iracing.com

  • Thread starter Thread starter red7
  • 21,623 comments
  • 1,427,326 views
Kamuifanboy
What sort of lap time is respectable in the DP at Daytona Road Daytime? I just put down a 1:38.9 in Quali trim.

That's a pretty good time, my personal best was 1:39.6 in race trim during a practice session for the 2.4.
 
That's a pretty good time, my personal best was 1:39.6 in race trim during a practice session for the 2.4.

I guess I'm not doing as bad as I thought then lol. I think the daytime is a bit slower than daytime as well. Any tips for the setup? I've basically got rid of all the downforce. And lowered the car a ton. It seemed to help but, I haven't touched the caster which seems crazy high. +10.3 seems just insane.
 
Didn't realise it was promotions last night for licenses so I'm happy that I'm now a Class D license holder :D
 
Yay, class C road :) Going to run in the Grand-Am this season.
Does anyone have a Daytime setup for the McLaren at Daytona road? I tried my night setup and lowered/raised the tyre pressure but nothing really made a difference. Managed a 1:45.1xx as my fastest.
 
The new trading paints program seems to be working now. And what a program it is. If this works flawlessly, could be a life saver for those of us with our iRacing files on an SSD.
 
I just read up on the new Trading Paints. Haven't tried it yet, but that sounds great! Had fun in a couple of late model races last night. It was my first experience with the car. Finished 4th in the 2nd split. Then qualified, and finished 4th in the top split in the next race. Both with 0 incidents. I think I'm starting to like oval, and I'm not quite sure how I feel about that. :)
 
I’m trying my hand at my first skin, but I can’t seem to get it to show up in the sim. How do I do it so it does?
 
I’m trying my hand at my first skin, but I can’t seem to get it to show up in the sim. How do I do it so it does?

Save it as a 16-bit .tga. Make sure you .tga is labeled as your iRacing Member number. Then you find you iRacing folder in "My documents" and go to paints/(car you painted) and paste it in there. Finally load up iRacing and it should be in there.
 
The final tga should be saved as a 24 bit tga. I would also strongly recommend turning on RLE compression on the TGA to help cut the size of the texture down.

From http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/2219.page

So 16bit isn't correct. It will work, but we wan't it to be as good as it get!

Whoops. Thanks for correcting me on the bit size. I wasn't 100% sure about which bit size but 16 sounded familiar for some reason so I went with it lol.

24 bit is what you will want to do.
 
I really want this sim back. I got it whilst it was 3 months for the price of one but never resubscribed because my gear wasn't suited to the simulation nature of it. I just really wish they'd drop the subscription system and just let people buy it permanently.
 
Cadillac has a 3 months for free deal still I believe if you're interested in that.. That subscription pays for regular updates that actually have some community input. They don't put in everything we suggest, but a few things people suggested (me included) were put in the last build and I don't mind paying as long as they keep that up :)
 
If you take the Caddy promo they also send you a code to renew for a year at only 49$ (US).
Granted it's still a subscription, but at that price it's hard to argue the value (15 months of racing for 49$).
 
Well worth it, trust me. GT5 is collecting dust on my shelf right now, a bit of a shame but iRacing is to addictive..
 
I didn't do it properly the last time I had it. I only had a 180 degrees wheel. Now I have the full 900, I think it'll enhance it loads. I really can't wait to buy the Skip Barber.
 
Thats good to hear Hydro. I assume they send it when the subscription is about to end?

They sent me the code about 3 weeks into the deal and it has a window of ~45 days for use (end of Feb for me). It works like the Black friday deals in that the year subscription starts once my 3 months free ends regardless of when I pay the 49$.
 
Well worth it, trust me. GT5 is collecting dust on my shelf right now, a bit of a shame but iRacing is to addictive..

I raced almost every Sunday night in a wonderful GT5 league for over a year. Great group of guys that I really miss, but I haven't even turned on GT5 since I got my triple screens.
 
Finally got my scheme working in the sim, will post the picture of it tomorrow. Does anyone know if the new trading paints works? I have iRacing on a SSD so I hope it doesn’t take up too much space 👍
 
Just did my first race of the season, and fortunately I won the GT3 class race, 5th place overall. It was mostly due to this though:



But hey, I'll take it. :D
 
How would you compare the CSR-Elite to your CSW with the BMW rim. I had the Elite wheel and it was problematic. When I turned it to far in any direction it sounded a sewing machine and the vibration was very strong. Also I could not feel the dips or bumps in the road in iRacing, I think it was just to smooth. No doubt the motors were strong but as I mentioned they didn't relay a sense of the road, at least not like my T500's do.

I am still interested in getting a CSW with the road rim providing it is well supported.

My Elite was fine with no problems. That's strange you couldn't feel bumps and stuff on the track as I thought the FFB on the elite was pretty strong and detailed. Also the vibration you felt was probably at the wheel's lock. It's supposed to vibrate when you get to full lock both ways. Every fanatec wheel I've owned has done this along with the CSW.

As for comparing the two, I like the CSW better. I bought the elite used from a member on here after the CSW kept getting delayed to hold me over. With the plastic rim on the elite it is kinda cheap feeling but it also has some what of an advantage because it's light so to me you could feel the track really good. I had to change around some of the ffb settings on the CSW to get the ffb as strong because of the bmw rim being so much heavier than the plastic elite rim. I really just use the formula rim on road stuff though because all the road stuff I run use a formula rim like the F1, HPD, Mclaren and I'll use the bmw rim for cars like the riley if I happen to mess around with it but I mainly use it for oval. I only race on pc so having the xbox compatibility on the elite was never an issue for me.

After owning both I would still recommend the CSW. It's even smoother than the elite was and like I was telling Kamui the CSW will only get better with firmware updates, more rims and I'm sure internal upgrades in the future. The elite is already at the end of it's line so to speak with just the formula rim coming out and that's it beside some firmware updates here and there.


I was thinking the same thing. I really miss that car and I heard that it has gotten a lot more fun to drive. So, I really wanted to drive the HPD again lol. This being said, after I run some races in the two series I have mentioned before, I will definitely be trying the DP or McLaren (Depending on if I have time for to make a set) in the Grand Am series as well. The long races are really attractive to me.

Yeah I drove the HPD for a couple season straight but took a little break from it. It's still my main road car on iracing. Just wish all the fixed setups weren't low df trim now. It's taking some adjusting to because when I was running it all the time before the fixed sets were either in medium or high df trim.

I was comparing the gt and grand am schedules earlier and I think I'm going to run the mclaren in grand am instead of gt challenge. The grand am schedule has more of my favorite tracks on it and a couple I haven't raced on so I think for me it will be more fun. I didn't want to do grand am before because I thought all the races were 80 mins, but it's just daytona and watkins glen and the rest are 50 mins.
 
My Elite was fine with no problems. That's strange you couldn't feel bumps and stuff on the track as I thought the FFB on the elite was pretty strong and detailed. Also the vibration you felt was probably at the wheel's lock. It's supposed to vibrate when you get to full lock both ways. Every fanatec wheel I've owned has done this along with the CSW.

As for comparing the two, I like the CSW better. I bought the elite used from a member on here after the CSW kept getting delayed to hold me over. With the plastic rim on the elite it is kinda cheap feeling but it also has some what of an advantage because it's light so to me you could feel the track really good. I had to change around some of the ffb settings on the CSW to get the ffb as strong because of the bmw rim being so much heavier than the plastic elite rim. I really just use the formula rim on road stuff though because all the road stuff I run use a formula rim like the F1, HPD, Mclaren and I'll use the bmw rim for cars like the riley if I happen to mess around with it but I mainly use it for oval. I only race on pc so having the xbox compatibility on the elite was never an issue for me.

After owning both I would still recommend the CSW. It's even smoother than the elite was and like I was telling Kamui the CSW will only get better with firmware updates, more rims and I'm sure internal upgrades in the future. The elite is already at the end of it's line so to speak with just the formula rim coming out and that's it beside some firmware updates here and there.

Cheers, I think between the rim on the Elite and the bumps stop vibration I just couldn't get to liking it. With the CSW I continue to hear good things about that wheel. I make a decision on it probably by next fall. Thanks Mad.
 

Latest Posts

Back