From what I understand, 900 degrees is the amount of degrees the wheel turns (2 and1/2 revolutions from lock to lock.) Two turns @360 degrees = 720 plus half turn (180) Total = 900 degrees.You know Ive never understood this.....What IS 900% of WHAT??
If I put my wheel on 900% on sensitivity and the thing is soooo twitchy that I can handle it......so I have to back it down to about 290 on the sensitivity...I guees this is what your calling "900%"
From what I understand, 900 degrees is the amount of degrees the wheel turns (2 and1/2 revolutions from lock to lock.) Two turns @360 degrees = 720 plus half turn (180) Total = 900 degrees.
Someone please correct me if i am wrong.
900 degrees not 900% When wheel Sensitivity is set at 900, the wheel turns 2.5 turns from left to right, or right to left and stop.So 900 of Sensitivity on Fanatec Wheel = 900%???
I agree with you. I use 270 most of the time, actually 280, because at 270 I get a lot of disconnects. I rarely use 900. Some people like it. It is just a matter of personal taste.Ok..I think Im understanding you...But if what your saying is true then maybe my Fanatec isnt working properly since I bought it..Assuming you set the Sensitivity on the wheel to get the rotation desired
Example..My Sen. is set to 270. It feels comfortable to me..it feels more like a real car wheel turning..When I set it any higher it becomes so sensitive the I can barely us it then....maybe Im not understanding very good either....
Good point, I use to do this all the time, but I didn't notest the infamous hypersenitivivity usually in the middle, if I am correct. I thought this was only an issue with Forza, is that correct?I seam to remember long and heated debates a long time back on sim racing forums when the original and amazing G25 was launched (900deg). It refers to the number of degrees a car steering wheel turns lock to lock.
The general thoughts at the time were that use 900 for road cars, 540 for touring race cars (tuned) and 240-360 for formula cars.
The game should detect what you've selected and map accordingly.
However...... As was written above, the only way to get the Fanatec to work correctly is to start the game with the Fanatec wheel disconnected (I leave it off) then when the game starts disconnect the original controller (hold down Xbox button and wait for menu, select disconnect controller) then connect the Fanatec wheel. At this point it will work at 900 degrees and 540, if you change to lower you may see a brief disconnection of the wheel and reconnection to force it to use the lower number of degrees. Personally I only use 900 or 540 if you don't follow this process the wheel may feel way too sensitive. Also when using a wheel remember to dial out the null zones in the advanced controller settings..
Good luck and enjoy.
P.S. the lower numbers are more sensitive since they reflect less effort to go from wheel lock to wheel lock ( more steering movement per degree) if its not the case you probably didn't pair the wheel as above.
Good point, I use to do this all the time, but I didn't notest the infamous hypersenitivivity usually in the middle, if I am correct. I thought this was only an issue with Forza, is that correct?
I use setting "OFF" for Sen. in Forza 4, which from what I understand defaults to 270 when using the above procedure.
What do you mean when you say "dial out the null zones"? Do you mean if a throttle inside deadzone is set by default to zero, then change to at least the value of one? (1) or do you mean "zero out" any features that don't apply? This is new to me, and am very interested, but don't quite understand. Thanks in advance for your answer.
I cannot remember what firmware I got but I think its the same one since last year for my CSR...But I do know that when i put my sensitivity to 900 my wheel is so sensitive that even the slightest movement the car is all over the place and cannot see how anyone can drive like this....
In the next couple days Ill power on my wheel to double check my settings AND Firmware...Can anyone remind me how to find the Firmware??..I remember it is holding 2 buttons down but dont know which..Thanx
^^Thanx..
He recommends 737 FW with driver 116. From what I've read 750FW won't save settings, unless they fixed it. Good luck.
When you plug wheel into PC, Power on wheel, let it calibrate, then hold the "BACK" button until you hear a bleep, and/or wheel jerks a bit. Now you are in PC mode.Ok......I think I succesfuly downloaded and installed 737...And it said it installed a driver but cant find what driver number....It will be a couple of days before I can play again so maybe I have it right...Any help will be apreciatied..
That's strange. I have read about a lot of people with the CSR that love 737FW.HELP!!!.....Ok...Have installed 737 on my CSR and I guees it downloaded the 116 driver because when I followed your instructions it told me my driver was 116...
Now my wheel is jerking on me when I turn....like it is over compensating my FFB..I put in the below settings which wasn't to far off from my original settings...What do I do??..Also the wheel isn't centering
Sensitivity (SEn): 530
Force feedback strength (FF): 100
Vibration strength (Sho): 100
Drift mode (dri): 5
ABS: 0
Linearity (Lin): 0
Deadzone (dEA): 0
Spring (SPr): -2
Damper (dPr):3
Update====I installed a new driver #142 and put my dEA on 10 and that seemed to help a little...Tired of messing with it tonight..Ill check it out tomorroo with a clear head.....I got so many differnt drivers/firwares on my desktop its crazy