- 1,403
- mooresville, NC
- FRT_LEGACY97
Hey guys and gals this forum is to help all of you who maybe are not that great at setting up a car in GT6. In my opinion many people struggle with setup because they either do not know how to diagnose and fix the problems. No worries I will cover most if not all of it in this forum. It is also important to point out that I do NOT claim to know everything about setup in GT6 and also struggle with it from time to time. I just want to help with the limited knowledge I do have about tuning in real life and in the game. SO with the Intro and disclaimer out of the way lets get started!
Ok so lets start from the beginning and set some basic vocabulary because for some of you it is hard to tune because you don't know what in the blessed hell camber or tow really is. Here is a list of all of the setup vocabulary you may have trouble with.
Vocab.
Anti-roll Bars- Anti-roll bars help stiffen the suspension during cornering so that the car can turn easier.
Camber Angle- The tilt of the tire towards the center of the car
Dampers- I don't really have a definition for this but I can tell you that dampers are inside the shock and determine the speed at which the shock compresses and decompresses. It's not really important to know what they are as knowing what they do.
Downforce- the downward pressure exerted by the flow of air over the car
Ride Height- The measurement from the flat ground to a set point on the car (usually front and rear bumper or frame rails)
Spring Rate- How hard or easy it is to compress the spring
Toe Angle- the length between the opposite side wheels (LF->RF, LR->RR). Measured by subtracting the length between the back of the tires from the length between the front of the tires.
For now I'm going to exclude transmission and drivetrain tuning vocabulary because we will cover it shortly.
Now that we know the vocabulary lets start by going over the process of tuning. Think of tuning like science where there is always a certain way to do things so that the outcome is correct and can be duplicated.
Here is my recommendation on how you should tune.
1.Analyze
2.Test
3.Asses
4.fix
I use this process when tuning any car because I can keep track of my changes and it is quick and easy.
Step 1: Analyze
Ask questions like:
What type of track am I going to be driving on? Street, Mountainous, Hilly, Flat, Smooth, Banked?
How many turns are there?
How slick is the surface of the track?
Analyzing also helps with learning a new track.
Step 2: Test
before doing any sort of tuning you should drive the track with the base tune the comes on the car when you first buy it. testing also helps correct or prove any assumptions made in analyzing and also gives you a base point for when you go to change anything on the car.
Step 3: Assess
This can be done while testing. take the time to find any flaws your car may have.(That does not mean its defective appearance or sound) This means find out where the car does well or not so great.
Ask questions like:
Is the car loose on entry to corner or does it just want to push straight?
In the center of the turn does the car slide out from the back end or does the front end push towards the outside?
When exiting the corner does the back end kick out when I get on the gas or does the front end just want to push towards the outside wall?
Step 4: fix
Now that you know the problems you can fix them. However, do NOT try to fix them all at one time. take each problem separately and after you make any changes repeat steps 2-4.
Ok so now you know the correct steps to take in tuning your vehicle now you need to know the correct order in which to tune.
Step 1: Transmission
The transmission is probably the most important part of tuning and should always come first. That being said it is also the most complicated. Which is why alot of drivers will take the easy way out and just put the final gear all the way up or all the way down and set the gear ratios at max in the opposite direction of the final gear. Sure this works if you are looking for top speed or acceleration. The flaw with this way of tuning a trans is that it will negatively effect the handling of the car.
Yes, The way your transmission is setup can effect the handling of your car. For this reason I like to use a formula to tune my transmission. Time for another disclaimer. Again I am not saying this is the only "right way to tune" or "the best way" I am just stating that this works for me and may or may not work for you. Anyways here is a link to a thread that tells you the formula and how it works because I'm not that good at explaining it and others are.
By @jtqmopar
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ing-made-easy-the-basics.294738/#post-9113899
Step 2: Drivetrain
Almost as important as the transmission, the drivetrain setup can have a major effect on the handling of your car. The drivetrain is dependant on the driver and is different for every driver. It all depends on what YOU are comfortable with. Personally I like to use the perimeters below because I don't like alot of torque but I still want the acceleration. As for braking it all depends on the car because every car has a different brake package. Ideally you want the car to stop as quick as possible without locking up the wheels so that you can turn in to the corner. Now some locking up is ok as long as the wheels aren't locked up when you turn in but that is all regulated by your brake foot.
Initial Torque: 10-6
Acceleration Sensitivity: 14-11
Braking Sensitivity: 15-40
Step 3: Downforce (Full)
I like to start with full downforce to eliminate this variable while doing suspension tuning. and then once I know my suspension is right I will go back and mess with lowering the downforce. It is important to note that once you have changed the down force from full you will probably have to do some adjusting on your suspension to compensate for the loss of downforce.
Step 4: Suspension
Now you're ready to tune suspension! This part is where the assessing part comes to play because if you don't know what is wrong with your car than you can't fix it. I'll let you in on a little secret of mine. I use this cheat sheet to figure out what to do with my car this guy obviously knows what he is talking about and is one of the reasons I typed this guide in the first place.
By @Trewer_Rath
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/analysing-setups.149604/
Now this guy doesn't tell you everything but he gives you the basics on what to do and what you need to know when making adjustments.
One such thing he doesn't tell you is which way to go when making adjustments. For example when it says "softer rear anti-roll" how do you know which way to move the slider?
heres a quick guide to help you figure that out
soften suspension stiffness= softer spring rate= higher number
harder suspension stiffness= harder spring rate= lower number
softer damper= lower number
harder damper= higher number
harder anti-roll bar= lower number
softer anti-roll bar= higher number
Well thats about it on tuning I hope this helps! If there is anything that you think I missed, could add or if you have any question feel free to ask.
Ok so lets start from the beginning and set some basic vocabulary because for some of you it is hard to tune because you don't know what in the blessed hell camber or tow really is. Here is a list of all of the setup vocabulary you may have trouble with.
Vocab.
Anti-roll Bars- Anti-roll bars help stiffen the suspension during cornering so that the car can turn easier.
Camber Angle- The tilt of the tire towards the center of the car
Dampers- I don't really have a definition for this but I can tell you that dampers are inside the shock and determine the speed at which the shock compresses and decompresses. It's not really important to know what they are as knowing what they do.
Downforce- the downward pressure exerted by the flow of air over the car
Ride Height- The measurement from the flat ground to a set point on the car (usually front and rear bumper or frame rails)
Spring Rate- How hard or easy it is to compress the spring
Toe Angle- the length between the opposite side wheels (LF->RF, LR->RR). Measured by subtracting the length between the back of the tires from the length between the front of the tires.
For now I'm going to exclude transmission and drivetrain tuning vocabulary because we will cover it shortly.
Now that we know the vocabulary lets start by going over the process of tuning. Think of tuning like science where there is always a certain way to do things so that the outcome is correct and can be duplicated.
Here is my recommendation on how you should tune.
1.Analyze
2.Test
3.Asses
4.fix
I use this process when tuning any car because I can keep track of my changes and it is quick and easy.
Step 1: Analyze
Ask questions like:
What type of track am I going to be driving on? Street, Mountainous, Hilly, Flat, Smooth, Banked?
How many turns are there?
How slick is the surface of the track?
Analyzing also helps with learning a new track.
Step 2: Test
before doing any sort of tuning you should drive the track with the base tune the comes on the car when you first buy it. testing also helps correct or prove any assumptions made in analyzing and also gives you a base point for when you go to change anything on the car.
Step 3: Assess
This can be done while testing. take the time to find any flaws your car may have.(That does not mean its defective appearance or sound) This means find out where the car does well or not so great.
Ask questions like:
Is the car loose on entry to corner or does it just want to push straight?
In the center of the turn does the car slide out from the back end or does the front end push towards the outside?
When exiting the corner does the back end kick out when I get on the gas or does the front end just want to push towards the outside wall?
Step 4: fix
Now that you know the problems you can fix them. However, do NOT try to fix them all at one time. take each problem separately and after you make any changes repeat steps 2-4.
Ok so now you know the correct steps to take in tuning your vehicle now you need to know the correct order in which to tune.
Step 1: Transmission
The transmission is probably the most important part of tuning and should always come first. That being said it is also the most complicated. Which is why alot of drivers will take the easy way out and just put the final gear all the way up or all the way down and set the gear ratios at max in the opposite direction of the final gear. Sure this works if you are looking for top speed or acceleration. The flaw with this way of tuning a trans is that it will negatively effect the handling of the car.
Yes, The way your transmission is setup can effect the handling of your car. For this reason I like to use a formula to tune my transmission. Time for another disclaimer. Again I am not saying this is the only "right way to tune" or "the best way" I am just stating that this works for me and may or may not work for you. Anyways here is a link to a thread that tells you the formula and how it works because I'm not that good at explaining it and others are.
By @jtqmopar
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/thre...ing-made-easy-the-basics.294738/#post-9113899
Step 2: Drivetrain
Almost as important as the transmission, the drivetrain setup can have a major effect on the handling of your car. The drivetrain is dependant on the driver and is different for every driver. It all depends on what YOU are comfortable with. Personally I like to use the perimeters below because I don't like alot of torque but I still want the acceleration. As for braking it all depends on the car because every car has a different brake package. Ideally you want the car to stop as quick as possible without locking up the wheels so that you can turn in to the corner. Now some locking up is ok as long as the wheels aren't locked up when you turn in but that is all regulated by your brake foot.
Initial Torque: 10-6
Acceleration Sensitivity: 14-11
Braking Sensitivity: 15-40
Step 3: Downforce (Full)
I like to start with full downforce to eliminate this variable while doing suspension tuning. and then once I know my suspension is right I will go back and mess with lowering the downforce. It is important to note that once you have changed the down force from full you will probably have to do some adjusting on your suspension to compensate for the loss of downforce.
Step 4: Suspension
Now you're ready to tune suspension! This part is where the assessing part comes to play because if you don't know what is wrong with your car than you can't fix it. I'll let you in on a little secret of mine. I use this cheat sheet to figure out what to do with my car this guy obviously knows what he is talking about and is one of the reasons I typed this guide in the first place.
By @Trewer_Rath
https://www.gtplanet.net/forum/threads/analysing-setups.149604/
Now this guy doesn't tell you everything but he gives you the basics on what to do and what you need to know when making adjustments.
One such thing he doesn't tell you is which way to go when making adjustments. For example when it says "softer rear anti-roll" how do you know which way to move the slider?
heres a quick guide to help you figure that out
soften suspension stiffness= softer spring rate= higher number
harder suspension stiffness= harder spring rate= lower number
softer damper= lower number
harder damper= higher number
harder anti-roll bar= lower number
softer anti-roll bar= higher number
Well thats about it on tuning I hope this helps! If there is anything that you think I missed, could add or if you have any question feel free to ask.
Last edited:
, what's a good value for stock 2010 Camaro SS and stock 2010 Camaro SS Touring Car ? IRL, stock Camaro SS road car spring rate already quite low.
