Fanatec Gran Turismo DD Pro

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Hello, quick question: I have strong vibrations not
very natural in the steering wheel (GT DD PRO 8nm on Granturismo 7) when the car starts to slip with Fanatec settings !
Do you have any advice?
Thanks in advance
 
Hello, quick question: I have strong vibrations not
very natural in the steering wheel (GT DD PRO 8nm on Granturismo 7) when the car starts to slip with Fanatec settings !
Do you have any advice?
Thanks in advance
The judder when the car understeers? Unfortunately that's a "feature" of the game and is how PD decided to let you feel understeer. It can't be turned off and is nothing to do with the wheel settings.
 
The judder when the car understeers? Unfortunately that's a "feature" of the game and is how PD decided to let you feel understeer. It can't be turned off and is nothing to do with the wheel settings.
Ok I see, thank you for your answer.
I noticed that if you increase the INT a lot like 15-16 (min=0/max=20) things are already much better!
 
I use a Simlab GT1 EVO with Fanatec DD Pro and I wonder if anyone has installed or if there is a system to quickly adjust the steering wheel (up and down) without having to use tools ?
I have 2 steering wheels and when I change I would like to adapt the distances a little !
Thanks
 
I use a Simlab GT1 EVO with Fanatec DD Pro and I wonder if anyone has installed or if there is a system to quickly adjust the steering wheel (up and down) without having to use tools ?
I have 2 steering wheels and when I change I would like to adapt the distances a little !
Thanks
I built my dad a rig a couple of months ago with your exact spec Sim Lab chassis and wheel set up. The quick answer is no. If you want to quickly raise the wheel, you're going to have to use tools. It took me a few tries to get the right height for him and that RIG, while easy to build, does not offer quick non-tool height/distance adjustments. I have the Sim Lab TR-1 (no longer available). That rig makes it easy to adjust wheel angle adjustment without using tools, but if I need to change the height distance, it's the same as the GT-1 EVO. You'll need tools.
 
FMW
I built my dad a rig a couple of months ago with your exact spec Sim Lab chassis and wheel set up. The quick answer is no. If you want to quickly raise the wheel, you're going to have to use tools. It took me a few tries to get the right height for him and that RIG, while easy to build, does not offer quick non-tool height/distance adjustments. I have the Sim Lab TR-1 (no longer available). That rig makes it easy to adjust wheel angle adjustment without using tools, but if I need to change the height distance, it's the same as the GT-1 EVO. You'll need tools.
I need to find a good compromise in height between the wheels, in any case thank you for your answer!
 
I need to find a good compromise in height between the wheels, in any case thank you for your answer!
I've used quite a few wheels and found the place where you grip the wheel is almost in the same relative place on all of them (close to the centre-line of the rim. What two rims do you have where there is a large enough difference for you to want to move the entire wheelbase?
 
I've used quite a few wheels and found the place where you grip the wheel is almost in the same relative place on all of them (close to the centre-line of the rim. What two rims do you have where there is a large enough difference for you to want to move the entire wheelbase?
I have an F1 esport in 270mm and Bmw M3 GT2 in 320mm, The BMW is longer (Axle) and given that the diameter is also larger, I find the wheel in front of my eyes if I put the height for me ideal with the F1 wheel!
 
I haven’t updated to the latest Firmware, no.
I‘m still running the previous Firmware Version.
But what I actually did, although I’ve already done it a few Months ago, I spent lots of time tweaking the FFB and found my personal Sweet Spot.
From my personal experience and countless driving and testing the following Settings provide a sensational Feedback.

8NM Boost Kit

SEN: AUTO

FFB: 100

FFS: PEAK

NDP: 30

NFR: 10

NIN: 2

INT: 1

FEI: 100

FOR: 100

SPR: 100

DPR: 100


GT7 in Game Settings:

Force Feedback Max Torque: 5

Force Feedback Sensitivity: 1

I‘m absolutely sure you’ll enjoy them.

Quite confident that these might be THE best Possible Settings for experiencing GT7s‘ outstanding FFB Implementation.

Actually, anyone should try and use them.
They are awesome 🙂
Updated firmware yesterday and forgot to save my settings..I was scratching my head which settings I had settled in last year as they just felt supreme to me. I remembered this morning, dialed your settings in and presto! You are so correct about weight transfer. It is so well communicated with this setting, especially when on comfort tires and untuned road cars. Whenever we have a combination of stock road cars on time trials, I perform my best, usually within the top 150 because I generally feel balance of weight which leads to better control and faster times.
 
A really good mod is to fit an R/C damper. Makes the pedal stiffer and you can adjust the resistance.

nlEXmxP.jpg
 
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My QR2 base and wheel parts arrived today for my DD Pro.. very quick and easy to fit. I got the QR2-lite adapter to go with my McLaren GT3 wheel but the connection feels very secure.

I've only had a quick couple of laps on the Gr2 time trial but the wheel feels great - I'm sure with the overall lower weight I can feel slight effects that weren't noticeable before.

Edit/ having used the QR2 Lite adapter now for a week, I'd say it actually feels better than my metal QR1 version.
 
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I just got a new 8 Nm DD Pro setup and have been putting in a few hours behind the wheel. I'm starting with the suggested settings posted on the Fanatec forum:

Base: SEN Auto / FF 100 / FFS Peak / NDP 38 / NFR Off / NIN Off / INT 2 / FEI 100 / FOR 100 / SPR 100 / DPR 100 In-game: Max Torque 5 / Sensitivity 1
With the small-diameter F1 Esports V2 formula-style wheel, I'm finding the steering torque a bit too heavy for my liking.

What's the best way to lower the force? Decrease FF in the tuning menu? Lower the Force Feedback Max. Torque value in the GT7 menu? Or something else?
 
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I just got a new 8 Nm DD Pro setup and have been putting in a few hours behind the wheel. I'm starting with the suggested settings posted on the Fanatec forum:

Base: SEN Auto / FF 100 / FFS Peak / NDP 38 / NFR Off / NIN Off / INT 2 / FEI 100 / FOR 100 / SPR 100 / DPR 100 In-game: Max Torque 5 / Sensitivity 1
With the small-diameter F1 Esports V2 formula-style wheel, I'm finding the steering torque a bit too heavy for my liking.

What's the best way to lower the force? Decrease FF in the tuning menu? Lower the Force Feedback Max. Torque value in the GT7 menu? Or something else?

Have a look @Abarth_71 settings a few posts above - there's a link in his signature.
 
For in-game sensitivity I can never get a definitive answer on that. I see some people state should be 1, other people state it should be 10. I’ve been using 10.

Why is there so much confusion on sensitivity?
 
My wheel settings are very different to a lot of others here. The others may give performance but did not feel natural to me.

I’ve been tweaking recently as I got the 8Nm supply and a ClubSport Formula 2.5X for Christmas. I also use V2 pedals.

One new thing for me is the brake force indicator. This rumbles the wheel when you apply force over a certain level. I’m still playing with that as I’m finding my braking is now more variable between what it used to be and woah, I broke way too soon….

My Setting - SET 1
  • [ ] SEN - Auto
  • [ ] FFB - 95
  • [ ] FFS - PEAK
  • [ ] NDP - 80
  • [ ] NFR - OFF
  • [ ] NIN - 10
  • [ ] INT - 6
  • [ ] FEI - 100
  • [ ] FOR - 90
  • [ ] SPR - 90
  • [ ] DPR - 100
  • [ ] BFI - 75
  • [ ] SHO - ON
  • [ ] MPS - AUTO
  • [ ] BRF - 85
In game: 5/10

The settings started out from those posted by TheKei25 but I’ve tweaked since then.

I’d be curious if others try these and what you think of them.

Edit. Another big change for me is that I got a solid af 8020 rig. With that I’ve been able to increase my brake force. I was running at 40 but have now crept up to 85 as my leg got stronger, but I may have to back this off as 6 months ago I sprained my angle in my left leg, and now it’s getting painful again. Guess I’m still not 100% healed.
 
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My wheel settings are very different to a lot of others here. The others may give performance but did not feel natural to me.

I’ve been tweaking recently as I got the 8Nm supply and a ClubSport Formula 2.5X for Christmas. I also use V2 pedals.

One new thing for me is the brake force indicator. This rumbles the wheel when you apply force over a certain level. I’m still playing with that as I’m finding my braking is now more variable between what it used to be and woah, I broke way too soon….

My Setting - SET 1
  • [ ] SEN - Auto
  • [ ] FFB - 95
  • [ ] FFS - PEAK
  • [ ] NDP - 80
  • [ ] NFR - OFF
  • [ ] NIN - 10
  • [ ] INT - 6
  • [ ] FEI - 100
  • [ ] FOR - 90
  • [ ] SPR - 90
  • [ ] DPR - 100
  • [ ] BFI - 75
  • [ ] SHO - ON
  • [ ] MPS - AUTO
  • [ ] BRF - 85
In game: 5/10

The settings started out from those posted by TheKei25 but I’ve tweaked since then.

I’d be curious if others try these and what you think of them.

Edit. Another big change for me is that I got a solid af 8020 rig. With that I’ve been able to increase my brake force. I was running at 40 but have now crept up to 85 as my leg got stronger, but I may have to back this off as 6 months ago I sprained my angle in my left leg, and now it’s getting painful again. Guess I’m still not 100% healed.
Soooo. I was about to post mine, but decided to try yours and went faster…

Going to find some time and mess around today with things. In all honesty, ive been down the rabbit hold for almost two months now. Think I spend more time screwing around with wheel settings than racing. Also, i use the next level lite stand, which the dd pro can lift off the ground if i hold onto the wheel during a wreck. Going to try the next level dd stand next week(arriving the 9th) which will probably bork my current settings anyway. St croix’s long medium corners are certainly proving to be a good spot to evaluate things at least.
 
I've been running sensitivity at 1 for a while , but decided to give 10 a go... And I couldn't notice a huge difference?? I think it felt a little bit less sharp at 10, with a slightly mushy feel. Is 1 more sensitive than 10?

I only tried on the tracks for B and C so not a good representation possibly as I don't like either of them. When I get some days off I'll try again on a more likeable track...
 
If you're going to upgrade to a CS DD+ and plan to use a significant portion of its power, you'd better have a real cockpit that doesn't flex.
The academic side of my brain completely agrees and i’ve been staring at them for months. However, the pitty and frenchy would feel completely forsaken. So while i know its dumb, and ill get a cockpit sooner than later…i kinda have to at least give the last option before cockpit a shot.

Ps: note the l33t wedgeing of the ottoman and stand lol…🙄
(They arent that chonker..its the distortion..i swear..)


IMG_5261.jpeg
 
I've been running sensitivity at 1 for a while , but decided to give 10 a go... And I couldn't notice a huge difference?? I think it felt a little bit less sharp at 10, with a slightly mushy feel. Is 1 more sensitive than 10?

I only tried on the tracks for B and C so not a good representation possibly as I don't like either of them. When I get some days off I'll try again on a more likeable track...

i’m using the DDpro 8nm and I started w 1 as originally recommended by Fanatec and lately switched to 10 as others have suggested. But could not really say how it was much different and have wondered about what this setting does.

In some games control sensitivity is sort of an amplifier setting, increasing output for a given input. On the wheel sensitivity is setting rotation, how much is needed for full lock, so similar, increasing apparent steering speed.

After some search and testing, it seems to me that in gt7 sensitivity has a similar but a bit more subtle meaning. I think this setting is controlling how quickly the system reacts to a given input such as a steering movement, and also how quickly FFB responds to a simulation input, such as chassis movement.

It feels slightly quicker and more precise for wheel input the higher the setting, but also less time to react to wheel output. You won’t notice this much with slower and more measured steering inputs though and its not changing the steering ratio like wheel sensitivity so overall steering doesn’t change. Likely also somewhat car choice dependent as well. Wheel weight or bigger will also affect feel due to inertia - I used my F1 wheel to test - run higher for a heavier wheel, down a notch or so for a lighter one?

On track I was overall faster with the higher settings, but seemed a bit more likely to make errors so a bit less consitent when being at the most aggresive. BTW I saw one claim that you needed to exit the track back to the start screen for the setting change to load properly so that’s what I did, but can’t confirm its not or no longer reqd.

One way to maybe get a sense for how the setting difference feels is to use a high torque car that can break loose. I used a GT3 car with RH tires. Come to a stop and do a full throttle 180 flick turn. I notice a difference in steering input to initiate and to recover. A low setting feels just slightly slower needing a bit more steering input while a high setting needs a quicker and smaller input to initiate and recover. So a more narrow and precise range for input/output is my impression but not any overall massive change in feel. The setting may alter other effects like road feel, curbs etc, but pretty hard to really tell IMO
 
I need to find a good compromise in height between the wheels, in any case thank you for your answer!
Oh! I'm sorry. I misunderstood. OK. Height! So, I happen to have the same wheels as you. F1 and BMW GT2 V2. So, I don't have that issue with my set up because the 65" inch TV I use is mounted slightly higher than mid level, so I don't need to raise or lower my set up. As far as distance from the wheel, I have a seat slider that I adjust depending on the wheel shaft length. Did you mount a seat slider on your rig?
 
I bought mine on eBay, people sell them with all the mounts and bolts included. Sorry I guess I should have said where I git it.
I ordered mine from eBay as well and everything is certainly included. No instructions though. Took me a few tries to get it right. I didn't look at pictures. 😂😂😂
 
FMW
Oh! I'm sorry. I misunderstood. OK. Height! So, I happen to have the same wheels as you. F1 and BMW GT2 V2. So, I don't have that issue with my set up because the 65" inch TV I use is mounted slightly higher than mid level, so I don't need to raise or lower my set up. As far as distance from the wheel, I have a seat slider that I adjust depending on the wheel shaft length. Did you mount a seat slider on your rig?
yes I have a slider on my seat but when you move the seat afterwards it is the position of the pedals which is no longer ideal!
 
Me again, with another little problem/query!
Shortly after starting up my wheel (GT DD) would show the Fanatec 'F' on the display but I can't remember the last time I saw it.
I did update the firmware in everything recently (when I had my last little problem) so I would take a guess that it has been like it since then.
When I race the display comes to life.... speed, gear, shift lights etc., all normal.
It's just the 'F' that i haven't seen in a while!
Anyone else have this issue?

I was at Barcelona and had a very quick go of the DD+, and it felt very nice.... but although someone told me there was one there, I didn't see the new wheel!
Thank you for the info, and I also realised i posted this in the wrong thread!
I double checked and I'm definitely not getting the 'F'
I do get the S/N and Firmware version flash up but before and after that it's blank!
Then when I'm in a race I get the speed/shift and shift lights etc.

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Edit 09/01

I posted that ^^^ in the wrong thread, so I've moved it!
The 'F' on my display is definitely missing, although it does show briefly, very briefly!
I updated firmware yesterday, wheel base and QR1 were out of date, everything else was up to date.
I was hoping the 'F' would reappear and display as it should after updating - it doesn't!
So, when I switch the wheel on the 'F' does show for like a split second directly before the S/N and Firmware version shows, and than the display goes blank. No 'F'

It's bugging me.....

Does anyone know if it's possible to do a factory reset on the wheel - I'm guessing it's the wheel, and not the base?
 
Thank you for the info, and I also realised i posted this in the wrong thread!
I double checked and I'm definitely not getting the 'F'
I do get the S/N and Firmware version flash up but before and after that it's blank!
Then when I'm in a race I get the speed/shift and shift lights etc.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edit 09/01

I posted that ^^^ in the wrong thread, so I've moved it!
The 'F' on my display is definitely missing, although it does show briefly, very briefly!
I updated firmware yesterday, wheel base and QR1 were out of date, everything else was up to date.
I was hoping the 'F' would reappear and display as it should after updating - it doesn't!
So, when I switch the wheel on the 'F' does show for like a split second directly before the S/N and Firmware version shows, and than the display goes blank. No 'F'

It's bugging me.....

Does anyone know if it's possible to do a factory reset on the wheel - I'm guessing it's the wheel, and not the base?

As far as I know the F is only supposed to appear briefly, mine is the same.
 
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