How do you get 900 degree steering? [fanatec]

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Forza 4 never has true 900 degrees, this is due to the fact that the game is designed around the pad and microsofts 270 degrees wheel. They try and simulate 900 with simulation steering but it isn't quite right.
 
You know Ive never understood this.....What IS 900% of WHAT??

If I put my wheel on 900% on sensitivity and the thing is soooo twitchy that I can handle it......so I have to back it down to about 290 on the sensitivity...I guees this is what your calling "900%"
 
I start the game with a controller & go to the screen to choose single or multi player there i turn off the controller & turn on the fanatec , Then i run it up to 900 degree or whatever .
 
You know Ive never understood this.....What IS 900% of WHAT??

If I put my wheel on 900% on sensitivity and the thing is soooo twitchy that I can handle it......so I have to back it down to about 290 on the sensitivity...I guees this is what your calling "900%"
From what I understand, 900 degrees is the amount of degrees the wheel turns (2 and1/2 revolutions from lock to lock.) Two turns @360 degrees = 720 plus half turn (180) Total = 900 degrees.
Someone please correct me if i am wrong.
 
From what I understand, 900 degrees is the amount of degrees the wheel turns (2 and1/2 revolutions from lock to lock.) Two turns @360 degrees = 720 plus half turn (180) Total = 900 degrees.
Someone please correct me if i am wrong.

So 900 of Sensitivity on Fanatec Wheel = 900%???
 
So 900 of Sensitivity on Fanatec Wheel = 900%???
900 degrees not 900% When wheel Sensitivity is set at 900, the wheel turns 2.5 turns from left to right, or right to left and stop.

If you set the Sen. to 360 then it will turn one full revolution (360 degrees) If you set Sen at 540 then wheel will turn one and one half revolutions.(360 plus 180) (540) and so on. Maybe I am not explaining it very good.:(
 
Ok..I think Im understanding you...But if what your saying is true then maybe my Fanatec isnt working properly since I bought it..Assuming you set the Sensitivity on the wheel to get the rotation desired

Example..My Sen. is set to 270. It feels comfortable to me..it feels more like a real car wheel turning..When I set it any higher it becomes so sensitive the I can barely us it then....maybe Im not understanding very good either....
 
Ok..I think Im understanding you...But if what your saying is true then maybe my Fanatec isnt working properly since I bought it..Assuming you set the Sensitivity on the wheel to get the rotation desired

Example..My Sen. is set to 270. It feels comfortable to me..it feels more like a real car wheel turning..When I set it any higher it becomes so sensitive the I can barely us it then....maybe Im not understanding very good either....
I agree with you. I use 270 most of the time, actually 280, because at 270 I get a lot of disconnects. I rarely use 900. Some people like it. It is just a matter of personal taste.
The only time I might use 900 is on an oval track, to give me smooth lines. Just use what feels right to you. :) Also you might try adding some Linearity to take out that twitchiness.
 
Hey KAT give 720 a try, it is what I use and it isn't as sensitive as 900 but still offers plenty of rotation to get wild!
 
I seam to remember long and heated debates a long time back on sim racing forums when the original and amazing G25 was launched (900deg). It refers to the number of degrees a car steering wheel turns lock to lock.

The general thoughts at the time were that use 900 for road cars, 540 for touring race cars (tuned) and 240-360 for formula cars.

The game should detect what you've selected and map accordingly.

However...... As was written above, the only way to get the Fanatec to work correctly is to start the game with the Fanatec wheel disconnected (I leave it off) then when the game starts disconnect the original controller (hold down Xbox button and wait for menu, select disconnect controller) then connect the Fanatec wheel. At this point it will work at 900 degrees and 540, if you change to lower you may see a brief disconnection of the wheel and reconnection to force it to use the lower number of degrees. Personally I only use 900 or 540 if you don't follow this process the wheel may feel way too sensitive. Also when using a wheel remember to dial out the null zones in the advanced controller settings..

Good luck and enjoy.

P.S. the lower numbers are more sensitive since they reflect less effort to go from wheel lock to wheel lock ( more steering movement per degree) if its not the case you probably didn't pair the wheel as above.
 
I seam to remember long and heated debates a long time back on sim racing forums when the original and amazing G25 was launched (900deg). It refers to the number of degrees a car steering wheel turns lock to lock.

The general thoughts at the time were that use 900 for road cars, 540 for touring race cars (tuned) and 240-360 for formula cars.

The game should detect what you've selected and map accordingly.

However...... As was written above, the only way to get the Fanatec to work correctly is to start the game with the Fanatec wheel disconnected (I leave it off) then when the game starts disconnect the original controller (hold down Xbox button and wait for menu, select disconnect controller) then connect the Fanatec wheel. At this point it will work at 900 degrees and 540, if you change to lower you may see a brief disconnection of the wheel and reconnection to force it to use the lower number of degrees. Personally I only use 900 or 540 if you don't follow this process the wheel may feel way too sensitive. Also when using a wheel remember to dial out the null zones in the advanced controller settings..

Good luck and enjoy.

P.S. the lower numbers are more sensitive since they reflect less effort to go from wheel lock to wheel lock ( more steering movement per degree) if its not the case you probably didn't pair the wheel as above.
Good point, I use to do this all the time, but I didn't notest the infamous hypersenitivivity usually in the middle, if I am correct. I thought this was only an issue with Forza, is that correct?
I use setting "OFF" for Sen. in Forza 4, which from what I understand defaults to 270 when using the above procedure.

What do you mean when you say "dial out the null zones"? Do you mean if a throttle inside deadzone is set by default to zero, then change to at least the value of one? (1) or do you mean "zero out" any features that don't apply? This is new to me, and am very interested, but don't quite understand. Thanks in advance for your answer. :)
 
Good point, I use to do this all the time, but I didn't notest the infamous hypersenitivivity usually in the middle, if I am correct. I thought this was only an issue with Forza, is that correct?
I use setting "OFF" for Sen. in Forza 4, which from what I understand defaults to 270 when using the above procedure.

What do you mean when you say "dial out the null zones"? Do you mean if a throttle inside deadzone is set by default to zero, then change to at least the value of one? (1) or do you mean "zero out" any features that don't apply? This is new to me, and am very interested, but don't quite understand. Thanks in advance for your answer. :)

Factors that will effect the way the wheel performs (apart from the driver) are: The Game settings, The Wheel settings, the wheel firmware.

Firmware:

Since FW 742B default SENS is "OFF" = 900°

you can find the info here:
http://911wheel.de/?q=node/8543

Game Difficulty:
Also I like simulated Wheel mode from the difficulty settings. stick with it I think it gives a lot more detail via the wheel.

Game Controller Profile Settings:


Goto Advanced controller settings and remember to set the steering axis deadzone inside and outside to 0 and 100, otherwise you have a dead zone in the middle.

Also turn the FFB up full.

Fanatec Wheel settings:

This is a Personal Choice..

I use:

Sensitivity (SEn): 900
Force feedback strength (FF): 100
Vibration strength (Sho): 100
Drift mode (dri): Off
ABS: 40
Linearity (Lin): 0
Deadzone (dEA): 0
Spring (SPr): 0
Damper (dPr): -4 (play with this a bit)

But you have to figure out what works for you. I use these settings on my CSR-ELITE with Clubsport V1 Pedals.

good luck
 
I am aware of these settings, and I am sure they will be very helpful.

What do you mean to dial out the null zones in the advanced settings in your earlier post? I ask because I have the exact same setup as you, except I am using the 721b FW since Dec 2011. I got the Elite from the first batch, shipped with 715 FW installed, but the wheel was useless, with a huge deadzone in the middle until 721b came out just before I took receipt of the wheel. Never changed since. "Off" Sen = default to 270 with 721b FW. I still get 900 degrees, when set to 900, so it is all about which firmware you use, which what katpeeler might want to change for better results. :)
 
I cannot remember what firmware I got but I think its the same one since last year for my CSR...But I do know that when i put my sensitivity to 900 my wheel is so sensitive that even the slightest movement the car is all over the place and cannot see how anyone can drive like this....

In the next couple days Ill power on my wheel to double check my settings AND Firmware...Can anyone remind me how to find the Firmware??..I remember it is holding 2 buttons down but dont know which..Thanx
 
I cannot remember what firmware I got but I think its the same one since last year for my CSR...But I do know that when i put my sensitivity to 900 my wheel is so sensitive that even the slightest movement the car is all over the place and cannot see how anyone can drive like this....

In the next couple days Ill power on my wheel to double check my settings AND Firmware...Can anyone remind me how to find the Firmware??..I remember it is holding 2 buttons down but dont know which..Thanx


How to check your CSR wheel's firmware and verify firmware successful installation:

Power up the wheel, let the wheel rotate completely in one direction, and wait for the wheel to rotate back in the opposite direction.

Press buttons A and B, and while keeping them pressed, simultaneously press the two lower red buttons. Order...A, then B, then the two reds simultaneously.

The firmware version will briefly be displayed followed by ON or OFF.
ON = Internal fans constantly on.
OFF = Internal fans are temperature controlled.

Repeat the process to shift fans between ON and OFF.

I have a friend in the UK who has tried evey firmware and driver there is for the CSR. He is a Forza fanatic as well. I will get a hold of him ASAP and tell you what he reccomends. Some of the CSR FW versions had some bugs. Might be tommorow with the time difference.
Also I would start FM4 with the controller as suggested above until you are on the track, then pull battery out and start wheel. Or you can turn off the wheel by holding in xbox button and select "Turn off Controller" and reboot wheel. I prefer the controller method personally. Guess it don't really matter.
 
He recommends 737 FW with driver 116. From what I've read 750FW won't save settings, unless they fixed it. Good luck.

This is for the CSR correct??....I will check it out in a couple days to let you know for sure but those numbers don't sound familiar.......But my settings do stay saved....Also how do I know what driver its using...Will I have to hook it up to the computer again??.....
 
This might take me a while...but Ill report back to this thread with my findings and questions....But looking at the date of the post for driver 116 I know I havent' installed it at that date so I must have an older version....
 
Have Firmware 706..Going thru the process of updating driver.....Trying to remember..If I dont get it figure out tonight Ill try again tomorroo
 
Ok......I think I succesfuly downloaded and installed 737...And it said it installed a driver but cant find what driver number....It will be a couple of days before I can play again so maybe I have it right...Any help will be apreciatied..
 
Ok......I think I succesfuly downloaded and installed 737...And it said it installed a driver but cant find what driver number....It will be a couple of days before I can play again so maybe I have it right...Any help will be apreciatied..
When you plug wheel into PC, Power on wheel, let it calibrate, then hold the "BACK" button until you hear a bleep, and/or wheel jerks a bit. Now you are in PC mode.

Left double click on the Fanatec Properties icon on desktop, then click on Properties in the window that opened, and then you should see a big window open with a picture of your wheel and pedal telementry, etc. At the top of the page there is a tab that says "Update" Click on that tab and it should say what driver you have.
 
^^Thanx...I will check this out MAYBE tonight but defenitly tomorroo night....If it tells me that I dont have driver 116 will it prompt me to install??.....I just want to get some info before I hook it up so I will know......Also, sorry for high-jacking this thread from OP...
 
No I dont think it will prompt you. Just install from the link I gave you, if you dont have it already. I think you should uninstall any other versions of drivers first, and i don't know much about that, or firmware installation. A friend helped me a year ago.
 
HELP!!!.....Ok...Have installed 737 on my CSR and I guees it downloaded the 116 driver because when I followed your instructions it told me my driver was 116...

Now my wheel is jerking on me when I turn....like it is over compensating my FFB..I put in the below settings which wasn't to far off from my original settings...What do I do??..Also the wheel isn't centering



Sensitivity (SEn): 530
Force feedback strength (FF): 100
Vibration strength (Sho): 100
Drift mode (dri): 5
ABS: 0
Linearity (Lin): 0
Deadzone (dEA): 0
Spring (SPr): -2
Damper (dPr):3


Update====I installed a new driver #142 and put my dEA on 10 and that seemed to help a little...Tired of messing with it tonight..Ill check it out tomorroo with a clear head.....I got so many differnt drivers/firwares on my desktop its crazy
 
HELP!!!.....Ok...Have installed 737 on my CSR and I guees it downloaded the 116 driver because when I followed your instructions it told me my driver was 116...

Now my wheel is jerking on me when I turn....like it is over compensating my FFB..I put in the below settings which wasn't to far off from my original settings...What do I do??..Also the wheel isn't centering



Sensitivity (SEn): 530
Force feedback strength (FF): 100
Vibration strength (Sho): 100
Drift mode (dri): 5
ABS: 0
Linearity (Lin): 0
Deadzone (dEA): 0
Spring (SPr): -2
Damper (dPr):3


Update====I installed a new driver #142 and put my dEA on 10 and that seemed to help a little...Tired of messing with it tonight..Ill check it out tomorroo with a clear head.....I got so many differnt drivers/firwares on my desktop its crazy
That's strange. I have read about a lot of people with the CSR that love 737FW.
As I said I don't know much about changing FW. I would either get some suggestions from the guys here that have a CSR or post over here ....http://f-wheel.com/ There is a forum section to introduce yourself and a resolving problems section for you to post. Someone there or here can give you more help regarding uninstalling drivers and firmware applications. Don't worry, there is a lot of help.
I don't mean to "drop the ball" it's just that I don't have the expertise in these areas. I only changed drivers and firmware once on my Elite in one year, and that was using Skype with a friend and two laptops, so he could guide me. I am a pc noob. :P You will get it all sorted, don't worry.
 
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