G29 Settings Thread

[VFOURMAX1]

You can check this clearly with any open wheel like the ktm , there is a delay for sure. Not big but significant and it can delay disturb your fast wheel inputs precison.
For example with the DS4 sensitivity at 7 have clearly a quicker answer. It seems that the DS4 on mouvement detection for the direction is even faster.

Have you tried your system with a different tv or connection?

I am running my system through a receiver with hdmi and from the receiver to the tv via hdmi and I do not feel or see any of the delay that you describe.

I do game on a plasma set which are known for having extremely low lag and response times which may have some bearing on my not noticing the same issues as you are seeing.

Some tv's are known for having higher lag for gaming. May want to try a different brand or model of tv and see if that cures your issue.
Of course usually the sets with the best and lowest specs for gaming are usually going to be those up towards the top of the model line that carry the higher prices.

Below is part of an online article that can explain it better perhaps.

2) Input Lag is the delay in time between a signal being input to a display and that same signal being displayed on-screen.
- In simple terms, the lower this number the better as it means the display will take less time to display what you are inputting (a typical example is when moving the mouse cursor on a display with high input lag, the cursor appears to lag slightly behind your own hand movement). Even milliseconds make a difference to those highly susceptible to input lag.
==> Input Lag tends to increase with advances in display technology

Input lag is caused (partially but significantly) by digital signal processing (post-processing of an input signal before it is displayed on screen).
TV manufacturers tend to develop newer and more processing-power demanding DSP techniques over time, which add to input lag when active.
For this reason, newer TV models tend to have higher input lag figures than their previous generation counterparts (however, nearly all TVs nowadays have a 'Game Mode" picture preset which disables most of the post-processing effects in order to reduce input lag).

To avoid confusion, it is important to note that the two are independent of each other.
A display can have a high response time but low input lag, and vice-versa. Ideally, you should be looking for a display with both a low response time and low input lag.

As mentioned previously in this thread, Plasma displays will beat nearly all LCD displays hands down when it comes to BOTH response time and input lag.

 

[praiano63]

Have you tried your system with a different tv or connection?

I am running my system through a receiver with hdmi and from the receiver to the tv via hdmi and I do not feel or see any of the delay that you describe.

I do game on a plasma set which are known for having extremely low lag and response times which may have some bearing on my not noticing the same issues as you are seeing.

Some tv's are known for having higher lag for gaming. May want to try a different brand or model of tv and see if that cures your issue.
Of course usually the sets with the best and lowest specs for gaming are usually going to be those up towards the top of the model line that carry the higher prices.

Below is part of an online article that can explain it better perhaps.

2) Input Lag is the delay in time between a signal being input to a display and that same signal being displayed on-screen.
- In simple terms, the lower this number the better as it means the display will take less time to display what you are inputting (a typical example is when moving the mouse cursor on a display with high input lag, the cursor appears to lag slightly behind your own hand movement). Even milliseconds make a difference to those highly susceptible to input lag.
==> Input Lag tends to increase with advances in display technology

Input lag is caused (partially but significantly) by digital signal processing (post-processing of an input signal before it is displayed on screen).
TV manufacturers tend to develop newer and more processing-power demanding DSP techniques over time, which add to input lag when active.
For this reason, newer TV models tend to have higher input lag figures than their previous generation counterparts (however, nearly all TVs nowadays have a 'Game Mode" picture preset which disables most of the post-processing effects in order to reduce input lag).

To avoid confusion, it is important to note that the two are independent of each other.
A display can have a high response time but low input lag, and vice-versa. Ideally, you should be looking for a display with both a low response time and low input lag.

As mentioned previously in this thread, Plasma displays will beat nearly all LCD displays hands down when it comes to BOTH response time and input lag.

Thanks for the tip.
My TV is a Samsung 40KU6000 , it was in HDR mode and i've switch to GAME MODE.
After a quick test , the lag seems smaller with a better response to inputs. Apex are more easy to nail for sure this way. Need to check better with other cars. I will do more test after the job.

 

[VFOURMAX1]

Thanks for the tip.
My TV is a Samsung 40KU6000 , it was in HDR mode and i've switch to GAME MODE.
After a quick test , the lag seems smaller with a better response to inputs. Apex are more easy to nail for sure this way. Need to check better with other cars. I will do more test after the job.

Glad that made a difference for you!

 

[VBR]

A setting of 5 or more on the Torque will produce discernible clipping on the G29, so 4 is the best setting.

As for sensitivity I have it on 10, any less will make it less sensitive & that's the last thing you want in a game where the FFB is too dull already.

My FFB settings = 4/10.


👍

 

[praiano63]

My TV is a Samsung 40KU6000 , it was in HDR mode and i've switch to GAME MODE.
After a quick test , the lag seems smaller with a better response to inputs. Apex are more easy to nail for sure this way. Need to check better with other cars. I will do more test after the job.

After some races on the Nurb 24H yesterday night , i can say that my wheel G29 is more responsive , easier to nail apex because of more precision and a lot easier to save an unexpected drift out corner or putting the rear wheel on the grass.
All this after setting my Samsung 40KU6000 picture settings in game mode in the way of HDR+ . The lag and answer time of the wheel inputs are notably shorter , i have now a great imediate precision to print a driving line.
I have also made with success 4 or 5 saves after loosing the rear end and not a single fail , the instinctive reaction is able to correct the car. Before this , due to the lag , i was doing all the wheel inputs totaly out of time due to the delay.
I'm not faster at all with this but substancially more regular lap after lap because my driving line was a lot more precise on this narrow track.

 

[Bruunz]

A setting of 5 or more on the Torque will produce discernible clipping on the G29, so 4 is the best setting.

As for sensitivity I have it on 10, any less will make it less sensitive & that's the last thing you want in a game where the FFB is too dull already.

My FFB settings = 4/10.


👍

What do you mean by clipping?

I've recently dropped max torque for mine from 7 to 5. At 7 the wheel had a more realistic weight to it and felt good compared to real life. I think it does hide the feedback at this point. I settled at 5 as i felt at 4 the wheel is too light and almost unnatural (like a luxury sedan).

Currently 5/10

All this after setting my Samsung 40KU6000 picture settings in game mode in the way of HDR+ . The lag and answer time of the wheel inputs are notably shorter , i have now a great imediate precision to print a driving line.

Input lag is something a lot of people don't consider when buying a TV. There is only a very short list of TVs that have a low input lag in any season. I spent a lot of time researching before a i bought mine (Sony KDL-55W900A). It is hard to find a TV that looks good, performs well and has features. Now there aren't many TVs that are Sub 30ms or even 40ms. A PC monitor solves this but is a different use case.

 

[VBR]

What do you mean by clipping? At 7...I think it does hide the feedback at this point.

You answered your own question there! The G29 is not a very powerful wheel, so when you send it FFB signals that are beyond it's capabilities to create it clips; i.e. it cannot produce heavy weight & other effects at the same time. With it set to 5 you do get lots of weight, but the other effects start to disappear. I can't feel that happening at 4, so this is the max I set mine too, although like you I would like to have more weight to the wheel (but not at the expense of everything else).

 

[j_13B]

After a few months away from the game I thought I'd play it today since it's probably my favourite. However, I've just jumped into a car and the FFB on my G29 feels ridiculously heavy. I've always played on 1/1 since I like a light feel to the wheel so I thought some of my settings had been changed: they haven't, they're still on 1/1. Has there been an update that affected the FFB recently?
The game is virtually unplayable because of how hard it is to turn my wheel. Any ideas?

Edit: just tried out Assetto Corsa. Feels completely normal. Absolutely gutted if I can't fix the FFB on GT Sport

 

[AshenGraey]

Has anyone notice a difference with the feedback when driving certain cars? For example, yesterday I was racing at Dragon Trail. I tried the RCZ and the feedback I was getting from wheel felt a bit light. Whenever I switched to the M6, it was the opposite and felt really heavy. I changed again and used the 911, surprisingly it felt lighter than the M6 but heavier than the RCZ. My last run was with the Mustang and that one felt exactly like the M6. I checked my settings and they were not changed so I'm wondering if that was a one off thing because I've never had that happened before.

 

[OutlawQuadrnt]

My wheel settings is something I continue to tinker with but I'm currently at 5/3. I prefer having heft in my wheel but my lap times say I'm faster using looser settings. Therefore, I may go back down to 4/3 or even my old 3/2 setting I used to run in GT6.

Certain cars require something far different. For example, I needed 10/2 for the X2014. That helped me minimize any sliding.

 

[kilesa4568]

The mention of game modes on TV's made me check (1080P) mine again. I knew it went into game mode automatically for sound and picture (turning off post processing) but I had a look for other settings, just in case. Lo and behold, I found another load of settings I'd not seen before and it had an AV game mode in it... Switched it on (60Hz) and it's much better. I think it was running at 50Hz previously with post processing.

I use 1-10 for my settings. Nice and easy on the arms for a long session and I seem to be able feel the feedback OK. Not as strong as I'd like but it'll do.

 

[racer_xis]

does anyone use the clutch-brake adapter?

 

[vvise]

However, I've just jumped into a car and the FFB on my G29 feels ridiculously heavy. I've always played on 1/1 since I like a light feel to the wheel so I thought some of my settings had been changed: they haven't, they're still on 1/1. Has there been an update that affected the FFB recently?
The game is virtually unplayable because of how hard it is to turn my wheel. Any ideas?

This has happened to me 2 or 3 times after going into rest mode or suspending the game and coming back in. Usually unplugging the USB and plugging it back in then making sure you don't touch the wheel while it re-calibrates fixes the issue for me. Or you can just restart the PS4 and relaunch the game and the issue should be gone.

 

[VFOURMAX1]

This has happened to me 2 or 3 times after going into rest mode or suspending the game and coming back in.

I second this as I have experienced exactly the same thing multiple times, I just close the game application and relaunch and all is back to normal

 

[gapper59]

My old G29 crapped out so I bought a new one which had a malfunctioning left paddle,
so I exchanged it for another new one that I tried for the first time on 7/12.

The force feed back settings worked fine on the first two, but the latest one doesn't
respond at all when I try changing the settings. It feels like all the settings are up to10,
real sluggish and slow to respond. The settings change but not the resistance.

Normally it wouldn't be that big of a deal but I got a bad Rotator-Cuff, so its pretty painful
trying to make quick moves with all the force it takes to move the wheel. To add insult to
injury I've been pretty much eaten alive in Sport-Mode in the last few days, even more so
than usual. Really frustrating.

So, has anyone else had this problem?
And does it sound more like its yet another defective G29, or maybe something to do
with the game?

Also, I'm getting resistance in the wheel when I'm not racing, but still in the game.
I don't remember the other 2 wheels doing that, does that sound right?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Edit...Never mind. I changed ports and its working, feel better now

 

[MrStinkyBug]

I have recently purchased a G29 and have been trying to get used to it for about a month now. I have used a DS4 since launch and race at a pretty high level, I am currently leading Ford is the manufactures cup in the Americas region. I got the wheel to try and reach that 'alien' level and generally have more fun playing the game.

At this point, I'm not at all close to lap times I can put down with the controller and I think a lot of that has to do with my settings. I cannot find a good setup. I don't know if this is just me put I can't feel anything even on max sensitivity and feedback. I ran 7/10/10 yesterday with the Megane Trophy daily race and couldn't even feel the kerbs. I have no sense of limit or the boundaries capable of the car. I don't know if this is normal and something I have to get used to or if I am just doing something wrong.

For context, I used a G27 on GT6 and I remember being able to feel every little bump in the road and being able to overturn the front wheels. I have no sense of that in GTS.

I would appreciate any help offered.

 

[xxxman1]

My old G29 crapped out so I bought a new one which had a malfunctioning left paddle,
so I exchanged it for another new one that I tried for the first time on 7/12.

The force feed back settings worked fine on the first two, but the latest one doesn't
respond at all when I try changing the settings. It feels like all the settings are up to10,
real sluggish and slow to respond. The settings change but not the resistance.

Normally it wouldn't be that big of a deal but I got a bad Rotator-Cuff, so its pretty painful
trying to make quick moves with all the force it takes to move the wheel. To add insult to
injury I've been pretty much eaten alive in Sport-Mode in the last few days, even more so
than usual. Really frustrating.

So, has anyone else had this problem?
And does it sound more like its yet another defective G29, or maybe something to do
with the game?

Also, I'm getting resistance in the wheel when I'm not racing, but still in the game.
I don't remember the other 2 wheels doing that, does that sound right?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Edit...Never mind. I changed ports and its working, feel better now

Can you tell me more about the malfunctioning left paddle? Do you mean the brake pedal?

My G29 brake pedal works not well recently. Always give me a little bit, a little bit, a little bit brake even though I am full throttle on the straight. What i need to to is to hit the brake once to cancel that "little bit". It really hurts my lap time especially during qualification in FIA race. Just wonder if I need to buy a new one. Anyone encounter same problem?

 

[kilesa4568]

I have recently purchased a G29 and have been trying to get used to it for about a month now. I have used a DS4 since launch and race at a pretty high level, I am currently leading Ford is the manufactures cup in the Americas region. I got the wheel to try and reach that 'alien' level and generally have more fun playing the game.

At this point, I'm not at all close to lap times I can put down with the controller and I think a lot of that has to do with my settings. I cannot find a good setup. I don't know if this is just me put I can't feel anything even on max sensitivity and feedback. I ran 7/10/10 yesterday with the Megane Trophy daily race and couldn't even feel the kerbs. I have no sense of limit or the boundaries capable of the car. I don't know if this is normal and something I have to get used to or if I am just doing something wrong.

For context, I used a G27 on GT6 and I remember being able to feel every little bump in the road and being able to overturn the front wheels. I have no sense of that in GTS.

I would appreciate any help offered.

There's a lot of feedback clipping if you run with too much torque. 1-4 seems to be the go to level as there's diminishing returns from the feedback the higher up you go. As outlaw said above, different cars sometimes need different settings (possibly GTS's soft lock for different cars) but with the G29 not being the strongest for feedback, you have to keep the torque relatively low to feel what's happening.

I may be wrong on this but I believe the controller sensitivity only applies to the game pad. I'm pretty sure there's no difference between -2 or 7 on my wheel anyway.

 

[super_gt]

My G29 brake pedal works not well recently. Always give me a little bit, a little bit, a little bit brake even though I am full throttle on the straight. What i need to to is to hit the brake once to cancel that "little bit". It really hurts my lap time especially during qualification in FIA race. Just wonder if I need to buy a new one. Anyone encounter same problem?

Try this.

 

[VBR]

I have recently purchased a G29 and have been trying to get used to it for about a month now. I have used a DS4 since launch and race at a pretty high level, I am currently leading Ford is the manufactures cup in the Americas region. I got the wheel to try and reach that 'alien' level and generally have more fun playing the game.

At this point, I'm not at all close to lap times I can put down with the controller and I think a lot of that has to do with my settings. I cannot find a good setup. I don't know if this is just me put I can't feel anything even on max sensitivity and feedback. I ran 7/10/10 yesterday with the Megane Trophy daily race and couldn't even feel the kerbs. I have no sense of limit or the boundaries capable of the car. I don't know if this is normal and something I have to get used to or if I am just doing something wrong.

For context, I used a G27 on GT6 and I remember being able to feel every little bump in the road and being able to overturn the front wheels. I have no sense of that in GTS.

I would appreciate any help offered.

I used a Logitech G25 on GT5 Prologue, GT5, & GT6. The FFB in GT6 was extremely detailed & was the best that PD have ever produced. GT Sport was made for the new official wheel, the T-GT, & that wheel has a tactile transducer built into it. Because they dialed the FFB in for that wheel, other wheels that have no built in bass shakers feel numb as a result. The FFB in GT Sport pales in comparison to GT6 for non T-GT users, & there has been no word from PD if they intend to improve it. It is so bad imho, that after 16 years of using Logitech FFB wheels in GT games, I've gone back to exclusively using the controller for this game!

However, if you must use your wheel the best setting is Torque on 4, & Sensitivity on 10. Anything above 4 & you'll get clipping & what little detail there is will be all but lost.

 

[xxxman1]

Try this.

Thanks I will try it later

 

[OutlawQuadrnt]

There's a lot of feedback clipping if you run with too much torque. 1-4 seems to be the go to level as there's diminishing returns from the feedback the higher up you go. As outlaw said above, different cars sometimes need different settings (possibly GTS's soft lock for different cars) but with the G29 not being the strongest for feedback, you have to keep the torque relatively low to feel what's happening.

I may be wrong on this but I believe the controller sensitivity only applies to the game pad. I'm pretty sure there's no difference between -2 or 7 on my wheel anyway.

I just can't shake the nagging sensation that controller sensitivty actually does something to wheels. Every time I move that down to -2, I'm faster. Could just be a placebo effect but if it works, it works.

However, if you must use your wheel the best setting is Torque on 4, & Sensitivity on 10. Anything above 4 & you'll get clipping & what little detail there is will be all but lost.

That's a setting that I've never even been close to using so I had to try it out. I can certainly make it work to where I may dare give it a full go in an FIA race. It's been a struggle finding something that feels okay both in my public lobbies and in FIA races.

 

[MrCooper]

I may be wrong on this but I believe the controller sensitivity only applies to the game pad. I'm pretty sure there's no difference between -2 or 7 on my wheel anyway.

It definitely has an effect, affecting how much one has to turn the wheel for a certain steering angle (the higher the value, the less one has to turn the wheel). E.g. it's very obvious with the kart. Less so with other cars, but I still found 7 too much for e.g. the Gr. 2 NSX, so I currently have it at 5.

 

[kilesa4568]

Wouldn't it override the DoR though? For the sake of argument, if a quarter turn on 0 is a true quarter turn, putting it on 7 wouldn't equate to a quarter turn would it? Maybe I'm looking at it all wrong from my old DS4 usage as there's a huge difference between 0 and 1 on that.

I looked at so many threads with differing opinions on it, I gave up looking.

 

[MrCooper]

Just try it out yourself: Set it to one extreme, do at least one time trial lap, then (without quitting the time trial session) set it to the other extreme. The difference should be obvious, in particular on tracks with slow corners.

 

[ktsbence]

My old G29 crapped out so I bought a new one which had a malfunctioning left paddle,
so I exchanged it for another new one that I tried for the first time on 7/12.

The force feed back settings worked fine on the first two, but the latest one doesn't
respond at all when I try changing the settings. It feels like all the settings are up to10,
real sluggish and slow to respond. The settings change but not the resistance.

Normally it wouldn't be that big of a deal but I got a bad Rotator-Cuff, so its pretty painful
trying to make quick moves with all the force it takes to move the wheel. To add insult to
injury I've been pretty much eaten alive in Sport-Mode in the last few days, even more so
than usual. Really frustrating.

So, has anyone else had this problem?
And does it sound more like its yet another defective G29, or maybe something to do
with the game?

Also, I'm getting resistance in the wheel when I'm not racing, but still in the game.
I don't remember the other 2 wheels doing that, does that sound right?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Edit...Never mind. I changed ports and its working, feel better now

Which port did you use before and which one did you switch to? I have the same problem tho. Except that it's my first G29.

 

[WheelmanSteve]

I'm a longtime Logitech user- had a G25 since it came out, and played it on everything, right up to when I got my G29. I want to clarify that my issue here is NOT with Logitech, but with PD's implementation of Logitech's controller. Short answer? For GTS, the G29 is like a $300 DS4. It was much better in the beta. (I was there...)Having said that, I do think the Steering Sensitivity has an effect- I find it more useful on higher spec full race cars. If you find yourself countersteering a lot, take the sensitivity down by 1-2. (If you're only going to play GTS, and you haven't bought a G29, don't.)

 

[OutlawQuadrnt]

However, if you must use your wheel the best setting is Torque on 4, & Sensitivity on 10. Anything above 4 & you'll get clipping & what little detail there is will be all but lost.

On the record, I did end up running this setting with sensitivity at -2 for an FIA race. I also used it for some FIA practice at Gardens and Nurburgring GP.

So far, it's the best setting I've used for GTS. Not perfect but I'm working more with the wheel than fighting it.

 

[VBR]

On the record, I did end up running this setting with sensitivity at -2 for an FIA race. I also used it for some FIA practice at Gardens and Nurburgring GP.

So far, it's the best setting I've used for GTS. Not perfect but I'm working more with the wheel than fighting it.

The first sensitivity setting is for controllers only (DS4's). The other two setting are for FFB wheels only.

 

[gapper59]

Which port did you use before and which one did you switch to? I have the same problem tho. Except that it's my first G29.

Started with 2, then went to 1. After that went back to 2 and it's fine now