Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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Does anyone use their GT DD Pro on a PS4/PS5 in compatibility mode (purple LED) as opposed to native mode (blue LED)?

I have a GT DD Pro for playing GT7 on a PS5. The left analogue stick on both my ClubSport RS and F1 Esports V2 wheels control the camera to look around. With the base in native mode (blue) the camera can look left and right. When the base is in compatibility mode (purple), the camera can also look behind (stick down).

Is there any disadvantage to using my setup on compatibility mode?

Unless I'm missing something, the force feedback feels more or less the same to me. It just seems so unintuitive not to use the native setting with a GT-dedicated wheel base in a GT game.
Just googled around re your question. Threads on reddit and other forums insinuate theres no difference at all between compatbility mode and ps mode... in terms of ffb, feel etc
 
My DD Pro seems to have died. Mid race yesterday it disconected, I suspected the usual problems with the connection pulling loose and needing to push it back in and tighten the collar properly. But I've done this around 10 times and no luck it doesn't fix the problem.

The symptoms is that when powered on it initially does the usual twisting of the wheel with the red light on, but then the light starts cycling between blue and green/yellow. Trying to change mode with the power button does nothing, a long press can switch it off as usual.

If I connect the laptop it says "No Fanatec device found!" , but does want to update the firmware. I can let it do that, it appears to work but we're still stuck in the same state and it keeps wanting to flash the firmware again. Long power press for bootload mode works, it can flash the firmware, when it reboots at the end it's just back to the same blue, green/yellow cycling mode.

Any thoughts before I contact customer support tomorrow morning?
 
@MetalApe
Which driver?

Have you tried booting without a wheel attached?

Some people have found success reverting drivers and rolling back firmware on the base etc but im not knowledgeable enough to guide you through it.
 
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Which driver?
I've got the 455 driver installed.
Have you tried booting without a wheel attached?
Very good question, I did just try booting without the wheel attached. It appears to temporarily fix the wheelbase problem, it's back to normal with the blue light, and cycling through the other modes when pressing it. I can connect the laptop, everything looks fine.

I put the wheel back on and it's back to the error state with the cycling light colours.

Does that get us closer to a solution, guess it's got to be something to do with my wheel now.
 
I think I might have broken the pins. Do these pictures show two pins snapped off wheel side connector and trapped in the base side connector? Or are those two pins supposed to be like that?

IMG_20240128_165459a.jpg
IMG_20240128_165336a.jpg
 
I've got the 455 driver installed.

Very good question, I did just try booting without the wheel attached. It appears to temporarily fix the wheelbase problem, it's back to normal with the blue light, and cycling through the other modes when pressing it. I can connect the laptop, everything looks fine.

I put the wheel back on and it's back to the error state with the cycling light colours.

Does that get us closer to a solution, guess it's got to be something to do with my wheel now.
I would try the repair driver function on 455 and see if that does anything.

Do you have other wheels to test with?

Also, reverting to 454 or the last working one may work, might have to do some firmware stuff to the base. This is where it gets into no man’s land for me as I haven’t been forced down the path yet. Been mac’s for the past decade, and only have a $400 laptop purely for updating the wheel. Consequently, win driver roll backs are a faint memory. However, ive been over on the fanatec boards and this seems to work for some.

Hoping someone more versed in the technical side can chime in.
 
yes broken pins - don’t try another wheel until they are removed. Also based on my reading on the Fanatec forum, I’d say 455 does little for DD pro unless you need the Rally Module, and has so many other issues, so stick at 451
 
Thanks for the help, I assume the broken pins are all part of the QR1 connecter, not the wheel. So would a QR2 upgrade would fix the problem?
 
I've got a DDPro wheel QR1 I would part with if you need one. I dunno if getting another is an issue for you but hit me up if it is.

Edit to say, if you have any issues getting this resolved with Fanatec, I would offer my whole QR1 setup if you pay for me to ship it.
 
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I’ve been thinking about upgrading my wheel but have been hesitant about the DD Pro because of how many intricate things seem to have to be in tune to make it work and even then it seems like a lot of peeps have issues.

The last thing I want after an upgrade is to have to upgrade to constantly change settings or do firmware updates or even have disconnects while racing.

I’ve been on T300 RS and may just get a T GT ll base and upgrade pedals for now.

When I look at the investment vs troubles it doesn’t appear to be worth it ATM. If I switch brands I also have to buy another open wheel which just adds $$ to a possible sketchy purchase.

Is DD pro really as fragile and high maintenance as it seems?? 🤔
 
I’ve been thinking about upgrading my wheel but have been hesitant about the DD Pro because of how many intricate things seem to have to be in tune to make it work and even then it seems like a lot of peeps have issues.

The last thing I want after an upgrade is to have to upgrade to constantly change settings or do firmware updates or even have disconnects while racing.

I’ve been on T300 RS and may just get a T GT ll base and upgrade pedals for now.

When I look at the investment vs troubles it doesn’t appear to be worth it ATM. If I switch brands I also have to buy another open wheel which just adds $$ to a possible sketchy purchase.

Is DD pro really as fragile and high maintenance as it seems?? 🤔
I've had mine since launch without issues. I never used the GT wheel. I use a WRC and McLaren GT3 wheels, both with the metal QR1. No problems with my Clubsport V3 pedals or my Clubsport handbrake, either.

I think I updated the firmware once, ages ago.

But Fanatec does seem to be among the least reliable wheel brands out there. Logitechs are bulletproof (speaking from experience).
 
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I’ve been thinking about upgrading my wheel but have been hesitant about the DD Pro because of how many intricate things seem to have to be in tune to make it work and even then it seems like a lot of peeps have issues.

The last thing I want after an upgrade is to have to upgrade to constantly change settings or do firmware updates or even have disconnects while racing.

I’ve been on T300 RS and may just get a T GT ll base and upgrade pedals for now.

When I look at the investment vs troubles it doesn’t appear to be worth it ATM. If I switch brands I also have to buy another open wheel which just adds $$ to a possible sketchy purchase.

Is DD pro really as fragile and high maintenance as it seems?? 🤔
I have had one disconnect in the 8 months I've had mine. I haven't updated a thing since I took it out of the box. I messed with settings at one point but couldn't tell you the parameters I even run it in and it works great every time. I think the majority of owners probably don't have too many issues, but forums are always amplifiers.
 
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I've had mine since launch without issues. I never used the GT wheel. I use a WRC and McLaren GT3 wheels, both with the metal QR1. No problems with my Clubsport V3 pedals or my Clubsport handbrake, either.

I think I updated the firmware once, ages ago.

But Fanatec does seem to be among the least reliable wheel brands out there. Logitechs are bulletproof (speaking from experience).

I have had one disconnect in the 8 months I've had mine. I haven't updated a thing since I took it out of the box. I messed with settings at one point but couldn't tell you the parameters I even run it in and it works great every time. I think the majority of owners probably don't have too many issues, but forums are always amplifiers.


Thanks for the insight because it is much appreciated. I definitely would be using it plug and play.

I was getting pressure from my wife again (of all people 😂) as to why I haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I came to this section to get a few pages of information and it made me think it may not be worth it.

I hear lots of good mixed with the bad and watched @Tidgney review a week ago and decided it might be time to do this but my first few pages of this thread made me feel the need to ask how good or bad it has been for you.

I’ve had a few people I know say they like the McLaren wheel so I’ll look into that a bit more. Pedals they offer is the other thing. I’ll read up more on V2 vs V3 and probably get the order in for the waiting to begin.
 
Thanks for the insight because it is much appreciated. I definitely would be using it plug and play.

I was getting pressure from my wife again (of all people 😂) as to why I haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I came to this section to get a few pages of information and it made me think it may not be worth it.

I hear lots of good mixed with the bad and watched @Tidgney review a week ago and decided it might be time to do this but my first few pages of this thread made me feel the need to ask how good or bad it has been for you.

I’ve had a few people I know say they like the McLaren wheel so I’ll look into that a bit more. Pedals they offer is the other thing. I’ll read up more on V2 vs V3 and probably get the order in for the waiting to begin.
V2 are the ones for value per dollar. I've got modded CSL pedals and they are the one place I know I need to upgrade. I've got a clubsport RS wheel and a Formula 2.5x yoke style. Love em both.
 
The pins are broken on the wheel itself. As said above you'll need to send it back for repair. Hopefully you'll be able to extract the broken ones from the shaft otherwise that'll need replacing as well.
Thanks everyone, the broken pins came out with tweezers no problem. Waiting to hear back from Fanatec tech support now about returning the wheel for repairs.
 
Thanks everyone, the broken pins came out with tweezers no problem. Waiting to hear back from Fanatec tech support now about returning the wheel for repairs.

Maybe you should use the security screw with the qr1, there is less flexibility if you use it apparently!
 
Thanks for the insight because it is much appreciated. I definitely would be using it plug and play.

I was getting pressure from my wife again (of all people 😂) as to why I haven’t pulled the trigger yet. I came to this section to get a few pages of information and it made me think it may not be worth it.

I hear lots of good mixed with the bad and watched @Tidgney review a week ago and decided it might be time to do this but my first few pages of this thread made me feel the need to ask how good or bad it has been for you.

I’ve had a few people I know say they like the McLaren wheel so I’ll look into that a bit more. Pedals they offer is the other thing. I’ll read up more on V2 vs V3 and probably get the order in for the waiting to begin.
I used a CSL Elite for a few years without problems with V3-pedals and the (newer) McLaren wheel. I had also a formula wheel but never touched it again since the McLaren thing arrived (yes, McLaren Fan and most of the time GT-racer).

Now I did a major upgrade and use now a DD Pro (8nm). It feels different but so far not much better. Everything is now equipped with QR2 which feels better but I never had problems with the (Metal) QR1.

For drift and rally I use the WRC wheel as I like the lighter wheels of the CSL series. So, everything's fine and I am a satisfied customer. Personally my experience improved massively with a proper racing Cockpit (GT Omega ART) and only a tiny bit with the new wheelbase. Hope this helps.
 
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I used a CSL Elite for a few years without problems with V3-pedals and the (newer) McLaren wheel. I had also a formula wheel but never touched it again since the McLaren thing arrived (yes, McLaren Fan and most of the time GT-racer).

Now I did a major upgrade and use now a DD Pro (8nm). It feels different but so far not much better. Everything is now equipped with QR2 which feels better but I never had problems with the (Metal) QR1.

For drift and rally I use the WRC wheel as I like the lighter wheelbase of the CSL series. So, everything's fine and I am a satisfied customer. Personally my experience improved massively with a proper racing Cockpit (GT Omega ART) and only a tiny Bit with the new wheelbase. Hope this helps.
I'd never used a wheel before so have no comparison but the settings make a big difference. I don't know what games you play but I've done my own settings for GT7 & ACC and for me they're so much better than Fanatecs recommended or any others I've tried.
 
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I'd never used a wheel before so have no comparison but the settings make a big difference. I don't know what games you play but I've done my own settings for GT7 & ACC and for me they're so much better than Fanatecs recommended or any others I've tried.
I have a good improvement with your settings but I really can't enjoy ACC!
I've been playing GT for 20 years and maybe it's because of that but I really find the sensations and details of the road felt in the steering wheel better in GT! But it should be the opposite ACC is a real simulation with better driving sensations to hear people!!! Maybe you have to spend more hours disappointed, I don't know!!!
 
yes broken pins - don’t try another wheel until they are removed. Also based on my reading on the Fanatec forum, I’d say 455 does little for DD pro unless you need the Rally Module, and has so many other issues, so stick at 451
Are you familiar with the reverting process?

I absentmindedly went and upgraded to 455 a week ago. Wasn’t intending to do so, but had opened the laptop to change a setting for the f1 esports v2 yoke, and there it was..

Subsequently, over the past week it now randomly disconnects. I have an idea this could be related to changing wheel settings, through the wheel(univ v2 hub 330mm round), while in gt7. I think at least. It seems there is a brief shimmer which is noticeable on flat when the wheel settings are modified when in game and the fanalogs show a raytracing error. The shimmer is very subtle and brief, but apparent.

Pretty sure my wiring and connections are solid. Spent some time on the business side of photo/video shoots and have decent habits in that regard.

However if its not i think i need to revert the wheel, the base, and the driver, which is unfamiliar ground, to say the least. Not there yet..but ugh.

Thing which really worries me is that fanatec is in such a bad way presently that it sounds as if its taking 7-10days to even get an email response and who knows how long to get it fixed if its some random snafu like this. Part of me thinks it might be faster to order the DD+, than execute a RMA.

Going to try not touching wheel settings and hope for the best today. I can live with not messing with wheel settings until next driver. Spent the past two months messing with those things. Kinda done with tinkering with it for a while anyway.

…man i hope its messing with the fanatec wheel settings which is triggering this.
 
I'd never used a wheel before so have no comparison but the settings make a big difference. I don't know what games you play but I've done my own settings for GT7 & ACC and for me they're so much better than Fanatecs recommended or any others I've tried.
Hey Abarth,
would you mind sharing your GT7 settings for your DD Pro?
I can‘t find them in the Forums, and I don‘t see your Signature as you mentioned to another user you would put them in your sig.

I just switched from a Thrustmaster T818 to Fanatec as I urgently wanted to enjoy GT7 on my PS 5 with a wheel also (T818 hasn‘t got console support).

So since last weekend I am on a DD pro with 8 NM, CSL Elite V2 breaks (I feel that loadcell brake is veeery stiff even at BreakForce level of 25% or 30 % boy - had my old Thrustmaster T-LCM‘s running on 60% but they felt like a softy pillow compared to the V2‘s)…
Using a McLaren GT3 V2 Wheel mainly and the new F1 2023 Limited Edition Wheel for openwheelers.

It runs just flawlessly and it feels very awesome, I am pretty quick though right from the very first lap, even quicker than with controller yet by now but I would like to tweak a bit around more with the settings and someone on another forum recommended to use your settings.
So i would really appreciate you sharing them…

Regards!
 
Hey Abarth,
would you mind sharing your GT7 settings for your DD Pro?
I can‘t find them in the Forums, and I don‘t see your Signature as you mentioned to another user you would put them in your sig.

I just switched from a Thrustmaster T818 to Fanatec as I urgently wanted to enjoy GT7 on my PS 5 with a wheel also (T818 hasn‘t got console support).

So since last weekend I am on a DD pro with 8 NM, CSL Elite V2 breaks (I feel that loadcell brake is veeery stiff even at BreakForce level of 25% or 30 % boy - had my old Thrustmaster T-LCM‘s running on 60% but they felt like a softy pillow compared to the V2‘s)…
Using a McLaren GT3 V2 Wheel mainly and the new F1 2023 Limited Edition Wheel for openwheelers.

It runs just flawlessly and it feels very awesome, I am pretty quick though right from the very first lap, even quicker than with controller yet by now but I would like to tweak a bit around more with the settings and someone on another forum recommended to use your settings.
So i would really appreciate you sharing them…

Regards!
In the 1st column are my current settings for gt7
La the 2nd is Digit the YouTuber https://dg-edge.com/best-settings-for-fanatec-gt-dd-pro-in-2023/
The 3rd recommended by Fanate

IMG_6113.jpg

For the V2 brake which I find too hard with not enough travel, I added the second spring that you have in the V2 box instead of an elastomer! And I have the BFR at 15
IMG_6114.PNG
 
Hey Abarth,
would you mind sharing your GT7 settings for your DD Pro?
I can‘t find them in the Forums, and I don‘t see your Signature as you mentioned to another user you would put them in your sig.

I just switched from a Thrustmaster T818 to Fanatec as I urgently wanted to enjoy GT7 on my PS 5 with a wheel also (T818 hasn‘t got console support).

So since last weekend I am on a DD pro with 8 NM, CSL Elite V2 breaks (I feel that loadcell brake is veeery stiff even at BreakForce level of 25% or 30 % boy - had my old Thrustmaster T-LCM‘s running on 60% but they felt like a softy pillow compared to the V2‘s)…
Using a McLaren GT3 V2 Wheel mainly and the new F1 2023 Limited Edition Wheel for openwheelers.

It runs just flawlessly and it feels very awesome, I am pretty quick though right from the very first lap, even quicker than with controller yet by now but I would like to tweak a bit around more with the settings and someone on another forum recommended to use your settings.
So i would really appreciate you sharing them…

Regards!
No probs, I meant to put them back up the other day. I'll do it when I get home from work later.
 
In the 1st column are my current settings for gt7
La the 2nd is Digit the YouTuber https://dg-edge.com/best-settings-for-fanatec-gt-dd-pro-in-2023/
The 3rd recommended by Fanate

View attachment 1323651

For the V2 brake which I find too hard with not enough travel, I added the second spring that you have in the V2 box instead of an elastomer! And I have the BFR at 15
View attachment 1323650
Hey Todt,

thanks so much for sharing your settings!
I will give them a try, perhaps tonight!

And also thank you for the hint with that second spring swapping for a rubber, didn’t even think about having that option 😅
I guess for me it will help me a lot to give them brakes more travel - the short way felt quite annoying to me compared to the T-LCM’s I used before 😅
Which rubbers (shore) do you use?


Edit:
Which powersupply do you use?
Because Digit (YouTuber) stated that his recommended settings are for the 5nm Version, bit I am running it in 8nm…

Regards
 
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Are you familiar with the reverting process?

I absentmindedly went and upgraded to 455 a week ago. Wasn’t intending to do so, but had opened the laptop to change a setting for the f1 esports v2 yoke, and there it was..

Subsequently, over the past week it now randomly disconnects. I have an idea this could be related to changing wheel settings, through the wheel(univ v2 hub 330mm round), while in gt7. I think at least. It seems there is a brief shimmer which is noticeable on flat when the wheel settings are modified when in game and the fanalogs show a raytracing error. The shimmer is very subtle and brief, but apparent.

Pretty sure my wiring and connections are solid. Spent some time on the business side of photo/video shoots and have decent habits in that regard.

However if its not i think i need to revert the wheel, the base, and the driver, which is unfamiliar ground, to say the least. Not there yet..but ugh.

Thing which really worries me is that fanatec is in such a bad way presently that it sounds as if its taking 7-10days to even get an email response and who knows how long to get it fixed if its some random snafu like this. Part of me thinks it might be faster to order the DD+, than execute a RMA.

Going to try not touching wheel settings and hope for the best today. I can live with not messing with wheel settings until next driver. Spent the past two months messing with those things. Kinda done with tinkering with it for a while anyway.

…man i hope its messing with the fanatec wheel settings which is triggering this.
Not personally have done a downgrade. The process has been described on the Fanatec forum in the drivers section, look for posts by Maurice Boschen. I have been a Fanatec user for over 12 years, most recently going from a CSW V2 w drive hub to the DD Pro last year after it had been out for a while.

I’ve always checked the drivers section on the forum where people discuss their experiences with the latest beta and production releases. When a new driver comes out, I read these notes to find out not only what new features there may be, but also what issues people w my setup have experienced. Only if the update seems stable will I move on to a new version. Otherwise I just wait

Currently I’m on 450, pretty much identical to 451 which is the release version. For the DD Pro its been really solid for me. Occaisional disconnects - 1 or 2 in the past 3 months or so.

Never had any issues when adjusting wheel settings. Only issue was with manually calibrating my V3 pedals in the driver - this seems to conflict with GT7 which has its own way of setting max/mins and manually calibrating so I just use auto on the Fanatec driver.

Regarding settings, spent a lot of time evovling mine, and they ended up very similar to @Abarth_71 s, so I mostly look at his and maybe make a few tweeks.
 
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