GDII's SW20 MR2

  • Thread starter GDII
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Not an update on the MR2 but with the cars we own.

The daily driver was an NZ built 1990 EP81 Toyota Starlet 5 speed manual. Unfortunately it was getting worn out and not the best car for future proofing. Being a 3 door and rather small it struggled with more than 2 people. 1.3l 2E Carburetor engine and weighing in at 720kg it was a great car and lots of fun. Ran on very little petrol but the engine was getting a bit tired. It always started fine once I fixed a few ignition problems but we decided to move it on and replace it.















Manual choke still. Something most people don't know about. The car even has a specific starting procedure covered in the owners manual.

Pull choke out fully
Depress throttle pedal fully once
Turn key to start while applying some throttle
Once it starts after a short period push the choke in to the first click
Once engine temperature is up to 1/4 push chock in fully.

It actually has 3 positions where pulling it right out would allow the car to start in colder temps but soon after the car would struggle so push it back in a little bit.




This little car did 40,000km in it's first year and is now 26 years old with 190,000km.
 
The replacement car is a 2005 DY3 Mazda Demio in Iris Blue Mica. 43,000km Japanese import. We are the first owners in NZ. Extremely tidy inside and out.

The interior is perfect except for some wear on the drivers seat but no holes or potential holes in the bolsters.

The outside is very tidy almost like it was never driven in the rain. At less than 4,000km per year I guess it's expected. I suspect it was last owned in Tokyo. Not sure on how many owners but it could easily have been only one.

Engine is very clean on the inside and no oil leaks at all. It's quite powerful for a 1.3 (1,348cc). It's a really nice car to drive.

Apart from the ruined wheel covers it's in great condition. It will be getting similar treatment to the MR2 with black trim and paint protection. This will make it a lot nicer.


Joins the SW20 in the garage now.












Sat Nav/TV/Music but as it's Japanese only there isn't really any way to convert it to NZ.

It also has a toll card reader and ariels attached to the window. I will probably remove it as it's no use here with our one(?) toll road.

 
My first car had a manual choke. It was an 86 Corolla hatch. That car was amazing, just like all first cars I suppose. I miss that little thing.

That colour on the Mazda is rad 👍
 
My first car had a manual choke. It was an 86 Corolla hatch. That car was amazing, just like all first cars I suppose. I miss that little thing.

That colour on the Mazda is rad 👍
The Starlet had a similar engine to my first car which also had the carburetor 2E but had auto cold start idle control. Failed in the end so cold starting and idle sucked. Both 1990 cars but the EE90 in the end had an '88 engine swap.

I'm not sure if there is any pink in the Demio paint, the sky was turning pink so that's where that colour comes from. It's an interesting colour but being a used car the colour came last. It's manual so that took preference over most of the other things.
 
I never posted up the information that I collected about the wheels I have before I mounted tires to the RGDs.

Not 100% accurate because I used bathroom scales for the wheels but close enough.

The stock GEN2/3/4 15s are
15x6+45 7.8kg + nuts x5 450g 8.25kg all up (includes centre cap)
15x7+45 8.4kg + nuts x5 580g 8.98kg all up (includes centre cap)

Here's where things get odd. I'm sure the 9" are heavier based on lifting them but the scales don't read that.
17x8+37 8.1kg + nuts x5 220g + 30g centre cap 8.35kg all up
17x9+29 8.1kg + nuts x5 220g + 30g centre cap 8.35kg all up

So 34.46kg for GEN2/3/4 15s fitted to car and 33.4kg RGD fitted to car. Tires will push this weight saving out but as the wheels are 2" wider and 2" larger in diameter it's not bad. The nuts help change the weight readings as they are far smaller. 17x40mm instead of the 21x67/50mm longer more solid nuts. The Advans are still steel nuts, not aluminium so can handle the abuse of removing them constantly. Mostly for cleaning the wheels. There goes my OCD again.... :boggled:

The BBS RG097 wheels I have been using for over 7 years are
15x6.5+45 5.4kg + nuts x5 240g 5.64kg all up (no centre caps)
22.56kg fitted to the car so significantly lighter than both the GEN2/3/4 and RGDs however the fitment and tire choice far outweighs this weight 'disadvantage' in handling feel and response. Sure the rotational mass has increased from more weight and larger diameter tires so acceleration suffers but cornering is so much better. Just add a turbo and that problem will go away. :mischievous: I know, all talk no do but good things take time.

Fun Fact No.1
The tyres on the wheels weigh more than the wheels themselves. I don't know the exact weight of the RE003s but other tyre manufactures who have provided tyre weights show about 9.5kg for 215 and 10.9kg for 245.

Fun Fact No2.
Tire width has increased from the factory 40mm in the front and 80mm :eek: in the rear!
Wheels have increased 2" in width and 3" in diameter front and rear. So that's 4" more width overall front and 4" more rear.

Wouldn't be much of a post without photos.

The gravel basher


The failed offset yet my favorite photo


The perfect setup
 
New parts arrived for the MR2. Hubcentric rings to go from the 60.1mm hub to 73.1mm wheels.

These fit well over the hub but are a bit small for the wheel. Only by a small amount like 0.2mm but not enough to be a problem. I am not 100% sure if these will actually do anything useful for the wheels as I had no vibration problems and the lug nuts already centre the wheel on the hub.




I think I got the wrong car... @fortbo


Test fit on the hub. They just need a light tap to make them sit flush on the brake disc.




Without the ring


Ring in place but very easy to remove from the wheel. So they are mounted to the car rather than the wheel.


Final placement over the disc.


While I had the wheels off I installed the centre caps I bought with the wheels. The silver bag has a fixative for the cap to the wheel to ensure they don't come off easily.


Japanese instructions. Google translate helps a bit. We got some good laughs from it such as 'nail in the wheel'. I hope not!


Applying fixative. Clear and quick drying.




Placing the cap carefully so not to smear fixative everywhere.


The view from the back once installed.


Final install with the Advan Racing logo parallel with the Advan Racing wheel sticker as per the instructions. This is how I prefer them anyway.




Wheel chock I collected to complete my tool kit. I was offered some OEM Toyota 8/10 and 12/14 spanners by @SVX too so grabbed those. Thanks man!! Last thing I need to complete the OEM tool kit is the Philips/flat head interchangeable screw driver.


Looks much nicer like this with the caps on. Finishes the wheels off very well.


Before without the caps.





Bonus photos





Wheel fitment is spot on. Can't really get anymore flush than that.



 
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Yep, looks freaking awesome dude. When I went out to find hubcentric rings for mine I couldn't find any the perfect size so I had to get ones the next size up (correct inside diameter, larger outside diameter) and then file them down to the right size (they are nylon).

Yours look way better :lol:

You take a lot more effort in looking after your cars appearance than I do. I used to be a lot more careful but lately I've just started treating it as a race car and resigned myself to the fact that it isn't perfect and that doing track days is going to shake the crap out of it and I'm going to get rubber all over the panels and I kind of stopped caring as much. I like seeing the effort you go to.
 
Yep, looks freaking awesome dude. When I went out to find hubcentric rings for mine I couldn't find any the perfect size so I had to get ones the next size up (correct inside diameter, larger outside diameter) and then file them down to the right size (they are nylon).

Yours look way better :lol:

You take a lot more effort in looking after your cars appearance than I do. I used to be a lot more careful but lately I've just started treating it as a race car and resigned myself to the fact that it isn't perfect and that doing track days is going to shake the crap out of it and I'm going to get rubber all over the panels and I kind of stopped caring as much. I like seeing the effort you go to.
I'm not too worried about it as I'm not getting issues. I'm sure these will help if anything does feel like going wrong. Aluminium was a better choice for me as nylon seems too soft and not as shiny :sly:

I have lots of time to look after the car. You have a kid and a house to look after. My car only sees the road so it's easier to keep looking good. Track cars do get hammered more so it's understandable that yours won't look as good. However saying that your still looks awesome and super shiny in the photos. :) Plus yours has far more cooler engine mods.
 
I'm not too worried about it as I'm not getting issues. I'm sure these will help if anything does feel like going wrong. Aluminium was a better choice for me as nylon seems too soft and not as shiny :sly:

I have lots of time to look after the car. You have a kid and a house to look after. My car only sees the road so it's easier to keep looking good. Track cars do get hammered more so it's understandable that yours won't look as good. However saying that your still looks awesome and super shiny in the photos. :) Plus yours has far more cooler engine mods.
3 kids :)
 
If you're interested, I have two of those factory reversible screwdrivers if you'd like one. I always check for them in junkyards and toss em in my tool bag whenever I find one, usually gone but have gotten lucky and found some free tools on several occasions.

Assuming this is the same one? I'll try and clean it up a bit but it's in good shape.
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Thanks for the offer, looks in great condition. I'm sure I can find one here. It's more for the collection rather than a need to have.
Unless you can source some red rear corner markers with the light holes from the SW20 then you could send it over together. Not much point sending over just a screw driver.
 
Thanks for the offer, looks in great condition. I'm sure I can find one here. It's more for the collection rather than a need to have.
Unless you can source some red rear corner markers with the light holes from the SW20 then you could send it over together. Not much point sending over just a screw driver.

Ah that's basically what I have them for, so I don't mind sending one. Got it for free anyway.

That's actually what I was thinking, if I find them I'll throw it in. I looked around a little bit and didn't find any part outs but I'll keep looking. Friend said there was one in a junkyard but likely long gone. And just so I know for sure, what all are you looking for? You need the lenses themselves, the sockets, and the harness?
 
I'm just after the lenses and maybe the bulb holders with some of the loom. The problem is that the loom is part of the whole body loom so if you wanted to get a loom it would have to be cut. I think you guys call the loom the harness?

The one on the left is the type I am after. These are from the early 91-92 cars. The one on the right is for the revised lights but I don't have those.
RearSideMarkersRev2-3Diff.jpg


Should look like this on the back with the hole for the light. Mine has the round prostitution for the bulb hole but no hole. Plus I like the red as it;s a bit different. Easy to swap out between the two types.
81750-17040RedUSSpecRearDummylensB.jpg


To remove them put your fingers on the back of the vertical bump and and push towards the front of the car. Should release the metal spring clip and fall out.
 
Sorry to interrupt, just putting this here and letting you know I'm a proud owner of an MR2 as well! :D

But on topic, looks great dude. Although I'm not a fan of the color, it looks cool on its own, like a Ferrari. As I understood MR2 was partially inspired from a Ferrari and has a part kit to make it look like one even more.
 
Sorry to interrupt, just putting this here and letting you know I'm a proud owner of an MR2 as well! :D

But on topic, looks great dude. Although I'm not a fan of the color, it looks cool on its own, like a Ferrari. As I understood MR2 was partially inspired from a Ferrari and has a part kit to make it look like one even more.
Not interrupting at all! :)
Nice green SW20 you have there. I like your front parking lights with the clear centre section.
Red isn't everyone's colour but it is mine. However I do remember saying, "I'll never buy an SW20 but if I did I'd not get a red T-Top"..... :crazy: How things change.

I don't know what the SW20 was based off if anything. Sure the Ferrari F355 has similar styling cues but they are very different cars. The F355 is quite a lot more square in it's design where the SW20 is very curved.
 
I'm just after the lenses and maybe the bulb holders with some of the loom. The problem is that the loom is part of the whole body loom so if you wanted to get a loom it would have to be cut. I think you guys call the loom the harness?

The one on the left is the type I am after. These are from the early 91-92 cars. The one on the right is for the revised lights but I don't have those.
RearSideMarkersRev2-3Diff.jpg


Should look like this on the back with the hole for the light. Mine has the round prostitution for the bulb hole but no hole. Plus I like the red as it;s a bit different. Easy to swap out between the two types.
81750-17040RedUSSpecRearDummylensB.jpg


To remove them put your fingers on the back of the vertical bump and and push towards the front of the car. Should release the metal spring clip and fall out.

Ahh right, I'll see if I can find a set. But yes, we'd call the loom the wiring harness. I'll see if there's a connector somewhere that can be disconnected so I don't mess with the harness too much, but if it's like my AW11 the harness in the trunk also connects to all the other lights so I'll probably have to cut it.

Sounds simple enough to remove, my Celica has a similar setup and I'm putting corner lights from a NZ Celica onto mine thanks to @SVX. I'll likely have to find one being parted out so I'll have to do a bit of searching, will let you know what I find.

--

@TumeK5 Nice car! Dig the color, nice change of pace for an MR2.
 
According to the wiring diagrams I have there is no connector at all. The wire goes from the back of the car right to the front and is hard wired into the junction box at the dash. Don't spend too much time looking as it was just an idea to get them from the US. I used to be able to buy them new but seems they are sold out.

Yeah I've seen the Celica lights @SVX got for you. The fronts are clear where yours are orange and the rears are an orange vent rather than a red light. It's really odd that in the US the SW20 had orange front corner lights that also doubled as the turn signals. So when the lights were on they would then flash with the turn signal then go back to being on once the turn signal went off. The JDM cars just have them as turn signals. It's all wired differently. From comparing the SW20 to the ST18* Celicas the US market must have very different rules for light colours and positions. Orange front markers and red rear markers. The JDM SW20 and ST18* Celicas don't even have rear marker lights.
 
It's really odd that in the US the SW20 had orange front corner lights that also doubled as the turn signals. So when the lights were on they would then flash with the turn signal then go back to being on once the turn signal went off. The JDM cars just have them as turn signals. It's all wired differently. From comparing the SW20 to the ST18* Celicas the US market must have very different rules for light colours and positions. Orange front markers and red rear markers. The JDM SW20 and ST18* Celicas don't even have rear marker lights.

Not so odd..

US spec cars need side markers (amber up front, red out back). It's also required that the front turn signals light up orange as driving lights when the lights are on, so that's why they cut out another bulb in the same turn. Also side markers can be done that way, for instance the Celica instead of add-on lights they use on the SW20 where JDM and euro cars have a plastic body molding.

In Japan the requirement is that all turn lights are amber and there you cannot have a side marker light. The same goes for Europe, turns can be clear or smoked but side marker lights were not approved until relatively recently. Now you see it on new BMWs and Volvos for instance. Also, in sections of Europe you need daytime driving/parking lights that are white; which is why TumeK5's SW20 has white inserts in the orange turn signals.. :) I'm a super geek..

Also I have to just chime in and say I really love this thread and your car. There are two kinds of people, the ones that will hack something up and hope for the best and the kind that if they do something, they do it properly. Really refreshing to see how well thought out you go on about modifying this car.. So early 90s it hurts.. The attention to detail is amazing, even your dailies are super cool (I have a thing for small Japanese econoboxes). Also really cool to see pictures from New Zealand; scenic pics are appreciated; best regards us on the quite opposite side of the planet. :)
 
Not so odd..

US spec cars need side markers (amber up front, red out back). It's also required that the front turn signals light up orange as driving lights when the lights are on, so that's why they cut out another bulb in the same turn. Also side markers can be done that way, for instance the Celica instead of add-on lights they use on the SW20 where JDM and euro cars have a plastic body molding.

In Japan the requirement is that all turn lights are amber and there you cannot have a side marker light. The same goes for Europe, turns can be clear or smoked but side marker lights were not approved until relatively recently. Now you see it on new BMWs and Volvos for instance. Also, in sections of Europe you need daytime driving/parking lights that are white; which is why TumeK5's SW20 has white inserts in the orange turn signals.. :) I'm a super geek..

Also I have to just chime in and say I really love this thread and your car. There are two kinds of people, the ones that will hack something up and hope for the best and the kind that if they do something, they do it properly. Really refreshing to see how well thought out you go on about modifying this car.. So early 90s it hurts.. The attention to detail is amazing, even your dailies are super cool (I have a thing for small Japanese econoboxes). Also really cool to see pictures from New Zealand; scenic pics are appreciated; best regards us on the quite opposite side of the planet. :)
I guess odd was the wrong word to use. Learning about different countries car rules is cool. Thanks for that block of useful information.

Thanks for your kind words. I guess I fit into the latter category of car modifying. I need to have things exactly right, this is also reflected in my line of work being an Architectural Technician (Draftsman).
I like some of the Japanese small cars too. Main reason for getting them in this size is we don't need anything big.

@SVX and I washed the Demio and cleaned the interior plus all the door jambs on Sunday. The car was generally very clean but now most of the dirt from around the doors is gone. No photos as it wasn't really easy to tell what was done. Next thing to do is clean the engine bay a bit but that is also very clean so easy to do. Do any work to the paint to remove scratches and protect it like the MR2 with all my detailing products. There will be more on the Demio to come but not much as it won't be modified anywhere near to the extent the MR2 has been.
 
If you're interested, I have two of those factory reversible screwdrivers if you'd like one. I always check for them in junkyards and toss em in my tool bag whenever I find one, usually gone but have gotten lucky and found some free tools on several occasions.

Assuming this is the same one? I'll try and clean it up a bit but it's in good shape.
View attachment 620500 View attachment 620501 View attachment 620502
@ilikewaffles11 and @SVX turns out I already have the screw driver. I took it from the Starlet tool kit before I sold it. Only thing missing now is a pair of pliers.

Part 09130
http://jp-carparts.com/toyota/partlist.php?maker=toyota&type=211120&cartype=3&fig=901
211120_0901_0001.png
 

Applying fixative. Clear and quick drying.




Placing the cap carefully so not to smear fixative everywhere.


The view from the back once installed.


Final install with the Advan Racing logo parallel with the Advan Racing wheel sticker as per the instructions. This is how I prefer them anyway.
This may sound dumb but how do you get the wheels balanced when you install new tires now?
 
This may sound dumb but how do you get the wheels balanced when you install new tires now?
Not a dumb question. It's not like a really strong glue so it will come off if you knock the caps out. I felt there was enough friction holding the caps in once I pressed them into place without the need for the fixative but if Advan supply it with the caps it must be for a reason. When I go to get new tyres I will be removing the wheels from the car myself and removing the centre caps before anyone at a tyre shop gets their hands on them. I'll put them in the Demio and take them that way. I don't trust people to look after my car and parts. They use rattle guns and are rather careless handling wheels.

But then I'll have to put more fixative on you say? Yes, I will. I still have one little bag left but that won't do all 4. I'm sure I can source more from an importer here so not a problem. If not then just pushing the cap in will be enough as they fit well like every other centre cap I have seen.
 
If not then just pushing the cap in will be enough as they fit well like every other centre cap I have seen.

On the other hand there usually seems to be three centre caps with a set of used wheels.. Those always go missing or fall off, so a fixative is not a bad idea.

+1 on not letting anyone handle your stuff.. I trust people with the daily.. Barely.
 
On the other hand there usually seems to be three centre caps with a set of used wheels.. Those always go missing or fall off, so a fixative is not a bad idea.

+1 on not letting anyone handle your stuff.. I trust people with the daily.. Barely.
That's true or missing completely. It's hard to tell if they went missing while driving, got misplaced by the car owner or garage doing work on the car or just got taken while the car was parked.

Over the time I have had the car most of the time I get it back from a garage to do work such as wheel alignments and tyre fitting I always find issues.
I have only had a few times where I had to take the car in to get worked on, one was getting the chassis welded where it cracked from the front swaybar mounts and one to get the axle seal in the gearbox changed. Those times the car was fine but I'm too cheap to pay someone to work on it. Over the 9 years I have owned this car I have paid less than $400 in labor costs to get work done on it for things I just couldn't do myself.
 
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