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Discussion in 'Sim Racing Hardware' started by super_gt, Sep 14, 2017.
hello, I have tried with no success to validate the high torque, my wheel is the Podium Racing Wheel F1 with the driver V 335 64 bits installed
Uninstall the driver, download beta driver 344, install it and flash the firmware of the Base. Then you can accept the Torque message with any button or by holding the wheel 90° to the right. With the old driver and firmware combo you would need to press the funky switch in as that's the only button which can accept the message on the old software.
Now it is working, thank you very much for your help !
A little note: the locking ring should be put in revers!
For those interested: Fanalab 1.08 Beta and the manual is available via the official Fanatec site: https://www.fanatec.com/eu-en/wheel...net&utm_campaign=General+Links&a_aid=gtplanet
PS I also created a separate thread for this Fanalab SW on this forum https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/fanalab-beta-available.389641/#post-12858875
I've also posted an intro here:
Hello, I have tried for my DD1 the FANATEC settings for iRACING there are way too strong for my taste any advice for the settings for this game ?
Turn it down if to strong, turn it up if to weak...
It's all up to you and your likings.
Everyone will tell you different things.
There is no perfect setup.
Find your own sweetspot!
Thank you for your advice, for iRACING where should I lower the FF on the in-game menu or on the Podium wheel or both?
If you turn down the strength, you might also want to lower natural damper a bit as well so it won't get proportionally too strong and drown out detail.
You mean the settings on the podium wheel ?
The Myth - on a dd you got awesome details.
The Reality - if the game have poor ffb, the output from a dd is also poor. It cant turn **** into gold
Its not a miracle magic box that makes feel granturismo like driving a real car )
A dd deliver the signals from game like any other wheel.
Its just faster and stronger
But, you can adjust things to make it feels better to your personal preferences.
Things i always have turned off on the dd1, spring, damper & natural friction.
Natural damper depends on game, i set it low as possible(min 7 max 15), just enought so the rim dosnt start shaking up its own.
Natural friction and natural damper are the 2 settings what impact the most on feel. If you set them to high they eat all output and ffb feels numb.
And ffb intensity soften the ffb signal too. 100 is stock, the lower you set the softer the ffb effects will become, you lost almost eventhing if setting this below 80. In some cases this helps from violent or too crisp details, like the disgusting understeer rattle effect in GT-S.
Thanks for confirming what I already thought.
Here's a question though: which would feel more real? ACC/rF2 with Logitech G25/27/29 or GT Sport with Fanatec DD?
On every Logitech you feel just hold cheap plastic toy! Even Fanatec CSR wheel which is old product outperform those by a mile! That doesnt mean that you cant be world fastest guy having G27 - it means what I said - it is cheap toy!
I'm not talking about material quality. It's obvious Logitech can't compete with TM/Fanatec.
Purely from a driving & FFB standpoint, does Fanatec DD make GTS feel more real than ACC with Logitech?
I understood you and talking for the same, for the feeling, not for the materials themself... for example on PS3 all Fanatecs are seen as G25 in their PS3 mode... so the FFB output is like for real Logitech wheel... but belt driven fanatecs are much much better in hands there....also having on the fly settings give huge advantage especially in consoles where we dont have much to setup for our wheels... In general when you try any DD wheel - you will see what I mean
The g29 is able to output arround 2nm, thats practical nothing.
The dd1 outputs 20nm, it reaches forces like in real life and even stronger.
So the dd1 feels more real in gt-s then the g29 in acc. Just from point of feel. The ffb itself is 2 diffrent worlds, ACC do simulate much more, so you will feel much more. Dosnt matter what game you play, with the g29 you will always have crap results because its simply to weak for anything, it cant even turn itself fast enought.
For me realism is more than just force. I had the lucky opportunity to drive a race prepped V8 Commodore on slicks around a track recently and while the g-forces are enough to rearrange your organs, the steering force itself is actually quite light and easy to turn.
I have a T-GT and for me while I do notice the smaller FFB details better with it, I find myself turning down the Gain for a lot of games until it's almost equivalent with my old G25. For me playing ACC with G25 definitely is more realistic than GTS with T-GT. About the only thing T-GT does better is heat tolerance (FFB doesn't fade with time) and virtually no center deadzone. It's just weird because I must be the only person who prefers the cheaper and older wheel
I just don't want to fall into the same trap buying DD wheels and only getting incremental improvements in my enjoyment because those things cost a fortune.
A DD wheel is not suddenly going to make crap FFB magically better. However, what a DD wheel will do is give much more representative forces you would feel on the steering rack and most importantly it will deliver those forces with a much faster speed than a wheel like the G25 can deliver. This is important because you feel what the car is doing much more quickly which means your reaction times to correct the car are much faster. And with zero slop on a DD wheel that you get in a gear or even belt driven wheel your inputs can be more precise and more reactive.
The big thing that a lot of people bang on about with DD is power when in reality the main benefits are precision, speed and lack of slop. I run my DD1 at only 40% but still feel the benefits over my CSW V2. Thinking back to the days when I had a G25 and a wheel like that doesn't compare to my DD1 is so many different areas.
When I first got my DD1 there were two things that stood out to me, firstly how quick the inputs respond and secondly how when going over kerbs you could almost count each vibration from the individual teeth on the kerb.
What exact quality do you prefer in the G25 over T-GT?
I personally like how little friction the G29 has compared to T150(has terribly big friction)/T300 and T-GT. The DD wheels has even less friction then G29.
I think it was more about the game he was using with the G25 . I honestly don't think there's any point at all of him comparing one wheel with ACC and the other with GT Sport.
Today someone know?
As described in the manual you can press the tuning menu button and D-Pad down to go into System Info Screen which shows you the installed firmwares and the running time of the Base.
Yes, i know. i mean the overall operating hours.