Gran Turismo 7 Custom Race thread

[suomi1]

I did a 4 hour "race" today, for the pleasure of driving.

So I lapped a Valkyrie, and then I just wanted to impress it at Mulsanne.

Oh whatever, **** that race.....

Here is a screenshot taken just as the countdown timer had finished. Because the rankings are everytime totally messed up with endurance races if you're not the first car to cross the line and imediatelly push the "next" button. As you can see, a sneaky yellow spot of rain on the radar was about to come and I thought I was safe. Error, total chaos during the last lap !


I eventually won as the yellow Ferrari was showing off in the background. lol

 

[05XR8]

The weather is definitely a practical joke many times.

 

[Giygas]

Damn why is the IA so slow driving the new Hypercars ? At Le Mans I am just breezing past them in straights. I have to set boost to 5 or 6 to match their speed. On the hardest setting, boost weak, they lap at around 3min40, which is kinda ridiculous (my best lap at the TT is 3'26, and we do not even have full power there).

It's not like that with Group C cars.

The parameters around them are a little wonky. I put together a 1-hour custom race on Road Atlanta between Hypercars, Group C, GT500 & GT1 cars, multiple instances of all the Hypercars overcooking turn one while the rest were mostly trouble free. The 499P in particular ended up finishing behind most of the Gr.2 entries because of this.

 

[Voodoovaj]

Damn why is the IA so slow driving the new Hypercars ? At Le Mans I am just breezing past them in straights. I have to set boost to 5 or 6 to match their speed. On the hardest setting, boost weak, they lap at around 3min40, which is kinda ridiculous (my best lap at the TT is 3'26, and we do not even have full power there).

It's not like that with Group C cars.

I found that setting them up like the F3500's is the best.

Add the medium turbo and adjust their power from 70% 80% (so about 690hp to 800hp). Leave your car stock.

 

[Voodoovaj]

Can confirm that for Gr3, the best set up is the following (Reggie or Sophy).

Step 1 - Set the car to it's max power and lowest weight.
Step 2 - Set the downforce to 400/600
Step 3 - If the car is over 730pp, you are finished. This car is good to go.
Step 4 - If the car is below 730pp, add the medium turbo or supercharger, and increase the power until you cross the 730pp threshold.

All the cars should be between 730pp and 745pp

Bonus - The Zonda R and the Mclaren P1 can work in this group. Set the downforce the same as above. Add some weight so it is inline with the other Gr3 cars, and adjust the power to bring it into the 730-745 window (you decide where)

If you want to use some of the GR2 cars, add 200kg of weight, turn the downforce all the way down (500/700) and adjust power so the car is in the 730-745 window (about 400hp). They're slow on the straights, but really quick in the corners.

 

[Passinho]

My best balance results have been to choose middle ground (PP) level car and work both ways to come to an area around 720 to 735pp.

I try my best to keep the cars as close to their original stats as possible and choose a car that’s in the lower end of the 20 grid as this seems to match my driving ability in VR. My current car is the new 911 at 726pp, my lowest cars are the DBR9, Ford GT LM Test Car, R.S.01, RCZ, 4C at 720-722.
Highest are GR Supra, both M6, AMG GT3 2016 & 2020, RC F’17, GT Citroen at 730-734pp
I find it difficult but still exciting to race and I don’t get left behind.

All of my created standard GT3 championship races are 40min at 3 x fuel/3 x tires.
With this race set up all 20 cars pit within the second half of the race (last 20mins). I don’t think it’s a fair race when one or two cars have to pit twice so I make sure they all pit once.

Some of the cars are difficult to deal with no matter what you do to them, the Gr.3 Viper runs out of fuel and has to pit twice so I don’t use it, similar to the Corvette so I don’t use that either.
The DBR9 and the Renault GT3 need the opposite, their fuel lasts too long so I rein them in with a little bit of power reduction and weight.

During my previous tests, I also came to the conclusion that the medium turbo works best, for some reason over a 40mins race any car I gave the high turbo always slowly dropped off the pace.
Same with the Supercharger, the low supercharger works, the high doesn’t.
The ECU helps with fuel usage, if it’s balanced with the power restrictor as it can reduce the amount of torque required which saves fuel, even a single tap can help. The ECU takes away more torque that the power restrictor so it’s good to just start with the P/R to start with rather than just the ECU. They seem the same or similar at first glance but they are not.

I’m not a car guy as such, just love the racing so I don’t know a lot about real life cars but I do know what works and what doesn’t on this game, at least from the perspective of how I set up my own race parameters, I’m up to 3721hrs in game and at least half of that is racing Sophy or building cars for Sophy races.
Using the low end super charger or the medium turbo on the cars that need it, picking a car in the middle to low end of the 20 (as you feel your ability and/or car you choose), and balancing with both the ECU and/or the restrictor should, with a bit of time and patience, should give a difficult but enjoyable race experience.

It’s a similar set up situation with GR.4 cars, except I don’t use FF GR.4 for Sophy, they don’t perform well and ALWAYS fall to the back of the pack and out of the pack entirely over 30-40min races.

The GR.2 cars I’ve recently sold all of them as after weeks of testing I just didn’t think they had enough difference between them to give me a nice variety of race. They’re are basically the same, and there’s nowhere near enough variety of car, and the Toyota GT- One isn’t good enough to race with the 2008/2016/Audi cars. The only car I felt worked to add variety and was in keeping with the others was the GT1 Bugatti when adjusted.
That said, I love driving them in VR! Haha

It’s a shame we don’t have a drive personality slider, some way of adding a second dimension to the car.
I’d love a slider say, left is smooth driver/right is aggressive driver, 0-5 each way, but I’m asking way too much of course.

Anyway, just thought I’d chip in with my own experience, hopefully this helps some of you, there’s much more to talk about but I don’t wanna talk your ears off, I’m aware I’ve wrote quite enough!

Keep up the good chats folks, I enjoy reading everyones own experiences.👍🏻👍🏻

 

[pritchyTim]

Hello everyone,

I’m discovering this post.

My God, 150 pages... where to start?

I like the fact of reproducing real or fictional races with grids claiming truth (composition, hierarchy of results, liveries, names of drivers...).

I know that the "search" function exists, but I want to ask you if I should look at a particular post. Please accept my thanks for your suggestions.

PS: As an example and if you’re interested, I tried to reproduce a segment of the 24 hours of Daytona from the F1 movie.

https://www.gran-turismo.com/gb/gt7...75d22f961aa4/gallery/Replay/23644240059555824

I have some general custom race tips in the “integrale” linked doc in my signature, if you’re brand new to getting the most out of the AI. We argue about some of the nuance, and to each his own, but the broad strokes are the same: Boost weak, RH or default tires, a “rabbit” pace car in grid slot 1, and pre-race-downtuning against Reggy. Those last couple are even more nonintuitive than the former, given community discussion and documentation.

Other tips for AI balancing include custom transmissions for top speed control, and optionally giving AI road cars superior brakes/pads/anything, really, to help narrow the skill gap between human and AI. I’m sure I’m missing some mentionables - AI is better than I am at driving low-grip cars - but ultimately each of us drive at different capabilities so you’ll have to find what works best for you. I don’t think either AI (Reggy/Regular vs. Sophy) is better or worse, they each have pros and cons and almost all of my saved grids are saved twice, once for either AI. If you set things up appropriately, either can kick your butt For whatever reason, GT7 has several layers of default settings that give advantage to the human driver. Fortunately, we can work around them!

More on your specific interest of replica/historic grids, and finding them in this thread, we don’t do a very good job publishing/consolidating a list of recommended setups. It’s challenging for a few reasons, which will be relevant to your future searching:

• Custom BoP is only good for the physics model it was built around, which changes often enough we are continually tinkering with our grids’ balance
• We all have our own preferences for which cars make the 19-slot cut, which PP to tune them at, and how to get there
• Livery availability has the last laugh unless you want to create/commission your own

That said, it’s probably best to just make a comment in this thread saying “I want your Daytona 24hrs grids/anyone have 2024?” and people will hop in. Though you literally did that and went overlooked… here’s hoping this gains you some traction!

All that said, I DO just so happen to have my IMSA ‘24 grid documented (and very few others!), though as mentioned above it is out of date re: physics, likely wasn’t perfect to begin with, and entirely lacked the recently-added Gr.1 cars, so… might be useful?

Lastly, we typically love seeing photos that recreate specific/famous racing moments! Hope we see some more of yours

 

[Voodoovaj]

Can confirm that for Gr3, the best set up is the following (Reggie or Sophy).

Step 1 - Set the car to it's max power and lowest weight.
Step 2 - Set the downforce to 400/600
Step 3 - If the car is over 730pp, you are finished. This car is good to go.
Step 4 - If the car is below 730pp, add the medium turbo or supercharger, and increase the power until you cross the 730pp threshold.

All the cars should be between 730pp and 745pp

Bonus - The Zonda R and the Mclaren P1 can work in this group. Set the downforce the same as above. Add some weight so it is inline with the other Gr3 cars, and adjust the power to bring it into the 730-745 window (you decide where)

If you want to use some of the GR2 cars, add 200kg of weight, turn the downforce all the way down (500/700) and adjust power so the car is in the 730-745 window (about 400hp). They're slow on the straights, but really quick in the corners.

BTW, If you use this method, you can turn off the boost as still have a really good race. Especially if you're using one of the cars under 735pp

 

[05XR8]

Quickly built a 911 GT4 R using the GT3 RS. Specs are 430 hp/1515kg from the Porsche Newsroom site. I just dialed the top speed from 300 to 280 to match other Gr.4 top speed. Worked well in a Gr.4 no BoP two lap race at Spa.

 

[CodeRedR51]

Quickly built a 911 GT4 R using the GT3 RS. Specs are 430 hp/1515kg from the Porsche Newsroom site. I just dialed the top speed from 300 to 280 to match other Gr.4 top speed. Worked well in a Gr.4 no BoP two lap race at Spa.
View attachment 1547083View attachment 1547084View attachment 1547085View attachment 1547086View attachment 1547087

I was going to do this, but when I realized I couldn't change the wing or put smaller wheels on it, I gave up.

Was trying to figure out how I could do a Spa 24 hour simulation with a rabbit since all of the cars should be GT3, and then a light bulb went off above my head. Just do multiple classes (Pro, Silver, Bronze) and make the Pro cars a bit higher power than the others. So that class will effectively become the rabbit while I run in a lower class. Going to give that a shot, even though Sophy isn't great at Spa.

 

[05XR8]

I was going to do this, but when I realized I couldn't change the wing or put smaller wheels on it, I gave up.

Was trying to figure out how I could do a Spa 24 hour simulation with a rabbit since all of the cars should be GT3, and then a light bulb went off above my head. Just do multiple classes (Pro, Silver, Bronze) and make the Pro cars a bit higher power than the others. So that class will effectively become the rabbit while I run in a lower class. Going to give that a shot, even though Sophy isn't great at Spa.

The wheels being black doesn’t make them look oversized. Even though it has higher aero, it’s still a porker at 1515kg! Not as heavy as the Gr.4 Veyron, but heavier than the V8 coupes like SLS, RC F, Mustang and everything else. Balanced out quite well.

 

[Voodoovaj]

This has been the most fun I have had with GR3 in a LONG time. One of the reasons I walked away from Sport Mode was boredom with GR3 (and the way it has become spec racing).

By sticking to a championship format, which forces me into the same car for every round, it's more fun. This is a GTLM 2011 setup, which are the GR3 cars from 2011 and earlier, plus the Zonda R (which is essentially a GR3 car), and the GR2 Lexus SC430 and The GR2 '08 NSX. You can see most of the cars in this photo. I also include the Mitsubishi Evo GR3.

As I posted above, PP is 730-740. My RCZ is 731pp

When I move to 2015 models, there will be more gap with the Lambo being over 740pp. At that point, I think I can still have a good time without boost and then, pitstops become interesting again.

 

[Darrenersmit]

Gutted, was getting the endless circle on load up screen. Got fed up with uninstall and re installed, now all my saved custom races have gone. So sad

 

[tonidavid5]

There should be a post pinned on the forum noting that uninstalling the game erases all custom races and photos (not shared) even if game data is sync'ed with PS Plus.

 

[CodeRedR51]

Gutted, was getting the endless circle on load up screen. Got fed up with uninstall and re installed, now all my saved custom races have gone. So sad

When it does that for me, I press the PS button to go back to the console menu, press 'three lines' button (start button) on the GT7 image and select 'close game'. Then try again. Usually works the 2nd time.

 

[Darrenersmit]

When it does that for me, I press the PS button to go back to the console menu, press 'three lines' button (start button) on the GT7 image and select 'close game'. Then try again. Usually works the 2nd time.

Yes, thats how I was getting around it always worked second time. Guess I'm just very impatient haha

 

[jesse100190]

tonight was a blast using a sf car at dragon gardens reversed at 800 pp using 800 pp tire and fuel rate not as fast as others on the field but makes up for it with downforce

 

[Vegathegreat]

I just dont understand why rubberbanding exists if you select "none". I understand if you were to select weak, etc....but why have a "none" option and then rubberband it. I have an amazing GR.1 setup now with hypercars and lmp1 etc...got them all even tuned to perfect laptimes to match me. (If i do a perfect lap im generally .250 quicker per lap) So by no means do I have it on easymode, I just did a road atlanta with Reggie and I was doing 1:09.8's and they were doing 1:10's. BMW is bugged ion first corner, literally spins out every lap but w/e.(2 BMW V8(890 pp), 2 Porsche 963(874 pp), 2 Pugs 9X8(876 pp), 2 Toyo GR010(875 pp), 2 Porsche 919(880 pp), 2 Toyo TS030(872 pp), 2 Audi R18 TDI(870 pp), 2 Toyo TS050 (847 pp), 2 Audi R18(855 pp). 1 Ferrari 499P (875 pp) and I run a stock 499p (860 pp). But even though it takes me 20-35 laps to get from 20th to 1st, I cant pull away. The other 499p sticks to me like glue even though i should be running .250/.500 a lap quicker like i did for the previous 30 laps. It ruins the immersion to be honest.

 

[2cam16]

Was trying out a Hypercar race with simlilarity to last week's Daily Race. I only have 10 HY's plus I added the new safety car. LeMans on Reggie,14 laps, 24 hour clock speed whatever it is, Normal difficulty,weather(but rain didn't come). It was fun and I won by only a couple of seconds. What caught me off guard was the speed of the Porsche safety car. as we were going down Mulsane on the first lap, I noticed a car coming up fast behind me. Lo and behold it was the pace car! Watching the replay, it had me by about 7-11mph top speed. That was funny!

 

[Theufcveteran]

I just dont understand why rubberbanding exists if you select "none". I understand if you were to select weak, etc....but why have a "none" option and then rubberband it. I have an amazing GR.1 setup now with hypercars and lmp1 etc...got them all even tuned to perfect laptimes to match me. (If i do a perfect lap im generally .250 quicker per lap) So by no means do I have it on easymode, I just did a road atlanta with Reggie and I was doing 1:09.8's and they were doing 1:10's. BMW is bugged ion first corner, literally spins out every lap but w/e.(2 BMW V8(890 pp), 2 Porsche 963(874 pp), 2 Pugs 9X8(876 pp), 2 Toyo GR010(875 pp), 2 Porsche 919(880 pp), 2 Toyo TS030(872 pp), 2 Audi R18 TDI(870 pp), 2 Toyo TS050 (847 pp), 2 Audi R18(855 pp). 1 Ferrari 499P (875 pp) and I run a stock 499p (860 pp). But even though it takes me 20-35 laps to get from 20th to 1st, I cant pull away. The other 499p sticks to me like glue even though i should be running .250/.500 a lap quicker like i did for the previous 30 laps. It ruins the immersion to be honest.

Polyphony logic is strange sometimes. Boost Weak or Boost Weak + a faster car in P1 as a "rabbit" I believe is how the rabbit works, is the least rubberbanding way to play against Reggie. With rabbit, you do lose one car though, and some immersion, so it's up to you if you want to go for that. If gameplay quality is your priority then that's what you'd want.

The rabbit method in particular eliminates basically all rubberbanding for how AI drive regarding pitstops (others who know more may be able to chip in on exactly how the pitstop rubberbanding works), not sure if the rabbit method completely eliminates all rubberbanding or if, beyond getting rid of the pitstop rubberbanding, it works like regular Boost Weak (which still has some I believe, but seems to be the least of all the options, it also makes them the fastest).

 

[st3vao]

Hey everyone. Hope you are all good!
I've started to tinker with custom races a couple weeks ago. The regular AI still have some odd bheaviour, but it is "ok" i guess, compared to what it used to be a few years ago.
My main issue with Sophy is that it cannot race in the rain...
I've done some races that had super close finishes, and intense battles with 2 or 3 AI cars. I can say that I enjoy the AI in GT7 now...
I like to take some cars like the Alpine A110, Mitsubishi FTO, Nissan Silvia, Toyota MR2, Renault Clio V6 and tune them to get close to Gr4 performance, then use these to race against GR4 cars. Some races are quite eventful and fun

 

[sejtur]

I just dont understand why rubberbanding exists if you select "none". I understand if you were to select weak, etc....but why have a "none" option and then rubberband it. I have an amazing GR.1 setup now with hypercars and lmp1 etc...got them all even tuned to perfect laptimes to match me. (If i do a perfect lap im generally .250 quicker per lap) So by no means do I have it on easymode, I just did a road atlanta with Reggie and I was doing 1:09.8's and they were doing 1:10's. BMW is bugged ion first corner, literally spins out every lap but w/e.(2 BMW V8(890 pp), 2 Porsche 963(874 pp), 2 Pugs 9X8(876 pp), 2 Toyo GR010(875 pp), 2 Porsche 919(880 pp), 2 Toyo TS030(872 pp), 2 Audi R18 TDI(870 pp), 2 Toyo TS050 (847 pp), 2 Audi R18(855 pp). 1 Ferrari 499P (875 pp) and I run a stock 499p (860 pp). But even though it takes me 20-35 laps to get from 20th to 1st, I cant pull away. The other 499p sticks to me like glue even though i should be running .250/.500 a lap quicker like i did for the previous 30 laps. It ruins the immersion to be honest.

Indeed, if you say none it should really be none. Presenting it like it’s an option, but it isn’t there. It’s frustrating. If other games like AC can do it, why not GT?

 

[Vegathegreat]

Polyphony logic is strange sometimes. Boost Weak or Boost Weak + a faster car in P1 as a "rabbit" I believe is how the rabbit works, is the least rubberbanding way to play against Reggie. With rabbit, you do lose one car though, and some immersion, so it's up to you if you want to go for that. If gameplay quality is your priority then that's what you'd want.

The rabbit method in particular eliminates basically all rubberbanding for how AI drive regarding pitstops (others who know more may be able to chip in on exactly how the pitstop rubberbanding works), not sure if the rabbit method completely eliminates all rubberbanding or if, beyond getting rid of the pitstop rubberbanding, it works like regular Boost Weak (which still has some I believe, but seems to be the least of all the options, it also makes them the fastest).

Yea I dont want to do the rabbit thing because I want to win the race, not finish 2nd. I suppose when im doing gt3 I could drop a hypercar at the front and pretend 2nd is 1st. But when im racing hypercars I dont wanna add an F1 car just so my hyper car race is normal. I mean the reasoning that Polyphony gives just doesnt make sense, why not leave it to the user to add in rubberbanding like every other racing game. Catch up has been a thing from the first of racing games but its always a full out option not mandatory. While they are at it they need to up the rewards for custom races also, if I do a 6 hour race vs cars that are pumping lap times within +3/-3 seconds the rewards should be around the 6m/9m perfect race. Just take the 1 hour spa race X6. Now if you do the same thing vs cars that are 100pp under you then then the rewards should be 1/4 of the max reward etc....they can make it all proportional is what im getting at.

 

[suomi1]

In any case, rubberbanding works differently with the base AI so...

 

[Theufcveteran]

In any case, rubberbanding works differently with the base AI so...

By base AI, do you mean in the main game events/menu book events?

 

[suomi1]

By base AI, do you mean in the main game events/menu book events?

Reggie VS Sophy in custom race mode.

Every car driven by Sophy will slow down at the same pace wherever you are as long as you're not first. With Reggie though, if you are P3, and P2 AI slows down by let say 1 second more to let you come back, P4 AI behing you will tend to slow down by 2 seconds, which leads to a totally spreaded field of cars as the player progresses to the top.

Let say all cars are clones :

Lap 1 : P1(AI) <<< P2(AI) <<< P3(Player) <<< P4(AI)
Lap 2 : P1(AI) <<<< P2(AI) << P3(Player) <<<<< P4(AI)
Lap 3 : P1(AI) <<<<< P2(AI) < P3(Player) <<<<<<< P4(AI)
Lap 4 : P1(AI) <<<<< P2(Player) < P3(AI) <<<<<<< P4(AI)
Lap 5 : P1(AI) <<<< P2(Player) <<< P3(AI) <<<<<<< P4(AI)
Lap 6 : P1(AI) <<<< P2(Player) <<< P3(AI) <<<<<<< P4(AI)
Lap 7 : P1(AI) <<< P2(Player) <<<<< P3(AI) <<<<<<< P4(AI)
Lap 8 : P1(AI) << P2(Player) <<<<<<< P3(AI) <<<<<<< P4(AI)
Lap 9 : P1(AI) < P2(Player) <<<<<<<<< P3(AI) <<<<<<< P4(AI)
Lap X : P1(Player) < P2(AI) <<<<<<<<< P3(AI) <<<<<<< P4(AI)

A bit caricatural but you should get the idea, it tend to be worse.

 

[05XR8]

Yeah, I usually don't get fastest lap on a road course until I break into the top 10 and start moving up.
Daytona oval is a different story for my races.

 

[sejtur]

Nvm

 

[Voodoovaj]

Yea I dont want to do the rabbit thing because I want to win the race, not finish 2nd. I suppose when im doing gt3 I could drop a hypercar at the front and pretend 2nd is 1st. But when im racing hypercars I dont wanna add an F1 car just so my hyper car race is normal. I mean the reasoning that Polyphony gives just doesnt make sense, why not leave it to the user to add in rubberbanding like every other racing game. Catch up has been a thing from the first of racing games but its always a full out option not mandatory. While they are at it they need to up the rewards for custom races also, if I do a 6 hour race vs cars that are pumping lap times within +3/-3 seconds the rewards should be around the 6m/9m perfect race. Just take the 1 hour spa race X6. Now if you do the same thing vs cars that are 100pp under you then then the rewards should be 1/4 of the max reward etc....they can make it all proportional is what im getting at.

You don't have to do the rabbit. You just have to have something that's as fast as you near the front. The game is trying to balance the race with 1st place being fastest and last place slowest. Over the course of 6 hours, you may see it ebb and flow.

With Sophy, you can add 10-15PP and still have a chance of winning, depending on the track. With Reggie, it's 15-20PP. "No boost" is the best option for the least boost, and Reggie has less boost than Sophy across the board. IMHO, turn boost off for endurance races (1 hour+) and have a 15 PP spread across the field (with downforce as equal as possible).

Also, I don't think people give enough credit to fuel consumption and it's impact on performance points. The cars that seem unbalanced and really fast at a given PP level, tend to have terrible fuel consumption as well. So they stop more, but they're fast, so that can sometimes come across as boost.

 

[alanpurwantia]

I did a 4 hour "race" today, for the pleasure of driving.

So I lapped a Valkyrie, and then I just wanted to impress it at Mulsanne.
View attachment 1545779View attachment 1545780
Oh whatever, **** that race.....

Here is a screenshot taken just as the countdown timer had finished. Because the rankings are everytime totally messed up with endurance races if you're not the first car to cross the line and imediatelly push the "next" button. As you can see, a sneaky yellow spot of rain on the radar was about to come and I thought I was safe. Error, total chaos during the last lap !
View attachment 1545782View attachment 1545783

I eventually won as the yellow Ferrari was showing off in the background. lol
View attachment 1545781

The 4-hour custom race in GT7 is 10/10.