Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread

  • Thread starter super_gt
  • 3,718 comments
  • 520,956 views
If you're talking about Gt Sport then that happens with all wheels and brake peddles im afraid. It's an issue with how they coded the car strangely. Possibly something to do with its kers system. Touch the brake a little and it cuts throttle input. Infuriating when you keep trying to trail brake

Aha.. I must have somehow forgotten about it then. Haven't driven that car for a long time in GTS. Thanks :) And yeah, somewhat irritating.
 
Just out of curiosity what is the benefit of adding a deadzone?

If you drive cars where you left foot brake, and like to be able to lightly rest your foot on the brake pedal, you can add a small deadzone to the pedal to make sure you aren't braking when your foot is resting on the pedal. I prefer to add a deadzone because most road cars actually have this due to the way brake boosters work. I prefer brake force to begin more with more pedal pressure because it feels a little more like a real brake pedal for me.

Brake pedal travel really is personal preference, but with a good LC brake pedal I don't really feel like I need very much brake pedal travel as it is still easy to control, so I use pretty mineral travel on mine.

You do this in the Fanatec Properties but turning off the auto pedal calibration and then you can manually adjust the Min and Max range of each.
 
Just figured I'd comment after using the DD1 for awhile. So far I'm loving it. It just completely disappears when I'm in VR and feels like I'm working with a real steering setup. Been able to be much more consistent and any errors have definitely gone way down. Combined with the updated VR headsets and a good rig, it's just too much fun. I can take any car on any track without any practice and get competitive lap times within 10 laps just by the feel through the wheel. That level of preciseness just helps you feel the grip levels in a way that you can't really get consistently with a belt/gear setup. It's hard to explain, but once you get into the rhythm with it you can just lean into the FFB and put together good laps. Add all of that with the ease of setup and use that Fanatec brings to the table over the other options and it just seems like a great package. Very happy with it.

I'll be using the DD1 and Heusinkveld Sprints for a very long time.
 
Nice
I really can’t get used to VR in sim racing. I have tried for a long while and I just can’t, every other VR game I really enjoy a lot.

I bought the rift CV1, rift S and now the Vive index and still no, so I finally gave up and went with triples 1080 @ 144Hz
 
Yeah I definitely have to say that with time I've come to appreciate the DD even more. It's just superior to anything else that's not direct drive.

But, (there's always a but) for those who have the formula rims, how do you feel about the ergonomics of it? Because my wrists are hurting when I play for extended periods and I can't decide whether it's just because of the increased power or if it might have something to do with the ergonomics or both.

In the beginning I was convinced that it was just the power and that over time I would adapt, but that only seems to be partially true. I never had any issue like this with the T500 Ferrari rim, which is a replica of a real F1 rim.
 
Same as F1Aussie; DD1 with the f1 2018 LE rim, APM. I've had no wrist issues.

However, when I tried using the DD1 at 100% FFB my arms got really tired/sore ;D
 
Thanks for the feedback. I'm wondering if maybe I should try adjusting the angle of the base instead then.

Yeah I would try adjusting your steering wheel position a bit if possible. Will probably just need to use some trial and error to find a position that works best for you.
 
I've been spending the last week adjusting my rig to finalize the position of everything, and even a few mm can make a massive difference in terms of feel and ergonomics. I think people really overlook just how important your positioning is in terms of getting a good feel for the wheel. I've been finding a surprising amount of time just by getting my rig more comfortable for me.

I've only used a formula wheel so far and have been really enjoying it. I do miss a standard wheel for those big moments where I go to grab for one, but otherwise its fantastic. I would be interested in trying out one that's a bit wider. I was planning on getting the new Porsche wheel they showed off awhile ago as my next one, but the price tag with all the parts you need scares me.
 
Last edited:
I've been spending the last week adjusting my rig to finalize the position of everything, and even a few mm can make a massive difference in terms of feel and ergonomics. I think people really overlook just how important your positioning is in terms of getting a good feel for the wheel. I've been finding a surprising amount of time just by getting my rig more comfortable for me.

I've only used a formula wheel so far and have been really enjoying it. I do miss a standard wheel for those big moments where I go to grab for one, but otherwise its fantastic. I would be interested in trying out one that's a bit wider. I was planning on getting the new Porsche wheel they showed off awhile ago as my next one, but the price tag with all the parts you need scares me.

Yeah I am patiently waiting for the Podium hub to be released to allow for more steering wheel options. I have been using my CSL Elite PS4 steering wheel as well with the Podium in Low Torque mode and it still feels great and works great, but would love to be able to use that size of wheel with proper full high torque mode.
 
Hey everyone, I've experienced an issue recently with F1 2019. During a race the buttons and paddles on my 2018 formula rim cuts out, except for the steering which still functions.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Thanks.

EDIT: Btw, I can fix the issue by turning off my DD2 and starting it up again.
 
Last edited:
Sorry for a silly question but I just received a DD2, and I keep hearing about this CSW v2.5 mode throughout this thread. Can some direct me to an explanation?
 
It is used for games that dont properly recognize the DD1/2 in PC mode. One example is F1 2018.

The top left of the LCD on the base will say what mod you're in. To find out how to change your mode, you need to read the manual for the wheel rim you have. in my case with the f1 2018 LE rim, it's the bottom left button (button nearest to the bottom of the left handle) and the left of the three buttons on the top right.

Edit: I just realized I made a mistake. It isn't the left of the three top right buttons, it is the center of the three top right buttons!!
 
Last edited:
Like any hobbies really, cyclists spend thousands shaving grams off their bikes, racers spend thousands on that last couple of hp, etc. gamers spend 100x in time just to go from the 90% on leaderboards to the 99% and are still thousands of players ahead of them.

When you’re at the top 80% of options, the last 20% is 10x the invest of the first 80%... when you reach it, only then do you realize it’s still not 100%... suddenly button boxes and motion platforms become important... and it never really ends... something new is always being introduced.
 
One thing I do like though, is a good chassis is only a one time purchase that you get to enjoy with every new sim for many many years to come.

My chassis has lasted since 2011... DD sort of works, but I could really use an 80/20 rig now for a more solid DD platform, and that thing will last forever. Makes the cost of them not seem so bad.
 
Like any hobbies really, cyclists spend thousands shaving grams off their bikes, racers spend thousands on that last couple of hp, etc. gamers spend 100x in time just to go from the 90% on leaderboards to the 99% and are still thousands of players ahead of them.

When you’re at the top 80% of options, the last 20% is 10x the invest of the first 80%... when you reach it, only then do you realize it’s still not 100%... suddenly button boxes and motion platforms become important... and it never really ends... something new is always being introduced.

I'm both a cyclist and a sim racing enthusiast. Both of my interests are sucking me completely dry, because the pace of technology is getting faster. The gap between "entry level" and "top of the range" products is getting wider, and so is the difference in price.
 
I'm both a cyclist and a sim racing enthusiast. Both of my interests are sucking me completely dry, because the pace of technology is getting faster. The gap between "entry level" and "top of the range" products is getting wider, and so is the difference in price.
I’ll trade you your cycling hobby for my auto racing one...
 
Like any hobbies really, cyclists spend thousands shaving grams off their bikes, racers spend thousands on that last couple of hp, etc. gamers spend 100x in time just to go from the 90% on leaderboards to the 99% and are still thousands of players ahead of them.

When you’re at the top 80% of options, the last 20% is 10x the invest of the first 80%... when you reach it, only then do you realize it’s still not 100%... suddenly button boxes and motion platforms become important... and it never really ends... something new is always being introduced.
Indeed and it is hard to not get carried away. Luckily for me, I don't like spending money.
 
We all know it doesn’t
The faster sim racers are using Logitech wheels with very little or no ffb at all. We all spend the crazy amounts of money in high end gear for the better immersion it will give you not for the seconds you will be shaving off your lap times

I agree to a point, however the fastest sim racers are by definition the exception and not the norm. My own experience and opinion is that for the average serious sim racer who is competent, higher level gear will most certainly result in improved times - not necessarily because one can lap faster than their previous best, but because they can be more consistent, dramatically reduce their error rate and critically look after their tyres better thanks to the greater feedback detail delivered with higher end gear.
 
Hey everyone, I've experienced an issue recently with F1 2019. During a race the buttons and paddles on my 2018 formula rim cuts out, except for the steering which still functions.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Thanks.

EDIT: Btw, I can fix the issue by turning off my DD2 and starting it up again.

Hey any chance anyone is experiencing this same issue with F1 2019? It's still occurring for me. I don't want to have to reboot my DD every time it happens.
 
Sorry for a silly question but I just received a DD2, and I keep hearing about this CSW v2.5 mode throughout this thread. Can some direct me to an explanation?

Hello

Is there any reason why you didn't go for the ps4 dd1, besides the power difference?
 
Last edited:
Hey everyone, I've experienced an issue recently with F1 2019. During a race the buttons and paddles on my 2018 formula rim cuts out, except for the steering which still functions.

Has anyone experienced this issue? Thanks.

EDIT: Btw, I can fix the issue by turning off my DD2 and starting it up again.
Read My post #3147 - I had the same problem. I had to send my Wheel set in to be repaired. Fanatec replaced it with a new Set. I just received the replacement yesterday.
 
Last edited:

Latest Posts

Back