Fanatec Podium Direct Drive Wheel Bases Thread

  • Thread starter super_gt
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andrewhake
Yeah makes sense just low torque and high torque mode.

Fanatec has literally said the torque is the same as CSW v2.5 in low torque mode, not sure what makes you guys think it is more than tha. It might feel different because it isn't belt driven, but there is nothing to indicate it is more torque than v2.5. And there is nothing to indicate the OLED isn't displaying "real" torque as you mentioned. It is likely an internal sensor right on the motor shaft. Of course the motor can know exactly how much torque it is outputting. Why wouldn't it?
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Nope, Fanatec always said it's slightly higher than CSW v2.5 ;) so higher than 8Nm and therefore the 9-10Nm Peaks which the OLED shows seem to be accurate but and no there is no Torque meter build into the Base.
 
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andrewhake
Yeah makes sense just low torque and high torque mode.

Fanatec has literally said the torque is the same as CSW v2.5 in low torque mode, not sure what makes you guys think it is more than tha. It might feel different because it isn't belt driven, but there is nothing to indicate it is more torque than v2.5. And there is nothing to indicate the OLED isn't displaying "real" torque as you mentioned. It is likely an internal sensor right on the motor shaft. Of course the motor can know exactly how much torque it is outputting. Why wouldn't it?
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So, if I choose the recommended fanatec settings for the different games it would be the CSW v2.5 ?
 
kgb27r
So, if I choose the recommended fanatec settings for the different games it would be the CSW v2.5 ?
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The recommended settings from Fanatec are targeted WITH the Torque Key inserted. Without the Torque Key you will be limited to slightly above CSW v2.5 level as just described but you need to change your FFB settings and you can't just use the recommended ones from Fanatec.
 
kgb27r
So, if I choose the recommended fanatec settings for the different games it would be the CSW v2.5 ?
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From what I understand you want to use Fanatec recommended settings for CSW V2.5 with DD1 or 2 without the Torque Key inserted.
You can try but keep in mind that the drive mechanism of these two wheels is completely different and CSW V2.5 does not have NFR setting and NAT DMP setting in CSW V2.5 is called DRI, and damper is applied from -5 to -1, OFF means that demper is not applied.
 
super_gt
From what I understand you want to use Fanatec recommended settings for CSW V2.5 with DD1 or 2 without the Torque Key inserted.
You can try but keep in mind that the drive mechanism of these two wheels is completely different and CSW V2.5 does not have NFR setting and NAT DMP setting in CSW V2.5 is called DRI, and damper is applied from -5 to -1, OFF means that demper is not applied.
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Thank you, so if I understand well without the torque inserted I apply the Fanatec settings for the DD1 with a Torque value higher?
 
kgb27r
Thank you, so if I understand well without the torque inserted I apply the Fanatec settings for the DD1 with a Torque value higher?
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In most of our recommended settings for the Podium bases, the FF value is not maxed out, so you can certainly turn this value up.
 
Johnny Custom
I'm having a problem with my DD1 PS4 wheel set. I've had it since the first week of June. It's been fine since then.
A few days ago during races the shifter pedals would stop sending a shift signal when a crash or strong force feed back event happened in a race.
Then I discovered that when this problem was happening that not only the pedal shifters stopped working but none of the buttons on the steering wheel were functioning.
I would need to shut down the Base and restart it to get the steering wheel buttons to work.
But later I discovered that if I just bump the steering with my hand a couple of times it would fix the problem.

So my thinking is that something must be loose in the steering wheel or the Base.

I contacted Fanatec and received a reply saying - "We are looking into problems like this and we think it can be fixed with a Firm ware update."
Now - I'm thinking that if it was caused by the firm ware the problem would have been happening all along - but this just started a few days ago.

Has anyone else had this problem???
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Bump
 
Received mine on June, 19.

Only problem so far is that the wheel „died“ twice during a race:

No more inputs to the wheel work, no buttons, no shifter, no steering. The car gets no more input, coasts and crashes out. Had to switch off and on again and all was fine again, but I‘m certainly concerned...

Those were just lobby races, but I don’t want a FIA race ruined by it, well, it shouldn’t happen in the first place.
 
I’m having a weird thing happening to my DD1. I’m on driver 336 since day one on iRacing. Using Fanatec recommended settings with Only difference is FF is 80. In iRacing. Strength is around 6 and wheel torque set at 20nm. This is recommended by iracing forum as well as Fanatec. With this settings, wheel feels fantastic only thing is it is super heavy during hairpin turns. I’m talking it is so heavy that I have to lean my body to help with turning. I tried a racing in Formula Renault 3.5 with the setting, it is derivable but I end up giving up the race due to sore arms. So I tuned it down a bit more. Same with dirt rally 2 and f1 2019. Now it is the weird thing. Today, nothing changed, only change on my PC is a windows cumulative update. It’s a normal one not a version changing big update kind thing. Suddenly, DD1 becomes lighter, a lot lighter. In all games. I can easily make hairpin turns with only my fingers. The fidelity is still there, the big jolt of power is still there when I hit the wall. The base can still hit 20 plus nm when crashing in iRacing. But the constant holding torque in turns is gone completely. I turned my FF to 100. Increase strength in iRacing and the wheel does become stronger a little but it is completely not normal compared to yesterday. The base is operating around 25 to 35 degree. Fan speed is the same as before. Tried unplug the torque key and put it back again. Base is showing high torque. I tried reinstall drivers and recalibrate motion sensors and re-flash firmware. It is still the same. Now I am on driver 335 with matching firmware. Could it be a hardware issue that I’m losing holding torque? Or a driver issue? Please let me know thanks
 
Just downloaded F1 2019 and have been testing out the DD1. Are you able to run F1 2019 in PC mode or do you still go with CSW 2.5 compatibility mode?

Also has anyone else experienced an issue at the start of races (had it happen during the beginning F2 race in career mode and during multiplayer) where the wheel will violently shake back and forth after holding down the clutch? I currently have the clutch assigned to the upshift paddle but I can reassign it if this is what's calling the issue.
 
Use PC mode. This 100% FFB spike to the right only happens on CSW v2.5 wheel bases and DD Bases using Compatibility Mode as it emulates a CSW v2.5. In PC mode this massive bug luckily is not existing..
 
Received my Podium PS4 wheelbase the other day, and so far it has been working prefectly.
But today I tried connecting my CSL Elite LC pedals, and the wheel base didn't recognize them.

So far I have been using the pedals connected by USB directly to the PC, but I wanted to test the ABS vibration in the wheel, so I figured I should connect them directly to the base. I used the supplied cable, and I am sure I have the pedals plugged into the correct port on the wheel base. But when I turn the wheel base on, the little pedal icon on the OLED display doesn't light up, and there is no pedal input detected on the Function Test driver page.

When disconnecting the pedals from the base and connecting them directly to the PC with USB, they work fine, so the pedals themselves seem fine. I only use the throttle and the brake pedal, there is no clutch pedal connected, but I really doesn't think that should matter.

Another strange thing when the pedals are connected to the wheel base is that the wheel sometimes freezes on startup. It just hangs on the 'Torque Warning' screen, and doesn't respond to inputs. When opening the driver page when the wheel is in this state, the wheel rim is reported as the universal hub, and when I try to close the driver page it crashes... All very strange.

I'll probably have to open a support ticket with Fanatec (I have the video ready ;) ), but before I do that, have anyone here experienced anything similar?
 
T_M
Try updating the wheel base with the pedals attached
Just a suggestion, but it might work
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Already on the latest firmware, but good tip! Will try tomorrow, or possibly wait for the next firmware update as it works 99% fine with USB.

Update: Updated to the latest beta firmware today with pedals attached, but still not working :(
Opened a support ticket, really hope I don't have to send the wheel base back.
 
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torsteinvh
Already on the latest firmware, but good tip! Will try tomorrow, or possibly wait for the next firmware update as it works 99% fine with USB.
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Are you using the correct cable? The one with the ferro-something at the end of it?
 
Yes, used the cable from the Podium box.

Update:
Happy to report that the problem is solved :)
It appears that the cable supplied with the Podium base is faulty.

I tried with both a cheap off-the-shelf RJ12 cable as well as one I made from high quality network cable, and with both of them the Podium base deteced the pedals.

Really happy that nothing seems to be wrong with my Podium base :D

And kudos to Fanatec support. I created the support ticket late wednesday night, and they replied the next day, with friendly, helpful suggestions on how to progress to solve my problem.
 
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Has anyone else noticed a bug with the Mercedes F1 car and the DD's where if you so much as touch the brake the tiniest bit, the engine cuts out? Other cars seem fine though.
 
bjosim
Has anyone else noticed a bug with the Mercedes F1 car and the DD's where if you so much as touch the brake the tiniest bit, the engine cuts out? Other cars seem fine though.
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Overall F1 car acts strange. For me Superformula is almost faster

And when I left foot brake I sometimes press the pedal a bit just by resting on it. I wish there was a deadzone in the wheel settings.
 
Shinu
And when I left foot brake I sometimes press the pedal a bit just by resting on it.
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Yeah that's what I do as well. Just gently rest my foot on it, it doesn't register on the graphics that it's being pressed, but it's somehow still enough that the engine just totally cuts out.
 
Shinu
Overall F1 car acts strange. For me Superformula is almost faster

And when I left foot brake I sometimes press the pedal a bit just by resting on it. I wish there was a deadzone in the wheel settings.
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Can’t you just set the dead zone in the PC?
I did that when I installed the brake performance kit and it saved it to the DD1, it has worked in all games I have played both in consoles and PC and now I can set my foot on it and it never registers
 
LearnersPermit
Can’t you just set the dead zone in the PC?
I did that when I installed the brake performance kit and it saved it to the DD1, it has worked in all games I have played both in consoles and PC and now I can set my foot on it and it never registers
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To my understanding you can't set it if you want to change brake force on the wheel menu. (you have to turn off auto mode)
 
bjosim
Has anyone else noticed a bug with the Mercedes F1 car and the DD's where if you so much as touch the brake the tiniest bit, the engine cuts out? Other cars seem fine though.
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If you're talking about Gt Sport then that happens with all wheels and brake peddles im afraid. It's an issue with how they coded the car strangely. Possibly something to do with its kers system. Touch the brake a little and it cuts throttle input. Infuriating when you keep trying to trail brake
 
Shinu
Overall F1 car acts strange. For me Superformula is almost faster

And when I left foot brake I sometimes press the pedal a bit just by resting on it. I wish there was a deadzone in the wheel settings.
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You can easily setup a deadzone in the Fanatec properties.
 
Shinu
To my understanding you can't set it if you want to change brake force on the wheel menu. (you have to turn off auto mode)
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That I didn’t know , since brake force never worked right for me I went and change it to manual, brake was always too light even at 100%
 

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