Gran Turismo 7 Physics

[cassiusclay99]

Ho! Thank you guys. Did not know that word.

 

[GordonS]

Physics are unrivalled now. Im not kidding. Puts Asseto Evo to absolute shame. Zero placebo. The physics have objectively been overhauled.

The 296 gt3 at Yas Marina is extraordinary. I can feel each independent tyre dancing and working. Phenomenal stuff.

I have the comparison only with Automobilista 2 which I like a lot but now GT7 has evolved so that it is my daily drive. The steering feel is very good!
Pity I can't use the pc sequential shifter with it.

 

[hawkeyez]

I have the comparison only with Automobilista 2 which I like a lot but now GT7 has evolved so that it is my daily drive. The steering feel is very good!
Pity I can't use the pc sequential shifter with it.

It’s also a pity they have the clutch pretty much set as a neutral switch. If you press the clutch in, it goes into neutral, but you have to physically shift up again to get it back in gear. This game is so close yet so far away sometimes. Haha

 

[newmedia_dev]

It’s also a pity they have the clutch pretty much set as a neutral switch. If you press the clutch in, it goes into neutral, but you have to physically shift up again to get it back in gear. This game is so close yet so far away sometimes. Haha

Outside of rallying, and some very very specific driving techniques (typically older cars) why would you dip the clutch rather than brake, coast or accelerate?

It’s a very different driving style and typically only used when you want to unload drive quickly while maintaining momentum, it’s not on the main radar for track or fast road driving?

 

[hawkeyez]

Outside of rallying, and some very very specific driving techniques (typically older cars) why would you dip the clutch rather than brake, coast or accelerate?

It’s a very different driving style and typically only used when you want to unload drive quickly while maintaining momentum, it’s not on the main radar for track or fast road driving?

I think it would help if you’re beginning to spin, sometimes if you let off or brake it’s not enough.

The point is, it can’t be a real simulator if the clutch pedal is a neutral switch. Argue or defend why you’d need that all day, but that’s not how a cars clutch works. It would be very handy on the Lake Louise for one. And I mostly drive the older cars, idk just my opinion but I think it’s lame the way it currently works.

 

[newmedia_dev]

I think it would help if you’re beginning to spin, sometimes if you let off or brake it’s not enough.

The point is, it can’t be a real simulator if the clutch pedal is a neutral switch. Argue or defend why you’d need that all day, but that’s not how a cars clutch works. It would be very handy on the Lake Louise for one. And I mostly drive the older cars, idk just my opinion but I think it’s lame the way it currently works.

Honestly, the way you a talking about a clutch and driving to a performance level isn’t the same thing, as I said in certain cornering scenarios a dip of the clutch is a technique but it’s very much not a thing to go fast in old or new cars generally, momentum is the key not abusing the box or clutch.

Everyone’s mileage varies with this stuff though

 

[hawkeyez]

Honestly, the way you a talking about a clutch and driving to a performance level isn’t the same thing, as I said in certain cornering scenarios a dip of the clutch is a technique but it’s very much not a thing to go fast in old or new cars generally, momentum is the key not abusing the box or clutch.

Everyone’s mileage varies with this stuff though

Well I don’t think I was initially talking about driving to a performance level. You were. I was pointing out that for “ a real driving simulator” they sure didn’t get that part right. But that’s this forum, people will argue why it’s not that way or why you don’t actually need it to do that in the first place. Might be handy getting out of the sand if you go off track, handy on rally courses or snow courses. As for losing traction, I think we’ve all been there before, it starts to come around on you, you let off and countersteer all day long but it’s inevitable, it’s coming around on you… if only there was a way to disengage power to the rear wheels…hmmm.

 

[Adam41]

OK, the mushiness was a car problem, but the straight line shaking is universal. Tried different FFB sensitivity values, different car toe values, even switching the wheel from GT Mode to other, and no help. Fortunately it's a belt wheel so it won't rattle itself to pieces but I'd still rather have no shaking.

Shaking on my TGT too. And FFB feels lifeless when the weight of the car starts to shift until it's too late. I'm having to rely on visual cues to be able to counter oversteer most of the time.

There was shaking on the last FFB update but that was mainly at higher speed. Now it starts at about 10mph. The vibrating was that bad and the FFB that dull, I expected to see lots complaining about it on here but as I didn't, I went to update my firmware on my wheel for the first time in 5 years!

Here's a video of the shaking. I saw another member reported it on their DD Pro, but does no one else feel this?! It's shaking my hands to pieces over a stint and I'm on strength 3 or 4/10!

 

[Greycap]

Here's a video of the shaking. I saw another member reported it on their DD Pro, but does no one else feel this?! It's shaking my hands to pieces over a stint and I'm on strength 3 or 4/10!

My version for the record. Potato quality but it shows everything worth seeing, T-GT II, FFB strength 2, sensitivity 10.

 

[savior972]

My version for the record. Potato quality but it shows everything worth seeing, T-GT II, FFB strength 2, sensitivity 10.

Thankfully, that's not the case with my T300 RS.
I can't complain.

Although I did switch from PS5 to PS5 pro on Thursday. I forgot to reset the FFB.

The setup probably isn't saved.

 

[Kriptical]

Not sure the physics has changed but man…the ffb for the dd+ is soooooo much better!

Driving is fun again.

 

[RS60NR]

I think tire grip behavior has changed and maybe the amount of grip related force sent to the wheel. The range between tire grades/types and amount of grip and/or wheel force seems closer together

The Cx don’t feel so light and the Rx not so heavy on the same car

Also in the power pack races the tires need a warm up before they grip fully

 

[SPOOLMAN]

The physics have changed completely. Im in the process of making a video that highlights the difference.

I love this game so much now. That old gt magic is shining through 🙏

 

[M Stark]

Not sure the physics has changed but man…the ffb for the dd+ is soooooo much better!

Driving is fun again.

I think so too. The FFB is so much more granular and precise that gives you the information you need to control the car much better. But I doubt the actual physics model was touched.

 

[D_Dragline]

The physics have changed completely. Im in the process of making a video that highlights the difference.

I love this game so much now. That old gt magic is shining through 🙏

I think so too. The FFB is so much more granular and precise that gives you the information you need to control the car much better. But I doubt the actual physics model was touched.

Consecutive posts that summarize this thread perfectly.

 

[Barareklam]

I have a feeling that something changed slightly when steering with motion sensor on controller but can't really put a finger on in it 🤔
@P-Courty what are your impressions or anyone else who is tilting controller to steer?

 

[P-Courty]

I have a feeling that something changed slightly when steering with motion sensor on controller but can't really put a finger on in it 🤔
@P-Courty what are your impressions or anyone else who is tilting controller to steer?

It seems that understeer comes on quicker now.

I had my settings on:
-2
10
1

Then changed them to this when I was doing the Eiger reverse circuit experience:
-2
5
1

It feels better to me, but like you say can't quite figure out what it actually is that has changed

 

[manou]

Gr3 cars feel a bit more prone to wheelspin now. I could handle them with TCS 0 before Spec 3. Found myself setting TCS to 1 during the Circuit Experiences because the rear kept snapping out on both the AMG and 296. Guess I'll need to adapt again.

Well the Amg has always been an handful, I wasn't surprised by it. The new ferrari is with hard racing tires, but is manageable. I tried the mclaren gr3, it is incredibly grippy.

 

[Wannablackbee]

After trying the new cars and new tracks, I wanted to test the old stuff. So I tested the bmw z4 at Lago Maggiore, the one in the weekly challenges. I used the car in its stock form.

The car is so easy to drift and controllable. I even got lift off oversteer after a small tap on brake. A little bit of countersteer to bring the car straight. Nothing unpredictable, nothing snappy. So much fun. Slowly losing grip and have plenty of time to save it or even maintain drift. Full control!

The grip of the comfort soft is easy to break but as soon as you get sideways, there is so much friction. It slows you down and you regain grip that allows you to maintain drift. There is now less chances for a spinout.

Give it a try and see for yourselves! Have fun!

 

[ScottPuss20]

It seems to me that the suspension reacts more to bumps and depressions in the road.

 

[MadMax]

There has been small changes to grip levels ingame. B-5 License for example , controlled enviroment - the car is a few 1/1000s faster than in 1.64.

And the clutch is not on/off button.

 

[Pie O My]

Probably not specifically since @rtsbasic has the same problem with a Fanatec, but it may very well be wheel model dependant as your T300RS is handled by the game differently from my T-GT II for example. I'd hazard a guess that they have different driver packages for each major wheel family.

I originally thought that dropping the sensitivity from 10 to 1 would cure it but nope, no difference to the shaking, just a less responsive steering feel as a whole and that's not good. The shaking isn't violent but irritating anyway, perhaps 3-5 Hz and about 1 cm on each side. It's like the wheel doesn't realize that there's no need to apply force to either direction and ends up fighting itself.

Getting the same with the CSL Elite (shaking in straight line).

Can't work out what they've done with the FFB either. As you say, it seems some wheels have benefitted at the expense of others.

 

[Wannablackbee]

In a couple of posts, I saw videos of Fanatec wheels. It looks like oscillation to me. I cannot feel the strength in my hands just by watching a video but I think it is normal.

Logitech Gpro does the same too. It was doing the same wobbling in straight line with race cars before. With 1.65, it now does it with road cars too. I do not mind at all.

Technically, it looks like having good FFB settings comes with a compromise. The FFB programing seems to be equally related to oscillation. I rather have a little oscillation and great FFB than having no oscillation and feel nothing or like driving on ice.

I hope they wont change it in future updates because I like it right now. We get a lot of information through the wheel and it is a good thing.

The best would be if we could get rid of this wavering and keep the FFB the way it is in the moment.

Fanatec owners, I hope it gets better for you too.

 

[hawkeyez]

There has been small changes to grip levels ingame. B-5 License for example , controlled enviroment - the car is a few 1/1000s faster than in 1.64.

And the clutch is not on/off button.

What wheel are you using? I have the Logitech G Pro with G923 pedals. The clutch is totally an ON/OFF button. I’ve heard if I get the manual shift accessory it may work as it should, but I don’t think I should have to buy that just to get a working clutch. Other games like PC2 had a working clutch without needing accessories.

If I push in my clutch it should go into neutral, it should just disengage the drivetrain, that’s all. Technically shouldn’t even show NEUTRAL. I can live without it, I just wish they’d update it to be more realistic.

 

[Kriptical]

For Fanatec users. If your having oscillation problems make sure in game sensitivity is set to 1. I used to get violent oscillations but since switching the in game setting things have been fine. I have a DD+ and while the wheel has a little bit of center wobble from time to time there aren’t really any oscillations to speak of.

That aside. This is the best my DD+ has felt. Probably since purchase. Driving is fun and visceral in VR and all car’s are now enjoyable to one degree or another because I can finally feel what they are doing and adjust. Which is fantastic because…ya know…that’s kind of the point of the wheel..!

Might be the best update to date.

 

[JDMKING13]

What wheel are you using? I have the Logitech G Pro with G923 pedals. The clutch is totally an ON/OFF button. I’ve heard if I get the manual shift accessory it may work as it should, but I don’t think I should have to buy that just to get a working clutch. Other games like PC2 had a working clutch without needing accessories.

If I push in my clutch it should go into neutral, it should just disengage the drivetrain, that’s all. Technically shouldn’t even show NEUTRAL. I can live without it, I just wish they’d update it to be more realistic.

I have T-GT-II with clutch and shifter and it not an off and on switch.. It’s not the most realistic clutch either.. but you can stall the car and miss shift if you are not smooth with the clutch and shifter. I have lost races because of miss shifting in league play, that’s why I like paddles when racing lol.

 

[hawkeyez]

I have T-GT-II with clutch and shifter and it not an off and on switch.. It’s not the most realistic clutch either.. but you can stall the car and miss shift if you are not smooth with the clutch and shifter. I have lost races because of miss shifting in league play, that’s why I like paddles when racing lol.

Must need the shifter. That’s too bad.

 

[MadMax]

What wheel are you using? I have the Logitech G Pro with G923 pedals. The clutch is totally an ON/OFF button. I’ve heard if I get the manual shift accessory it may work as it should, but I don’t think I should have to buy that just to get a working clutch. Other games like PC2 had a working clutch without needing accessories.

If I push in my clutch it should go into neutral, it should just disengage the drivetrain, that’s all. Technically shouldn’t even show NEUTRAL. I can live without it, I just wish they’d update it to be more realistic.

I use G29 + h-shifter from G27

The clutch allows crawling & partial clutch usage while on throttle.
Like you would use the clutch starting to move from a full stop IRL.

 

[Alfa Romeo GT]

I have the comparison only with Automobilista 2 which I like a lot but now GT7 has evolved so that it is my daily drive. The steering feel is very good!
Pity I can't use the pc sequential shifter with it.

I mainly drive on PC simulators, but I have to say that I've always had trouble with the grip feel in Automobilista 2, and even its FFB in general.
Personally, I much prefer GT7.

And the recent improvements to GT7's FFB are clearly a welcome addition.

 

[hawkeyez]

I use G29 + h-shifter from G27

The clutch allows crawling & partial clutch usage while on throttle.
Like you would use the clutch starting to move from a full stop IRL.

Ok I remember now, need the shifter to access the proper clutch in GT7 for some reason. Probably some deal setup to try and sell more shifters.