Ibo's Garage - TTRS3GTR

[homeforsummer]

Big 👍 to you both for all the info in this thread. Makes for a fascinating read. Really looking forward to seeing how the car comes out.

 

[Ibonibo]

Well today was better.
1.5 parts done. Finito. Fertig. Fini. Ferdeg.

This is one of the last few bits with red on it (this x2, plus a bit of overspray on some engine bay parts.
Old vs restored:

Galvanised:

Next tackle the , hopefully, little rust on the driver's fender:

Bubbles = bad:

So this black (I futher smalled it down), is that rost or just heatcoloured metal??
I don't see any brown in there just black.
Do I need to go deeper??

The edges were quite affected (area size, not degree of rust)

At least this time the lip is in perfect condition. Sad I had to take the good galvanization of. Good, I know it's save now

Galvanized:

That plus a bit of cleaning was all that was done today. Tomorrow the fender will be done.
Plus some other part probably too. Advancement, Yeay !!!

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Yes that black pitted looking stuff is rust. The first indication it was rust was the bubbles. You will want to remove all of that.

Glad to see the other fender was ok. Did you check the rear quarter panels yet?

 

[Ibonibo]

I need to put the car on stands because it still has some covers on the rear quaters, in order to remove them, it needs to be jacked up.

Thanks for the rost advice, again 👍

 

[Ibonibo]

Rost is gone. Enough thickness left, at least it doesn't fold like tinfoil

Now Exterior side:

Done: Sanded the whole exterior on a bit for more mechanical grip. (240grid)

Gloves on, cleaning, first coat of zinc

And then started on the front bumper. Pristine original paint on it, so just passing over it with 240 grid

Are there any special tools, pads, towels (i remember something like a scotch towel :?: ) for those tiny spots where the smallest of fingers can't even reach ?

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

You are making some really good progress. Glad you see you removed the "black" rust from the previous discussion. Good thing you asked me about that because that rust would have come back to haunt you in a few years. Now you wont have to worry about it.

For the little tiny sections where fingers cant reach you will just have to get creative. You can try to lightly touch them with the dremel tools. Or you can fold sandpaper over screwdrivers or fold the sandpaper over other long tiny objects. SOS pad or scotch pad on the end of a screw driver will work too.

 

[Ibonibo]

^Yeah better get rid of all the brown pest while we at it

Good advice with the screwdriver 👍

This is the reason why the car is still not on jackstands :

Moving around the car to get all the dust /insert *get all things* meme ]

I was looking for painter tables (the foldables legs thingy stuff), which I obviously didn't find, but I found those stands.
1 for the bumper, 1 for a table. Still some more left that I need to get down.

And so the windows got removed

Under the windows the inevitable rust, some bubles were pretty far.
(yeah smartphone having problem to focus... )

These are/were pretty deep:

takled the sills

Looks like this further going down

Taking off the last part of the window trim:

Go rust, go

A start of rust at the beginning of the roof

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

That's looking great. Make sure to get out ALL the rust and if the rust pit holes are fairly deep you can put the bondo glass in there. This is also where the epoxy primer truly shines. You can put on quite a few light layers around the windows to help smooth out the pits. I would load on at least 5-6 layers of epoxy primer around the sills. Hit them hard from every angle. Seal shut any of the pinch welds or areas where metal will allow moister to enter. Like that last picture, seal all of that shut with either the fiberglass or the primer. Anywhere you think moisture will enter, seal it shut. If air can enter, then so can moisture. So seal off any access.

 

[Ibonibo]

Can you help getting the quantities right?

(us gallon = 3.78l)

I got now:

4 Liters of Epoxy
2 L of hardener for the epoxy (so 6 liters total, is that enough with plastering it in all the corners, backsides, sills,....???)

6 Liters of predilluated paint

The filler I have, will return, I don't know the price yet, but it's grey, In need a black undercoat for the color, so getting filler in black = efficiency

4 Liters of back filler should be enough for only the visible parts?

I also got a liter of Plastic cleaner(antistatic), 1l of plastic primer, 1 liter of elastifier for the clear coat on the soft plastics (the cheap shop actually recommended it, as their experience with it is good)

Also on the plastic parts, as it's an other primer and they don't recommand the standard 2k filler on the plastic, but have a special plastic filler (which you don't need)... I will not have a black coat to start the blue on. Just can spraying it black?? What is the best way here?

Should I take a bit more epoxy and color?? I mean it would be a real pain, not having enough in the job, with nowhere to get it "quickly enough".

I going to order a bit more clear too. But I will keep the expensiver clear too (5 liters undilluated). Then I will have a complete paint job by one manufacturer, from primer up to the clear, and gonna top it off after a mid sand between the clears, with the expensiver clear, that is scratch resistant...


So removed the plastic glue and partial control of rust (none was found here):

Front needs a final go over it, and then it can be coldgalvanized

Paint arrived:

Cleaned the hidden bay section which was full of mediablast sand ( only ine spot with slight surface rust)

Starting on the hood, otherside.

Not a fun experience, one one side it was very okay to sand, because the right hand, on the other side, ohh the pain, and so many small gaps, bends,..... My fingers , wrist, shoulders and back are well worked now

nearly got it finished.

I really need to start taping off
Still a red border around the door lip that need to come off

(interior need near complete disasseble because mediablast. At least the carpet will need to move. But that's for later)

Passenger side started. No red

But still a bit to go

This is my nemesis since day1 were I saw it. It just gives me shivers. So hard to get anyting in, not speaking of getting the tool angled right....

Hood underside done 99%

That with the front bumper at 99% since 2 days, + the driver side of the fender holder and the complete front end is done.

Probably for friday. Tomorrow, i need to return to the shop and get the primer back, order the paint. Hopefully that goes quickly....

Also bought myself a little helper:

For 80 bucks, thanks amazon )

to be continued ....

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Can you help getting the quantities right?

(us gallon = 3.78l)

I got now:

4 Liters of Epoxy
2 L of hardener for the epoxy (so 6 liters total, is that enough with plastering it in all the corners, backsides, sills,....???)

6 Liters of predilluated paint

The filler I have, will return, I don't know the price yet, but it's grey, In need a black undercoat for the color, so getting filler in black = efficiency

4 Liters of back filler should be enough for only the visible parts?

I also got a liter of Plastic cleaner(antistatic), 1l of plastic primer, 1 liter of elastifier for the clear coat on the soft plastics (the cheap shop actually recommended it, as their experience with it is good)

Also on the plastic parts, as it's an other primer and they don't recommand the standard 2k filler on the plastic, but have a special plastic filler (which you don't need)... I will not have a black coat to start the blue on. Just can spraying it black?? What is the best way here?

Should I take a bit more epoxy and color?? I mean it would be a real pain, not having enough in the job, with nowhere to get it "quickly enough".

I going to order a bit more clear too. But I will keep the expensiver clear too (5 liters undilluated). Then I will have a complete paint job by one manufacturer, from primer up to the clear, and gonna top it off after a mid sand between the clears, with the expensiver clear, that is scratch resistant...


So removed the plastic glue and partial control of rust (none was found here):

Front needs a final go over it, and then it can be coldgalvanized

Paint arrived:

Cleaned the hidden bay section which was full of mediablast sand ( only ine spot with slight surface rust)

Starting on the hood, otherside.

Not a fun experience, one one side it was very okay to sand, because the right hand, on the other side, ohh the pain, and so many small gaps, bends,..... My fingers , wrist, shoulders and back are well worked now

nearly got it finished.

I really need to start taping off
Still a red border around the door lip that need to come off

(interior need near complete disasseble because mediablast. At least the carpet will need to move. But that's for later)

Passenger side started. No red

But still a bit to go

This is my nemesis since day1 were I saw it. It just gives me shivers. So hard to get anyting in, not speaking of getting the tool angled right....

Hood underside done 99%

That with the front bumper at 99% since 2 days, + the driver side of the fender holder and the complete front end is done.

Probably for friday. Tomorrow, i need to return to the shop and get the primer back, order the paint. Hopefully that goes quickly....

Also bought myself a little helper:

For 80 bucks, thanks amazon )

to be continued ....

Hopefully I am reading everything you said properly.

Yes you have enough primer for sure. A gallon will easily do multiple cars inside and out. No you don't need to add color to the primer.

I am a little confused with the primer color difference you are talking about. Before you spray your base coat the entire car MUJST be the same color primer. After you apply the plastic primer I would at least put a few coats of epoxy on EVERY single part. If you don't want to epoxy everything then then yes spray cans of spray primer will work too. Just make sure the spray cans of primer are the same color as all the epoxy primer. Otherwise you run the risk of having different color plastic parts compared to the metal parts.

Yes you have enough base coat for sure too.

Most definitely enough clear coat which as I said before, you can never have too much clear.

As you already know, make sure you remove ALL rust you see or it will come back to haunt you. Areas that are inside the car like that you can remove the rust, then spray undercoating into that area. You can get cans of undercoating at the paint store or any automotive store. I would not waste much base coat or clear coat in those hidden areas. Undercoat them for sure. Or if you really want to paint them use a couple very light coats, then undercoat after the paint has dried.

Did they give you any paint filter cones? These are a must!


Hopefully that clears up any confusion.

 

[Ibonibo]

Thanks. And yes have around 20 of those filter cones 190um, I think. And if I wouldn't have asked for it,...

On the color. The blue I have, it's advised to have a black surface for better coverage I think.Oh for the color to pop more... So after the epoxy, I would go for a layer of filler (in black) and then paint on that the colour layer.

Now that the plastics aren't black but probably grey from the primer and have not recieved the filler layer. Is it enough to just paint them black first (color layer) before the blue color layer ?
Or better to do the whole car black via a black color layer?


Hope my jibberish's making more sense now

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Thanks. And yes have around 20 of those filter cones 190um, I think. And if I wouldn't have asked for it,...

On the color. The blue I have, it's advised to have a black surface for better coverage I think.Oh for the color to pop more... So after the epoxy, I would go for a layer of filler (in black) and then paint on that the colour layer.

Now that the plastics aren't black but probably grey from the primer and have not recieved the filler layer. Is it enough to just paint them black first (color layer) before the blue color layer ?
Or better to do the whole car black via a black color layer?


Hope my jibberish's making more sense now

Ahh yes that makes perfect sense. You need to paint a "filler" color layer of black primer to make the blue pop better. The black under the blue will make the blue darker but it sounds like that is what you are going for. Yes makes perfect sense. And yes you can just spray can the black color if you want over everything. Just make sure the "black" you use is some sort of primer and that the coverage is even. You don't want an actual "paint" under your base coat. It must be primer.

You are getting very close to the really fun stuff now. My favorite part is the taping, primer, base and clear. So many good times are coming your way.

 

[coop500]

Great progress. Nice to see someone tackling this themselves

 

[Ibonibo]

^Thanks 👍

@CAMAROBOY69 : Okay, that makes sense.
I just returned the grey primer, in order to have one manufacture for the different coats. Not wanting unwanted chemical reactions. Not again !
Emailed the shop now, what they have for black to prime the bumpers and plastics 👍
bought some jackstands, for better working on sills, rear quaters.
Now lunchtime, and then going to work a bit on the car

 

[Ibonibo]

Well productive today (or it rather went better than expected)

Front end done apart from the fender holder and their counterpieces (spot rust removal)

Bumper got normally all the spots, will do the small parts once again to be sure, but should be enough already, just making sure

No pic of bumper, because same old.

Bonnet, hood done, looks better in one single colour

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Looking very good. Always feels go to get a part all the same color.

Before you get to the actual base coat I am sure you already know to start with the jams and inside areas first, then work your way out.

 

[Ibonibo]

Thanks. Yes

I wanted to spray all taken apart? Bad idea?
That's what the hooks in the celling will be good for, Hanging up the doors, fenders,...

Or you mean start witht he jams, because overspary, spray fog laying down on the already sprayed sides?

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Thanks. Yes

I wanted to spray all taken apart? Bad idea?
That's what the hooks in the celling will be good for, Hanging up the doors, fenders,...

Or you mean start witht he jams, because overspary, spray fog laying down on the already sprayed sides?

Yes spray jams and inner parts first and let fog to the exterior "visible" side of the parts. THEN spray the exterior of the parts last so the "fog" or overspray sprays back into the jams.

Since you are spraying the car with the car apart make sure the final "Visible" exterior parts are all sprayed with the same pot of paint PER side. Visualize your car as a 4 sided square. Front, driver side, rear, and passenger side. That's the 4 sides people see. Each of the 4 sides need to be hit with the same mixture on the last couple coats.

For example if you are spraying the driver fender, driver door, and driver quarter of the car, use the same mixed pot of paint for that. If you spray individual parts with different mixed pots of paint, you take the risk of having a different amount of metal flake or different color.

Hopefully this makes sense because this process is critical since you are going to have the parts off the car. .

 

[Ronald6]

Even if @Ibonibo doesn't find your comments useful, @CAMAROBOY69, I sure do. 👍

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Even if @Ibonibo doesn't find your comments useful, @CAMAROBOY69, I sure do. 👍

That's great to hear. I am sure there are some lurkers soaking in some knowledge too. 👍

 

[Ibonibo]

I more than appreciate @CAMAROBOY69 's advices. .


Well today, ordered the rest of the paint. Discussed a bit with the guys over the phone.
Sorted the black surface problem. Their plastic filler is gonna do the trick and guarentee a proper finish and adeshion.

Also took a liter of BMW Ruby Black for the plastic covers

Sorted now with the paint. I should, as pointed out by Camaroboy, have more than enough. But I rather have a bit more than I need than missing 100ml of paint.

15 Liters of CC Should be plenty 130€ for 7.5liters (hardener incl.) or 40€ for a liter (hardener excl.)... Easy choice.

So what did I do today:

Cleaned the worst part of the passenger jams ( the bottom part is slightly ondulated and thus not easy to sand)

And I tackled my Nemesis:

So much time went into this and I still need to go at it. Needed to sratch a big part out as rust was beneath it. Still some more on the under part. Upper part seems to be okay from here on.
I just fear it is on the whole bottom part. It's not even big incrused, But it being between to metal sheets make for an ordeal.

That's it. Proably spend 2-3 hours on this alone. Space is so tight, even the dremel has problems going in

And my everyday cleaning seems to turn out as a wise choice. It's getting really clean inside.
👍 And then the aspirator is still there. Covering the floor and wetting it are also still good options. Enough to minimise dust to an acceptable level

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

NP glad I am able to help and even happier that you are listening to the advice.

Looking killer. So glad you are going out of your way to get every bit of rust off of it that you can. Removing rust sucks and is back breaking nasty work. But doing it right up front like this will guarantee a paint job that will last many years down the road. Otherwise you would start seeing rust within 5 years and have to repaint again. So give yourself a huge pat on the back for the extra work to do it right the first time. I have no doubt in my mind this will be a show quality paint job when finished that will last many years.

 

[Ibonibo]

So I should not run into a shortage of taping of plastic

My new rust buddy:
Mediablast gun

Tried it at the small place with the multiple metal sheets. Works well enough. I do not fear the sills anymore
With this the sills should go fairly quick 👍

Problem with the tight spot seems to be a bit of rust between the metal sheets. Which I can not completly open....
That is what the hammerite is for. I'm still trying to get every bit out, but in case I overlooked one or missed one, I plaster this in.

Started with the small rest of the red on the roofwindow

Tapped the front of.
Got rid of all the rust on the window front trim, every bit. Extincted
Then cleaned it, and zinc'ed it.

A buddy came to help and tapped of the rest of the car apart from the drivers door.

👍

Progress

 

[Ibonibo]

Is dat you rusty?

Rustfree + cleaned a few times

Done here

Done there:

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

Looking killer! You made some excellent progress over the weekend.

 

[Ibonibo]

Thanks.

Today the rest of the paint was sent.👍

One hour in:

Little bs stuff like this holds up

(Locker of the filler cap)

Done Sanding, now cleaning....

Ohh my nemesis looks like this after throwing some sand at it

Cleaned:

Zinc'd (other color but same stuff)

Still missing on that side Door, sills, rear arch, Nemesis spot (we need to go deeper)

Tomorrow the rear

 

[CAMAROBOY69]

I really like that fill cap pic. I lot of hard work sanding all those lips and curves. Like you said its those little tiny areas that take so much time.

 

[Ibonibo]

Yeah it is. and it's great seeing so big progress too. Door should be easy, it looks really good. Sills with the mediablaster should be okay too. Hopefully no big rust surprises. Then if all goes smooth, end of week body finished. Most of the plastic is already good to go. Need a soft sand to even out...
Next week painting. Fingers crossed.

 

[Leonidae@MFT]

Good work, keep it up! Never give up, never surrender!

 

[Ibonibo]

^Thanks.

It's like running. Just do the steps. Don't think of all the steps laying in front of you, just do the few steps now. And when you look back up, you've come a long way 👍

My Shoulders do cry "surrender" though, but I just keep going, they might fall off, don't care

1hour in:

Little rust only, easy

Real easy:

More red

Done:

Done:

More done

It's just that part at the drivers door though...


Zinc'd

And this is why it is soo incredible important to get the red off:

Very small dots like these, the primer should enclose, but I try to get every little particle, just as with the rust