Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread

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If you don't like the clamping solution you can use front-mounted T-slot nuts too.
Perhaps it is not a bad idea to add such a change in design for more easily attachment with T-slot nuts:


P_MB_large2-1000x666.jpg
 
I've seen comments claiming that it looks like it will slip. It's surprising that your reaction is so strong, considering how inelegant most aluminium profile rigs look in general. I'd go as far as saying these brackets will be the coolest looking structural parts of most rigs of this type. But I guess you can't please everyone! :)
It won’t slip but it will mark the aluminum since it’s squared, the brackets do look good in gold but the bolts look just ugly but since you don’t need them it’s not something to talk about anymore
 
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I think Dom meant the bolt would go at the very end, where the existing bolt goes through. No design changes, and nothing "ugly" sticking out past the uprights. They still need the bolt holes at the end for mounting on the Rennsport so no point in drilling more holes.
 
@DomB_Fanatec
Have you guys figured out why so many DD1s are dying due to the problems with the rear power button?
There are a lot of people in the Fanatec reddit and other racing forums saying they had to send their bases in to get a new one due to the power button failure.
If its the power button itself that's the problem will everyone get the kill switch to prevent the failure since it seems that none of the DD2s are being affected by this issue and they are the only ones with the kill switch right now
 
It won’t slip but it will mark the aluminum since it’s squared, the brackets do look good in gold but the bolts look just ugly but since you don’t need them it’s not something to talk about anymore

you know you dont have to buy it right.
and sense you dont own it why are bitching about it
 
@DomB_Fanatec
Have you guys figured out why so many DD1s are dying due to the problems with the rear power button?
There are a lot of people in the Fanatec reddit and other racing forums saying they had to send their bases in to get a new one due to the power button failure.
If its the power button itself that's the problem will everyone get the kill switch to prevent the failure since it seems that none of the DD2s are being affected by this issue and they are the only ones with the kill switch right now
Got the links? Interested in reading about these since I have not heard of many....
 


My DD1 is sent back to fanatec as well having the power button issue.


This is very unfortunate. My apologies. Rest assured we will fix or exchange your wheel super fast.

The power button issue is ironically caused by an additional quality test. The test apparantly damaged some of the units and we were not able to filter all those units out. So far there are just a few affected units but as everybody is concerned about quality, all these defectives will be reported on the internet.
Please keep in mind that this is the biggest launch of any DD ever made and that the quantities are very high in comparison to other DDs on the market so the actual failure rate is still extremely low.

Of course we solved this issue for all future batches.
 
This is very unfortunate. My apologies. Rest assured we will fix or exchange your wheel super fast.

The power button issue is ironically caused by an additional quality test. The test apparantly damaged some of the units and we were not able to filter all those units out. So far there are just a few affected units but as everybody is concerned about quality, all these defectives will be reported on the internet.
Please keep in mind that this is the biggest launch of any DD ever made and that the quantities are very high in comparison to other DDs on the market so the actual failure rate is still extremely low.

Of course we solved this issue for all future batches.

Glad to see the issue has been identified and addressed already.
 
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We'll update the product page with an image of this. I'm honestly a little surprised at the reaction, I've been using a prototype on my home rig for some time and I think it looks cool being clamped around the outside in this fashion. Absolutely no chance of it slipping either, those things aren't going anywhere.

People just love to speculate their brains out for now reason. Everyone on the internet loves to do text based engineering assessments of things they know nothing about don't they.


Podium hub looks so damn good. I really really want to mount up the exact same Momo Monte Carlo I have installed on my S2000.

I have this issue as well. For now I think the best option is to compress the dynamic range by increasing FFB gain in the in-game settings and lowering the FFB on the base. According to Dom the AC FFB starts to behave a bit strange if set too high or low so he recommends a max setting of 75% in-game. I'm open to suggestions if anyone else has some tips on how to achieve good feel in low-speed corners while not being too strong in high speed.

No feel at low speed in a formula car is accurate behavior haha.

I know what he meant, but in my opinion, mounting the Podium brackets in this way will not be strong enough.

Everyone has opinions don't they.
 
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This is very unfortunate. My apologies. Rest assured we will fix or exchange your wheel super fast.

The power button issue is ironically caused by an additional quality test. The test apparantly damaged some of the units and we were not able to filter all those units out. So far there are just a few affected units but as everybody is concerned about quality, all these defectives will be reported on the internet.
Please keep in mind that this is the biggest launch of any DD ever made and that the quantities are very high in comparison to other DDs on the market so the actual failure rate is still extremely low.

Of course we solved this issue for all future batches.

No harm done, Fanatec support has been handling my issue promptly and professionally.
 
Am I the only guy whose wrists are hurting? Never experienced this with my T500 F1 add-on wheel even though I sometimes played all day there as well. Is it most likely due to increased strength or might it be due to the wheel being at a less than optimal angle, what do you guys think?

[For those using the F1 wheel, of course]
 
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Hey fellow dd1 owners, when you boot up your base does the wheel rim spin around to calibrate every time? Mine never does but is calibrated and works fine. I'm just not sure what the norm is here.
Cheers
 
Hey fellow dd1 owners, when you boot up your base does the wheel rim spin around to calibrate every time? Mine never does but is calibrated and works fine. I'm just not sure what the norm is here.
Cheers
There are two possible scenarios: the wheel either calibrates by turning around 30° to the right and then back to center or by turning a full round to the right. Both scenarios can happen and vary from base to base.
 
@Fanatec... Do you have any idea how many units were adversely affected by this test, either in number or %?
Is there a timeframe that you would expect them to fail in?
Are you actually able to disclose what the test was and how it impacted the units? I am just genuinely Interested.
Cheers

There are two possible scenarios: the wheel either calibrates by turning around 30° to the right and then back to center or by turning a full round to the right. Both scenarios can happen and vary from base to base.
Mine doesnt do either, it did initially turn 30 to the right but it hasn't since it had been calibrated but it works perfectly.
 
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Mine also about 30 degrees to the right and then back to center.

Yesterday evening and today a couple of hours setup, testing several racesims and above all enjoying the DD1.
 
@Fanatec... Do you have any idea how many units were adversely affected by this test, either in number or %?
Is there a timeframe that you would expect them to fail in?
Are you actually able to disclose what the test was and how it impacted the units? I am just genuinely Interested.
Cheers


Mine doesnt do either, it did initially turn 30 to the right but it hasn't since it had been calibrated but it works perfectly.

I doubt anyone from Fanatec will tell us how many died or how many will die in the future since it could damage the company.
Since I read about all this issues I went ahead and order the kill switch to see if that helps against this particular issue, I didn’t want to spend $100 on something that should be no more than 50 at most but all this problems made me do it, I should get it Tuesday and see if it solves the power button issue.
 
I am planning to fix my DD1 wheel on the Fanatec table clamp, but it is flat with no angle. I was wondering if it is possible to use the angle adapter of the CSW 2.5?

If so, could I order it as a spare part?
 
There are two possible scenarios: the wheel either calibrates by turning around 30° to the right and then back to center or by turning a full round to the right. Both scenarios can happen and vary from base to base.
Mine (dd1) does just the 30 to the right then returns to the center.

Touch wood, everything is working perfect - My two rims Macca Gt3 & formula V2 are both very tight to get on and need a firm shove to fully locate but this doesn't cause me any due concern.

What I find surprising is how quiet both the base & psu are, no heat either - perhaps I'm not working them hard enough..... The last 3 days have been rFactor 2 days - I'm starting to find AC a bit lacking, rF2 shows off the podium so much better.
 
Am I the only guy whose wrists are hurting? Never experienced this with my T500 F1 add-on wheel even though I sometimes played all day there as well. Is it most likely due to increased strength or might it be due to the wheel being at a less than optimal angle, what do you guys think?

[For those using the F1 wheel, of course]
Yes!!! The F1 wheel puts strain on my wrists. Im using the Fanatec Flat rim with the Uni Hub now. Much better!!
 
I doubt anyone from Fanatec will tell us how many died or how many will die in the future since it could damage the company.
Since I read about all this issues I went ahead and order the kill switch to see if that helps against this particular issue, I didn’t want to spend $100 on something that should be no more than 50 at most but all this problems made me do it, I should get it Tuesday and see if it solves the power button issue.

Why would it solve the power button issue?
 
I would rather have the switch fail and get it replaced by one that wont rather than try and protect it just in case it may fail outside of the warranty period
 
I doubt anyone from Fanatec will tell us how many died or how many will die in the future since it could damage the company.
Since I read about all this issues I went ahead and order the kill switch to see if that helps against this particular issue, I didn’t want to spend $100 on something that should be no more than 50 at most but all this problems made me do it, I should get it Tuesday and see if it solves the power button issue.

You never know, thought it was worth a try.
 
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