FFB Suggestion

[LogiForce]

It makes more and more sense now. That understeer usually ends up turning into snap oversteer which isn't fun in the FA.

The FFB makes sense, but it's different from most if not all FFB systems out there. Hence a lot of players tend to reject it at first. Especially those who played games with a FFB system that leans heavy on using the G forces to give you a weight transfer effect, which gives that unnatural counter push to the car. (which can be added in pCARS with the "Seat of Pants" slider in the car setup FFB section)

In Project CARS it's different. You need to feel that peak of the slip curve move.

I explained it already way before launch here (including a few tests you can do in your own car to compare): https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/physics-thread.304191/page-25#post-10532563


Btw. Snap oversteer? I bet you released the throttle, which with the downforce generated causes a sudden weight transfer forward. The tyre start to bite more at the front, but at the rear the car get lighter. The result is that you loose it.

 

[ozwheels]

The FFB makes sense, but it's different from most if not all FFB systems out there. Hence a lot of players tend to reject it at first. Especially those who played games with a FFB system that leans heavy on using the G forces to give you a weight transfer effect, which gives that unnatural counter push to the car. (which can be added in pCARS with the "Seat of Pants" slider in the car setup FFB section)

In Project CARS it's different. You need to feel that peak of the slip curve move.

I explained it already way before launch here (including a few tests you can do in your own car to compare): https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/physics-thread.304191/page-25#post-10532563


Btw. Snap oversteer? I bet you released the throttle, which with the downforce generated causes a sudden weight transfer forward. The tyre start to bite more at the front, but at the rear the car get lighter. The result is that you loose it.

About the slip-angle build up, is there a setting that will allow the build up to peak grip be more pronounced. I can definitely feel when you've gone too far, but by then it too late.

I do apologize for the million questions you've probably already answered a thousand times. You're clearly knowledgable in this field so I figured you were the person to ask.

 

[LogiForce]

About the slip-angle build up, is there a setting that will allow the build up to peak grip be more pronounced. I can definitely feel when you've gone too far, but by then it too late.

I do apologize for the million questions you've probably already answered a thousand times. You're clearly knowledgable in this field so I figured you were the person to ask.

To be more pronounced? If all is well it should build up to the maximum FFB your wheel can deliver depending on your settings.

I don't know how your wheel feels now, but a good indicator is the FFB monitor on the top left in the telemetry hud. This should almost be at clipping point, else you could try to increase your Master Scale.

Also in the Controller setup menu at the bottom of the list with Deadzones and Sensitivity sliders there's a FFB Strength slider. I don't know how Thrustmaster's console driver's work, but I hear they feel weaker on console than PC. So that means the drivers are at 60% Global Strength (default of the PC drivers), meaning that you should probably increase FFB Strength to 100% if it's not there already.

Also you can dial down Fx Fy and Fz a bit (to stop it from clipping the FFB signal), than add a bit more Mz in the car specific FFB. Mz is the twist motion of the tyre, which is most sensitive to Slip Angle increase and decreases.

Andrew Weber, our Physics guru actually prefers a more Mz centric FFB on weaker wheels than a CSWv2 since this provides him with more information that otherwise would be washed out by the wheel weight (which can quickly overpower low torque FFB motors).

 

[ozwheels]

To be more pronounced? If all is well it should build up to the maximum FFB your wheel can deliver depending on your settings.

I don't know how your wheel feels now, but a good indicator is the FFB monitor on the top left in the telemetry hud. This should almost be at clipping point, else you could try to increase your Master Scale.

Also in the Controller setup menu at the bottom of the list with Deadzones and Sensitivity sliders there's a FFB Strength slider. I don't know how Thrustmaster's console driver's work, but I hear they feel weaker on console than PC. So that means the drivers are at 60% Global Strength (default of the PC drivers), meaning that you should probably increase FFB Strength to 100% if it's not there already.

Also you can dial down Fx Fy and Fz a bit (to stop it from clipping the FFB signal), than add a bit more Mz in the car specific FFB. Mz is the twist motion of the tyre, which is most sensitive to Slip Angle increase and decreases.

Andrew Weber, our Physics guru actually prefers a more Mz centric FFB on weaker wheels than a CSWv2 since this provides him with more information that otherwise would be washed out by the wheel weight (which can quickly overpower low torque FFB motors).

What I mean by pronounced is I want the wheel to get more heavy as it approaches max cornering force. Right now it feels as if it's just heavy all the time and then it drops off at high slip angles. It doesn't get into the clipping zones from what I see on the telemetry. I haven't played with the Mz slider though so maybe that's what I need.

 

[LogiForce]

What I mean by pronounced is I want the wheel to get more heavy as it approaches max cornering force. Right now it feels as if it's just heavy all the time and then it drops off at high slip angles. It doesn't get into the clipping zones from what I see on the telemetry. I haven't played with the Mz slider though so maybe that's what I need.

What's the FFB Strength at currently? Maybe you have to dial that down a bit? The FFB Strength slider is post FFB-signal generation, so it does not effect clipping of the signal.

Also I am wondering if the centering spring might not be active for some odd reason. Could you stand still with your car, turn the wheel to lock and slowly start rolling a bit? If the wheel slowly rotates to center than centering spring isn't active, if it does jump back to center right away we might have a small issue on our hands. In that case could you post it on the official forum as a bug with a title like "PS4 & T300 - Centering spring active while driving, bug?". It should get picked up by the rest of the team.

 

[ozwheels]

What's the FFB Strength at currently? Maybe you have to dial that down a bit? The FFB Strength slider is post FFB-signal generation, so it does not effect clipping of the signal.

Also I am wondering if the centering spring might not be active for some odd reason. Could you stand still with your car, turn the wheel to lock and slowly start rolling a bit? If the wheel slowly rotates to center than centering spring isn't active, if it does jump back to center right away we might have a small issue on our hands. In that case could you post it on the official forum as a bug with a title like "PS4 & T300 - Centering spring active while driving, bug?". It should get picked up by the rest of the team.

My FFB strength is 100, tire force is 55, and DRR is 0.05. Everything else is default. If I turn full lock it stays full lock, but if I turn the wheel 30 degrees back towards center it snaps back to full center quickly.

Edit: I was on a hill for the first test. On level ground the wheel does not rotate back to center from full lock. You have to manually rotate it back to center.

 

[LogiForce]

My FFB strength is 100, tire force is 55, and DRR is 0.05. Everything else is default. If I turn full lock it stays full lock, but if I turn the wheel 30 degrees back towards center it snaps back to full center quickly.

Edit: I was on a hill for the first test. On level ground the wheel does not rotate back to center from full lock. You have to manually rotate it back to center.

If you're a bit off of full lock, does it snap back on a level surface? If it doesn't, than there is no centering spring concern. Normally as in a real car it should just slowly rotate back, as the rear of the car comes back in line with the rolling direction of the front wheels.

You could try setting the FFB Strength to 60% for a second? See if you get more feel that way.

 

[ozwheels]

I tried FFB 60 and my wheel freaked out. It was stuck at 45 degrees to the left and vibrated a lot. On track it turn full left lock and stayed there. I tried multiple cars, tracks, modes, and settings and it didn't go away. I had to unplug it from the PS4 and let it recalibrate and it worked after that.

I've played around with some of the settings.

Mz - seems to add wheel weight while front tires are under heavy load and you try to turn which is very noticeable while trail breaking

Fy - like Mz but doesn't seem to have much affect until just after turn in then the wheel weight or feel starts to pick up

Fz - pretty straight forward, when you hit bumps or anything vertical the wheel gets very heavy and tries to turn in the direction of the bump if the bump affects the steering

Fx - I can't figure this one out. I know it's about the x-axis but I can't translate that to car on track scenarios

Am in the right mind of thinking for these settings? Basically what I'm trying to achieve is a wheel that gets progressively heavier as I approach the max cornering force.

 

[LogiForce]

I tried FFB 60 and my wheel freaked out. It was stuck at 45 degrees to the left and vibrated a lot. On track it turn full left lock and stayed there. I tried multiple cars, tracks, modes, and settings and it didn't go away. I had to unplug it from the PS4 and let it recalibrate and it worked after that.

I've played around with some of the settings.

Mz - seems to add wheel weight while front tires are under heavy load and you try to turn which is very noticeable while trail breaking

Fy - like Mz but doesn't seem to have much affect until just after turn in then the wheel weight or feel starts to pick up

Fz - pretty straight forward, when you hit bumps or anything vertical the wheel gets very heavy and tries to turn in the direction of the bump if the bump affects the steering

Fx - I can't figure this one out. I know it's about the x-axis but I can't translate that to car on track scenarios

Am in the right mind of thinking for these settings? Basically what I'm trying to achieve is a wheel that gets progressively heavier as I approach the max cornering force.

I'll quote the following from the official pCARS forums.

Courtesy Remco on WMD.

General FFB strength
Output strength of the FFB to the wheel after it has been calculated by the FFB engine. This is basically the final 'volume' adjustment of the FFB. This means that if the FFB is clipping, turning the FFB strength down won't help anymore.

Tyre Force
This is the strength of the tyre contribution to the FFB, which is also the main contributor to the FFB. If the FFB is too high or too low for all cars, you can adjust this value to get it equally stronger/weaker for all cars.

The car-specific settings
These you want to adjust when the FFB of one car is good while for the next car it's too weak or strong (or has a wrong subjective balance of the individual force contributors).

Spindle Master Scale: this scales the forces below it equally up and down, i.e. it's the FFB 'volume knob' specifically for that car. Turn it down if the FFB is clipping, and up if it's too weak.
Fx: this is the FFB component representing the longitudinal force on the tyre contact patch. This should determine FFB when accelerating or braking, but I haven't really experimented with this one yet.
Fy: this is the FFB component representing the lateral force on the tyre contact patch. Very important for feeling mass transfer/inertia of the car when cornering.
Fz: this is the FFB component representing the vertical force on the tyre contact patch. This plays an important part in the 'road feel' of the FFB, i.e. when going over bumps in the road.
Mz: this is the FFB component representing the twisting force of the wheels, i.e. rotation along the vertical axis of the wheel. It is the self-aligning force of the wheels into the driving direction and is most important for getting the 'classic' feel of the FFB getting lighter when the front tyres lose grip.

So when you want a particular force to stand out in the FFB, raise its relative contribution to the total FFB, and after that adjust the Spindle Master Scale value if necessary to get the FFB stay within the full range (i.e. not clipping or getting too weak).

Really it should already be progressive on the slip curve. It should be a full force right away, unless you drive a high downforce car with full front wing and low front tyre pressures... than just maybe.

To be honest being without a current gen console myself I find it hard to imagine what you must be feeling, since I can't relate or am able to discover any potential issues myself.
I do know other WMD members have a PS4 and a pCARS copy for it. So I hope you can link to this conversation and start a thread in the link below.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/fo...mp-Support&s=3e6288772f1bf65bddfee260d13e376c


I'm sorry that I can't help you must further.
I am personally still thinking the menu centering spring is somehow still enabled, which would give you that full on force when you turn in.
A WMD member just came back at me and said that sometimes when you pause the game and drive again, it goes away. However, it can come back as well when you pause it again.
Also it seems that it can go away at times when you go below 35 mph. Again, not ideal in races.

I will try to get to the bottom of this though.

 

[ozwheels]

I'll quote the following from the official pCARS forums.





Really it should already be progressive on the slip curve. It should be a full force right away, unless you drive a high downforce car with full front wing and low front tyre pressures... than just maybe.

To be honest being without a current gen console myself I find it hard to imagine what you must be feeling, since I can't relate or am able to discover any potential issues myself.
I do know other WMD members have a PS4 and a pCARS copy for it. So I hope you can link to this conversation and start a thread in the link below.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/fo...mp-Support&s=3e6288772f1bf65bddfee260d13e376c


I'm sorry that I can't help you must further.
I am personally still thinking the menu centering spring is somehow still enabled, which would give you that full on force when you turn in.
A WMD member just came back at me and said that sometimes when you pause the game and drive again, it goes away. However, it can come back as well when you pause it again.
Also it seems that it can go away at times when you go below 35 mph. Again, not ideal in races.

I will try to get to the bottom of this though.

I'm starting to get the hang of the FFB and I'll check out the official forums. Thanks a lot for all the help.

 

[bleeder]

I'll quote the following from the official pCARS forums.





Really it should already be progressive on the slip curve. It should be a full force right away, unless you drive a high downforce car with full front wing and low front tyre pressures... than just maybe.

To be honest being without a current gen console myself I find it hard to imagine what you must be feeling, since I can't relate or am able to discover any potential issues myself.
I do know other WMD members have a PS4 and a pCARS copy for it. So I hope you can link to this conversation and start a thread in the link below.

http://forum.projectcarsgame.com/fo...mp-Support&s=3e6288772f1bf65bddfee260d13e376c


I'm sorry that I can't help you must further.
I am personally still thinking the menu centering spring is somehow still enabled, which would give you that full on force when you turn in.
A WMD member just came back at me and said that sometimes when you pause the game and drive again, it goes away. However, it can come back as well when you pause it again.
Also it seems that it can go away at times when you go below 35 mph. Again, not ideal in races.

I will try to get to the bottom of this though.

good find, be nice if that stuff was explained in game as well

 

[mazinga]

Which part of telemetry shows that FFB signal is OK or is clipping?

 

[LogiForce]

Which part of telemetry shows that FFB signal is OK or is clipping?

FFB Monitor in the upper left. If the line hits the top and flattens or the bottom and flattens, it is clipping.

 

[LeMansAid]

What I can't quite grasp is whether or not the ffb debate is one of canned vs real (ie. the absence of what many are used to), or about a genuine lack of road feel. What confuses the issue even more for me is thinking back to all the very old posts (even the ones from the accidentally deleted T-12 thread) when pCARS clearly lacked (in my hands-off opinion) road feel, but backers generally defended it regardless. Also confusing though is people that swear by Assetto's ffb in comparison, but state the canned effects in describing what they love so much about it.

Having 3dof motion I don't feel any need to load the wheel up with effects felt through the body in real life, so minimal is fine, as long as what is there really works.

I find it so hard to believe that @LogiForce would be reveling in the game if the possibilities were not there, but I'd hate to throw my money at this one just to find it lacks presence completely, as opposed to just lacking the presence that people are used to.

 

[alegunner68]

My wheel snaps to the centre, but only in certain cars, the capri for example does it, but open wheelers like the fc doesn't.
I did post it in the bugs thread but fear it may have got lost due to the amount of posts there..

 

[bleeder]

My wheel snaps to the centre, but only in certain cars, the capri for example does it, but open wheelers like the fc doesn't.
I did post it in the bugs thread but fear it may have got lost due to the amount of posts there..

sometimes if I take a knock and let go of the wheel it's goes side to side until it settles. pretty sure the wheels wouldn't be moving like that so perhaps it's a glitch too?

 

[alegunner68]

Something's not right, hope it gets looked into at some point, unless there's a centre spring setting I've missed

 

[Goruk]

Hi guys
So yesterday I was messing arround with the FFB, at a point I get a white line on the FFB meter on the telemetry hud (never saw it before), after some more fidling it stops from appear and never saw it again.
This white line refers to what?

And other thing, the physics/FFB on the Karts are completely broken, I was doing a carrer race at greenwood and start to change some values in the FFB car menu.
Initially I was doing laps arround 44s, but i was not happy with the feel of the car so i´ve change some values in the FFB car menu.
Started with the Mz value and was a little more happy with the feel but not completely so i´ve start to mess arround with the Fy, at this point i was happy with the feel of the car and was doing 43s laps, but i´ve notice something strange, I was able to slide the car a lot more and somehow i feelt i had more grip.
So i did some more testing, (restart the race about 10 times or more ) I´ve start to increse the values to see what would happen. First the Fy, all the way to the 200, improved time, then the Fx (200), improve my time, then the Fz(200) improve my time.
At this point the wheel was rock hard arround the center but was still drivable, and i was capable of sliding the car all arround the track with imense grip levels, it was just insane, but a lot of fun.

After some more tuning i´ve end up a 41,5xx arround the track, for me a 3 seconds gain on a track so short with only FFB fiddling, with extreme values is something odd.

Can someone test this out please, and tell me i´m crazy.
If this is true the FFB settings are acting like grip multipliers.

So my final numbers were this:

PS4
T500 RS

Controler setings
Sensibility - 60
FFB- 100

Tire force - 100

FFB Car Menu

Master scale - 30
Fx - 200
Fy - 200
Fz - 200
Mz - 142 you can go to 150 but the wheel will shake on the straits..

Sop Lat - 20
Sop vet - 10 not shure about this two, but is something arround this numbers..

@LogiForce Something to look at too...

Fx - I can't figure this one out. I know it's about the x-axis but I can't translate that to car on track scenarios

Better felt with ABS off, test this: turn all the other forces off, leave only Mz and Fx in a car with no ABS, when you block your tires Fx kicks in.

 

[alegunner68]

I've had the white line as well when i was messing with the ffb. All i know is it's a high frequency vibration that i didn't like at all.
Don't know how i got it, and i don't know how i got rid of it.
Something was set too high i think, one of the spindle sliders. Fz?

 

[LogiForce]

What I can't quite grasp is whether or not the ffb debate is one of canned vs real (ie. the absence of what many are used to), or about a genuine lack of road feel. What confuses the issue even more for me is thinking back to all the very old posts (even the ones from the accidentally deleted T-12 thread) when pCARS clearly lacked (in my hands-off opinion) road feel, but backers generally defended it regardless. Also confusing though is people that swear by Assetto's ffb in comparison, but state the canned effects in describing what they love so much about it.

Having 3dof motion I don't feel any need to load the wheel up with effects felt through the body in real life, so minimal is fine, as long as what is there really works.

I find it so hard to believe that @LogiForce would be reveling in the game if the possibilities were not there, but I'd hate to throw my money at this one just to find it lacks presence completely, as opposed to just lacking the presence that people are used to.

First of let me say that most if not all cars use 'tyre pressures' below the OEM or Tyre Manufacturer's specifications. I am sure you can imagine that a soft tyre starts to act like a cushion and dampens all air. So as a wheel racer it would be good to look up the original specifications on this.

As an example the Caterham R500 uses 1.4 bar all-around in the game, but in real life the OEM pressures state 1.7 bar front and 1.6 bar rear.
The BMW 1M also uses 2.0 all-around (I think from memory) but the OEM specifactions are 'Empty: F-2.3 and R-2.2 bar, Full Load: F-2.6 and R-2.8 bar'.

So to get more feel back, get more pressure in the tyres.
Heck, I even do it on my own car. The car came from factory with some old model Michelin Pilot Sport tyres, which have a stiff carcass. However, nowadays I run Michelin Energy Saver tyres with a soft carcass and... I don't like the soft carcass.
So in my case my OEM tyre pressures are 2.2 bar all-around when empty, 2.4 bar all-around when full. Now what I actually use by default is 2.6 bar all-around just to get more road-feel in real-life.


Now secondly. Depending on what wheel you have (especially anything below a CSWv2 in torque levels) you might want to go with a Fy Fx Fz and Mz setting where not all of those have the same value (as per default).
You have to attenuate Fz more for getting more verticle forces coming through.
Also you can replace Mz with SoP to get a different kind of weight transfer feel.

In the end the default settings are often just a baseline on which it is easy to improve the game for you, cause even within WMD we had arguiments over what you should feel in a sim wheel. In the end we didn't get a clear cut answer other than we all have different desires and expectations when it comes to what we wish to feel.
That plus having to accomodate the car setups for gamepad users made it so that wheel users might wish to tinker a bit with wheel and car setups, but not much (in my opinion) needs to be done.

So first the easy thing... find the right tyre pressures for the car you like and input those into the game. That's the quickest way to see if there isn't an improvement.
If you go off track and you still feel too little, you might wish to tinker with FFB settings a little. I haven't checked over the weekend if a FFB guide has already been posted in the official forum.

 

[LogiForce]

Hi guys
So yesterday I was messing arround with the FFB, at a point I get a white line on the FFB meter on the telemetry hud (never saw it before), after some more fidling it stops from appear and never saw it again.
This white line refers to what?

And other thing, the physics/FFB on the Karts are completely broken, I was doing a carrer race at greenwood and start to change some values in the FFB car menu.
Initially I was doing laps arround 44s, but i was not happy with the feel of the car so i´ve change some values in the FFB car menu.
Started with the Mz value and was a little more happy with the feel but not completely so i´ve start to mess arround with the Fy, at this point i was happy with the feel of the car and was doing 43s laps, but i´ve notice something strange, I was able to slide the car a lot more and somehow i feelt i had more grip.
So i did some more testing, (restart the race about 10 times or more ) I´ve start to increse the values to see what would happen. First the Fy, all the way to the 200, improved time, then the Fx (200), improve my time, then the Fz(200) improve my time.
At this point the wheel was rock hard arround the center but was still drivable, and i was capable of sliding the car all arround the track with imense grip levels, it was just insane, but a lot of fun.

After some more tuning i´ve end up a 41,5xx arround the track, for me a 3 seconds gain on a track so short with only FFB fiddling, with extreme values is something odd.

Can someone test this out please, and tell me i´m crazy.
If this is true the FFB settings are acting like grip multipliers.

So my final numbers were this:

PS4
T500 RS

Controler setings
Sensibility - 60
FFB- 100

Tire force - 100

FFB Car Menu

Master scale - 30
Fx - 200
Fy - 200
Fz - 200
Mz - 142 you can go to 150 but the wheel will shake on the straits..

Sop Lat - 20
Sop vet - 10 not shure about this two, but is something arround this numbers..

@LogiForce Something to look at too...



Better felt with ABS off, test this: turn all the other forces off, leave only Mz and Fx in a car with no ABS, when you block your tires Fx kicks in.

The white line that goes waving up and down is your FFB. There are two channels though. Non-mixed and Hardware mixed I think. It depends on the type of drivers which of the two is used. So if there is only a moving line in one side, you can ignore the other.

Also with that you are clipping your wheel like mad. I guess some just like a heavy wheel, but clipping your wheel is useless. Just get a better wheel like a Simsteering or Accuforce. Those are the kinds of wheels for those who like a heavy wheel.

Not sure what I should look at though.

 

[Goruk]

Also with that you are clipping your wheel like mad. I guess some just like a heavy wheel, but clipping your wheel is useless. Just get a better wheel like a Simsteering or Accuforce. Those are the kinds of wheels for those who like a heavy wheel.

Not sure what I should look at though.

I know that i´m cliping my wheel, that´s not the point, the point is, that by doing that it feels like I have more grip.

 

[LogiForce]

I know that i´m cliping my wheel, that´s not the point, the point is, that by doing that it feels like I have more grip.

FFB does not influence tyre grip. FFB only uses figures spit out by the tyre model to give you direct feedback. So technically it can't be that you have more grip, but what you feel is different of course.

What wheel do you use? Just out of curiousity.

 

[Goruk]

FFB does not influence tyre grip. FFB only uses figures spit out by the tyre model to give you direct feedback. So technically it can't be that you have more grip, but what you feel is different of course.

What wheel do you use? Just out of curiousity.

T500

 

[JBF77]

I'm struggling to find the right FFB setting for the 'tyre force' option. I've tried experimenting with different values, but I still feel a lack of overall road feel. What do you recommend? It is currently set at 160 and I use a T300 wheel.
Thanks!

 

[alegunner68]

I'm struggling to find the right FFB setting for the 'tyre force' option. I've tried experimenting with different values, but I still feel a lack of overall road feel. What do you recommend? It is currently set at 160 and I use a T300 wheel.
Thanks!

That sounds too high, so high it may be clipping.
Try low settings perhaps then work up until you're happy.

 

[JBF77]

That sounds too high, so high it may be clipping.
Try low settings perhaps then work up until you're happy.

Will try, thanks for the quick reply!

 

[bleeder]

clipping makes my T300 vibrate in a way that, when it first happened, made me think it was broken. it's a horrible feeling, almost like a nasty grinding. i actually took my headphones off when it first happened because i thought i'd be able to hear metal grinding and buzzing within the wheel. now that i've got my FFB setup in a way i really enjoy, it no longer happens. continuous clipping can't be a good thing for the hardware. i'd be worried my wheel would break, just like cranking your amp too high and blowing your speakers, or getting horrible crackling distortion in an audio file.

 

[ozwheels]

clipping makes my T300 vibrate in a way that, when it first happened, made me think it was broken. it's a horrible feeling, almost like a nasty grinding. i actually took my headphones off when it first happened because i thought i'd be able to hear metal grinding and buzzing within the wheel. now that i've got my FFB setup in a way i really enjoy, it no longer happens. continuous clipping can't be a good thing for the hardware. i'd be worried my wheel would break, just like cranking your amp too high and blowing your speakers, or getting horrible crackling distortion in an audio file.

Does a white line appear when you get this vibration?

 

[bleeder]

i wasn't really looking at telemetry back then but i have seen that white line. it's at the bottom of the box, right? yellow at the top? i'll try to reproduce the vibration and take a look at the telemetry when it happens. it felt like all the subtleties of the feedback had gone and it had just a constant buzzing feeling instead.