Forza Motorsport General Discussion Thread

  • Thread starter Terronium-12
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The short versions especially the very short westcourse with 4 right handers was insane. Online races could be total carnage or the best ones. Same for Rio Mini.
My Club had a tradition where we would finish each race night with Last Van Standing.

  • Long Beach West
  • 10 laps
  • Any car
  • Damage on
  • Finish first, or last, by any means necessary

The meta eventually ended up being a mix of Bugatti Veyrons, Tankpool Trucks, Limos and BMW Isettas with motorbike engines. The Isettas may have gotten pounded through the game world into an infinite fall a few (dozen) times, and the fountain section could launch cars into outer space.


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My Club had a tradition where we would finish each race night with Last Van Standing.

  • Long Beach West
  • 10 laps
  • Any car
  • Damage on
  • Finish first, or last, by any means necessary

The meta eventually ended up being a mix of Bugatti Veyrons, Tankpool Trucks, Limos and BMW Isettas with motorbike engines. The Isettas may have gotten pounded through the game world into an infinite fall a few (dozen) times, and the fountain section could launch cars into outer space.
Sounds like I would absolutely enjoy it :cheers:
 
My Club had a tradition where we would finish each race night with Last Van Standing.

  • Long Beach West
  • 10 laps
  • Any car
  • Damage on
  • Finish first, or last, by any means necessary

The meta eventually ended up being a mix of Bugatti Veyrons, Tankpool Trucks, Limos and BMW Isettas with motorbike engines. The Isettas may have gotten pounded through the game world into an infinite fall a few (dozen) times, and the fountain section could launch cars into outer space.
That sounds like amazing fun!
 
Isn`t this kind of realistic? (in a diplomatic mode today :rolleyes:) You cannot expect to just take the car out of the trailer and run pole position lap-times. You and your team needs to work a bit to dial in the car for the track. Ten sec`s away might seem a bit much but as soon as you get a grip (cough:ouch:) on where you`re loosing time you`ll start seeing mid-50`s
Nah not really and I probably should have kept my mouth shut about it because I don't tune or do any kind of setup work so if throwing upgrade parts at it doesn't help it then I just get what I get.

I just gave it a try with stock build and tune. I had no chance of matching the AI with them limited to 955 vs my 950 (max difficulty), but I did get into the 1:55s. I did a 10 lap race and was still getting better at the track towards the end. You need to make full use of the concrete areas on corner exit, but at the same time it's tough to get traction on them, so you have to develop a technique for how exactly you make the path of the car curve so that you run the right amount wide, but are straightening up when you want to get the power down on the concrete.

The fastest AI lap was 1:55.5, so I think they are beatable, as the car can definitely do that sort of time, but it's hard because they're so much faster on the straights then hold you up on slower sections, so it's hard to get anywhere near the lap time you can do on an empty track.

Edit: Tried the race again, but with upgraded rear tyre width, no other changes. That doesn't change the PI, but my fastest lap dropped to 1:54.5 and I was able to win by 9 seconds, from the default start position of 11th. The car still feels pretty slidey, not sure that's realistic.
I'm at difficulty level 5. The AI didn't break 2 minutes either.
 
My Club had a tradition where we would finish each race night with Last Van Standing.

  • Long Beach West
  • 10 laps
  • Any car
  • Damage on
  • Finish first, or last, by any means necessary

The meta eventually ended up being a mix of Bugatti Veyrons, Tankpool Trucks, Limos and BMW Isettas with motorbike engines. The Isettas may have gotten pounded through the game world into an infinite fall a few (dozen) times, and the fountain section could launch cars into outer space.


View attachment 1334382View attachment 1334383
I seriously feel as if the current FM iteration is missing this kind of energy, this sounds really fun.
 
Hi Everyone, I'm not sure if this is a controversial comment, but felt I wanted to share it. I was pretty dissappointed when the game came out as the graphics are horrendous, particularly compared to how good GT7 is. Some of FM8 models look absolutely crap.

But, I put that aside and have just focussed on the driving. And I have to say, the feel of the cars are really really good. They feel different to one another, their characteristics are good, you can balance on throttle/steering etc. Where GT7 feels one or two dimensional, FM8 feels pretty good.

thoughts?
 
I was pretty dissappointed when the game came out as the graphics are horrendous, particularly compared to how good GT7 is. Some of FM8 models look absolutely crap.

But, I put that aside and have just focussed on the driving. And I have to say, the feel of the cars are really really good. They feel different to one another, their characteristics are good, you can balance on throttle/steering etc. Where GT7 feels one or two dimensional, FM8 feels pretty good.

thoughts?
I've never thought FM's graphics look bad. Playing on PC, even with it only set to High quality and Ray Tracing off, it looks terrific to me. Very natural contrast and saturation, I think some people have got used to the artificial look that many other games have, and their brains now perceive it as normal. There was a similar thing when AoE 4 came out and people said the graphics were much worse than AoE 2. AoE 4 actually has far superior graphics, and if you only play AoE 4 for a while, then go back to AoE 2, it's AoE 2 that looks terrible.

With Nordschleife coming to the game, I've been driving Nordschleife with GT3 and LMP1 cars in all of FM, GT7, PC2 and AC, and IMO FM has the best driving feel of those 4 games with a controller. That's not to say the other games don't have their good points. The in-helmet view in PC2 is spectacular and the most immersive visual experience. AC has a more accurate track rendition (but from many years ago). But in the other games, I feel like I'm battling against the controller handling code as well as the physics, and it's hard to separate the two. AC exposes controller parameters like gamma and filter etc to the user, and these have a huge impact that greatly exceeds what you'd normally expect for the impact of tuning the car, so you can't really tell what is physics and what is controller handling code. Both combine to translate what you're doing with the controller into car movements. The one that overall does the best job of converting my controller actions into car behaviour, feeling the most natural and intuitive and like driving a real car, is FM. I can't drive Nordschleife in ACC yet, but I did re-visit ACC as well, and while the physics and controller handling are undoubtedly good, it is at the same time a bit clinical and sterile feeling compared to FM. It might be that it's realistic for a GT3 car to feel that way, I can't comment on that as I've never driven one in real life.

I probably should have kept my mouth shut about it because I don't tune or do any kind of setup work
You're missing out on a lot if you don't do that. As I said in an earlier post, both the '21 and '23 Cadillac LMP cars have bad stock tunes IMO and need fixing. I cannot believe that these cars in real life would have oversteer and understeer to the extent they do in the game. If you don't mess with anything else, start off just changing tyre pressures, ARBs, and the anti-squat.

I haven't tried it yet, but for the '23 Cadillac, you want to adjust the rear anti-squat to be high, because the car has masses of rear wheel grip, but is understeering on corner exit, so by reducing the weight transfer to the back on acceleration you keep more weight on the front wheels, letting it turn better. But if this causes it to lose rear wheel traction, you need to find a setting that balances the two elements.

Tyre pressures and ARBs generally work on the principle that softer is more grip, so for the '23 Cadillac I'd also try reducing front tyre pressure and ARB stiffness, and maybe increasing rear tyre pressure and ARB stiffness, but obviously don't go so far as to have it oversteering when all you're doing is trying to go around a corner.

Changes for the '21 would be the opposite of these, as it has the opposite problem.

Edit: After doing the Road America race quite a few times with the '21 Cadillac, I think the car is just pretty bad for pace relative to PI in stock form. I did eventually manage to get it handling quite nicely with the stock build, but it didn't really make my fastest lap times any faster, it just meant I was more consistently close to that lap time. The changes I had to make to the tuning parameters were very extensive. The best I was able to do against the max difficulty AI was to finish 2nd, 3 secs behind the winner, starting from 10th ish. But if you upgrade the rear tyre width, the car becomes much faster for no change in PI, and it's then easy to beat the AI.
 
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I had hoped to see the return of some lost track variants on months where they couldn't bring us a whole new track. Particularly the Homestead road course that uses the banking for the final corner as that version is far better for overtaking/drafting, and Watkins Glen without the bus stop for some vintage GTO/GTP racing. Suzuka West as well, as East is just the boring half of the track.

I had a go at the same race with the '23 #01 Cadillac, and the difference vs the '21 #31 is crazy. Whereas the '21 has no rear grip and oversteers like crazy, the '23 has masses of rear grip and is understeery. I can't believe this is caused by anything other than bad stock tunes in the game.
The stock tune for the LMDh Caddy is pretty weird if I remember right, the toe numbers in particular and it would be interesting to see how they arrived at those numbers for the default setup.

It seems you can be way heavier handed with the changes to it than you can be with other LMP cars, but even doing the wacky Forza turn stuff like max front/min rear aero, 1/40 on swaybars, 100 accel in the diff it still understeers pretty bad.

Maybe it makes sense because it's quite a bit heavier than most LMP cars, but to me it feels like a fast GT car more than an LMP car... Which is actually kinda nice in a way as it feels less knife-edge-y which I find is more comfortable (and therefore less mentally tiring) for doing longer races.
The headlights do not look convincing enough and have a rather canned effect. They're also not bright enough when it's completely dark and there's like a semi circle or something spawning in and out in front of the car right where the beams converge.

So annoying and immersion breaking. Being discussed on the official forum too.
This is really annoying for those of us that don't use the driving line. Headlights were pretty bad in FM7 too, but it's kind of a bigger issue now that every track has a full day/night cycle.

Lots of the tracks have enough ambient lighting at night that you don't notice too much, but there are a few spots where it is really obvious, like Blanchimont at Spa. Even though they added the big floodlights in may places, the Nordschleife has two of the worst spots at the final left hander in Kesselchen and the entry of Mutkurve. For both, you can't see the turn-in point until is too late in faster cars, unless you are using the line or maybe the track limits things, but you shouldn't have to use those to not die in a race car that has brightass lights for going high speeds at night.
 
I've never thought FM's graphics look bad. Playing on PC, even with it only set to High quality and Ray Tracing off, it looks terrific to me. Very natural contrast and saturation, I think some people have got used to the artificial look that many other games have, and their brains now perceive it as normal. There was a similar thing when AoE 4 came out and people said the graphics were much worse than AoE 2. AoE 4 actually has far superior graphics, and if you only play AoE 4 for a while, then go back to AoE 2, it's AoE 2 that looks terrible.

With Nordschleife coming to the game, I've been driving Nordschleife with GT3 and LMP1 cars in all of FM, GT7, PC2 and AC, and IMO FM has the best driving feel of those 4 games with a controller. That's not to say the other games don't have their good points. The in-helmet view in PC2 is spectacular and the most immersive visual experience. AC has a more accurate track rendition (but from many years ago). But in the other games, I feel like I'm battling against the controller handling code as well as the physics, and it's hard to separate the two. AC exposes controller parameters like gamma and filter etc to the user, and these have a huge impact that greatly exceeds what you'd normally expect for the impact of tuning the car, so you can't really tell what is physics and what is controller handling code. Both combine to translate what you're doing with the controller into car movements. The one that overall does the best job of converting my controller actions into car behaviour, feeling the most natural and intuitive and like driving a real car, is FM. I can't drive Nordschleife in ACC yet, but I did re-visit ACC as well, and while the physics and controller handling are undoubtedly good, it is at the same time a bit clinical and sterile feeling compared to FM. It might be that it's realistic for a GT3 car to feel that way, I can't comment on that as I've never driven one in real life.

I agree with pretty much everything you've written.

As someone who has pretty much all PC "circuit driving sims" installed and running at ultra settings at 1440p with HDR:
  • I agree that FM23 looks better than anything else right now - the HDR-enabled lighting model and trackside detail just elevates it compared to everything else.
  • I'd class ACC as second (since it's got good trackside detail and a proper HDR implementation)
  • GRiD Legends is probably tied with or slightly ahead of ACC (again with good HDR), but it's not really a track racer in the same class as the rest. Still, it looks good.
  • After that we have AMS2/pCARS2 both looking last gen but not too bad.
  • AC might look better with mods for the lighting model, but in stock form it's looking old.
  • Raceroom and rFactor 2 likewise. They are very old now and graphically 2 generations behind in my estimation.

In terms of Xbox controller drivability, I can personally only drive accurately with FM23, GRiD games and ACC (although it feels a bit clinical/sterile like you said). I've dialled in AMS2 to be usable, but it's not fun. Raceroom, AC, pCARS 2 are all terrible with the controller no matter what I do (and don't get me started on the double tap = full lock in pCARS 2 which you can't disable!).

Of all those PC games, FM23 is just way more fun to drive with the controller than anything else. So much so that the only reason I still sometimes play ACC with the controller is because of how much better the AI is.
 
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You're missing out on a lot if you don't do that. As I said in an earlier post, both the '21 and '23 Cadillac LMP cars have bad stock tunes IMO and need fixing. I cannot believe that these cars in real life would have oversteer and understeer to the extent they do in the game. If you don't mess with anything else, start off just changing tyre pressures, ARBs, and the anti-squat.

I haven't tried it yet, but for the '23 Cadillac, you want to adjust the rear anti-squat to be high, because the car has masses of rear wheel grip, but is understeering on corner exit, so by reducing the weight transfer to the back on acceleration you keep more weight on the front wheels, letting it turn better. But if this causes it to lose rear wheel traction, you need to find a setting that balances the two elements.

Tyre pressures and ARBs generally work on the principle that softer is more grip, so for the '23 Cadillac I'd also try reducing front tyre pressure and ARB stiffness, and maybe increasing rear tyre pressure and ARB stiffness, but obviously don't go so far as to have it oversteering when all you're doing is trying to go around a corner.

Changes for the '21 would be the opposite of these, as it has the opposite problem.

Edit: After doing the Road America race quite a few times with the '21 Cadillac, I think the car is just pretty bad for pace relative to PI in stock form. I did eventually manage to get it handling quite nicely with the stock build, but it didn't really make my fastest lap times any faster, it just meant I was more consistently close to that lap time. The changes I had to make to the tuning parameters were very extensive. The best I was able to do against the max difficulty AI was to finish 2nd, 3 secs behind the winner, starting from 10th ish. But if you upgrade the rear tyre width, the car becomes much faster for no change in PI, and it's then easy to beat the AI.
It's not just in Forza but I don't do any tuning or setup work in any game. I just don't have the patience for it. Tweak, test, tweak again, test, tweak again, test, undo the previous tweak, test again, etc. etc. would drive me insane. I have such an explosive temper it would be nothing but constant yelling and screaming and throwing things. If all else fails I'll just reduce the difficulty level for race cars. That's what I have to do for Yas Marina anyway. For some reason the AI has a huge advantage there and just keeps pulling away.
 
It's not just in Forza but I don't do any tuning or setup work in any game. I just don't have the patience for it. Tweak, test, tweak again, test, tweak again, test, undo the previous tweak, test again, etc. etc. would drive me insane. I have such an explosive temper it would be nothing but constant yelling and screaming and throwing things. If all else fails I'll just reduce the difficulty level for race cars. That's what I have to do for Yas Marina anyway. For some reason the AI has a huge advantage there and just keeps pulling away.
I was the same for awhile, I never tuned anything on FM7 or any before it. But FM23 with its next level controller physics, different race cars that I like plus my now better understanding of cars and all the intricacies involved with tires, suspension etc, I forced myself to get into the tuning world...to a degree. Im not tuning every single aspect in the tuning guide nor do I always go back and double check because the differences I make in some of the things I tune make a nice difference alone. But the ones I frequent the most are tire pressure, gearing, anti roll bars, springs, suspension geometry, aero and every once in awhile brakes. And its honestly paid off on a number of cars shaving off half a second to several seconds depending on the car and track combo.
 
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I was the same for awhile, I never tuned anything on FM7 or any before it. But FM23 with its next level controller physics, different race cars that I like plus my now better understanding of cars and all the intricacies involved with tires, suspension etc, I forced myself to get into the tuning world...to a degree. Im not tuning every single aspect in the tuning guide nor do I always go back and double check because the differences I make in some of the things I tune make a nice difference alone. But the ones I frequent the most are tire pressure, gearing, anti roll bars, springs, suspension geometry, aero and every once in awhile brakes. And its honestly paid off on a number of cars shaving off half a second to several seconds depending on the car and track combo.
I've always thought that replacing parts/tuning has been a missing opportunity to educate regular gamers that are not car enthusiasts on how to improve the cars' performance/driving through a gaming mechanism.

As it is now (or has been forever), it's comparable to a RPG where the parts are treated like armor/weapons/buffs with increased or lower stats. So better stats=better performance, right? But that's not always the case.

I remember a scene from Days of Thunder where the crew chief explains tire usage/wear to cocky Cole Trickle (who should know about that, anyways), and then proposes him to do things in a certain way and then compare results. It is a dumb, but effective way to convey the audience about such technical issues, and as far as FM games, something that has not been explored yet.

And I'm not advocating for dry tutorials or license tests...
 
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It's not just in Forza but I don't do any tuning or setup work in any game. I just don't have the patience for it. Tweak, test, tweak again, test, tweak again, test, undo the previous tweak, test again, etc. etc. would drive me insane. I have such an explosive temper it would be nothing but constant yelling and screaming and throwing things. If all else fails I'll just reduce the difficulty level for race cars. That's what I have to do for Yas Marina anyway. For some reason the AI has a huge advantage there and just keeps pulling away.
On GT-cars or LM-cars that allready has a racesuspension you should at least take the time to check the tyreangles via the telemetry. see if the tyres temperature is ca equal inner vs outer. This can improve grip quite a bit. Then, after checking this out you can adjust forcedown. Wery basic but this is how every tuner once started up :banghead:
 
I've never thought FM's graphics look bad. Playing on PC, even with it only set to High quality and Ray Tracing off, it looks terrific to me. Very natural contrast and saturation, I think some people have got used to the artificial look that many other games have, and their brains now perceive it as normal. There was a similar thing when AoE 4 came out and people said the graphics were much worse than AoE 2. AoE 4 actually has far superior graphics, and if you only play AoE 4 for a while, then go back to AoE 2, it's AoE 2 that looks terrible.

With Nordschleife coming to the game, I've been driving Nordschleife with GT3 and LMP1 cars in all of FM, GT7, PC2 and AC, and IMO FM has the best driving feel of those 4 games with a controller. That's not to say the other games don't have their good points. The in-helmet view in PC2 is spectacular and the most immersive visual experience. AC has a more accurate track rendition (but from many years ago). But in the other games, I feel like I'm battling against the controller handling code as well as the physics, and it's hard to separate the two. AC exposes controller parameters like gamma and filter etc to the user, and these have a huge impact that greatly exceeds what you'd normally expect for the impact of tuning the car, so you can't really tell what is physics and what is controller handling code. Both combine to translate what you're doing with the controller into car movements. The one that overall does the best job of converting my controller actions into car behaviour, feeling the most natural and intuitive and like driving a real car, is FM. I can't drive Nordschleife in ACC yet, but I did re-visit ACC as well, and while the physics and controller handling are undoubtedly good, it is at the same time a bit clinical and sterile feeling compared to FM. It might be that it's realistic for a GT3 car to feel that way, I can't comment on that as I've never driven one in real life.


You're missing out on a lot if you don't do that. As I said in an earlier post, both the '21 and '23 Cadillac LMP cars have bad stock tunes IMO and need fixing. I cannot believe that these cars in real life would have oversteer and understeer to the extent they do in the game. If you don't mess with anything else, start off just changing tyre pressures, ARBs, and the anti-squat.

I haven't tried it yet, but for the '23 Cadillac, you want to adjust the rear anti-squat to be high, because the car has masses of rear wheel grip, but is understeering on corner exit, so by reducing the weight transfer to the back on acceleration you keep more weight on the front wheels, letting it turn better. But if this causes it to lose rear wheel traction, you need to find a setting that balances the two elements.

Tyre pressures and ARBs generally work on the principle that softer is more grip, so for the '23 Cadillac I'd also try reducing front tyre pressure and ARB stiffness, and maybe increasing rear tyre pressure and ARB stiffness, but obviously don't go so far as to have it oversteering when all you're doing is trying to go around a corner.

Changes for the '21 would be the opposite of these, as it has the opposite problem.

Edit: After doing the Road America race quite a few times with the '21 Cadillac, I think the car is just pretty bad for pace relative to PI in stock form. I did eventually manage to get it handling quite nicely with the stock build, but it didn't really make my fastest lap times any faster, it just meant I was more consistently close to that lap time. The changes I had to make to the tuning parameters were very extensive. The best I was able to do against the max difficulty AI was to finish 2nd, 3 secs behind the winner, starting from 10th ish. But if you upgrade the rear tyre width, the car becomes much faster for no change in PI, and it's then easy to beat the AI.
Hey, that’s an accuate reflection re controller inputs/feedback translating to car behaviour. I drove the Nord and could feel car and input accordingly to keep car hustiling track.

Part about visuals - I think my view is from how detailed the cars look in GT7, but point noted about saturation etc. I’m not using a monitor with HDR so perhaps that would change my perspective

Appreciate your response - and validating my thoughts on car feel.
 
Part about visuals - I think my view is from how detailed the cars look in GT7, but point noted about saturation etc. I’m not using a monitor with HDR so perhaps that would change my perspective
I agree the cars in GT7 look good, and in a sense cars in FH5 also look better than FM. But again I think those other games are actually unrealistic in that if I look outside at real cars, they don't have strong clear reflections, at least not in the conditions here today (quite bright sun, but a lot of cloud as well). They look a lot more like FM than FH5 or GT7, but I think those games look good to most people because they've intentionally dialled up elements that they've found cause people to think it looks good.

This is ACC (left) vs real life onboard footage (right). The real life footage has so much less contrast and saturation. It also shows another of my pet peeves about driving games, which is interiors being far too dark, partly because of the excessive contrast. I swear people would say it looks bad if someone released a driving game that looks exactly like the real life onboard footage, but that is kind of what has happened with FM.

acc rbr vs real life.jpg
 
I agree the cars in GT7 look good, and in a sense cars in FH5 also look better than FM. But again I think those other games are actually unrealistic in that if I look outside at real cars, they don't have strong clear reflections, at least not in the conditions here today (quite bright sun, but a lot of cloud as well). They look a lot more like FM than FH5 or GT7, but I think those games look good to most people because they've intentionally dialled up elements that they've found cause people to think it looks good.

This is ACC (left) vs real life onboard footage (right). The real life footage has so much less contrast and saturation. It also shows another of my pet peeves about driving games, which is interiors being far too dark, partly because of the excessive contrast. I swear people would say it looks bad if someone released a driving game that looks exactly like the real life onboard footage, but that is kind of what has happened with FM.

View attachment 1334827
I get what you mean but those two shots have different conditions, the real life shot is overcast, plus go-pro cameras don't capture the same detail and colour detail we see with our eyes.

Sunny conditions irl have bright, beautiful saturated colours, it's just current racing games do not nail this due to its complexity. I'm sure a proper next generation Gran Turismo sequel will show us what can be done without the PS4 holding it back. Also a proper UE5 racing sim with Lumen could look incredible.
 
I agree the cars in GT7 look good, and in a sense cars in FH5 also look better than FM. But again I think those other games are actually unrealistic in that if I look outside at real cars, they don't have strong clear reflections, at least not in the conditions here today (quite bright sun, but a lot of cloud as well). They look a lot more like FM than FH5 or GT7, but I think those games look good to most people because they've intentionally dialled up elements that they've found cause people to think it looks good.

This is ACC (left) vs real life onboard footage (right). The real life footage has so much less contrast and saturation. It also shows another of my pet peeves about driving games, which is interiors being far too dark, partly because of the excessive contrast. I swear people would say it looks bad if someone released a driving game that looks exactly like the real life onboard footage, but that is kind of what has happened with FM.

View attachment 1334827
Visual Consistency is a huge problem for FM. ACC, FH5 and GT7 all are very consistent in their style, which makes them quite pleasing to look at. FM on the other hand can look wrong/ have buggy aspects or even missing car parts at times. FM also feels very soft (and I have to crank resolution to 125% for it to be comparable to FH5 at native). While i agree that it is more natural, the lack of crisper road textures and ugly trees in the distance hurt the overall image. The red tint is still atrocious.
 
FM also feels very soft (and I have to crank resolution to 125% for it to be comparable to FH5 at native). While i agree that it is more natural, the lack of crisper road textures and ugly trees in the distance hurt the overall image. The red tint is still atrocious.

I use this to get around the soft issue, that plus 4k and DLAA looks very sharp.

It's still not as sharp as Horizon 5 at 4k with MSAA but it's a huge amount better than vanilla. I really do wish they kept the MSAA option in FM
 
I do apologize for swearing but does anybody have problems running this piece of **** game on Series X?

I reinstalled the game from game pass just to check out new "updates" and to play some Nord laps with friend but game keeps freezing and stuttering for good 1 to 3 seconds in menu, changing cars, paint etc. Then when i'm lobby it crashes to home screen after 1 or 2 races.

As i said I'm on Series X with video settings on just Performance.
 
I'm at difficulty level 5. The AI didn't break 2 minutes either.
I just tried the '23 Cadillac with a little bit of adjustment, just to show how bad the '21 is by comparison. With the '21 in stock form, but with tuning, it was a struggle for me to ever get under 1:56. You can massively improve the '21 by fitting wider rear tyres which doesn't change the PI, I did 1:54.5 with the stock tune and that one build change.

But... with the '23 car, I changed the restrictor and added ballast to get it to 948. You can't make that many build changes. Then I made a few tuning changes - maxed out front downforce, maxed out rear anti-squat. Softer front ARB, stiffer rear ARB. Softened it all up a bit to handle the concrete bits on corner exits a bit more smoothly. I didn't have to do endless iterations, I basically just made one set of changes, then a 2nd iteration to max out the front downforce. The result was 1:53.1 fastest lap at 948 vs 1:54.5 with the '21 at 950 after fitting wider rear tyres.

I still think you'll get a lot more out of the game if you're able to make just a few simple adjustments to correct the biggest problems in the stock tunes. I guess it will matter less after the car levels/points update, as you'll just be able to put someone else's tune on from the start.

fm road america lmp1 23 cadillac.jpg
 
I do apologize for swearing but does anybody have problems running this piece of **** game on Series X?

I reinstalled the game from game pass just to check out new "updates" and to play some Nord laps with friend but game keeps freezing and stuttering for good 1 to 3 seconds in menu, changing cars, paint etc. Then when i'm lobby it crashes to home screen after 1 or 2 races.

As i said I'm on Series X with video settings on just Performance.
I have no issues on Series X, also Performance mode. Did you try the usual fix of clearing the cache?
 
So this week's new Featured Tour (Ringers) had it's final event, the 911 series.

A tip for those about to start it: The final race of the series is around the full Ring (as you'd expect), however in my case the weather went from dry at the start to a torrential downpour 2-3 minutes from the end. I was unfortunately driving a 911 GT3RS on racing slicks, and there was absolutely no grip once the surface was wet. Sliding all over the place :D


P.S. The Cayman GT4 RS reward car race is also around the full Ring, but in the dry. I really like that car in stock form - it's similarly planted to the stock '21 GT3 and a lot of fun to drive.
 
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Works fine on my XSX, always has. Nothing wrong with the game, just your piece of ****.
Oh .... I see, sorry to hurt your feelings 🤦 it would be stupid to turn this into "casual insult fight" on internet but i'm genuinely surprised how some of my friends have more or less same experience on Series X yet here your FINE machine can play it perfectly smooth 🙂

I did try it again and only thing i'm glad it's solved now with updates is the career reset but have to say the visuals still look meh even on new OLED LG TV 🤔
 
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I just tried the '23 Cadillac with a little bit of adjustment, just to show how bad the '21 is by comparison. With the '21 in stock form, but with tuning, it was a struggle for me to ever get under 1:56. You can massively improve the '21 by fitting wider rear tyres which doesn't change the PI, I did 1:54.5 with the stock tune and that one build change.

But... with the '23 car, I changed the restrictor and added ballast to get it to 948. You can't make that many build changes. Then I made a few tuning changes - maxed out front downforce, maxed out rear anti-squat. Softer front ARB, stiffer rear ARB. Softened it all up a bit to handle the concrete bits on corner exits a bit more smoothly. I didn't have to do endless iterations, I basically just made one set of changes, then a 2nd iteration to max out the front downforce. The result was 1:53.1 fastest lap at 948 vs 1:54.5 with the '21 at 950 after fitting wider rear tyres.

I still think you'll get a lot more out of the game if you're able to make just a few simple adjustments to correct the biggest problems in the stock tunes. I guess it will matter less after the car levels/points update, as you'll just be able to put someone else's tune on from the start.

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But you made 6 changes if my count is right plus you had to know what all of that stuff means, I don't. Now one thing I didn't think about until last night was the tune shop. If someone in there might have something I could use I don't mind trying that. I think I did that occasionally before FM7.

Speaking of tuning last night I was cleaning up the mail file and saw where Turn 10 had suggested some changes for the 2018 AMG GT3 so I actually went into the car and tried to do them. One thing I couldn't do was to get to the exact numbers they suggested on the settings. When trying to move the slider it wouldn't settle on their numbers, it either had to be higher or lower. It would be better if you had a place to punch the numbers in instead of using the slider. But I had just driven the car without the tuning changes on Nurburgring GP so I tried it with the Turn 10 changes, I couldn't tell any difference in it and it wasn't any faster.

So this week's new Featured Tour (Ringers) had it's final event, the 911 series.

A tip for those about to start it: The final race of the series is around the full Ring (as you'd expect), however in my case the weather went from dry at the start to a torrential downpour 2-3 minutes from the end. I was unfortunately driving a 911 GT3RS on racing slicks, and there was absolutely no grip once the surface was wet. Sliding all over the place :D


P.S. The Cayman GT4 RS reward car race is also around the full Ring, but in the dry. I really like that car in stock form - it's similarly planted to the stock '21 GT3 and a lot of fun to drive.
I was in the '14 911 Turbo and when that rain started I got so mad. I was finishing that lap regardless of what happened, crashed or not. No way I was going to start it over like I usually do if I wreck. Going down the Dottinger Hohe I couldn't see anything. I had trouble making out the bridge as I got closer to it. I couldn't slow down much because I had a car right behind me. I was glad to finish that race. This was one of the only challenge series where I lost every race. I never got close to winning. Whatever that '12 911 GT2 RS or whatever it was was lightning quick. It would just sprint away on the starts.
 
Oh .... I see, sorry to hurt your feelings 🤦 it would be stupid to turn this into "casual insult fight" on internet but i'm genuinely surprised how some of my friends have more or less same experience on Series X yet here your FINE machine can play it perfectly smooth 🙂

I did try it again and only thing i'm glad it's solved now with updates is the career reset but have to say the visuals still look meh even on new OLED LG TV 🤔
Not that it may change your perception too much, but Dolby Vision in LG OLED's is better for the game's HDR presentation than just HDR10, also, keep it at 1,200 nits at least in the in-game calibration tool.
 
Not that it may change your perception too much, but Dolby Vision in LG OLED's is better for the game's HDR presentation than just HDR10, also, keep it at 1,200 nits at least in the in-game calibration tool.
Thanks i'll try to look in my TV settings to see if Dolby Vision is enabled 👍

Edit : looks like in these new LG Oled TV's Dolby Vision is a standard i've set it up with automatic pictures set up and the colors look much better now.
 
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