Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread

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Wow - i actually didn't realize that - I guess hopefully when the new Fanatec software drops we won't have to update our settings every time we upgrade the firmware. Also are there any plans to let us label the 5 setups on the wheelbase - iracing, ACC, etc ?
 
JoshKM
Wow - i actually didn't realize that - I guess hopefully when the new Fanatec software drops we won't have to update our settings every time we upgrade the firmware. Also are there any plans to let us label the 5 setups on the wheelbase - iracing, ACC, etc ?
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R&D is aware of this request but it's not in our immediate plans.
 
Yeah it would be awesome Dom - especially if you have 5 presets going ... I assume this will all get easier once the Fanatec software drops and takes us out of the stone ages in terms of manually programming everything.
 
JoshKM
Wow - i actually didn't realize that - I guess hopefully when the new Fanatec software drops we won't have to update our settings every time we upgrade the firmware. Also are there any plans to let us label the 5 setups on the wheelbase - iracing, ACC, etc ?
Click to expand...
Best way to do this is to take a quick vid on your phone of you scrolling through all the presets. Means you don't need to worry about a piece of paper going missing!
 
Haha yeah I know it's easy to either write it down or memorize it but it seems like a no brainer for a $ 1000-1500 wheelbase with an OLED display to read iRacing / F1 / ACC etc.
 
Does anyone here use their new DD1/DD2 with a RS1 rig? That’s the rig I currently have and I’m wondering if the direct drive wheel torque is going to be enough to vibrate the wheel deck since the RS1 only uses a single support arm. I know it’s a very sturdy steel arm, but the wheel will be able to put a lot of leverage on the wheel deck. I’ve seen a YouTube video of a guy using a 30nm wheel at full force that does vibrate the mount, but I am curious if the 15-20 in the DD1 will (I ordered the PS4/PC DD1). I doubt I will race at full torque, but I am just curious where the line is where you start noticing vibration, or if there is none at all.

On one hand I don’t want to replace my rig as I’m pretty happy with it, but then again.....a nice new SimLab rig wouldn’t be the worst thing either. :D
 
BadFlounder
Does anyone here use their new DD1/DD2 with a RS1 rig? That’s the rig I currently have and I’m wondering if the direct drive wheel torque is going to be enough to vibrate the wheel deck since the RS1 only uses a single support arm. I know it’s a very sturdy steel arm, but the wheel will be able to put a lot of leverage on the wheel deck. I’ve seen a YouTube video of a guy using a 30nm wheel at full force that does vibrate the mount, but I am curious if the 15-20 in the DD1 will (I ordered the PS4/PC DD1). I doubt I will race at full torque, but I am just curious where the line is where you start noticing vibration, or if there is none at all.

On one hand I don’t want to replace my rig as I’m pretty happy with it, but then again.....a nice new SimLab rig wouldn’t be the worst thing either. :D
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Shawn Cole has the RSeat S1 chassis and DD2

 
JoshKM
On iRacing do you set sensitivity to 108 or 1080? On the Fanatec page it says: SEN 108 (1080 degrees)
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They are the same thing !! Most of the wheels only show three digits so anything over 999 you have to add a zero.

CJ
 
Does anyone know whether the rev LEDs work in iRacing if you put it in CSW mode? I'd try it myself, but I'm not sure whether that means I'll have to calibrate and assign buttons again. And is there any game in which the flag LEDs work? I was thinking iRacing would be the one that would be most likely to have implemented the Fanatec SDK. The upper paddles in the advanced shifter module don't seem to work either. I tried assigning DRS to one of them, but no button press was detected. Perhaps you could shed some light on this @DomB_Fanatec ?
 
bjosim
Does anyone know whether the rev LEDs work in iRacing if you put it in CSW mode? I'd try it myself, but I'm not sure whether that means I'll have to calibrate and assign buttons again. And is there any game in which the flag LEDs work? I was thinking iRacing would be the one that would be most likely to have implemented the Fanatec SDK. The upper paddles in the advanced shifter module don't seem to work either. I tried assigning DRS to one of them, but no button press was detected. Perhaps you could shed some light on this @DomB_Fanatec ?
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Upper APM buttons don't work because iRacing doesn't support enough buttons, David Tucker already said he is working on doubling the possible buttons per device but no ETA.
RevLEDs work in Compatibility mode, yes. Flagleds however are only supported natively by Raceroom yet.
 
$250 for the brackets lol
Are they made of real gold?

Also people with the DD2s were saying the kill switch was cheaply made and worth $10 at most
what’s up with that ridiculous price?
 
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Have to admit, I searched for "gold plated" and "diamonds" on the product page when I saw that price for the brackets. :p
I suppose they could be sold as decorative pieces though when you're done with them. :lol:
 
The price on the brackets are not bad, you're talking two large heavily machined pieces that they designed not only to fit their own rig but the universal 8020 with built-in adjustability.

The switch (I have the DD2) housing feels a little cheap, but the switch feels nice plus it has the added ability as a remote on off. I don't have anything to compare to, but I would buy it for $100.00 and I don't have to do a reach around to turn it on...

I kinda thought the switch would be around $100 when I was deciding between a DD1 or DD2
DD1 - 999.99
Kill Switch - 100 + Shipping
Additional 3 Year Warrant - 299.99
Total 1400.00

DD2 - 1499.99

That $100 saving of having to wait for the kill switch and wait to finish my wiring was not worth it...
 
I like this admission from the blurb.
Easy reach power button.
The Podium Series Wheel Base power buttons are located at the back of the unit, which can be a challenge to reach with certain rig configurations. The Podium Kill Switch is fitted with a power button that allows the user to turn on and shut down the base with ease.
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Why didn't they just put the power switch in a better position?
 
PzR Slim
I like this admission from the blurb.

Why didn't they just put the power switch in a better position?
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Probably liability, that is the furthest position from a crazed spinning wheel should it get that way. Or, they could have put it behind the wheel would that be fun should the wheel get out of hand.
 
MaxdOut
The price on the brackets are not bad, you're talking two large heavily machined pieces that they designed not only to fit their own rig but the universal 8020 with built-in adjustability.

The switch (I have the DD2) housing feels a little cheap, but the switch feels nice plus it has the added ability as a remote on off. I don't have anything to compare to, but I would buy it for $100.00 and I don't have to do a reach around to turn it on...

I kinda thought the switch would be around $100 when I was deciding between a DD1 or DD2
DD1 - 999.99
Kill Switch - 100 + Shipping
Additional 3 Year Warrant - 299.99
Total 1400.00

DD2 - 1499.99

That $100 saving of having to wait for the kill switch and wait to finish my wiring was not worth it...
Click to expand...
Brackets are way to expensive and not only that look at how they mount to 8020, very ugly solution
 
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