from inside the wheelbase also, but that doesn't mean it is.

It’s almost certainly the qr1. You can RMA it but dealing with Fanatec CS may make you want to jump off a cliff.

When I replaced the QR1 Lite with the QR1 I did it because I read it was a must..... I didn't expect it to be less than perfect in any way! Poor show from Fanatec!

I've read 15 Nm, and tightened accordingly. 10 Nm should be enough though. I've got zero play there. The only slight play I got in high FFB situations with the QR Lite was fixed with electrical tape.

Cyclist's got torque wrenches at home. For the rest of you... It's expensive, and shouldn't be needed. :/

Luckily I have a Torque Wrench for doing jobs on my car, and as you say, shouldn't need it for jobs on the race rig!

If you hear noise like in this video, then it is QR1, watch the video to the end to find out how to reduce the noise.
The other option is to use the bolt provided with QR1.



I used 6mm wide sheet metal, the thickness is 0.2 mm.

Thanks for the info here...... you made a nice job of that mod! I didn't even know there was an option of fitting a screw, and it isn't mentioned in the Quick Guide, I do have it though, so I'm going to fit it and see how it is!

Thanks to everyone for their help and imput!

 

[PirovacBoy]

Hello People I just wanted to update my ForceFeedback Settings on the DDPRO which I‘d pretty much say are the best current Settings.
I have done lots and lots of Testing all different Settings Combinations both on the Wheelbase and in GT 7 in Game Settings too with all different sorts of Cars and Tracks.

The following are my preferred Settings

Tuning Menu Settings:

SEN Auto
FF 95
FFS Peak
NDP 30
NFR Off
NIN Off
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
In-Game Settings:

Controller Settings:
Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

With High Downforce Cars I suggest to lower the ForceFeedback Max Torque to 4 or maybe even to 3.

Otherwise the Settings work really well across all sorts of Cars and provide a decent and responsive Feedback.

To be honest I really like GT7 ForceFeedback implementation.
It’s not about Effects, it’s about the perfect understanding of Weight Transfer and Driving Dynamics.
Not so much about Road Effects.

Once you’ve adapted to this specific Force Feedback Type, I think you‘ll get a better understanding of what the Creators Intentions are.

 

[FMW]

Hello People I just wanted to update my ForceFeedback Settings on the DDPRO which I‘d pretty much say are the best current Settings.
I have done lots and lots of Testing all different Settings Combinations both on the Wheelbase and in GT 7 in Game Settings too with all different sorts of Cars and Tracks.

The following are my preferred Settings

Tuning Menu Settings:

SEN Auto
FF 95
FFS Peak
NDP 30
NFR Off
NIN Off
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
In-Game Settings:

Controller Settings:
Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

With High Downforce Cars I suggest to lower the ForceFeedback Max Torque to 4 or maybe even to 3.

Otherwise the Settings work really well across all sorts of Cars and provide a decent and responsive Feedback.

To be honest I really like GT7 ForceFeedback implementation.
It’s not about Effects, it’s about the perfect understanding of Weight Transfer and Driving Dynamics.
Not so much about Road Effects.

Once you’ve adapted to this specific Force Feedback Type, I think you‘ll get a better understanding of what the Creators Intentions are.

Thanks for sharing your current settings. =) I've been using your previous 1.16 settings and I've grown accustomed to them. Can't wait to try your updated findings after work!

 

[NikNakTobasco]

Hello People I just wanted to update my ForceFeedback Settings on the DDPRO which I‘d pretty much say are the best current Settings.
I have done lots and lots of Testing all different Settings Combinations both on the Wheelbase and in GT 7 in Game Settings too with all different sorts of Cars and Tracks.

The following are my preferred Settings

Tuning Menu Settings:

SEN Auto
FF 95
FFS Peak
NDP 30
NFR Off
NIN Off
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
In-Game Settings:

Controller Settings:
Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

With High Downforce Cars I suggest to lower the ForceFeedback Max Torque to 4 or maybe even to 3.

Otherwise the Settings work really well across all sorts of Cars and provide a decent and responsive Feedback.

To be honest I really like GT7 ForceFeedback implementation.
It’s not about Effects, it’s about the perfect understanding of Weight Transfer and Driving Dynamics.
Not so much about Road Effects.

Once you’ve adapted to this specific Force Feedback Type, I think you‘ll get a better understanding of what the Creators Intentions are.

Very similar to what I’ve got. Does DPR and SPR do anything? I’ve heard gt7 doesn’t use it

 

[super_gt]

Does DPR and SPR do anything?

DPR is not used at all.
SPR is used in the menus to keep the steering wheel in the center position.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Very similar to what I’ve got. Does DPR and SPR do anything? I’ve heard gt7 doesn’t use it

It’s very hard to tell or describe but it DOES have an Effect in Game.
At least the DPR does.
But how do I describe it the best?
It makes the NDP feel less sticky and more responsive I‘d say. At least that’s what it felt to me.
The effect is very subtle though.
Just yesterday I was fiddling around especially with these two Parameters back to back, same Car same Track, same Conditions.
And there definitely was something going on turning them all the way up and down while leaving the other Setting untouched.
The SPR Setting though didn’t seem to have a noticeable effect, hence I’d say 100% or 0% it doesn’t impact while racing.
DPR definitely has an impact, I found it harder to be precise and hold the line with it being turned off.
Therefore I’d suggest to leave it on.

 

[kembro]

Hello People I just wanted to update my ForceFeedback Settings on the DDPRO which I‘d pretty much say are the best current Settings.
I have done lots and lots of Testing all different Settings Combinations both on the Wheelbase and in GT 7 in Game Settings too with all different sorts of Cars and Tracks.

The following are my preferred Settings

Tuning Menu Settings:

SEN Auto
FF 95
FFS Peak
NDP 30
NFR Off
NIN Off
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
In-Game Settings:

Controller Settings:
Force Feedback Max. Torque: 5
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

With High Downforce Cars I suggest to lower the ForceFeedback Max Torque to 4 or maybe even to 3.

Otherwise the Settings work really well across all sorts of Cars and provide a decent and responsive Feedback.

To be honest I really like GT7 ForceFeedback implementation.
It’s not about Effects, it’s about the perfect understanding of Weight Transfer and Driving Dynamics.
Not so much about Road Effects.

Once you’ve adapted to this specific Force Feedback Type, I think you‘ll get a better understanding of what the Creators Intentions are.

Cheers for the settings.
Very similar to where I've settled on.
5:1 in game made a massive difference, 10:1 was a terrible heavy mess.
I'm still enjoying the game, even if I'd prefer more tyre slip/understeer feel and less tyre scrub jitters.
Just need my shoulder to heal now, to make driving anything enjoyable, after 15 mins. Especially wanting it healed to pick up my Skoda VRS next week.

 

[PirovacBoy]

Cheers for the settings.
Very similar to where I've settled on.
5:1 in game made a massive difference, 10:1 was a terrible heavy mess.
I'm still enjoying the game, even if I'd prefer more tyre slip/understeer feel and less tyre scrub jitters.
Just need my shoulder to heal now, to make driving anything enjoyable, after 15 mins. Especially wanting it healed to pick up my Skoda VRS next week.

Hey Man, I’m always trying to make the Game better and more enjoyable for me and for everyone, hence I post and update my Settings.
You say you prefer more tire slip and less Understeer Judder.
Maybe I can help you.
Try the following.
Assuming you are running the Settings I have posted, just lower the FEI in 10% steps until the Judder becomes less and less noticeable.
Between 70-80% I found was the perfect Spot for me.
As a side Effect this will also make the Tires feel more pronounced especially when braking hard into Corners and cornering at the tire Grip Limit.
It will let you push the Cars harder with more confidence and feel the Slip, because with FEI on 100% it was only felt as a heavy Judder and concealed this Slip Effect.
The more you lower the FEI the more you will get a different feel for the Tires.
Actually with the 1.16 Update it seems that PD has lowered the Understeer Judder quite a bit.
So I keep the FEI at 100%.
I have a good feel for the tires anyway so for me it’s not necessary.
With 1.13 I had the FEI at 80%.
1.15 I was hovering between 70-100% depending on the Car/Drivetrain and of course how smooth I applied the brakes and how much I was pushing the Car.

I hope I could help you.
And all the best to your Shoulder, I have several Metal Implants scatterd throughout my Body.
I know exactly what you’re talking about 😁

 

[RS60NR]

I had similar settings for my DD PRO 8, but was curious if the tire signals were just weakened or gone/clipped. So I turned in-game torque up to 10 and reduced FOR to 40-50 keeping overall FFB at 95-100. Using the sound amp analogy, turning up the input signal (game) rather than the amp (wheel) for equivalent loudness (force). Then varied FEI up/down to taste. I could get a bit more surface effects - dips, ruts etc, MAYBE a bit of tire - different maybe slightly better, but it still felt pretty much gone. PD really must have changed the wrong variable to increase the force in the last update and I don’t think wheel settings can compensate.

 

[FMW]

It’s very hard to tell or describe but it DOES have an Effect in Game.
At least the DPR does.
But how do I describe it the best?
It makes the NDP feel less sticky and more responsive I‘d say. At least that’s what it felt to me.
The effect is very subtle though.
Just yesterday I was fiddling around especially with these two Parameters back to back, same Car same Track, same Conditions.
And there definitely was something going on turning them all the way up and down while leaving the other Setting untouched.
The SPR Setting though didn’t seem to have a noticeable effect, hence I’d say 100% or 0% it doesn’t impact while racing.
DPR definitely has an impact, I found it harder to be precise and hold the line with it being turned off.
Therefore I’d suggest to leave it on.

So, the DAMPER/SPRING setting for GT7 has been contested for a bit from what I've read on these forums and the FANATEC forums. I've been running Pirovacboy's latest settings and I quite like them! When I read the DAMPER thing I just had to find out for myself. Well, color me purple! Yeah, between off and 100 percent, DAMPER has an effect. Like Pirovacboy said, it's subtle and hard to explain, but it is there. I did the Suzuka Daily C race all day today. I've been trying to beat two buddies time trial time. With DAMPER off, I got around really well. I know Suzuka super well. However, I could not get close to my buddies times. After an hour I decided to try DAMPER at 100%. WOW! I picked up time! I also felt what Pirovacboy was talking about. I can be more precise! It's not night/day difference, but it's noticeable. Enough that I won't run with it off ever again. Unless PD decides to break that too. LOL Thanks Pirovacboy, for settling that issue in my head.

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

Regarding FFB "language", watch from 16:24. He explains it very well, and it's applicable in some regard to all games.

Now figure out what parameter or parameters Polyphony Digital ****ed up. It can be fun to guess.

 

[RS60NR]

After trying ingame up to 10 to see if it would pick up weak forces any differently, but I found the curbs had disappeared (yes there are curbs in a few places like Trial Mtn), so I lowered in game to 3 and upped FOR to 120 to test for software clipping and liked that a bit more. 2 is too weak. Can’t say that tire force is massively improved though.

Tuning Menu Settings:

SEN Auto
FF 100
FFS Peak
NDP 30
NFR Off
NIN Off
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 120
SPR 100
DPR 100
In-Game Settings:

Controller Settings:
Force Feedback Max. Torque: 3
Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

 

[B80]

Haven't had a chance to play since 1.17 update. Any difference with this wheel setup guys?

 

[Tuna_350Z]

No

 

[RS60NR]

agree - no change in 1.17. I did try sensitivity turned up to 10 and that is slightly better to me in some ways but the tire issue is still there.

 

[NikNakTobasco]

For the first time in probably 2 months I actually used a non hard tyre, in a custom lobby of course as PD seemingly have an allergy to soft rubber. The lack of feedback in corners is more of an issue with the grippy softs. It doesn’t slip or slide like the hards do so you just go immediately to locking up with no middle ground. I hope they address it.

 

[RS60NR]

The lack of feedback in corners is more of an issue with the grippy softs

yeah I noticed the slicks seem the worst - the comfort and sport tires feel a bit more lively

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

For the first time in probably 2 months I actually used a non hard tyre, in a custom lobby of course as PD seemingly have an allergy to soft rubber. The lack of feedback in corners is more of an issue with the grippy softs. It doesn’t slip or slide like the hards do so you just go immediately to locking up with no middle ground. I hope they address it.

yeah I noticed the slicks seem the worst - the comfort and sport tires feel a bit more lively

Yes, since grippier tyres equal larger forces during cornering, which in Gran Turismo terms means even more FFB clipping.

 

[Daz555]

I think this thread needs renaming.

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

I think this thread needs renaming.

There's not much else to talk about. It just works, except for the odd broken QR or bolts that need tightening.

 

[zocker_16]

Hi guys, I´m planning to upgrade my CSL-Elite to a DD-Pro 8 NM Base.
Sadly the GT DD Bundle is out of stock for a long time now and so I´m thinking about getting the base + a different wheel.
Is there a wheel anyone could recommend? I´ve heard the GT Wheel from the bundle isn´t that good and many people try to sell it.
I´m a fan of round wheels so Formula and McLaren wheels are not what I´m looking for. Don´t know If the universal Hub is perfect for GT7.
I´m using the P1 wheel since a couple of years and really like the button mapping even it would be better with a small round-switch for fuel, brake balance etc. .

 

[HugoTwoWheels]

Hi guys, I´m planning to upgrade my CSL-Elite to a DD-Pro 8 NM Base.
Sadly the GT DD Bundle is out of stock for a long time now and so I´m thinking about getting the base + a different wheel.
Is there a wheel anyone could recommend? I´ve heard the GT Wheel from the bundle isn´t that good and many people try to sell it.
I´m a fan of round wheels so Formula and McLaren wheels are not what I´m looking for. Don´t know If the universal Hub is perfect for GT7.
I´m using the P1 wheel since a couple of years and really like the button mapping even it would be better with a small round-switch for fuel, brake balance etc. .

I'm on 8 Nm and wouldn't match a large diameter and heavy wheel with 8 Nm. 27-28 cm and light is what works, in my experience, in case you want to experience full dynamic range with full linearity, without clipping.

Unless you're playing GT7 - then everything works equally bad. The FFB is so compressed (non-linear) and clipping that I see no point in going after what I'm describing above.

And yeah, the GT wheel is good for what it is. I'm forgetting it while driving so it's doing its job. Looks are a matter of preference.

 

[palqo]

Hi guys, I´m planning to upgrade my CSL-Elite to a DD-Pro 8 NM Base.
Sadly the GT DD Bundle is out of stock for a long time now and so I´m thinking about getting the base + a different wheel.
Is there a wheel anyone could recommend? I´ve heard the GT Wheel from the bundle isn´t that good and many people try to sell it.
I´m a fan of round wheels so Formula and McLaren wheels are not what I´m looking for. Don´t know If the universal Hub is perfect for GT7.
I´m using the P1 wheel since a couple of years and really like the button mapping even it would be better with a small round-switch for fuel, brake balance etc. .

I've also bought the base only. I'm using the Xbox hub with Forza rim and yes for GT7 I don't see any problems with it. If the buttons are enough for you, you can use the GT rim. If you are planning the podium button module for PC, the rim will not fit, you need the podium rim. But that's about it.
The bundle wheel is not very good in my opinion, I have a F1 v2.5x wheel for small diameter, but for normal cars, the 30+ cm diameter wheel is a must have. Some cars are just not drivable with a small wheel.

 

[B80]

I've also bought the base only. I'm using the Xbox hub with Forza rim and yes for GT7 I don't see any problems with it. If the buttons are enough for you, you can use the GT rim. If you are planning the podium button module for PC, the rim will not fit, you need the podium rim. But that's about it.
The bundle wheel is not very good in my opinion, I have a F1 v2.5x wheel for small diameter, but for normal cars, the 30+ cm diameter wheel is a must have. Some cars are just not drivable with a small wheel.

What's the xbox hub mate, as I'm intersted in making it compatible for series x. I thought yiu had to buy an xbox compatible wheel?

 

[palqo]

What's the xbox hub mate, as I'm intersted in making it compatible for series x. I thought yiu had to buy an xbox compatible wheel?

Most wheels are built based on the Universal Hub. You just add a rim to it to make it a steering wheel (if you open a steering wheel, you will see the components it's built from, the bundle has a discount compared to sum of parts). Xbox Hub is just the Universal hub with Xbox compatibility. 20 euros extra compared to the Universal Hub. Unlike the 120 euro extra for PS compatible base. But yes, you need an Xbox compatible wheel, which works with PS no problem.

 

[PJTierney]

Anyone found nice settings for this wheelbase with F1 22?

I’m still fiddling about with mine for the moment.

 

[RS60NR]

My DDpro 8 settings for f1 22
In game:
Strength 70
On track 50
Rumble 60
Off track 50
Wheel damper 1 - curious about what this setting does - 1 is default but is 0 better?
Understeer off
360
900

Wheel:
Sens auto
FF str 62 - to taste, but at high speed corners firms up pretty strongly
FF scale peak
Nat dpr 15 - no serious shaking at this level, could go a bit lower
Nat fri 5 - wheel felt a bit loose at low speeds these two add some heft
Nat inert 5
FF interp 7 - down from default 11 seems to add more surface detail, but not grainy on smooth pavement
FEI 100
For 100
Spr 100
Dpr 100
BI 75
Br for 60

formula v2 wheel

 

[FMW]

Hi guys, I´m planning to upgrade my CSL-Elite to a DD-Pro 8 NM Base.
Sadly the GT DD Bundle is out of stock for a long time now and so I´m thinking about getting the base + a different wheel.
Is there a wheel anyone could recommend? I´ve heard the GT Wheel from the bundle isn´t that good and many people try to sell it.
I´m a fan of round wheels so Formula and McLaren wheels are not what I´m looking for. Don´t know If the universal Hub is perfect for GT7.
I´m using the P1 wheel since a couple of years and really like the button mapping even it would be better with a small round-switch for fuel, brake balance etc. .

I'm running the GT DD Pro 8nM with my Fanatec BMW GT2 V2 wheel rim, which I already owned along with my V3 pedals. I really like that combination! The BMW V2 is light and does well with the 8nM of torque. For GT7 it's a nice fit. Just know, depending on what wheel you decide on, you may loose the one thing the included bundled wheel has, and that's the on the fly encoders that MAP your fuel, brake bias and 4WD torque settings. You can still do it with other wheels, but you will have to maneuver through the on screen menu, which is super easy IMO. For my F1 games I use the Formula V2.5. Super fun and it's also well matched with the GTDD Pro IMO.