G29 Pedal Calibration

[Tidgney]

Hey ,

Wondering whether anyone knows the answer or whether it's even possible!? So I've recently had to switch back to my g29 due to my 2nd T300 starting to die on me... Good old Thrustmaster reliability... Anyway, it appears as though the brake pedal when pressed at 70% (ish) applies 100% braking and so I'm finding very specific trail braking a bit more tricky as I have 70% range rather than 100% range I'm used to... Does anyone know how to calibrate?

I've checked the options and couldn't find anything. I've tried unplugging and plugging back in while on track and then slamming the brake which again results in it going back to 70%.

Any help is much appreciated !

Cheers,

 

[super_gt]

Have you removed the rubber bumper?

Edit:if the answer is yes read this.

 

[Tidgney]

Have you removed the rubber bumper?

Edit:if the answer is yes read this.

Thanks for that link!

That's just silly, so I think I might have to invest in the Fanatec once it's supported! No way am I reinstalling that rubber bung it's as solid as a rock! I feared there was nothing I could do in GT and it appears the case

 

[opelgt1969]

Do you use the clutch pedal? If not swap it with your brake pedal. If you have a G25/G27 pedal set try using them. I'm still using my 12 year old G25 pedals, worked with my G27 wheel and G29. I have GTEYE spring in brake. I have my pedals inverted and too old/lazy to change them.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

@Tidgney this is a known issue with Logitech G pedals with GTS and there is no way to fix it as far as I know. I had this problem with my G25 pedals connected using Drivehub. Oddly, when I use the Ricmotech adapter to connect my G25 pedals to the T-GT wheel the deadzone is gone. So it looks like the problem is due to which wheel base GTS recognises, instead of the actual pedal hardware itself. Maybe it's PD's way of nerfing the competition so everyone will use Thrustmaster? Either way GT desperately needs deadzone adjustments for wheels. Hell even Forza has them.

Shame to hear your T300 is dying. I've been following your BOP tests and this might put a spanner in all the upcoming tests as your consistency will be affected by the non-linear pedals I assume?

 

[Tidgney]

Do you use the clutch pedal? If not swap it with your brake pedal. If you have a G25/G27 pedal set try using them. I'm still using my 12 year old G25 pedals, worked with my G27 wheel and G29. I have GTEYE spring in brake. I have my pedals inverted and too old/lazy to change them.

Ooo that's an idea maybe I can switch the spring at the same time and that'll solve the problem! I like that idea, and as I'm off I'll give that a shot ! In fact that might actually make might starts in Project Cars a bit better with the clutch releasing sooner haha!

@Tidgney this is a known issue with Logitech G pedals with GTS and there is no way to fix it as far as I know. I had this problem with my G25 pedals connected using Drivehub. Oddly, when I use the Ricmotech adapter to connect my G25 pedals to the T-GT wheel the deadzone is gone. So it looks like the problem is due to which wheel base GTS recognises, instead of the actual pedal hardware itself. Maybe it's PD's way of nerfing the competition so everyone will use Thrustmaster? Either way GT desperately needs deadzone adjustments for wheels. Hell even Forza has them.

Shame to hear your T300 is dying. I've been following your BOP tests and this might put a spanner in all the upcoming tests as your consistency will be affected by the non-linear pedals I assume?

Ye that seems rather bizarre! No way am I buying Thrustmaster again, 2 wheels dead within 3 years and I don't even use strong FFB... The funnier thing is, is that it's 6 different problems! 6! If it's the same problem I can understand either a bad manufacturing choice or a bad batch, but 6 different problems.... ye no thanks lol!

It might a little but not much, I did the top 24 superstars yesterday and I got my optimum to within .020 of my T300 car optimum so I think it'll be fine. I'm going to run the porsche at brands first to get see how close I get to my optimum I set in the BoP test but under the same amount of laps. In theory it should be the same or at least within a tenth. It's just learning the new foot position I need .

 

[Outspacer]

Do you use the clutch pedal? If not swap it with your brake pedal. If you have a G25/G27 pedal set try using them. I'm still using my 12 year old G25 pedals, worked with my G27 wheel and G29. I have GTEYE spring in brake. I have my pedals inverted and too old/lazy to change them.

I can see how swapping brake and clutch pedals (and wiring), and then configuring a game to use clutch for brake and brake for clutch would work... but I can't find that option in GTS. Am I missing something?

@Tidgney this is a known issue with Logitech G pedals with GTS and there is no way to fix it as far as I know. I had this problem with my G25 pedals connected using Drivehub. Oddly, when I use the Ricmotech adapter to connect my G25 pedals to the T-GT wheel the deadzone is gone. So it looks like the problem is due to which wheel base GTS recognises, instead of the actual pedal hardware itself. Maybe it's PD's way of nerfing the competition so everyone will use Thrustmaster? Either way GT desperately needs deadzone adjustments for wheels. Hell even Forza has them.

Shame to hear your T300 is dying. I've been following your BOP tests and this might put a spanner in all the upcoming tests as your consistency will be affected by the non-linear pedals I assume?

There's definitely an issue in that the G29 wheelbase doesn't seem to calibrate brake at all. I was using AC on PS4, so I don't know if there is an additional issue within GTS.

The Drivehub emulates a G29, doesn't it? So maybe it thinks it has to limit brake travel to match, but I can't see why. I guess you were using G25 wheel (?) and that should have calibrated the brake fine.

 

[opelgt1969]

I can see how swapping brake and clutch pedals (and wiring), and then configuring a game to use clutch for brake and brake for clutch would work... but I can't find that option in GTS. Am I missing something?



There's definitely an issue in that the G29 wheelbase doesn't seem to calibrate brake at all. I was using AC on PS4, so I don't know if there is an additional issue within GTS.

The Drivehub emulates a G29, doesn't it? So maybe it thinks it has to limit brake travel to match, but I can't see why. I guess you were using G25 wheel (?) and that should have calibrated the brake fine.

You don't change the wiring just the pedals, so the game has no ideal you did anything.

 

[Outspacer]

You don't change the wiring just the pedals, so the game has no ideal you did anything.

Then I don't see how this solves the deadzone problem...?

 

[opelgt1969]

Then I don't see how this solves the deadzone problem...?

The clutch pedal doesn't have the rubber bumper in it, yes the clutch only acts as off/on as clutch but when swapping the pedals they both have 0-100 travel. If you remove the rubber bumper it is what changed travel.

 

[Outspacer]

The clutch pedal doesn't have the rubber bumper in it, yes the clutch only acts as off/on as clutch but when swapping the pedals they both have 0-100 travel. If you remove the rubber bumper it is what changed travel.

Sorry, that makes no sense to me - without the bumper, the only thing different between the pedals is the spring. This problem isn't a defective pedal, it's the G29 wheelbase that does it, so I don't see any reason why swapping the clutch pedal with the brake will change anything.

 

[Tidgney]

For some reason I thought you maybe could assign the clutch as the brake in game turns out you can't so I'm actually thinking that changing this over as mentioned above won't work . But I don't even think it's the wheel base doing this, I've a sneaky suspicion it's a setting inside GT Sport itself that we can't access... As I say in Project Cars I can assign what is 100% and what is 0% same thing on any PC game due to the profiler.

Anyone know when the Fanatec will be supported?

 

[Outspacer]

But I don't even think it's the wheel base doing this, I've a sneaky suspicion it's a setting inside GT Sport itself that we can't access... As I say in Project Cars I can assign what is 100% and what is 0% same thing on any PC game due to the profiler.

It is for sure the wheelbase, at least with Assetto, and presumably GTS. I don't know what PCars is doing if that works - maybe it's sending a certain command to the wheel to get it to behave? And presumably the PC profiler does something similar? Otherwise, in the wheelbase's default state, any pedal change beyond about 75% is lost information, with no way to get it back.

 

[super_gt]

Anyone know when the Fanatec will be supported?

No,but let's hope that support will come with the update next week.

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Ye that seems rather bizarre! No way am I buying Thrustmaster again, 2 wheels dead within 3 years and I don't even use strong FFB... The funnier thing is, is that it's 6 different problems! 6! If it's the same problem I can understand either a bad manufacturing choice or a bad batch, but 6 different problems.... ye no thanks lol!

It might a little but not much, I did the top 24 superstars yesterday and I got my optimum to within .020 of my T300 car optimum so I think it'll be fine. I'm going to run the porsche at brands first to get see how close I get to my optimum I set in the BoP test but under the same amount of laps. In theory it should be the same or at least within a tenth. It's just learning the new foot position I need .

Yeah Thrustmaster reliability sucks. I thought I'd give them a chance with the T-GT but everyday I am literally dreading the day when it stops working. For such a premium priced item the build quality is just shocking. When this breaks I'll just go back to my trusted G25. 10 years old and still going strong, and not that much loss in FFB quality either. Fanatec is an alternative but console support is seriously lacking.

Good to know it doesn't affect your laptimes that much. I swear you aliens can drive one handed with both eyes closed and you will still be unreachable to us mortal folks

There's definitely an issue in that the G29 wheelbase doesn't seem to calibrate brake at all. I was using AC on PS4, so I don't know if there is an additional issue within GTS.

The Drivehub emulates a G29, doesn't it? So maybe it thinks it has to limit brake travel to match, but I can't see why. I guess you were using G25 wheel (?) and that should have calibrated the brake fine.

It's not just the brake, the throttle also has that 25% deadzone at the end of travel. I was using G25 wheel base and pedals but through Drivehub they are recognised as G29. Like I said above my only explanation is PD is really trying to get everyone aboard the TM ship as GT5/6 never had this issue. All wheels and pedals come fully calibrated out of the box.

 

[Outspacer]

It's not just the brake, the throttle also has that 25% deadzone at the end of travel. I was using G25 wheel base and pedals but through Drivehub they are recognised as G29. Like I said above my only explanation is PD is really trying to get everyone aboard the TM ship as GT5/6 never had this issue.

Isn't the throttle covered by the "Non-linear throttle" thread?

What we are talking about here with the G29 brake is not something PD do in-game (if they then cock it up further, that's something else).

All wheels and pedals come fully calibrated out of the box.

??? I know for a fact that T300 auto-calibrates the pedals to whatever range it sees, each time it's used. As in, it works fine with G29 pedals either with or without bung... even with my resistor-modded brake which limits the voltage range the wheel sees.

 

[GT_Alex74]

If you do not want to use the rubber stop, put a shorter solid one like a piece of hard wood, that's what I did on mine. I think the good lenght is 11 or 12 mm, not sure about that anymore, anyway it should be barely shorter than the rubber insert. You could also cut a bit of the rubber insert if you prefer to stll have a bit more resistance towards the end, but then you'll probably hit a bit of deadzone as well. I'll still try to source a G27 pedal set myself though.

 

[Tidgney]

If you do not want to use the rubber stop, put a shorter solid one like a piece of hard wood, that's what I did on mine. I think the good lenght is 11 or 12 mm, not sure about that anymore, anyway it should be barely shorter than the rubber insert. You could also cut a bit of the rubber insert if you prefer to stll have a bit more resistance towards the end, but then you'll probably hit a bit of deadzone as well. I'll still try to source a G27 pedal set myself though.

The problem with this is that I play PCars2 on PC and I prefer the full range of the pedal rather than still having 60-70% and removing the deadzone on PS4. With the g27 pedals does that remove the deadzone if connected to the g29 wheel?

 

[GT_Alex74]

The problem with this is that I play PCars2 on PC and I prefer the full range of the pedal rather than still having 60-70% and removing the deadzone on PS4. With the g27 pedals does that remove the deadzone if connected to the g29 wheel?

Yeah I feel you on that, I'd much prefer the full travel range as well. I know the G25/G27 doesn't have these issues, but I don't know if the G29 wheelbase will allow the full range on those pedals or still have this weird deadzone. Gonna buy a pedal set anyways since I'd like to build a rig with inverted pedals. If the G27 pedals won't do the trick, then I guess you're only left with the resistor trick.

 

[Tidgney]

I've got a g25 pedal set around somewhere (Sold my g27 ages ago) so I can actually give that a try if it all connects up ok! I'll let you know, if that doesn't work I'm going to open up the pedals/Wheel and see if there's any magic solution in there that I can spot! If that all fails I guess it'll be waiting and buying the Fanatec once supported or buying another T300 (Which I probably I'm never doing again).

 

[Outspacer]

I'll still try to source a G27 pedal set myself though.

With the g27 pedals does that remove the deadzone if connected to the g29 wheel?

Nope, the G25/27 pedals are electrically the same as G29, and the wheelbase will do the same thing.

The resistor trick is the only (cheap) solution that will allow full travel for GTS.

 

[Sean Renon]

I just bought one of these.
http://www.nixim.com/brake/

Will have it installed tonight and give it a go - I also have a G29 and wasn't a fan of the way the rubber felt in brake.
The Nixim mod is supposed to give you more feedback about where the brakes engage so maybe it will be easier to trail brake.

I'll update the thread tonight if you want with some feedback, keep in mind it's 9:30am EST for me right now and I won't have this installed until 6:30pm EST at the earliest.

 

[GT_Alex74]

Nope, the G25/27 pedals are electrically the same as G29, and the wheelbase will do the same thing.

The resistor trick is the only (cheap) solution that will allow full travel for GTS.

Well, thanks for the feedback, I'll still try to get one though, could be good to keep a stock pedal set for other games.

 

[super_gt]

@Tidgney read this.👍

 

[Tidgney]

@Tidgney read this.👍

Very interesting! Thank you!

 

[LeGeNd-1]

Isn't the throttle covered by the "Non-linear throttle" thread?

What we are talking about here with the G29 brake is not something PD do in-game (if they then cock it up further, that's something else).



??? I know for a fact that T300 auto-calibrates the pedals to whatever range it sees, each time it's used. As in, it works fine with G29 pedals either with or without bung... even with my resistor-modded brake which limits the voltage range the wheel sees.

I've never ventured into that thread so I don't know. I assume they are talking about the same issue as the one we're talking about here.

I know that you have to press the pedals all the way in the first time you boot up the game in GT5P/5/6 to fully calibrate the range. Once you do that everything works like a charm. As in you don't have to fiddle around with sensitivity/deadzone settings etc like with most other sims (PCARS 1 is the biggest sinner in this). With GTS though no matter what you do you still have that deadzone in throttle/brake. Since PD never made this mistake before in previous GTs, I assume this time it must be intentional. Otherwise it would've been patched already given the attention the issue has in the community. Adding to the fact as well that with a TM wheel base, there is no deadzone. Hence my comments about PD favouring TM and "nerfing" the competition.

 

[Outspacer]

I've never ventured into that thread so I don't know. I assume they are talking about the same issue as the one we're talking about here.

I know that you have to press the pedals all the way in the first time you boot up the game in GT5P/5/6 to fully calibrate the range. Once you do that everything works like a charm. As in you don't have to fiddle around with sensitivity/deadzone settings etc like with most other sims (PCARS 1 is the biggest sinner in this). With GTS though no matter what you do you still have that deadzone in throttle/brake. Since PD never made this mistake before in previous GTs, I assume this time it must be intentional. Otherwise it would've been patched already given the attention the issue has in the community. Adding to the fact as well that with a TM wheel base, there is no deadzone. Hence my comments about PD favouring TM and "nerfing" the competition.

Well I think they're talking about partly the same issue you're talking about... but that's not the one we're talking about here! This one is specifically about G29's brake issue when the bung is removed, which happens with any game that doesn't compensate for it (which they shouldn't have to).

I don't know which issues affect your setup. It sounds like the throttle is similar to that other thread. Your brake issue, I have no idea, but it could be something about the way the DriveHub emulates a G29, seeing as braking in GTS works reasonably for un-modified officially supported wheels including G29. I see no indication that PD have nerfed non-TM wheels.

 

[Tidgney]

Just an update with the g29 brake pedal for those interested, it appears as though you can't calibrate it on PC anymore so even on other games like Project Cars 2 the pedal just calibrates to that 70% range and then the rest is pure deadzone! Which is extremely frustrating and actually quite insane when you think about it! Sort of makes you wonder why they designed the pedal to travel that extra 30% that is impossible to use without adapting the pedal!

 

[OutlawQuadrnt]

Well I think they're talking about partly the same issue you're talking about... but that's not the one we're talking about here! This one is specifically about G29's brake issue when the bung is removed, which happens with any game that doesn't compensate for it (which they shouldn't have to).

I don't know which issues affect your setup. It sounds like the throttle is similar to that other thread. Your brake issue, I have no idea, but it could be something about the way the DriveHub emulates a G29, seeing as braking in GTS works reasonably for un-modified officially supported wheels including G29. I see no indication that PD have nerfed non-TM wheels.

They are related in that both throttle and brake inputs are different than in prior Gran Turismos. Some suggested the mapping between the two got swapped by mistake but I doubt that's the case.

I can say that I have been having enough issues with braking that I turned ABS to default because I was tired of lockups and slowing down far more than expected. If the G29 brakes work as described here, then it would explain a number of issues I've been having.

Like I mentioned before, if this was the way the pedal inputs have worked since the start, I'm stunned how little attention this apparent change has received. Has it really gone that unnoticed?

 

[Outspacer]

They are related in that both throttle and brake inputs are different than in prior Gran Turismos. Some suggested the mapping between the two got swapped by mistake but I doubt that's the case.

Whatever that is, it's GTS and not internal to the G29.

I can say that I have been having enough issues with braking that I turned ABS to default because I was tired of lockups and slowing down far more than expected. If the G29 brakes work as described here, then it would explain a number of issues I've been having.

Like I mentioned before, if this was the way the pedal inputs have worked since the start, I'm stunned how little attention this apparent change has received. Has it really gone that unnoticed?

Have you removed the bung from your G29 brake? I'm guessing most people don't, so they wouldn't notice the issue that this thread is about.