GT7 Online Time Trial/Lap Time Challenge Discussion

  • Thread starter Thread starter seadog777
  • 48,144 comments
  • 5,122,318 views
After dedicating some time in this, top 30, happy with it!
Maybe a 27:1 is on the books, but have to nail the final section of the track - always lose a lot of time there :(
Have some blast driving this TT, that's all that matters! :)

Gran Turismo™ 7_20260725190434.webp
 
Some improvement in the FTO, but only down to a 1:58.137, but irritatingly with a 1:57.785 optimum.

Car started doing real stupid **** and my best lap had a fantastic chicane, so it was a setup for failure to try and go faster than that tonight.

If it'll cooperate, a 1:57 should be doable. But that's apparently a BIG if.
 
Hey folks - it’s been a while. Work taking up every hour right now but managed to grab an hour yesterday morning in the NSX at Fuji. Good start, will try and grab 30 mins today as well. Hope everyone is doing well

:gtpflag:

1785074890017.webp
 
Hey everyone. Continuing the streak of people saying hi that have kept a low profile recently ;) ... just wanted to let you know that I'm still around and keeping track of everyone's progress. You guys are awesome.

That, and I also wanted to brag about what will very likely end up being my best TT result to date. I don't know, something must have clicked here, this isn't actually my type of car to be honest 🤣

1785081948734.webp
 
crome
Hey everyone. Continuing the streak of people saying hi that have kept a low profile recently ;) ... just wanted to let you know that I'm still around and keeping track of everyone's progress. You guys are awesome.

That, and I also wanted to brag about what will very likely end up being my best TT result to date. I don't know, something must have clicked here, this isn't actually my type of car to be honest 🤣

View attachment 1553253
Click to expand...
You and @half_sourly are a treasure to the community. Thanks for that and damn, what a lap.

I am quite pleased with an ok gold at Fuji. Unlike Le Mans or GVC there are no pin point accuracy high speed corners or chicanes to be hit. Therefore a mere mortal like me at least has a chance and also a lot of fun.

1785090412077.webp


Accelerating out of T 6/7, 13, 15 as well as 16 (my nemesis) is a hell of a challenge in this car. But unlike the fun killers mentioned above they don't ruin a lap when missed and it is not a complete gamble whether you hit the curb just at exactly the right pixel this time.

1000036723.webp


And what a beauty she is:
1000036724.webp
 
Last edited:
Nice work @crome & @Manimal !!

Made some progress yesterday in the NSX... actually ran a 27.899 but went red by a couple of pixels, so I know the pace can be better, but for now still haven't broken the 1:28 barrier. Missing something here, so will go watch some replays before my next run. Cheers
1785183930105.webp
 
When things go bad, they can always get worse... I was doing the TT and everything was going pretty well. On my best lap, coming out of the last corner, the gearbox shifted from 2nd straight to 4th (my G29 often either misses a shift or shifts up twice, never had this problem on G25 or G27...). I thought, "whatever, it's still a good lap, the gold medal is safe, let's see if I can get a clean lap anyway."
From that moment on, looking at the delta on the straights, I noticed I was suddenly losing time and couldn't figure out why. Then I glanced at the throttle bar and saw it flickering between 100% and 85% with the pedal fully depressed. Needless to say, it was pointless to continue the TT.
So, I took these pedals apart for the hundredth time (my first time doing it on the G29 after 4 years, though back with the G25 and G27 I had to spray contact cleaner into the potentiometers every 5–6 months). I dismantled everything, grabbed the contact cleaner, and sprayed it into the throttle pot. The nozzle got stuck wide open! I pressed it again but it just kept blasting almost all the liquid out. Luckily, I had some paper towels ready to quickly dab the hole and took it outside, but I just couldn't get it to stop. I ended up emptying the whole can and had to clean up "oil" all over the floor, the pedal base, etc.
At least now it seems to be working fine, but I'll get final confirmation next Friday when i do the new TT.

Since I have absolutely no intention of dealing with this circus every 6 months because once this issue pops up, it always comes back I was thinking of buying a mod kit to get rid of these damn potentiometers.
I saw some Hall effect sensors on AliExpress, but I don't really trust 3D-printed parts given the heavy wear and tear these components face. Alternatively, I could completely remove the gears and potentiometers and buy either 2 linear potentiometers or 1 linear + 1 TrueBrake from AXC.

Has anyone tried these mods/upgrades? Do they work well, and most importantly, do they completely eliminate the need for constant maintenance?
 
I have not been too active for about the last 5 or so days. Work is crazy, and things to do at home.
I took the weekend off for my Bday 🍺. I am still 35, but... my body has accomplished level 59. 😎
Fuji S3 is giving me fits, but I will hit a good one soon enough ..... if I can get my knee to cooperate. 😒
 
Car was trash at Yamagiwa tonight, still absolutely would not allow me to achieve a 1:57 tonight...it took me almost 150 miles to even get one whole tenth faster than my previous best (earlier on, it awarded me with a lap 5 thousandths slower...so that was only really infuriating), a 1:58.023...but that's still not a 1:57.

I had two laps that were absolutely on track for a 1:57...and one of them the car just decided it'd do a giant, uncontrollable drift and lose all my time in the final turn...absolute ********.

And yet again I was screwed out of saving my best lap replay because the "Exit session" button has absolutely no form of confirmation. Who playtested this and thought that was fine?
 
Last edited:
RB_Free
Has anyone tried these mods/upgrades? Do they work well, and most importantly, do they completely eliminate the need for constant maintenance?
Click to expand...
Sorry to hear that. Unfortunately I can't help. When I had a G29 I used it mod-free. Hope you find a lasting solution.
 
MP81
Car was trash at Yamagiwa tonight, still absolutely would not allow me to achieve a 1:57 tonight...it took me almost 150 miles to even get one whole tenth faster than my previous best (earlier on, it awarded me with a lap 5 thousandths slower...so that was only really infuriating), a 1:58.023...but that's still not a 1:57.

I had two laps that were absolutely on track for a 1:57...and one of them the car just decided it'd do a giant, uncontrollable drift and lose all my time in the final turn...absolute ********.

And yet again I was screwed out of saving my best lap replay because the "Exit session" button has absolutely no form of confirmation. Who playtested this and thought that was fine?
Click to expand...
That just means you have to beat it again. ;)
 
RB_Free
When things go bad, they can always get worse... I was doing the TT and everything was going pretty well. On my best lap, coming out of the last corner, the gearbox shifted from 2nd straight to 4th (my G29 often either misses a shift or shifts up twice, never had this problem on G25 or G27...). I thought, "whatever, it's still a good lap, the gold medal is safe, let's see if I can get a clean lap anyway."
From that moment on, looking at the delta on the straights, I noticed I was suddenly losing time and couldn't figure out why. Then I glanced at the throttle bar and saw it flickering between 100% and 85% with the pedal fully depressed. Needless to say, it was pointless to continue the TT.
So, I took these pedals apart for the hundredth time (my first time doing it on the G29 after 4 years, though back with the G25 and G27 I had to spray contact cleaner into the potentiometers every 5–6 months). I dismantled everything, grabbed the contact cleaner, and sprayed it into the throttle pot. The nozzle got stuck wide open! I pressed it again but it just kept blasting almost all the liquid out. Luckily, I had some paper towels ready to quickly dab the hole and took it outside, but I just couldn't get it to stop. I ended up emptying the whole can and had to clean up "oil" all over the floor, the pedal base, etc.
At least now it seems to be working fine, but I'll get final confirmation next Friday when i do the new TT.

Since I have absolutely no intention of dealing with this circus every 6 months because once this issue pops up, it always comes back I was thinking of buying a mod kit to get rid of these damn potentiometers.
I saw some Hall effect sensors on AliExpress, but I don't really trust 3D-printed parts given the heavy wear and tear these components face. Alternatively, I could completely remove the gears and potentiometers and buy either 2 linear potentiometers or 1 linear + 1 TrueBrake from AXC.

Has anyone tried these mods/upgrades? Do they work well, and most importantly, do they completely eliminate the need for constant maintenance?
Click to expand...
Aha, I can comment, as I was having a very similar issue on my G923 earlier this year - flickering throttle while my foot was all the way down. Took the pedals apart, sprayed the pot with contact cleaner and it seemed to go away. Until it didn't.

I ended up purchasing AXC's linear potentiometer, TrueBrake and their pedal harness. It actually turns out that my harness was frayed in a random spot and was the culprit, so I was very glad to have purchased it (the factory one is really, really small AWG, so I bought it as insurance if I broke it while modifying the brake and gas pedal guts). The linear pot works incredibly smoothly, and the TrueBrake is a solid piece as well - helps a lot with trail braking.

I also bought their paddle magnet upgrade that just came out, and that is suuuuper nice as well. Very well built stuff.
 
Last edited:
Man I am struggling at Fuji, can get it down to a tenth within gold but then stall. The last sector is a total mystery to me, I can be several tenths slower or faster and have NFI why. As usual, I don't understand how those within 2% are rotating the car so easily, it's like I am playing another game.
 
MP81
Aha, I can comment, as I was having a very similar issue on my G923 earlier this year - flickering throttle while my foot was all the way down. Took the pedals apart, sprayed the pot with contact cleaner and it seemed to go away. Until it didn't.

I ended up purchasing AXC's linear potentiometer, TrueBrake and their pedal harness. It actually turns out that my harness was frayed in a random spot and was the culprit, so I was very glad to have purchased it (the factory one is really, really small AWG, so I bought it as insurance if I broke it while modifying the brake and gas pedal guts). The linear pot works incredibly smoothly, and the TrueBrake is a solid piece as well - helps a lot with trail braking.

I also bought their paddle magnet upgrade that just came out, and that is suuuuper nice as well. Very well built stuff.
Click to expand...
Great! Looking at the reviews and photos, these products seem really well-made, and since they use industrial-grade components, they should be much more durable.

Unfortunately, in my case, it’s 100% the potentiometer. I know because I had a similar issue on both my G25 and G27. Back then, I even went as far as completely dismantling the potentiometer to clean it thoroughly and bending the metal tabs outward to ensure better contact, but the problem would always return after a few months.
Ever since the G27, and now with the G29, I've started wrapping the pedal base in cellophane right out of the box to keep dust out. Doing this actually keeps the inside pristine and delays the first issues for about 3 to 4 years. However, the real culprit is just pure wear and tear as the potentiometer rotates over and over, it inevitably wears down, and there's nothing you can do about that.
On my G27, I fixed the brake deadzone by wedging a wine cork in there to stop the potentiometer cylinder from moving around, but I checked the G29 and there’s no play in it at all, so here too it’s just a matter of wear.
For now, it seems okay; the input curve is linear again, whereas before it was jumping all over the place. I'll see during the next TT if it's actually fixed for the time being. Usually, the main issue pops up or gets worse after about 30–40 minutes of continuous use I guess it heats up from constant rotation and starts giving erratic values, even at 100% throttle.
The wires looked perfect anyway, but if worst comes to worst, I can always rewire everything myself using an ethernet cable and soldering it. That would make it absolutely bulletproof.

In the meantime, over the next few days, I’ll think about whether to get two linear pots or just one plus the TrueBrake, even though I've actually grown used to the "weird" stock G29 brake pedal by now.
 
RB_Free
Great! Looking at the reviews and photos, these products seem really well-made, and since they use industrial-grade components, they should be much more durable.

Unfortunately, in my case, it’s 100% the potentiometer. I know because I had a similar issue on both my G25 and G27. Back then, I even went as far as completely dismantling the potentiometer to clean it thoroughly and bending the metal tabs outward to ensure better contact, but the problem would always return after a few months.
Ever since the G27, and now with the G29, I've started wrapping the pedal base in cellophane right out of the box to keep dust out. Doing this actually keeps the inside pristine and delays the first issues for about 3 to 4 years. However, the real culprit is just pure wear and tear as the potentiometer rotates over and over, it inevitably wears down, and there's nothing you can do about that.
On my G27, I fixed the brake deadzone by wedging a wine cork in there to stop the potentiometer cylinder from moving around, but I checked the G29 and there’s no play in it at all, so here too it’s just a matter of wear.
For now, it seems okay; the input curve is linear again, whereas before it was jumping all over the place. I'll see during the next TT if it's actually fixed for the time being. Usually, the main issue pops up or gets worse after about 30–40 minutes of continuous use I guess it heats up from constant rotation and starts giving erratic values, even at 100% throttle.
The wires looked perfect anyway, but if worst comes to worst, I can always rewire everything myself using an ethernet cable and soldering it. That would make it absolutely bulletproof.

In the meantime, over the next few days, I’ll think about whether to get two linear pots or just one plus the TrueBrake, even though I've actually grown used to the "weird" stock G29 brake pedal by now.
Click to expand...
It costs a bit more, but IMO that TrueBrake has been a nice upgrade. You can adjust how stiff the "lead-in" is, and then you can also adjust the ultimate brake effort. I found it to be very helpful with trail-braking since there's significantly more effort required to get into heavier braking than with the stock spring.

Their harness they make wasn't too expensive, and I only bought it just in case something broke...and then I found out it had indeed...just not where I was expecting it to...and before I even removed anything.
 
I'm finding gold time at Fuji extremely difficult to achieve.
For now, I'm on 1:30.2, 8 tenths from gold, that's far.
 
MP81
It costs a bit more, but IMO that TrueBrake has been a nice upgrade. You can adjust how stiff the "lead-in" is, and then you can also adjust the ultimate brake effort. I found it to be very helpful with trail-braking since there's significantly more effort required to get into heavier braking than with the stock spring.

Their harness they make wasn't too expensive, and I only bought it just in case something broke...and then I found out it had indeed...just not where I was expecting it to...and before I even removed anything.
Click to expand...
Seconding the support for AXC stuff @RB_Free - all the existing stuff can be replaced through their content. I did it all at once just to reduce the amount of times I was taking the rig apart back when I was running my G29.
 
Last edited:
NAXEHT
That just means you have to beat it again. ;)
Click to expand...
I literally went and ran a 1:57.911 on my second lap today. 🤣

Then it took all the way until lap 33 to run my best, a 1:57.767. The 12 laps after that showed some time to be gained (which my optimum of a .498 confirmed), but not anything I could hold all the way until the end.

I think this is where I'll leave this one.



1785289873344.webp
 
Last edited:
MP81
It costs a bit more, but IMO that TrueBrake has been a nice upgrade. You can adjust how stiff the "lead-in" is, and then you can also adjust the ultimate brake effort. I found it to be very helpful with trail-braking since there's significantly more effort required to get into heavier braking than with the stock spring.

Their harness they make wasn't too expensive, and I only bought it just in case something broke...and then I found out it had indeed...just not where I was expecting it to...and before I even removed anything.
Click to expand...
Fun fact... I have a True Brake unit for the G29. It's new, I installed it for a couple hours and took it off. Put it back in the original packaging and threw it in the drawer. It's for sale if anyone is looking for one in the USA. I went to the Gpro pedals and wheel is why I am not using it.
 
Famine
The only part of the game with too few button-presses...
Click to expand...
Absolutely. GT7 UI/UX is a shambles. It is mind bogglingly bad in some parts. And then this replay miss thing as a contrast.

I very rarely save replays but if I think about doing it I accidentally quit the screen early about half the time.
 
Soccmals
Hi @RB_Free

Upgrade for G29

Problem solved with this 👍
Click to expand...
Yeah, I think I'll go with those. I just need to decide whether to spend €57 for two linear pots or €105 for one linear pot plus the TrueBrake.

If I see that the stock potentiometer holds up for now, I might just wait for Black Friday to see if they run any promos. On the other hand, if I still run into issues during the next TT, I’ll just order them straight away.

Thanks everyone for the advice!
 
Hello Time Trial gang!

Hope you are doing well.
Long time no see and seems like comebacks are returning into style... ;)

Mine, however short, seemed kind of fruitful.
Two safe golds with not bad laptimes...

1785359263051.webp


The FTO is my favourite car from the first games, so I was tempted to try it and after couple of sessions managed to dip under 2 minute mark which is enough for me to stop without getting the frustration meter too high.

While at it I also tried the Fuji. While it is not my particularly favourite track, most people seem to hate it so much that my normally average level of driving make me jump up the order, so why not?
The time of mid 28s was the result of about 200 kms of driving it and I'm quite a bit satisfied with it. The group 2 offers the best combination of downforce and speed for my liking, so even my butchery directional button input (plus AT) does not ruin the lap too much. :dopey:
There is some margin left here, but to improve it would take at least double or triple the amount of kilometers with probably rather slim gain, so in order to not blow up the previously mentioned frustration meter, I'll probably stop here.

Greets to everyone writing (and lurking) here!
 

Latest Posts

Back