FFB Suggestion

bleeder
i wasn't really looking at telemetry back then but i have seen that white line. it's at the bottom of the box, right? yellow at the top? i'll try to reproduce the vibration and take a look at the telemetry when it happens. it felt like all the subtleties of the feedback had gone and it had just a constant buzzing feeling instead.
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Yea it's a T300 bug where that white line appears at the bottom and the wheel vibrates like crazy.
 
ozwheels
Yea it's a T300 bug where that white line appears at the bottom and the wheel vibrates like crazy.
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hope to see that ironed out ASAP then. one other strange occurrence is that regardless of whether I calibrate my wheel manually or just reset to default, whenever I jump in a car the wheel moves ever so slightly to the left so is not completely level for driving. doesn't really make a lot of difference to the handling, it really is a small amount, I just don't get why it keeps happening.
 
bleeder
hope to see that ironed out ASAP then. one other strange occurrence is that regardless of whether I calibrate my wheel manually or just reset to default, whenever I jump in a car the wheel moves ever so slightly to the left so is not completely level for driving. doesn't really make a lot of difference to the handling, it really is a small amount, I just don't get why it keeps happening.
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That's funny you mention that because I noticed the same thing tonight, drives me crazy.
 
ozwheels
That's funny you mention that because I noticed the same thing tonight, drives me crazy.
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really? well glad it's not just me lol. I can feel the notch in the wheel at centre, but the game doesn't want it there. can't remember if it's always been like that for this game. was going to try manually calibrating but holding it slightly off the 900 degrees marker, see if it helps
 
bleeder
clipping makes my T300 vibrate in a way that, when it first happened, made me think it was broken. it's a horrible feeling, almost like a nasty grinding. i actually took my headphones off when it first happened because i thought i'd be able to hear metal grinding and buzzing within the wheel. now that i've got my FFB setup in a way i really enjoy, it no longer happens. continuous clipping can't be a good thing for the hardware. i'd be worried my wheel would break, just like cranking your amp too high and blowing your speakers, or getting horrible crackling distortion in an audio file.
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Interesting, I'm using a t300, care to share your settings? I spent some time with pCARS last night and improved the feel a bit, but something to compare it to would be great.
 
Sureboss
Interesting, I'm using a t300, care to share your settings? I spent some time with pCARS last night and improved the feel a bit, but something to compare it to would be great.
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sure. I posted my earlier ones somewhere around here but they're different now. I'll put them up when I get on the game later.

the thing is is that the wheel settings must surely affect your tuning setup. for example if you raise the steering sensitivity for the wheel you could probably have a different steering ratio for the car than someone else who has their own wheel settings, so one person's settings might not be necessarily work for another if their tunings are different.
 
Ok I hope someone can answer this question and perhaps even give me a solution.

I started practising for an upcoming race with the formula gulf around donington gp but every time I turned my t500rs wheel going round a bend it would feel like it was jumping a gear. Now I don't know wether this is due to it being a bumpy track or a fault in my wheel. Any soloutions for ffb settings would be great
 
Punknoodle
I have the centering spring disabled in my CSW settings. I'll have a bit of a play tonight
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It would do you alot to understand the "F" settings in the FFB per car menu. Fx, Fy, Fz all pertain to different forces and "feels". It took me a bit of time but I finally am starting to get it. This video helped me alot. I used the settings there on my Formula A car at "Susuka" and the car rocks.
 
ozwheels
So when I get the light feeling I've gone past the max cornering force and at this point I'm trying to overdrive the car right?
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I had that same feeling and I thought that the ffb settings were crap...until I over drove the car and boom! pirouette all across the corner. When you start to feel that, its best to get ready, you are right on the limit...or very close to it! LOL!

Good stuff here. Good discussion. Thanks to all the experts for their time and attention.
 
Just so everyone knows. It seems I had a issue with my CSWv2's firmware or drivers. Something in it caused the centerspring to malfunction, and the wheel would not stay still at standstill in the position where you left it. Plus it remained enabled to some small extend during driving.

This has been resolved with me fixing (getting the latest) software from Fanatec.


What this means is that I now use the default CSWv2 tuning menu settings. Leaving SPR and DPR both on 100.
 
LogiForce
Just so everyone knows. It seems I had a issue with my CSWv2's firmware or drivers. Something in it caused the centerspring to malfunction, and the wheel would not stay still at standstill in the position where you left it. Plus it remained enabled to some small extend during driving.

This has been resolved with me fixing (getting the latest) software from Fanatec.


What this means is that I now use the default CSWv2 tuning menu settings. Leaving SPR and DPR both on 100.
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What is the latest firmware / software? That is interesting, I'd have to check my settings but I'm sure my Assetto Corsa settings have few of the CSW settings turned to 0.
 
Punknoodle
What is the latest firmware / software? That is interesting, I'd have to check my settings but I'm sure my Assetto Corsa settings have few of the CSW settings turned to 0.
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It's on Fanatec's website. If you go to the CSWv2 product page, select "Downloads" and get the latest driver. Firmware is included with the driver, which you can access by going to the driver properties and than "Update" tab.

I am a beta tester for Fanatec, so I might have had some cross-talk/conflicts on my part as well because I installed multiple beta drivers which didn't remove completely. So I had to look through the Windows registry and remove anything related to Endor, Fanatec or Clubsport.

Beta testing anything (games, hardware, software (e.g. drivers or firmware)) can be a blessing to be allowed to do, but a curse as well.


In any case a default tuning menu profile is more than adequate to get the most out of the game.
 
LogiForce
It's on Fanatec's website. If you go to the CSWv2 product page, select "Downloads" and get the latest driver. Firmware is included with the driver, which you can access by going to the driver properties and than "Update" tab.

I am a beta tester for Fanatec, so I might have had some cross-talk/conflicts on my part as well because I installed multiple beta drivers which didn't remove completely. So I had to look through the Windows registry and remove anything related to Endor, Fanatec or Clubsport.

Beta testing anything (games, hardware, software (e.g. drivers or firmware)) can be a blessing to be allowed to do, but a curse as well.


In any case a default tuning menu profile is more than adequate to get the most out of the game.
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Remember that long discussion we had about feeling slip angles with a T300 and a possible centering spring issue? I came across a thread on the official forums where multiple people were complaining about the same thing I was and saying they felt the centering spring was enabled because the wheel would snap to center. Have you heard anything internal at WMD about this on PS4?
 
ozwheels
Remember that long discussion we had about feeling slip angles with a T300 and a possible centering spring issue? I came across a thread on the official forums where multiple people were complaining about the same thing I was and saying they felt the centering spring was enabled because the wheel would snap to center. Have you heard anything internal at WMD about this on PS4?
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No, but it's worth to bring it up within WMD with a link to it. Since I fixed my issue on PC with the CSWv2 it might've snowed under a bit. So if you can pass me the link, i'll make a post in WMD to put some attention to it from the team.

Also I didn't have the opportunity yet to double check the T500 yet on at least PC, since I've been away all day today. I only just got back in the house and I'm quite tired after a full day of walking in a zoo.
Maybe I'll do that tonight or tomorrow.
 
ozwheels
^^ @LogiForce That's the thread.
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Made a new thread on WMD so it'll get some eye, instead of it getting muddled within other talk.

Btw, if you Fanatec guys still have issue with the latest drivers/firmware publically available at this point in time (Driver v205 with CSWv2 firmware at v70 I think), than you'll just have to wait a little while until Fanatec is ready to get a new driver and firmware out since I am on beta stuff personally. So a fix for this will be available on the Fanatec side for sure.

Since it's working on Logitech and Fanatec wheels properly now, we can say for sure it's not a game code related issue. Which means that SMS might have to get in touch with Thrustmaster over this eventually.
 
ozwheels
I tried FFB 60 and my wheel freaked out. It was stuck at 45 degrees to the left and vibrated a lot. On track it turn full left lock and stayed there. I tried multiple cars, tracks, modes, and settings and it didn't go away. I had to unplug it from the PS4 and let it recalibrate and it worked after that.
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I have the same PS4 T300 combo and this regularly happens to me. Very random and unpredictable and very, very annoying :-( Both on and off line too.
 
I am slowly finding good setting for my t500 on ps4. Well at least I think they are good, I know they can be better. Although it seems to me the glitches with the t500 on ps4 are slowly getting worse. Its about every menu now that the wheel will do something wrong, there was even one time I tried a new car and hated it because I thought the steering ratio was so low, but the wheel had reset to 270°
 
I have a big issue with not having any feedback from the tyres when cornering (lateral?)
The only time i hear (very low) tyre squeal or vibration is when it's lost grip by which time its too late.

I have no idea how hard i can push or how much grip is left, it's totally numb.
I've read through the thread, some of it is a bit over my head to be honest.
I've tried setting FFB in the car settings but cannot find anything that gives me feel before i've lost all grip.

So, apart from "get a wheel" is there anything i can do?
Anyone found settings that do work on controller?

Its totally ruining the game for me, im just guessing at every corner how fast/hard i can
go. :guilty:
 
Maybe a silly question, but is the FFB something you should look into with a DualShock4 as well?
 
Goruk
@phil_75 What camera do you use?
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Cockpit mate
Assists off but set to Real, tried off & real, same numbness.
Im just getting nothing when cornering, no sound, no vibration until grip has gone completely then its too late.
There's no progression.

I know someone will say "but thats how slicks work"
Yes that's all well and good in real life where you have gforces & seat of your pants feel.
In a game it is useless.
 
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phil_75
Cockpit mate
Assists off but set to Real, tried off & real, same numbness.
Im just getting nothing when cornering, no sound, no vibration until grip has gone completely then its too late.
There's no progression.

I know someone will say "but thats how slicks work"
Yes that's all well and good in real life where you have gforces & seat of your pants feel.
In a game it is useless.
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Try camera leening and g-force on camera settins to give some kind of indication what the car is doing...
 
Cmorales1979
It would do you alot to understand the "F" settings in the FFB per car menu. Fx, Fy, Fz all pertain to different forces and "feels". It took me a bit of time but I finally am starting to get it. This video helped me alot. I used the settings there on my Formula A car at "Susuka" and the car rocks.
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Same here. I'm currently taking out each car to tune it's FFB settings, before i get further into the game and start tuning the suspension.

Basically: Master scale: don't up it too much, 26 is fine in most cases.
Fx: FFB when acc/braking
Fy: How heavy your wheel feels when cornering
Fz: How much FFB over bumps and kerbs
Mz: How much FFB when losing traction

Once you start playing around with those sliders, it has a great effect on all of the cars, and compensates for any 'lack off' or 'to much' effects on your particular wheel.
 
I have a suggestion...

Has anyone else tried turning all the global settings down to 0? Apart from FFB and Tire Force obviously.

I've done so, and the change is stunning. You can work with the per car FFB settings much better, and you can really feel what each of the scales are doing through the FFB. Sure, it's quite a soft FFB, you can't rack the strength right up otherwise you hit very bad graining and centre spring force issues (T300) but that is always going to be the problem no matter what settings you bolt on, until it gets patched.
 
mister dog
Same here. I'm currently taking out each car to tune it's FFB settings, before i get further into the game and start tuning the suspension.

Basically: Master scale: don't up it too much, 26 is fine in most cases.
Fx: FFB when acc/braking
Fy: How heavy your wheel feels when cornering
Fz: How much FFB over bumps and kerbs
Mz: How much FFB when losing traction

Once you start playing around with those sliders, it has a great effect on all of the cars, and compensates for any 'lack off' or 'to much' effects on your particular wheel.
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Brilliant! ,
Thankyou for that.
Hundreds of technical posts and jargon when all we need is it put in simple layman terms.

Now i have something i can work with :bowdown:
 
My T500RS just started shaking when going in a straight line today, no matter what car. The FFB seems to work like normal when the wheel is turned, but shakes violently every time it's straight (even when the cars is standing still - where the shaking continues regardless of the position of the wheel).

I've been using Jack Spades settings for Force Feedback, but even though I've now tried to reset the FFB setting in the garage menu and also tried resetting the settings under "Options & Help>Controls" in the main menu, I still have the problem.
I have also tried to exit the game and disconnect and reconnect the wheel again as well as restarting the PS4, but to no avail.

I know the T500RS have some problems in PCARS, but this is not the issue described in Thrustmasters statement, where the wheel shakes in the menus when not completely straight, as I'm not experiencing that (at the moment at least).
If anybody knows how to fix it, it would be really appreciated as the game has become unplayable.

EDIT:
The problem seems to have been caused by having 'Deadzone Removal Range' for the force feedback, set to anything more than 0.00 (even though I've previously had it at 0.05 with no problems). The wheel now seems to be working as before, though still with the glitches mentioned known by Thrustmaster.
 
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Mr_Hansen
My T500RS just started shaking when going in a straight line today, no matter what car. The FFB seems to work like normal when the wheel is turned, but shakes violently every time it's straight (even when the cars is standing still - where the shaking continues regardless of the position of the wheel).

I've been using Jack Spades settings for Force Feedback, but even though I've now tried to reset the FFB setting in the garage menu and also tried resetting the settings under "Options & Help>Controls" in the main menu, I still have the problem.
I have also tried to exit the game and disconnect and reconnect the wheel again as well as restarting the PS4, but to no avail.

I know the T500RS have some problems in PCARS, but this is not the issue described in Thrustmasters statement, where the wheel shakes in the menus when not completely straight, as I'm not experiencing that (at the moment at least).
If anybody knows how to fix it, it would be really appreciated as the game has become unplayable.

EDIT:
The problem seems to have been caused by having 'Deadzone Removal Range' for the force feedback, set to anything more than 0.00 (even though I've previously had it at 0.05 with no problems). The wheel now seems to be working as before, though still with the glitches mentioned known by Thrustmaster.
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Yeah, the shaking down the straight is a couple of things. On the T300 it can do this because of the centre spring force that's permanently ON! right now. Second thing is you can't have the dead removal range at 0.00, because of a number of menu issues as well as driving down the straight. I have my dead removal settings at 0.05 and 0.02.
 

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