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A random question: If the leader spins on a rolling start formation lap, does he get to keep his grid spot and what people around him should do? I spectated a Caddy race and saw the leader spin for the first time ever and realized I have no idea what to do were it happen to/around me, forum search and sporting code didn't provide any answers. My guess is that everyone else should keep going, but the spun leader will have to catch up?

If it is like real life, he should have to start at the back. I haven't got the slightest clue as to how iRacing handles it.
 
Good question. My guess is everyone who is ahead of him at the start line gets black flagged. Not how it should work, but from what I have seen its seems that how the game would react.
 
My guess is also that it would black flag people. So if the leader spins early, I guess I'd keep going and hope the leader catches up in time.
 
I think it's only prior to when the green flag flies that you have to stay behind the car in front. Once it's green you can overtake whoever you want, including the pole sitter, even if it's before the start line. That's why generally, if I'm on pole, I'll go slightly before the green to avoid getting mugged by some yeehaa.

If the leader spins on the pace lap and doesn't get back to the front before the green flag, I think the P3 car would get a black flag but everyone else would be ok.
 
I just ran my first Iracing race last night at Lime Rock. Everything went ok but at one point we were three wide in turn one and it got a little hairy. But during the race I was noticing I was loosing ground all race. Maybe I was just trying to hard to be cautios. But when I seen the race results there were only 2 rookies the rest was C Class and D Class...is this normal??..Did we still have the same "fixed" car??...
 
I just ran my first Iracing race last night at Lime Rock. Everything went ok but at one point we were three wide in turn one and it got a little hairy. But during the race I was noticing I was loosing ground all race. Maybe I was just trying to hard to be cautios. But when I seen the race results there were only 2 rookies the rest was C Class and D Class...is this normal??..Did we still have the same "fixed" car??...
Yes, Iracing pairs people up on their Irating not license level, just because they are C or D class doesnt mean they are a better driver by any means, but since your a rookie you cant see your irating till your a D Class. Yes if its a fixed series everyone has that setup regardless of license level.
 
Thanks come to think of it I did notice there rating (I cant remember which one) was close to mine. And after I installed the update my car did feel a little funny...very slick

EDIT= Just ran my second race and it might be my nerves but it seems the tires got slippery on the half way point....
 
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Thanks come to think of it I did notice there rating (I cant remember which one) was close to mine. And after I installed the update my car did feel a little funny...very slick

EDIT= Just ran my second race and it might be my nerves but it seems the tires got slippery on the half way point....

Maybe you was over driving the car. If you're talking about the MX-5 I would say keep it relaxed. It's got a light rear end so a little throttle through a few corners will keep it from sliding around.
 
Also with the newest build if you push the tires, they will overheat and you will be slow.

I noticed that from racing the Spa 2.4 hours twice. Seemed like if I pushed to the maximum the first few laps, the tires would then drop off .5 second for 10 laps or so, then drop off to a further 1-1.5 second range after than until the end of the stint. If I dropped my pace off about .3 second for the entire stint, I seemed to maintain the same pace until about a lap or two before the end of the stint. So, I'd say to back off a bit at the beginning of the stint, just to save tires!
 
I can't remember if I had said this already but it's worth saying again.
If you haven't tried the L49 since the update, you should definitely give it a go. It still has similar characteristics but it's easier to manage and it's a ton of fun and refreshing with an H-pattern.
 
So, playing around with the RWD RUF last night with the baseline setup and an H pattern setup, I've decided that car is a load of crap. Understeers like a pig and then the rear steps out the millisecond you put any throttle application in. Absolutely insane car. But, it is so much fun because of how bad it is.
 
Quick Noob question. Im running in the Rookie class with my Miata and was noticing in the Options page there is a "blip throttle" assist. Is this something that would improve my race times??...Right now I have gotten in a habit of downshifting without the clutch or bliping the throttle. I havent had an incident yet but maybe in the faster cars I might rip out my transmission using this practice??
 
Quick Noob question. Im running in the Rookie class with my Miata and was noticing in the Options page there is a "blip throttle" assist. Is this something that would improve my race times??...Right now I have gotten in a habit of downshifting without the clutch or bliping the throttle. I havent had an incident yet but maybe in the faster cars I might rip out my transmission using this practice??
What you are doing is fine ( You can't hurt the car ). Blip is just a simulated "heel toe" downshift blip to match up the engine speed so the car stays stable when down shifting.
I use it when I'm not using my clutch.
 
Just got a win in the DP at Mosport :)

WSCS is fun when there's people that actually drive like there's other cars on the track lol
 
Quick Noob question. Im running in the Rookie class with my Miata and was noticing in the Options page there is a "blip throttle" assist. Is this something that would improve my race times??...Right now I have gotten in a habit of downshifting without the clutch or bliping the throttle. I havent had an incident yet but maybe in the faster cars I might rip out my transmission using this practice??
Do not use auto blip. It upsets the car more than downshifting w/o bliping IMO. If anything, learn to blip throttle on your own while braking (left foot) and downshifting. In a lot of faster cars this is the only way to shift anyway.
 
Do not use auto blip. It upsets the car more than downshifting w/o bliping IMO. If anything, learn to blip throttle on your own while braking (left foot) and downshifting. In a lot of faster cars this is the only way to shift anyway.

That's a good point. I've always used auto blip in the past with iracing (currently waiting for DK2 support before I resup), but I accidentally discovered I was faster without auto-blip in Assetto Corsa. I'll have to just disable auto-blip in iracing too.
 
It upsets the car more than downshifting w/o bliping IMO.
i dunno about this season, and i dont think that could have changed anyway, but that definitely was not the case before. If you run auto blip and then try shifting without blipping - good luck.
 
No its just a hair slower shifts but gives more consistent shifts, so it's great for just starting out, it never upset the car for me, but I slowly eased myself off of it and started to have more fun. It's best for use on cars with an H-pattern like the Mazda and mustang, especially if you have a DFGT.
 
Wow, GT3 at Road America is awesome! Probably my new favourite combo, it's just so much fun to hotlap.

On a related note, I hate the Ruf interior, but LOVE how it drives. It has great turn-in, and you can really control a slide.
 
I took some time off from iracing and started getting back into it and noticed something strange. Has the way SR works changed? I seen that if I sign up to a race in a lower class than my license is for its not showing the green or yellow arrows letting you know if you are above or below the class of that race. It almost looked like I couldn't gain SR unless I'm in a class race that my license is for. Is this right or am I crazy ?
 
I took some time off from iracing and started getting back into it and noticed something strange. Has the way SR works changed? I seen that if I sign up to a race in a lower class than my license is for its not showing the green or yellow arrows letting you know if you are above or below the class of that race. It almost looked like I couldn't gain SR unless I'm in a class race that my license is for. Is this right or am I crazy ?
You gain/lose SR in every series still although in lower classes i think the loss is bigger. Like a 5x in a D Class race means more SR is taken off than if it were in a A class race and im an A License. This might be wrong but thats how ive noticed it.

Also I finnaly contacted Fanatec support about my stupid throttle problem, after awhile 100% thorttle turns to about 90% and to get the next 10 you have to push really hard on the pedal. I switched sensors and cleaned everything so hopefully they will send me a new PCB board or something.
 
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You gain/lose SR in every series still although in lower classes i think the loss is bigger. Like a 5x in a D Class race means more SR is taken off than if it were in a A class race and im an A License. This might be wrong but thats how ive noticed it.

Also I finnaly contacted Fanatec support about my stupid throttle problem, after awhile 100% thorttle turns to about 90% and to get the next 10 you have to push really hard on the pedal. I switched sensors and cleaned everything so hopefully they will send me a new PCB board or something.

Both of my Clubsport Pedals are like this.
 
Also I finnaly contacted Fanatec support about my stupid throttle problem, after awhile 100% thorttle turns to about 90% and to get the next 10 you have to push really hard on the pedal. I switched sensors and cleaned everything so hopefully they will send me a new PCB board or something.

I suspect that your issue is physical hardware, so either the spring is snagging somehow as you press it or perhaps the foam inside the end stop having got dislodged?

I have a very early CSPv1, briefly had the same problem. I found that screwing the screw below the spring up to near the top changed how the pedal throw interacted with the spring and since then I never had the issue.
 
Silver_sylph you could just calibrate it to 90% and then you would have full throttle.
I tried that but it still acted the same.

I suspect that your issue is physical hardware, so either the spring is snagging somehow as you press it or perhaps the foam inside the end stop having got dislodged?

I have a very early CSPv1, briefly had the same problem. I found that screwing the screw below the spring up to near the top changed how the pedal throw interacted with the spring and since then I never had the issue.
That doesnt explain why after unplugging and plugging it back in it fixes itself only to act up again. I've always kept it nice and lubed up and the magnet screw is tight.
 
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